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240V V2L from North American Ioniq 5

I used to have an I5 until it was totalled.

The power of the two outlets are shared.

You can use the Korean plug to get power from the charge port. It uses the onboard inverter, so you get the right power for your country. The plug has the circuits to tell the inverter to discharge, not charge. I forgot if you can get 120v, or if it only gives 240v (level 2 charger).
 
We have an I5 and I'm bummed that it only puts out 120v. However, we also have a Lightning ER and for the past two weeks I have been using it's 7.2 kw Pro Power option to power a 50a automatic transfer switch that is connected to our subpanel. Since the lightning has a bonded neutral you have to use a 3-pole transfer switch that switches the neutral. I moved a few breakers from our main panel and intend to move some more.

I was pleasantly surprised that the Lightning is able to power our Lennox 4 ton inverter/variable AC unit and Lennox variable gas furnace (it can't power our 3 ton upstairs unit which is a conventional unit). I setup this up so I can power our house with the Lightning from 4 - 8 pm when our POCO rates skyrocket to .36 kwh. We charge the Lighting (and the Ioniq) between Midnight and 6:00 am when the POCO rate is .03 in the summer and .02 kwh in the winter. And it will be a nice setup during the rare power failure.

I am going to put an interlock on the main panel 200a breaker so I can back feed it from the subpanel and power the entire house from the Lightning.

Here is an example of a typical summer day using the AC and running two fridges and a deep freeze. From Midnight to 6:00 am I have both AC units cranked to cool both floors and the basement to 68 degrees. The Lightning started charging at 12:01 am and went from 38% SOC to 60% SOC. At 6:00 am the AC setpoints go to 80 degrees and the house stays nice and cool for hours. At 11:00 am I hooked the Lighting to the house (I was back feeding during this example so the entire house was running on the Lightning). Set the main AC unit to 74 degrees (upstairs unit off as it will trip the Lightning). Ran the house on the Lightning until 10:00 pm. POCO cost for the day was $3.97

I'm mostly doing this because I am retired and electrical projects keep me busy and my brain working. The cost savings is nice as well (I predict savings between $1,100 - 1,500 per year. Enough to pay for the Lightning if I live to be 108 :ROFLMAO:

BTW I am really surprised at the quality of this 50a automatic transfer switch. At $160 it a steal






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I used to have an I5 until it was totalled.

The power of the two outlets are shared.

You can use the Korean plug to get power from the charge port. It uses the onboard inverter, so you get the right power for your country. The plug has the circuits to tell the inverter to discharge, not charge. I forgot if you can get 120v, or if it only gives 240v (level 2 charger).

Oops, I meant to post this a few days ago but seems I lost the text.

You can only get 120V regardless of whether you use J1772 or that Korean plug. Korea is an odd duck in that they are 220V L-N single phase for domestic plugs (so hewing to European tradition) but use J1772 (so hewing North American tradition).

The Korean plug was investigated by North American Ioniq5 enthusiasts for two reasons - the J1772 ones were ridiculously overpriced for a year, and there were a lot of people that were hoping that it did some kind of magic handshake to ask for 220V and get more kW out of the on-board inverter. But there is no difference in the signaling between the North American and Korean J1772 versions of the V2L adapter.
 
I don't think one should connect a V2L in a config where inverter thinks it is connected to grid. Since it is possible the inverter will attempt to export before it detects invalid grid.

Yes the Chargeverter config is something I have been interested in to guard against this. In my particular case I would combine it with microinverter AC coupling and that will definitely not be compatible with syncing in AC power from V2L
I agree...but I did it anyway with export turned off and "grid setpoint" set to 10W. In that configuration, I've never seen it export. However, that doesn't mean it hasn't for a very short period of time like when an A/C compressor kicks off before the voltages stabilize again.

I recently checked and LOM is already set to Type B so that rules out that potential solution. I must keep LOM detection on as I am typically connected to the grid. I may look into an anti-islanding device so I don't have to reconfigure the Multiplus every time I want to use the EV6 or a small genny as a power source for the Multiplus, but those are quite expensive.
 
Are you just connecting the V2L to the AC input on Multiplus and limiting to 15a
draw? Never thought about the power assist for larger loads until it was stated above.

