diy solar

diy solar

360V DC input split phase 120V/240V AC inverter

very interesting indeed thank you. The GWxxxxA-BP checks a lot of boxes: grid-tie capable, high voltage DC (~450vdc), USA split-phase AC, AC-coupling with frequency-shifting, waiting for price and delivery quote.
Please let us know what you find out!
 
I am sure there is a max limit somewhere in the Bolt's system, do you think pulling 5-7kw a possibility ?
Yeap, it's just over 10kW as you can see the 30A fuse of the junction box here:
 
First time I had to use my solar setup during an outage few days ago. 5 days without electricity after a tree drop on our line.
Everything worked fine. My small 3 kWh battery (24V) build from Ford Fusion energy cells have energized some appliances via my 2.4kW (240V) and 1.5 kW(120V) Easun inverters. The pellet stove was a must at those freezing temperatures :oops:
The small battery lasted around 12 hours, so two times a day I connected our 360V electric van to the house for 1 hour or a bit more. That was enough to fill the small battery.
When connected to our electric van, the 2.4 kW inverter act like if 3000W of solar was connect to it. It's his peak solar rating.
Sadly this 3kW was manually monitored at 2kW. Well, not so bad for a 400$ CAD inverter ?

So, our set up was tested and the conclusion is clear: I will upgrade the 1.5kW cheap 120v inverter for something a bit more powerful.
Really sad there is no 2.4 to 3.5 kW 120Vac inverter with 450Vdc input on market. There is tons of those inverter with 230V output, but not a single with 120V output ?
 

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Here are the plugs of the ''extension cord'' between 360V EV battery and the house inverter.
It's a bit sketch on the house side with the SB50 connector(grey). It is rated 600V, but water and small fingers can go directly on terminals. I plan to add adessive shrink tube of the good size to limit intrusion.
On the EV side, it's the nice and seal connector of the Chevrolet Bolt AC compressor (orange).
 

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I took the plunge! This inverter will be at our home in few days. It is supposed to be able to take 360Vdc as input to allow me to connect it to my electric van.


View attachment 87068
I am guessing that the solar charging mode is what limiting the max PVDC draw to 3000w, not limited by the Bolt's electronics. Do you see the 3000w "solar" charging decreases as your loads+24vdc battery get full ?
 
I am guessing that the solar charging mode is what limiting the max PVDC draw to 3000w, not limited by the Bolt's electronics. Do you see the 3000w "solar" charging decreases as your loads+24vdc battery get full ?
Exactly and exactly!
CV charge, floating and equalization are all set at 28.8V (so 4.11V / cell) and the 3000W start to slowly drop around 28V.
 
Exactly and exactly!
CV charge, floating and equalization are all set at 28.8V (so 4.11V / cell) and the 3000W start to slowly drop around 28V.
good to know, thank you so much. I was concerned that the MPPT circuit would pull too high current. Still, I would install a 10-15A DC double-pole breaker in series to appease my paranoid tendency. Does the Bolt's BMS behaving as expected ? though I guess the only indication would be the apparent drop in capacity gauge (roughly 3kwh/bar); oh but your VanaBolt may not have the full screen display.
 
Here are the plugs of the ''extension cord'' between 360V EV battery and the house inverter.
It's a bit sketch on the house side with the SB50 connector(grey). It is rated 600V, but water and small fingers can go directly on terminals. I plan to add adessive shrink tube of the good size to limit intrusion.
On the EV side, it's the nice and seal connector of the Chevrolet Bolt AC compressor (orange).
Where did you get the orange connector?
 
