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4 new Himassi Lifepo smart bluetooth 12v100ah batteries and testing - simple observations.

D71

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Observations

Setup 4 new Himassi LIFEPO smart bluetooth 12v100ah batteries and testing - simple observations.

4 new LIFEPO smart bluetooth batteries charged individually.... show and maintain 100%after charge but within a 2 day period the 100% creeps down to 99% per individual battery. 2 days.

So take all 4 LIFEPO smart batteries 12v 100ah and charge to 100% again. Tie them parallel all positive to positive and all negatives to negatives with zero - no external load preparing for a follow up series tie.
Next day 24 hours later parallel batteries are all at 99%. So at this connected drain rate the batteries will most likely be dead in 100 days at 1% self discharge each day -24hour period.
The smart feature will have drained them down to 0% or to whatever the bms is programmed to shut itself down stopping that drain. Whatever. Again No EXTERNAL loads are on the parallel 4 smart batteries and this is just all internal load. 1 day 1% drop ~13.3 volts each battery as bluetooth reported.

What is the advantage of smart bluetooth batteries besides the builtin smart bluetooth feature draining the batteries. Again the Parasitic loads are built into these batteries. An Inverter will add more parasitic draw at idle so more items using load - power will increase additional loss.
Example My refrigerator not doing anything - pulls 2.5 watts... suspect it is just running the defrost timer.

What is the 100% SOC and Drain Rate for charged Lead acid batteries if no load In 24 hours or 100 days for a percentage?

What is the 100% SOC and Drain Rate for Silicate Salt Batteries if fully charged no load in 24 hours or 100 days for a percentage?

Are LIFEPO smart bluetooth batteries really worth it?

How much does a normal bms without bluetooth pull in a LIFEPO 12v 100ah battery in 24 hours or 100 days?

How much does a 48volt EG4 "type server rack battery" pull itself each 24 hours or 100 days no load? As understand it the 48 volt eg4 has only have 1 bms.
.
Seems there is an advantage to buy 48volt Server Rack type batteries such as: sok eg4 and others vs individual smart bluetooth to run in series. Less bms
Ppl seem to always talk about inverter idle state loss and waste but what about bms waste....I will say the Bluetooth allowed me to see this reported loss of 1% a day..... but dead batteries from a complete shutdown system in 100 days is not good either.
What to do. Silicate salt batteries are heavy but... have not seen much info on them for no load shutdown = drains. You can crank a car with silicate batteries. Hmmmm 20% dod.

BTW the code password into the Himassi smart bms app is 666666 but it is monitor only Had to search the web for it. Also read on a website that the internal heaters will not let the bms battery charge function until temp reaches 50 degrees f with the internal applied heat. Hmmmm
 

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My new batteries had arrived ~12.8volts around ~3.2mv per cell per 12 volt battery 0% SOC per bt bms.

48 hours later batteries are still maintaining 99% and each cell is showing balanced at ~3334mV give or 2-3 mV for all 16 battery cells. Hmmm the batteries seem to have consumed the 1% to balance all cells while in a parallel circuit setup. It has been suggested that batteries need only 12 hours to balance when set in parallel before going to series.
Mine with 100% SOC batteries took 24 hours to set the balance and used 1% of the battery capacity in each battery. in this process.
When all 4 are put in series it should work out to be ~53.3 volts.
These Himassi Lifepo smart bt with internal heaters - 12v 100ah batteries were $249 each x 4 = $999.96 plus tax - shipping was free.

Think will leave them in parallel for a week with no load to see if the percentage drops more. One of the batteries the blue tooth comes and goes and sometimes it will connect and at other times it will not just spins and hangs up software. The software has to be reloaded or my device or device has to be cycled to get software out of blue tooth connection mode with software. Think it is that battery as it is the only one that does this.
Hmmmm if the 1% drain per 24 hours has stopped then these are a win.
Just playing..... but all the suggestions to balance cells in parallel setup before going series seems legit although mine took about 24 hours and lost reported 1% per the bluetooth bms in each battery per the app.
Sometimes it is a gamble buying cheaper stuff time will tell.
I think the instructions say can add 4 more of these batteries in series then parallel. Have 2 series sets of 53.3 volts x100ah= ~10.6kw in parallel
If math is right then that would be ~10.6 kw for around ~ $2000.

