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240V V2L from North American Ioniq 5

If I replace 120V V2L ICCU of my USA IONIQ5 to an ICCU for South Korea IONIQ5, will I get 240V V2L?
Thanks and Happy Father's Day
 
If I replace 120V V2L ICCU of my USA IONIQ5 to an ICCU for South Korea IONIQ5, will I get 240V V2L?
Thanks and Happy Father's Day
That would be interesting to see... Is there evidence or documentation that shows that hardware is different in vehicles in EU/Japan and US market? Is it only configuration? Maybe one day the dealer (or a cleaver guy with an ODBII dongle) can do something about it...

I have the exact same use case as the initial request, since my water and sewage pumps require about 3kW and 240V to run.

With the EU power available in NA, no need for a Quazar or dcbel for occasional outages. It would just fit perfectly like a gas generator...

Thanks!
 
This is what I'm doing too -- going to use a Victron Multiplus-II 2 x 120V... which includes a 50A 240V transfer switch.

Hey Winnie. Just wanted to pop in here and let you know the Multiplus works great with solar and with using the EV6 as a viable 120V source, provided the proper current limit is set.

HOWEVER, it does NOT work with the ESS assistant if you have that configured in your Multiplus system. The Multiplus is unstable and drops the input. I haven't confirmed the cause, but I believe it's due to the Loss of Mains (LOM) detection feature. There's a chance it would work with LOM disabled or on Type B, but I haven't gotten that far yet.

If you're not going to be using the ESS assistant (which is phenomenal for solar, BTW), then this comment is irrelevant to you, but just wanted to put that out there for ya.

Cheers
 
if the car has an onboard inverter, couldnt you just use a chargeverter hooked in between the vehicle and the battery busbar?
 
If I replace 120V V2L ICCU of my USA IONIQ5 to an ICCU for South Korea IONIQ5, will I get 240V V2L?
Thanks and Happy Father's Day

With the EU power available in NA, no need for a Quazar or dcbel for occasional outages. It would just fit perfectly like a gas generator...

Have you tried asking this question on IoniqForum?

HOWEVER, it does NOT work with the ESS assistant if you have that configured in your Multiplus system.
I don't think one should connect a V2L in a config where inverter thinks it is connected to grid. Since it is possible the inverter will attempt to export before it detects invalid grid.

Yes the Chargeverter config is something I have been interested in to guard against this. In my particular case I would combine it with microinverter AC coupling and that will definitely not be compatible with syncing in AC power from V2L
 
Hey Winnie. Just wanted to pop in here and let you know the Multiplus works great with solar and with using the EV6 as a viable 120V source, provided the proper current limit is set.
@drlanford,
Are you just connecting the V2L to the AC input on Multiplus and limiting to 15a
draw? Never thought about the power assist for larger loads until it was stated above.
 
@drlanford,
Are you just connecting the V2L to the AC input on Multiplus and limiting to 15a
draw? Never thought about the power assist for larger loads until it was stated above.
I just got this up and running yesterday. Was able to export about 32A at just under 52V. When I bumped the Chargeverter up to 34A, the car tripped off the output. At some point I’m going to try to parallel the two 120V outputs to see if I can get over 3k. I’ll likely test just loading the exterior V2L output with the Chargeverter and then load the interior V2L with another load to see if I can get a combined output over the rated 1800w. I’m not convinced those two outputs aren’t the same output.
 
At some point I’m going to try to parallel the two 120V outputs to see if I can get over 3k.
You can do this yourself but trustworthy folks on Ioniq5 forum say it's on the same 1800W inverter in the car, only (maybe) separately fused. Many people before you have smoked on this hopium
 
I just got this up and running yesterday. Was able to export about 32A at just under 52V. When I bumped the Chargeverter up to 34A, the car tripped off the output. At some point I’m going to try to parallel the two 120V outputs to see if I can get over 3k. I’ll likely test just loading the exterior V2L output with the Chargeverter and then load the interior V2L with another load to see if I can get a combined output over the rated 1800w. I’m not convinced those two outputs aren’t the same output.
So you didn’t use V2L to the AC Input of Victron, only V2L to chargeverter to batteries?
 
You can probably presume the V2L to work, if it is PSW. The ioniq forum folks with this EV have scopes, they might have measured it.

If the Victron rejects this AC you can fall back to DC coupling, it's not a huge difference in system cost or complexity, though a 10% efficiency drop. It's an emergency solution, interim even before better V2H so I personally temper my expectations.
 
I used to have an I5 until it was totalled.

The power of the two outlets are shared.

You can use the Korean plug to get power from the charge port. It uses the onboard inverter, so you get the right power for your country. The plug has the circuits to tell the inverter to discharge, not charge. I forgot if you can get 120v, or if it only gives 240v (level 2 charger).
 
We have an I5 and I'm bummed that it only puts out 120v. However, we also have a Lightning ER and for the past two weeks I have been using it's 7.2 kw Pro Power option to power a 50a automatic transfer switch that is connected to our subpanel. Since the lightning has a bonded neutral you have to use a 3-pole transfer switch that switches the neutral. I moved a few breakers from our main panel and intend to move some more.

