diy solar

diy solar

Load Shifting in North America (specifically Canada)

I have reached out to the ESA and spoke with the local inspector about variances or deviances from code. I will send in my plans and see if it's something that can be approved....

not holding my breath.
To make it work I need a ULc listed BMS, and to find cells that are UL compliant. If I can do that, I'll submit the plan.

Alt. would be to setup the system with a small server rack style battery, and then see what the future holds for DIY battery packs.....
 
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I have reached out to the ESA and spoke with the local inspector about variances or deviances from code. I will send in my plans and see if it's something that can be approved....

not holding my breath.
To make it work I need a ULc listed BMS, and to find cells that are UL compliant. If I can do that, I'll submit the plan.

Alt. would be to setup the system with a small server rack style battery, and then see what the future holds for DIY battery packs.....
Do batteries need inspection and permit?
Ie if you permit with just the inverter as grid tie only, and you add a battery later, do you need another permit?
 
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Do batteries need inspection and permit?
Ie if you permit with just the inverter as grid tie only, and you add a battery later, do you need another permit?
If the plumbing in your house has passed inspection, why do you need a Permit to install a waterheater?
 
Even my Growatt SPF5000's have a setting for when to allow charging from AC input. If i HAD a grid connection i could easily do this 'TOU' thing natively with my low dollar inverters, so i suspect you don't really need to go all the way up to 15k or 18k levels of money to get that functionality. Plus, with the ac input on the inverters it always starts as an open circuit so you don't really need a fancy switching device for it. I could get a din-rail timer switch, a contactor, and a small enclosure for it for about $40-50 total that would make a nice little setup for making/breaking the AC input connection.

As far as code compliance i know nothing about your locale but it does seem that most places have a fairly simple process for adding a 'generator input' to your house, at which point what you actually plug into it i do not think needs to be inspected. Your inverter/battery setup could ostensibly be treated as 'a generator'. Might be something to look into, or might be totally off base.
 
Even my Growatt SPF5000's have a setting for when to allow charging from AC input. If i HAD a grid connection i could easily do this 'TOU' thing natively with my low dollar inverters, so i suspect you don't really need to go all the way up to 15k or 18k levels of money to get that functionality. Plus, with the ac input on the inverters it always starts as an open circuit so you don't really need a fancy switching device for it. I could get a din-rail timer switch, a contactor, and a smallcon enclosure for it for about $40-50 total that would make a nice little setup for making/breaking the AC input connection.

As far as code compliance i know nothing about your locale but it does seem that most places have a fairly simple process for adding a 'generator input' to your house, at which point what you actually plug into it i do not think needs to be inspected. Your inverter/battery setup could ostensibly be treated as 'a generator'. Might be something to look into, or might be totally off base.
considered "mobile" - would be one way around it. put some wheels,..
 
not holding my breath.
To make it work I need a ULc listed BMS, and to find cells that are UL compliant. If I can do that, I'll submit the plan.
I am skeptical. I thought Canada also drank the UL9540 koolaid and that requires a paired battery/inverter combination.

Unless you find a BMS that confers UL9540 DC ESS on the batteries you stack it onto. But then how would you do the destructive module level testing at home that is required for 9540?
 
Here is one:


Looks like nobody has talked about the LG combo yet. It's new.

There's some $900 24" (european/asian) models too. I have one on backorder that I'm thinking of switching to LG combo.
 
I've searched the forum but can't seem to find it.... interested in a new heat pump dryer recommendation.

?link? Thx
Miele for stand alone.

I would consider a combo washer and dryer in one. Saves space. Don't have to move clothes to dryer. Solves mold problem of frontload washers.
 
I think batteries like server rack or PowerPro cost about $0.05/kWh amortized over their cycle life, 16 years for one cycle per year.
What does a zero-export inverter cost? $0.025/kWh?
Combined, about 1/3 of the spread on power peak/off-peak. So break-even at about 5.5 years, savings after that.

I'd say forget energy efficient appliances, and let the grid handle surges. You just need an inverter or Powerwall with CT to avoid export. So long as your utility allows such a grid-interactive inverter, and the second or so export while it responds to load changes is OK.

I'd think Tesla Powerwall could do it (what cost per kWh?) so long as it can be configured to allow charging from grid. or SolArk, or hopefully any of the inexpensive ones. EG4 18kpv with PowerPro cold be an option.

Miele, I liked their washer, had one new and one used, but both suddenly stopped operating. I'm back to a top loader.
Simplicity/reliability has an efficiency all its own.
 
Examples:
HeatPump Hot Water information: https://www.advancedwaterheatinginitiative.org/resources
Rheem Heat Pump Water Heater (120VAC).

HeatPump Washer & Dryer article:
 
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