Decided to charge to 100% since the SOC percentage maintained indicated ~99% after 48 hours. Am going to wait about 24 hours and see the SOC and indicated balance. The difficulty is each battery has 4 cells series in each battery then I have those 4 batteries in parallel .... hmmmmm the current cell mV SOC is more varied then previous.... will again give 24 hours to see how it stabilizes for cell mV. Is it correct that a new lifepo cell should indicate ~ 3.65 mV at a 100% full SOC minus an applied bms?
 

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Observations

Setup 4 new Himassi LIFEPO smart bluetooth 12v100ah batteries and testing - simple observations.

4 new LIFEPO smart bluetooth batteries charged individually.... show and maintain 100%after charge but within a 2 day period the 100% creeps down to 99% per individual battery. 2 days.

So take all 4 LIFEPO smart batteries 12v 100ah and charge to 100% again. Tie them parallel all positive to positive and all negatives to negatives with zero - no external load preparing for a follow up series tie.
Next day 24 hours later parallel batteries are all at 99%. So at this connected drain rate the batteries will most likely be dead in 100 days at 1% self discharge each day -24hour period.
The smart feature will have drained them down to 0% or to whatever the bms is programmed to shut itself down stopping that drain. Whatever. Again No EXTERNAL loads are on the parallel 4 smart batteries and this is just all internal load. 1 day 1% drop ~13.3 volts each battery as bluetooth reported.

What is the advantage of smart bluetooth batteries besides the builtin smart bluetooth feature draining the batteries. Again the Parasitic loads are built into these batteries. An Inverter will add more parasitic draw at idle so more items using load - power will increase additional loss.
Example My refrigerator not doing anything - pulls 2.5 watts... suspect it is just running the defrost timer.

What is the 100% SOC and Drain Rate for charged Lead acid batteries if no load In 24 hours or 100 days for a percentage?

What is the 100% SOC and Drain Rate for Silicate Salt Batteries if fully charged no load in 24 hours or 100 days for a percentage?

Are LIFEPO smart bluetooth batteries really worth it?

How much does a normal bms without bluetooth pull in a LIFEPO 12v 100ah battery in 24 hours or 100 days?

How much does a 48volt EG4 "type server rack battery" pull itself each 24 hours or 100 days no load? As understand it the 48 volt eg4 has only have 1 bms.
.
Seems there is an advantage to buy 48volt Server Rack type batteries such as: sok eg4 and others vs individual smart bluetooth to run in series. Less bms
Ppl seem to always talk about inverter idle state loss and waste but what about bms waste....I will say the Bluetooth allowed me to see this reported loss of 1% a day..... but dead batteries from a complete shutdown system in 100 days is not good either.
What to do. Silicate salt batteries are heavy but... have not seen much info on them for no load shutdown = drains. You can crank a car with silicate batteries. Hmmmm 20% dod.

BTW the code password into the Himassi smart bms app is 666666 but it is monitor only Had to search the web for it. Also read on a website that the internal heaters will not let the bms battery charge function until temp reaches 50 degrees f with the internal applied heat. Hmmmm
Just my thoughts here but not letting the battery charge till 50 degrees is likely because the manufacturer is not confident that the center of the cells is above freezing until the area where the temp probes are located is at and maintains 50 degrees.. when you heat a piece of meat in an oven at a fixed heat rate such as these heating pads, the outside temp may be 200 degrees but the center may only be 150 degrees for example. and the temp probes here cant be placed inside of the individual cells. They lock these things out so non engineer type regular folks dont change settings without understanding things like this and damage the battery.