Yes. Without the ESS Assistant, this function works quite well. The Multiplus will draw up to 15A (or whatever you have it set to) from the input, then, if more is needed, draw additional power from the batteries (this feature is indeed called PowerAssist). When the demand drops back below 15A, the Multiplus will then charge the batteries again at a rate that still won't exceed 15A total from the AC input. So, as long as the *average* current usage is below 15A and the extra demand is below the Multiplus inverter limit, the Multiplus can handle it. It's quite fun to watch it work flawlessly.
 
I agree...but I did it anyway with export turned off and "grid setpoint" set to 10W. In that configuration, I've never seen it export. However, that doesn't mean it hasn't for a very short period of time like when an A/C compressor kicks off before the voltages stabilize again.

I recently checked and LOM is already set to Type B so that rules out that potential solution. I must keep LOM detection on as I am typically connected to the grid. I may look into an anti-islanding device so I don't have to reconfigure the Multiplus every time I want to use the EV6 or a small genny as a power source for the Multiplus, but those are quite expensive.

Is DC charger (Chargeverter or "Chargenectifier", search for the thread) somehow not an option? If you look for the thread on the latter you can get it AliExpress to wherever China is willing to send stuff. Think of it as your tax for not buying a Quattro /s
 
240V split phase would be difficult/“impossible to code” to transmit on J1772, as it only has two power pins. These are used for either L-N or L-L. So there is no L-L-N.
 
Hmm, wonder how they are doing it, I noticed they didn't mention voltage (I assumed it was that volt/amp combo because of the wattage mentioned). maybe it's two independent 120V@15A plugs or something else, guess we'll have to wait to see.
 
Hmm, wonder how they are doing it, I noticed they didn't mention voltage (I assumed it was that volt/amp combo because of the wattage mentioned). maybe it's two independent 120V@15A plugs or something else, guess we'll have to wait to see.
Is that an article covering the worldwide version of the car or the North America version?

Forming 120/240 requires either a transformer or a second inverter. I was only ever hoping for some kind of signaling to request 240 from the car
 
Hmm, wonder how they are doing it, I noticed they didn't mention voltage (I assumed it was that volt/amp combo because of the wattage mentioned). maybe it's two independent 120V@15A plugs or something else, guess we'll have to wait to see.
Where are you seeing these details? (Split-phase, 240VAC).

All I found in that link you posted was this:

‘Kia’s all-electric SUV will come equipped with the technology to support vehicle-to-home (V2H), allowing future owners to use the EV9 has a backup power source during emergencies or power outages.’
 
Finally got a E-GMP car.

Now I gotta figure out how to integrate it.

I could buy a chargeverter and any off grid inverter.

Or I could buy an autotransformer and combine it with a off grid inverter that has generator boost. The autotransformer would give me 120/240 on its own, and I can use it with my 120V 3000W inverter generator. Though with the V2L it’s not clear I really want to continue bothering with fueling a generator. The other problem with the autotransformer is that it likely will require defeating the GFCI/working around L-N bond inside the car.

Wondering what people on this thread would do?

I’m leaning towards chargeverter since that can be used with any inverter without having to worry about generator assist support and without worrying about L-N bond. All AC is 120/240 of the same flavor rather than also having 120V V2L literally mixed into it.
 
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Two outlets for 3600W total?



Pass-through an inverter with grid support would count on the inverter not allowing V2L to carry too much. Motor starting surge might be an issue. But combined capability could start more. maybe if you limit current to well below V2L capability. Could be that only drawing 15A from one outlet, it will have surge headroom to 30A.

Chargeverter would eliminate surge issue. Spec is 28A at 120VAC, so long as you can dial that down to 15A. It only has to supply what your off-grid system needs on average.

Will you have a way to enable charging the car with surplus PV? "Bidirectional charging", when you plug in the adapter the charging port is occupied. But a second outlet under the seats would be available. What happens to power on that outlet when charging is enabled? You'd like to interrupt V2L AC input to your inverter and drive the charger when you have surplus.
 
Two outlets for 3600W total?

Nope it’s up to two on the same 16A OCPD. ?

230V markets get 230V*16A and there’s no way to get that in 120/240 markets.

All EGMP cars support at least one outlet with accessory. Some have one in the cabin.
Will you have a way to enable charging the car with surplus PV? "Bidirectional charging", when you plug in the adapter the charging port is occupied. But a second outlet under the seats would be available. What happens to power on that outlet when charging is enabled? You'd like to interrupt V2L AC input to your inverter and drive the charger when you have surplus.

