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12v or 24 v that is the question

psolver

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I have a 1997 bumper pool trailer it’s like 16 feet long. The battery charger went out killed my lead acid batteries now I’m going to listen I’m looking at a multi +2 for a charger inverter trying to decide on whether to use. 12 V 24v The coach has several 12 V appliances that I can’t replace for 12 old system doesn’t use a lot of power with everything on in the heater running maybe I pull 10 A I just ordered 212 V batteries so that I can run them either in series or parallel depending on which inverter. Eventually I plan on replacing the AC unit with a more efficient unit and possibly running off inverter
 
Conventional wisdom is under 1,000W peak load is 12V territory.
 
I have a 1997 bumper pool trailer it’s like 16 feet long. The battery charger went out killed my lead acid batteries now I’m going to listen I’m looking at a multi +2 for a charger inverter trying to decide on whether to use. 12 V 24v The coach has several 12 V appliances that I can’t replace for 12 old system doesn’t use a lot of power with everything on in the heater running maybe I pull 10 A I just ordered 212 V batteries so that I can run them either in series or parallel depending on which inverter.

Instead of 2 12V batteries in series, you should have a 24V battery. As for 12V items, use a buck converter. I turn mine on in my camper in the spring and never turn it off. It doesn't draw many watts idling.


Eventually I plan on replacing the AC unit with a more efficient unit and possibly running off inverter
24V
 
I have a 1997 bumper pool trailer it’s like 16 feet long. The battery charger went out killed my lead acid batteries now I’m going to listen I’m looking at a multi +2 for a charger inverter trying to decide on whether to use. 12 V 24v The coach has several 12 V appliances that I can’t replace for 12 old system doesn’t use a lot of power with everything on in the heater running maybe I pull 10 A I just ordered 212 V batteries so that I can run them either in series or parallel depending on which inverter. Eventually I plan on replacing the AC unit with a more efficient unit and possibly running off inverter

Sorry, but reading all that gave me a brain cramp. Several things don't make sense.

What the heck is a "bumper pool trailer"? Do you have a jacuzzi on a trailer?

"212 V batteries"?

"The coach has several 12 V appliances that I can’t replace for 12 old system" WHAT?

Zero punctuation doesn't help understanding that gibberish.
 
With tons of 12v native stuff and not a large load under 2000 watts I'd stay 12volt and do parallel. The old house was 24 volt and I ended up with so many 12volt items on it I wished I'd of stayed 12 volt. 24 volt required a special charger to charge the battery bank when the sun wasn't up and those are not cheap compared to common 12v chargers. Also with you being on the road they are easy to get if you need a replacement. Charging from the alternator is a no biggy obviously.

I had a 24v to 12v step down and it worked fine but it had a limit on amps it could handle. As I added more 12 volt items I worried I would end up having to get a larger one at some point, etc.

Last but no least you can get some nice 12 volt inverters at a lower price than the 24v models from my experience. Now that said this was from years back and I'm guessing that is how things still are price point wise.

I have one 3000 watt inverter in one of my trucks that is 12 volt and I use it to run saws and such off of it no problem.
 
Mine works perfectly fine at 12 volts. 600w solar, 2000w inverter.
Need a monster battery and solar to run the A/C for any significant time. Otherwise may as well just run the generator.

All this stuff is complicated enough without the step up charging and step down to run existing.
 
Instead of 2 12V batteries in series, you should have a 24V battery. As for 12V items, use a buck converter. I turn mine on in my camper in the spring and never turn it off. It doesn't draw many watts idling.



24V
Guess I should pay more attention and actually proofread what I dictate
 
To run a mobile air conditioner in a typical van or trailer, it takes ~ 1 kW average.

So roughly the capacity of 1 each, 12 volt x 100 amp LiFe battery for each hour of operation.

It is definitely feasible and have done it - but just from a budgeting perspective that is what it looks like.

I am a big 24 volt fan (and 48 volt ) but going down this path means that you are going to "do what it takes" to swap as many things over to 24 volt as possible. .
 
26 year old bumper pull trailer.... unless it is one of them airstreams
the new electrical system could be worth more than the trailer.

determine how long you will keep the trailer ... invest $$$ only if re-fitting for long term use
your camping style will dictate what electrical you need ...
a) only camp with 120v shorepower ........ stay with current setup
b) weekend away off grid .... .......... stay with same setup but get a larger battery
c) always boondocking several days at a time ................ battery + inverter + solar


Stay with 12v and concentrate on the battery first
inverter size will be dependent on battery and charging capabilities
fridge can be the biggest problem ... if you have a propane fridge KEEP IT the 12v fridges are power hogs
 
"Eventually I plan on replacing the AC unit with a more efficient unit and possibly running off inverter"

If he's putting in a more efficient unit then it won't require as many amps. I run my OEM Mach 15 rooftop air conditioner off of my 12 volt 2400 watt inverter without any problems. psolver's trailer is small and the current air conditioner likely pulls even fewer amps than mine does.
 
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