Likewise increased reliability and cell balance can be had when charging to less than the absolute max 3.65v ceiling on these cells. so many only charge to a lower voltage and give up a slight amount of ah for longer cell life. I believe I saw a youtube test where charging to 3.55v only gave up like 2% capacity. That said it could also indicate poorly matched cells as its more forgiving and less likely to have runners if set to a lower max charge voltage. the other thing to consider is this is supposed to replace a acid 12v battery which has a lower 12.7 nominal voltage... some devices and applications wont like 14.6v so limiting the battery to 14.04 v might make it more universal as a replacement with fewer claims and returns.

I also wonder if the heaters in your battery had kicked on at any point and drained them some... these batteries are typically used in applications like solar where they will regularly be charged and 1% a day loss is acceptible as a trae off for things such as temp protection and status monitoring abilities. No matter what they do someone will not like it. I also bet you were connected to the battery quite a bit during that 2 days and an active bluetooth connection does draw quite a bit more power than an idle device without a connection.
 
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So you’re the one that ordered 4! I was holding off while I did more research. Saw my cart go from 4 to 3, yet it just said 7 available. Hmm. Refreshed… now 3 available! Oh well, in for 2 now. Glad you got some and posted interesting info.

Will see what can be done with these. Hopefully they’re not garbage, because $500 is a lot of money for me. I was going to build a pack till seeing these. Probably still should.

Though looking at the drain you mention, I’m slightly worried because ~.5w seems tad high. I’d read the EE-BMS filings that indicate only tiny 4.8/5.1ma TX/RX at 3.5v, and 0.5μA in standby / disuse. Obviously many factors here, but may it settle down once cells are balanced?

Using a single BMS would help with vampire draw, so maybe the 200ah for $500 vs 2x100ah for $500 isn’t so crazy after all. I liked the idea of flexibility, but 1w drain is too much. Maybe I‘ll cancel my order and get one to study first.
 
So you’re the one that ordered 4! I was holding off while I did more research. Saw my cart go from 4 to 3, yet it just said 7 available. Hmm. Refreshed… now 3 available! Oh well, in for 2 now. Glad you got some and posted interesting info.

Will see what can be done with these. Hopefully they’re not garbage, because $500 is a lot of money for me. I was going to build a pack till seeing these. Probably still should.

Though looking at the drain you mention, I’m slightly worried because ~.5w seems tad high. I’d read the EE-BMS filings that indicate only tiny 4.8/5.1ma TX/RX at 3.5v, and 0.5μA in standby / disuse. Obviously many factors here, but may it settle down once cells are balanced?

Using a single BMS would help with vampire draw, so maybe the 200ah for $500 vs 2x100ah for $500 isn’t so crazy after all. I liked the idea of flexibility, but 1w drain is too much. Maybe I‘ll cancel my order and get one to study first.
Sorry could not pass ~5kw setup for under $1000 at that price and advertised features. Just think if the heat feature works as advertised it will definitely be worth it..... can charge in cold weather. I looked at the vestwoods battery over there too. Did not get a good vibe. I figure if the cells are good if have to can disassemble it especially at the price per advertised feature everywhere else. The batteries like these are ~2x price. I almost bought their 48 volt... no heaters. Am playing with the batteries charge right now. The software app passcode is 666666 to see - monitor cell voltages. They love number 6
As stated one of my smart batteries the bt is glitchy.. I don't see an external way to reset it for that battery.

These batteries were $200 less then most other similar ADVERTISED batteries. They also measured the size needed to fit my metal roll around cabinet. The other batteries 12v 200ah 24v 100ah are to big. The Himassi 48 volt battery was ok for size but no heater or BT ~$560 more then 4 singles smart batteries. Not a bargain.

Still trying to decide how big a solar array to make for my setup. Got a mpp solar 3048 to go with it $555 delivered.

Btw if you go off just their battery prices then the Sungoldpower entire starter solar setup is a bargain .... free shipping and no taxes shown in pictures
 

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Hah! Relatable shopping experience and opinions. You definitely hunted through the same muck I did this week, least on batteries. Though I’d not seen those kits before. Interesting find.