Still, I would install a 10-15A DC double-pole breaker in series to appease my paranoid tendency.
It's why there is breaker in my set up. It's also with those breakers I choose between solar or Vanabolt to supply the house.
Breakers.JPG

Does the Bolt's BMS behaving as expected ? though I guess the only indication would be the apparent drop in capacity gauge (roughly 3kwh/bar); oh but your VanaBolt may not have the full screen display.
? I have both display.
As you can see the average consumption of 116 kWh/100 km (or 18 MPGe if you prefer) happen during I charge the house.
It's really high and I have seen over 250 kWh/100 km during outage, but it's quite normal as the energy is used and the van don't move.
20221231_121434.jpg
 
It's why there is breaker in my set up. It's also with those breakers I choose between solar or Vanabolt to supply the house.
very nice, looks like those breakers are configured as A/B switch, one trick to use is to flip one set upside-down and tie all 4-pole-handle together; so that only one set is ON at any instance; then you'll never have to think/worry (I can be an idiot at time)

I've been using my Bolt to charge my house-pack via the 12v aux battery, but can only draw ~800-watt or so. The Bolt system has a 90-minute auto shutdown, does your configuration also shutoff after 90-min ? there's a way to keep the system on in the Chevy Volt, but haven't found it for the Chevy-Bolt
 
very nice, looks like those breakers are configured as A/B switch, one trick to use is to flip one set upside-down and tie all 4-pole-handle together; so that only one set is ON at any instance; then you'll never have to think/worry (I can be an idiot at time)

Is that on the AC side? That scheme should let you use quality breakers.
If a breaker trips, does it stop in the middle with neither on?
If handle is restrained so it can't move, does mechanism inside still disconnect with overload?

Midnight does that with interlock on panel cover, allowing each handle some motion.


I got something like the following, but it was buzzing below it's (supposed) rating, so I got nervous, didn't trust the quality, and replaced with more expensive interlocked QO breakers. This one can have both off, or one on, or the other.


The part number of other amperage breakers also contain "63" so I wondered if the one I bought was actually for lower current.

 
The Bolt system has a 90-minute auto shutdown, does your configuration also shutoff after 90-min ? there's a way to keep the system on in the Chevy Volt, but haven't found it for the Chevy-Bolt
Haaaaa! It took time and I did a lot of tests before finally find the solution ?
So, to have the Chevrolet Bolt set in ''inverter mode'' (don't shut off by itself after 1-2 hours) you have to: Turn the car on, apply the parking brake, shift into neutral, and exit via the passenger door.

With my Vanabolt I don't have to exit via passenger door as the car system don't ''see'' his doors ?
 
I got something like the following, but it was buzzing below it's (supposed) rating, so I got nervous, didn't trust the quality, and replaced with more expensive interlocked QO breakers. This one can have both off, or one on, or the other.
Seem exactly what I would need. Shame I don't know that exist before.
Thanks
Dual breaker.JPG
 
Is that on the AC side? That scheme should let you use quality breakers.
If a breaker trips, does it stop in the middle with neither on?
If handle is restrained so it can't move, does mechanism inside still disconnect with overload?
didn't actually use these breakers specifically. I did implement the A/B concept by flipping one versus the other a few years back. Used two of these toggle between my dryer/EVSE charging. I tied the two with old credit-card cut-off:
JmywYrDq-DBl7ftJNEdnjh64P0zJn_puRgw1UT_hXhg6dUiMvz2MCHTE18zd25pAsV-dWKKwWm35G7VoxbDwVCPe47oiCwG3QXrahFPe03hcYq8rmvkvj51bJ56xD9mlmglkXKpcAx10QrwPy5ND7499gVU68SDsnSFFMd7BhH3HXiBymsdrvY1rHIXCReTOA7r8mnnN3-ltr2Vy_j0hLB2v_SfE924rSNeYzmO8rg2Wj2BUYsjeaxKjiG-pMRno6xnVOYZp9zq8AB-v3T6EBrOaSuYtPpu1U3sN2xSJfM4OnBaaFVbNOIn8E0bYPpMtIKUQLBm4opJQHNeGbi8xBhZgyGi4VEMUFkUg4KrGNLXsRIUA3VgTMmGBHKr6lf1m9z7XfIDee856ng363TLEFu1-P4sfi07qnZzlAUeLAggdCw4zbgZR_8PHcUi4j9dwmCswLgbEB1R2k8hpFbh3yqzIriTbYVA6FVzY8HLpif1bBzit8KaVs_5hDegT9yFduHohOn8LHjEFTXWinXBuBU0Jp9gpckUkm2F5sCw5GkGaSXBX1JjTc12RG3u6ciw1ZylyGDD4JowcN1L3CSpQPBjD8MmUES4G9_lhKjrylZWPmg6JtqkzpAsT8tT6aEUOOefzsqI0ZoBUhOeGNPgW2nb1pmxFBa-uAXw930jUGqFWaPm8Vmf5_zeL3jD0GeAemZ_MPMASCxvI5DjAT35m5XJcv6Ve8N8tY2H54X_G58nqq2a4AvJbmU3Hwkv70rRskoF3k1elPyEkl48d7EfHr74lsl8tUe0zpx_2qFUYFBqxcwDVows-lFERW55J0JSq0S_6VOTCGVWH1a8YENq_SIgAJTuKqPrjXYPcfanGm827NcaiNhoU71Xk5LTVVoOGUp07QMXI_px0ZFFfCZNS64z6svxg4ZOSYwTSynZs_SKh6WYBMg=w927-h695-no