I think it’s the OBC (ICCU? In the Hyundai terminology) reconfigured to do V2L but I’m not sure. I’ve considered doing something like hacking a V2L adapter (external port is plugged into J1772) that switches from charge to discharge modes. But frankly with NEM2 this is just a science fair experiment, and I also don’t feel like putting extra load on ICCU or the port. $$$ to replace, and ridiculously low supply for 2 years

Allegedly EV9 (also E-GMP, it’s newer than my I5) has been shown powering a V2X charger in a demo. Maybe they’ll add it along with the NACS compatibility update in 2025. That’s also when CCS V2X will allegedly be adopted. I’m not sure which V2X NACS implements, I suspect IEEE would force one into the process.
 
230V markets get 230V*16A and there’s no way to get that in 120/240 markets.
No way? I bet hyundai do his job right and the hardware between the North America 120V model is the same than the rest of the world (230V).
Is there reason it's should not be only a software difference?
 
No way? I bet hyundai do his job right and the hardware between the North America 120V model is the same than the rest of the world (230V).
Is there reason it's should not be only a software difference?

The most the adapter can do is give it another resistance to sense, andI think people tried all the obvious ones. IE there is no command protocol, it's about as dumb as J1772.

And even if it's just a software difference, good luck patching it. (It most likely is just a software difference in ICCU)

I haven't been following the forum though, maybe someone has figured it out.
 
Finally got a E-GMP car.

Now I gotta figure out how to integrate it.

What did you figure out?

I just joined after a 2 day power outage, and obtaining a HI5 a few months ago. I understand the difference between USA and EU being same voltage but single legged vs double... And being incompatible with shoving into a generator panel input directly... But having 2X the power would definitely be nice. Unfortunately I need 240VAC since that's what my well pump runs, and having the extra wattage is needed since I have 2 fridges and a chest freezer (assuming they all power on simultaneously at some points).

I read through this whole post, and have been thinking of this topic since before acquiring the vehicle. It seems like the best bet might be figuring out how to trick the car into DC charge mode, and then sinking power out instead of forcing it in, then using solar inverters (I saw something about 600V)? Since I live in NW Oregon that's dark for most of the year, and have a lot more timber available than money for solar and batteries... I've spent a lot more time researching woodgas energy generation solutions (definitely dirtier and less convenient than solar) than solar, so I'm a little disadvantaged than the other commenters here.

It was definitely annoying to have the generator running for most of the 2 days. I know it wasn't loaded near capacity for much of the time, realistically the V2L probably could have supplied all energy requirements, aside from the well pump. For the peak loading of the fridges/freezer, that would also be a problem, but I guess a small LFP battery, or some big capacitor, would be able to smooth things over during those times. It's quite upsetting that Hyundai hasn't figured this out, as I really like the car over something like the F150 (especially since I already have a reliable gas pickup truck with a little more rural capability/insurance).

To get started on sinking DC, I guess use an interposer (can these be purchased, or is DIY needed?) for the charge port and record the low voltage data signalling during a fast charging session?
 
What did you figure out?

Unfortunately I need 240VAC since that's what my well pump runs, and having the extra wattage is needed since I have 2 fridges and a chest freezer (assuming they all power on simultaneously at some points).

This car has two 5-15R, one in the cabin (on Limited trim) and one in an optional accessory that plugs into the J1772 port. In Europe and Korea the charging port (IEC and J1772, respectively, AFAIK) are ~230V L-N @ ~15A.

An approach of minimum effort could be:

Ioniq --> Chargeverter --> 48V battery (AGM or LiFePO4) --> inverter

Select an inverter or AIO that can start the well pump.
If running wattage exceeds 1800W then battery needs to support whatever run time it take to fill tank or supply the water you need.

If you also have PV, then SCC or inverter output indicating surplus power could enable EV charger.

Yeah, what we really want is good bidirectional DC from EV.
 
What did you figure out?
Been a while, so I don't even remember what I was talking about. I'll answer from first principles without reviewing the thread.

I just joined after a 2 day power outage, and obtaining a HI5 a few months ago. I understand the difference between USA and EU being same voltage but single legged vs double... And being incompatible with shoving into a generator panel input directly... But having 2X the power would definitely be nice. Unfortunately I need 240VAC since that's what my well pump runs, and having the extra wattage is needed since I have 2 fridges and a chest freezer (assuming they all power on simultaneously at some points).
You can't get 2x the power, no matter what, you have 1800W in North America, and that's it, via V2L.

You can get 120/240 with an autotransformer or isolation transformer. The choice between the two depends on worrying about failure modes and costs. However this will not get you past the 1800W limit.