I was pleasantly surprised that the Lightning is able to power our Lennox 4 ton inverter/variable AC unit and Lennox variable gas furnace (it can't power our 3 ton upstairs unit which is a conventional unit). I setup this up so I can power our house with the Lightning from 4 - 8 pm when our POCO rates skyrocket to .36 kwh. We charge the Lighting (and the Ioniq) between Midnight and 6:00 am when the POCO rate is .03 in the summer and .02 kwh in the winter. And it will be a nice setup during the rare power failure.

I am going to put an interlock on the main panel 200a breaker so I can back feed it from the subpanel and power the entire house from the Lightning.

Here is an example of a typical summer day using the AC and running two fridges and a deep freeze. From Midnight to 6:00 am I have both AC units cranked to cool both floors and the basement to 68 degrees. The Lightning started charging at 12:01 am and went from 38% SOC to 60% SOC. At 6:00 am the AC setpoints go to 80 degrees and the house stays nice and cool for hours. At 11:00 am I hooked the Lighting to the house (I was back feeding during this example so the entire house was running on the Lightning). Set the main AC unit to 74 degrees (upstairs unit off as it will trip the Lightning). Ran the house on the Lightning until 10:00 pm. POCO cost for the day was $3.97

I'm mostly doing this because I am retired and electrical projects keep me busy and my brain working. The cost savings is nice as well (I predict savings between $1,100 - 1,500 per year. Enough to pay for the Lightning if I live to be 108 :ROFLMAO:

BTW I am really surprised at the quality of this 50a automatic transfer switch. At $160 it a steal






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I used to have an I5 until it was totalled.

The power of the two outlets are shared.

You can use the Korean plug to get power from the charge port. It uses the onboard inverter, so you get the right power for your country. The plug has the circuits to tell the inverter to discharge, not charge. I forgot if you can get 120v, or if it only gives 240v (level 2 charger).

Oops, I meant to post this a few days ago but seems I lost the text.

You can only get 120V regardless of whether you use J1772 or that Korean plug. Korea is an odd duck in that they are 220V L-N single phase for domestic plugs (so hewing to European tradition) but use J1772 (so hewing North American tradition).

The Korean plug was investigated by North American Ioniq5 enthusiasts for two reasons - the J1772 ones were ridiculously overpriced for a year, and there were a lot of people that were hoping that it did some kind of magic handshake to ask for 220V and get more kW out of the on-board inverter. But there is no difference in the signaling between the North American and Korean J1772 versions of the V2L adapter.
 
I don't think one should connect a V2L in a config where inverter thinks it is connected to grid. Since it is possible the inverter will attempt to export before it detects invalid grid.

Yes the Chargeverter config is something I have been interested in to guard against this. In my particular case I would combine it with microinverter AC coupling and that will definitely not be compatible with syncing in AC power from V2L
I agree...but I did it anyway with export turned off and "grid setpoint" set to 10W. In that configuration, I've never seen it export. However, that doesn't mean it hasn't for a very short period of time like when an A/C compressor kicks off before the voltages stabilize again.

I recently checked and LOM is already set to Type B so that rules out that potential solution. I must keep LOM detection on as I am typically connected to the grid. I may look into an anti-islanding device so I don't have to reconfigure the Multiplus every time I want to use the EV6 or a small genny as a power source for the Multiplus, but those are quite expensive.
 
Are you just connecting the V2L to the AC input on Multiplus and limiting to 15a
draw? Never thought about the power assist for larger loads until it was stated above.

Yes. Without the ESS Assistant, this function works quite well. The Multiplus will draw up to 15A (or whatever you have it set to) from the input, then, if more is needed, draw additional power from the batteries (this feature is indeed called PowerAssist). When the demand drops back below 15A, the Multiplus will then charge the batteries again at a rate that still won't exceed 15A total from the AC input. So, as long as the *average* current usage is below 15A and the extra demand is below the Multiplus inverter limit, the Multiplus can handle it. It's quite fun to watch it work flawlessly.
 
I agree...but I did it anyway with export turned off and "grid setpoint" set to 10W. In that configuration, I've never seen it export. However, that doesn't mean it hasn't for a very short period of time like when an A/C compressor kicks off before the voltages stabilize again.

I recently checked and LOM is already set to Type B so that rules out that potential solution. I must keep LOM detection on as I am typically connected to the grid. I may look into an anti-islanding device so I don't have to reconfigure the Multiplus every time I want to use the EV6 or a small genny as a power source for the Multiplus, but those are quite expensive.

Is DC charger (Chargeverter or "Chargenectifier", search for the thread) somehow not an option? If you look for the thread on the latter you can get it AliExpress to wherever China is willing to send stuff. Think of it as your tax for not buying a Quattro /s
 
240V split phase would be difficult/“impossible to code” to transmit on J1772, as it only has two power pins. These are used for either L-N or L-L. So there is no L-L-N.
 
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