I got something like the following, but it was buzzing below it's (supposed) rating, so I got nervous, didn't trust the quality, and replaced with more expensive interlocked QO breakers. This one can have both off, or one on, or the other.

The contacts may have been burned from arcing with high DC current switched underload. Also, the internal mechanism to change the toggling direction may have caused too long of a pause in the middle, promoting arcing

This one may work better, but rated for AC switching. Usually there's magnetic field built-in DC switches to extinguish arcing

..but am generally wary with stuff from across the pond

using this for my auto transfer now: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Tr...=B096G5RFH9&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_7_t
 
Haaaaa! It took time and I did a lot of tests before finally find the solution ?
So, to have the Chevrolet Bolt set in ''inverter mode'' (don't shut off by itself after 1-2 hours) you have to: Turn the car on, apply the parking brake, shift into neutral, and exit via the passenger door.

With my Vanabolt I don't have to exit via passenger door as the car system don't ''see'' his doors ?
thanks for the tip. In Neutral, it seems a lot of system/pumps are on, with a lot more sound; which is surprising. Have to find out of what's happening, would rather have less components running
 

I suspect contact gap in switches is not sufficient to be an "isolator" for safety of people vs. grid voltage transients.
Might be OK for protecting some equipment, but expensive inverters I'd want to be more careful with. Possibility of backfeed and lineman safety, I don't think an arc would occur powered by inverter, but it wouldn't meet utility company requirements.

This one may work better, but rated for AC switching. Usually there's magnetic field built-in DC switches to extinguish arcing

..but am generally wary with stuff from across the pond

I did see a German version, various DIN components that can be ganged, which I would be more inclined to trust.
There are DIN "Breakers" which I think qualify as isolators and "supplemental protectors" which do not.
 
In Neutral, it seems a lot of system/pumps are on, with a lot more sound; which is surprising. Have to find out of what's happening, would rather have less components running
Oh! It's the same for my Vanabolt. I thought that was caused by my modified Chevy Bolt, but you report the same. Let me know if you find how to reduce pumps speed in neutral.

During outages I preferred let run the Vanabolt for 1h in park as this was enough to charge the home battery. After it turn off by itself, so I don't have to go outside to stop the van.
 
During outages I preferred let run the Vanabolt for 1h in park as this was enough to charge the home battery. After it turn off by itself, so I don't have to go outside to stop the van.
since the PowMr is pulling 3kw to charge the external pack, 1hr is quite sufficient. I have an MPP-U5648GK (48vdc/5kw system), do you think it would work as the PowMr ? there is an max amp charging setting, probably as the PowMr

 
do you think it would work as the PowMr ?
To me, MPP and PowMr, Voltronic, EAsun, SRNE and others similar inverter are all the same clone. Probably all based on MPP, I'm not sure.

So, yes, I think it will work the same as my PowMr, but with power limited at 6000W as it's the spec.

I didn't try to reduce Amps. It set at his max (80A) and that give the 2000W I recorded (25V, 80A).
It will be interesting to set the Amps lower and see how react the inverter. It's adjustable at 10-20-30-40-50-60-70 or 80A.
 
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