I read through this whole post, and have been thinking of this topic since before acquiring the vehicle. It seems like the best bet might be figuring out how to trick the car into DC charge mode, and then sinking power out instead of forcing it in, then using solar inverters (I saw something about 600V)? Since I live in NW Oregon that's dark for most of the year, and have a lot more timber available than money for solar and batteries... I've spent a lot more time researching woodgas energy generation solutions (definitely dirtier and less convenient than solar) than solar, so I'm a little disadvantaged than the other commenters here.

Unfortunately the E-GMP platform is an 800V car, which means you can't use a standard US solar inverter for residential use. You'll have to import one, which isn't really a big deal as 800V is not uncommon of a system voltage around the world.

Also, there are some code implications. 1- and 2-unit residential is limited to 600V (so it's doubly a code violation -- DIY tapping of an EV is restricted by the latest NPFA fire code, and the 600V limit was in place for a long time).

You can maybe sniff around DCBel to see what they did (though, it's an expensive system, and I'm not sure it's appropriate to ask them pre-sales support about how they handle 800V cars if you don't intend to buy it).

It was definitely annoying to have the generator running for most of the 2 days. I know it wasn't loaded near capacity for much of the time, realistically the V2L probably could have supplied all energy requirements, aside from the well pump. For the peak loading of the fridges/freezer, that would also be a problem, but I guess a small LFP battery, or some big capacitor, would be able to smooth things over during those times. It's quite upsetting that Hyundai hasn't figured this out, as I really like the car over something like the F150 (especially since I already have a reliable gas pickup truck with a little more rural capability/insurance).

Hyundai/KIA group has made a lot of noise about V2X for the EV9 and presumably Ioniq9. I believe they have an inverter / V2X EVSE partner (Can't remember the name)

To get started on sinking DC, I guess use an interposer (can these be purchased, or is DIY needed?) for the charge port and record the low voltage data signalling during a fast charging session?
Unfortunately CCS isn't that easy (what you're thinking of is doable in Chademo and possibly also the Chademo successor that some corners of Japan and China are doing, but that's irrelevant trivia for the Ioniq5)

The DC signaling is on the high voltage conductors. CCS uses PLC signaling on those lines. There is another thread here from a while back, where someone pointed at a dev board that does what you want.

There is also another thread from a person in SEA or Europe, that has a startup making a box that will trick cars into exposing their DC ports. There I think also is a github project, including documentation on the quirks of various vehicles if you bamboozle them.

I don't keep a bibliography unfortunately of these threads or githubs, since I'll never be interested in doing this project. Probably.

And while I vaguely sling around threads, you might wander over to a EV hacking focused forum. This one has a few EV hackers, so it's better than other ones you could have wandered into, but still not ideal.

My current personal plan is very boring. Buy a listed $$$ EG4 system like 18kpv or 12kpv. Get that permitted fully to the $$$ standards that I need for my California POCO. Then add a 120V -> 48V charger onto the DC bus (Chargeverter or Telecom rectifier or Meanwell). This is basically the charging inlet from my Ioniq5 V2L. It will be limited to 1800W, but the buffer battery will be able to surge much higher.

The cheapest instantiation of this would be a 5kWh wall battery and one of those $1500-2000 120/240 inverters. 6000XP, SRNE, Growatt, etc.
 
Oh, another thing I’ve learned (and haven’t asked about on forums or measured) is that I heard weird “harmonics” (clicking) when I hooked up a resistive tea kettle to my V2L in a quiet location. So it’s possible that there are some loads that will disagree with the inverter, whether by not liking the waveforms the inverter puts out, or pulling a current waveform that the inverter can’t supply.

Using the V2L to AC-DC replenish a fixed battery should be well behaved, assuming you use a PFC (power factor corrected) charger

And note that Ioniq5 will burn something like 200W+ while the V2L is active
 
An approach of minimum effort could be:

Ioniq --> Chargeverter --> 48V battery (AGM or LiFePO4) --> inverter

Select an inverter or AIO that can start the well pump.
If running wattage exceeds 1800W then battery needs to support whatever run time it take to fill tank or supply the water you need.

If you also have PV, then SCC or inverter output indicating surplus power could enable EV charger.

Yeah, what we really want is good bidirectional DC from EV.
I just completed a build doing exactly this. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/m...-150-kwh-storage-from-evs.98432/#post-1331195
 

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