Some downsides seem to be:

•Can’t physically reset chintzy BMS, which will inevitably fail to connect via BT

•Can’t easily program / configure BMS
— passcode 666666 is read-only permissions?
Be nice to occasionally set low-temp cutoff to 5°C vs default 20°C, or low-voltage cutoff to a saner 10.4v vs the costly ~8v default many of these have.

•Can’t disable BTLE access that has unpublished, static, and simple authentication, allowing exploits and preventing legitimate owner operations

•EE-BMS app could use a leaner alternative, by the looks of it

Yet, including shipping, and all the other costs, this is only 2x raw cell prices for a complete friggen battery pack with heaters! I’m hopeful this will be a game changer rather than a dud. Mine should arrive this week.

Now that I’ve decided on batteries, I’ll be shopping for… literally everything else. Not my usual strategy, but as you’ll understand, there was a deal to catch! I’m still not totally sure what I’m even doing with these two batteries, but <$0.20/wH was calling. Probably try something semi-portable given the sealed and self-heating form.

That MPP 3048 was cheap. I don’t see that price right anymore, but will see if there’s anything of remotely similar quality / value in 24v range for starters. Think that one is 47-64v.

@Dking mentions another setup problem I’ve wondered about with this operating principle of heated batteries here

Are you able to torture test the maintenance / safety features? My plan is to do what I can soon as they arrive so I can return them swiftly if there’s major problems
 
Hah! Relatable shopping experience and opinions. You definitely hunted through the same muck I did this week, least on batteries. Though I’d not seen those kits before. Interesting find.

Some downsides seem to be:

•Can’t physically reset chintzy BMS, which will inevitably fail to connect via BT

•Can’t easily program / configure BMS
— passcode 666666 is read-only permissions?
Be nice to occasionally set low-temp cutoff to 5°C vs default 20°C, or low-voltage cutoff to a saner 10.4v vs the costly ~8v default many of these have.

•Can’t disable BTLE access that has unpublished, static, and simple authentication, allowing exploits and preventing legitimate owner operations

•EE-BMS app could use a leaner alternative, by the looks of it

Yet, including shipping, and all the other costs, this is only 2x raw cell prices for a complete friggen battery pack with heaters! I’m hopeful this will be a game changer rather than a dud. Mine should arrive this week.

Now that I’ve decided on batteries, I’ll be shopping for… literally everything else. Not my usual strategy, but as you’ll understand, there was a deal to catch! I’m still not totally sure what I’m even doing with these two batteries, but <$0.20/wH was calling. Probably try something semi-portable given the sealed and self-heating form.

That MPP 3048 was cheap. I don’t see that price right anymore, but will see if there’s anything of remotely similar quality / value in 24v range for starters. Think that one is 47-64v.

@Dking mentions another setup problem I’ve wondered about with this operating principle of heated batteries here

I think the key is deciding how you want to use it. Some ppl say "I am cheap." I say "am frugal and want money spent wisely and low cost especially if it works". this is a gamble at the same time. I don't normally gamble .... again any new tech is a gamble. For inverters it is like picking your own poison on the cheap. For price with lifepo batteries can take them apart if absolutely have to for salvage.... with lesson learned I'm not sure could send them back and if do what then? I like what have read about the power queen plain - 12v 100 ah too but they cost more then these. At a higher price point will look at server rack batteries. The server rack battery shipping is crazy high $300 to me Can you imagine a problem and having to pay $300 to return it? $600 shipping... Nope?

I am building nothing but a survival backup home system in a tall metal roll around cabinet... am going to again only use it only in emergencies or may use it to run things like lights tv and kitchen appliances like the refrigerator.
I had previously cut my electric bill from $180+ a month to under $98 a month with selection of new high seer heat pump, propane tankless water heater, and some additional home insulation. Side note will declare energy saver for tax breaks too Standard electric water heaters are energy pigs.
Refrigerator is a constant draw so is the pool pump in summer. I will probably build 12volt or 24 volt solar system just to run pool. Old Pool pumps are expensive to run-replaced mine after it burned up with inverter multi-speed program model - cheap $320 for what normally cost ofer $1000...... Xtreme Power model pool pump.

I bought the 3048 because it can be ran in parallel if so desire with another one later on. Was not aware but you have to buy the parallel kit separate. ? The 2424 hybrid was interesting too. I think 24 volt AIO systems might be easiest way to get started. i like the separate components too. In the end though decided 3048 -48volt system. the 2424 hybrid can be parallel too. Only reason didn't want 2424 hybrid is to ensure if anything ties to grid it is not my fault - no glitches in software. The 3048 is not a grid tie aka sent power to them.

If build ADDITIONAL just pool pump solar station it'd probably be components system or the 2424 hybrid as a consideration no grid hook up. Using just 24 volt batteries and solar for operation. They ran out of the low frequncy 3000w inverters at sungoldpower when they did the black friday sale at $499 each. The sungoldpower inverter that I wanted will not be restocked and am not paying extra for just an inverter monitor with it. .
The pictured 3000 watt low freq inverter below from eBay also ran out.
Low freq is probably better for something like a pool pump.... only thing worrying me is anyone gets shocked around pool.... insurance might not cover it and needless to say don't want to know am responsible. It has been a back and forth deal not sure how well it would comply with code even on gfci type breaker. May just leave it on grid gfci setup like it has been for my own piece of mind.

I am certainly not a solar guru just someone looking for bargains and scour the internet. Hehehe I am frugal. ?


Btw the 4 batteries in parallel with no external load have creeped back down to 99% so the bms and BT are sucking some juice 1% so far. I have them in a heated space so temps are showing 70-72 degrees with software which is about same .... BT running usually pulls juice on everything.

Ever notice how the little stuff adds up? I'm waiting on a hardware kit to show up - mount everything to metal cabinet. That hardware kit was $30... which is cheap now but few years ago would of been half price. I am not going to local hardware store because everything is crazy high in there. Hahaha Think am around $2300 for this science project Don't even have solar panels yet. Hahaha should have bought the system from sungoldpower ... still had to buy things with it. None of the kits are 100% complete. ?

Let me know how those batteries work for you. Been nice if had external switch to do a reset for bt bms. We've either jumped on a good deal or a steaming pile. Hahaha hoping good deal if not will open the cases and salvage them if can't return. Lesson learned ?

.
 

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Good news the himassi smart batteries are not losing 1% a day for discharge. Seems to be holding at just a 1% drop to 99% SOC still tied in parallel seems the cells are showing more balanced now
About like watching paint dry
 

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Cell balance even closer, main battery voltage down, and still at an indicated 99% SOC
Static: from full charge and no loads other then internal smart bt bms.
Guess will hook up in series and apply load as voltages are not the only metric.
 

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At that voltage on each cell I would expect the absorption phase could last around 8 to 10 hrs?
 
At that voltage on each cell I would expect the absorption phase could last around 8 to 10 hrs?
I have no idea on your question per those times. Lifepo is sorta new to me. I was literally gun shy of lithium batteries account one blew up in a flash light attached to a weapon-thermal run away full melt down. Looked like the name sakes SureFire in attached picture. The other were lithium 1.2v cells. Any way backed away from them until considered building back up power supply system account power outages in my local. Annoying especially more frequent in the summer. Suspect it to worsen. My battery experience has been most 64 volt dc lead acid battery systems when operation at charge 72-75 volts dc batteries were only one part of for Diesel Electric locomotives - very large corporation. 24 volt nicad aircraft batteries rebuilding reconditioning process A&P license.

Lifepo is promoted as super safe vs older lithium.

The last 10-20% of the SOC- battery charging process did take a while think my charger was maintaining indicated 14.1-14.2 volts at a start amp of ~16 with amps down as SOC increased at 80-90% point until it reached 100% indicated SOC. Initial 1st charge took a while from indicated 0% SOC. Each battery was charged with 12 volt charger. Will swap to 48 volt charger when charging next time with 4 - 12 volts in series or just let MPP Solar 3048 AIO do charging. Right now am just playing and am waiting on ordered stuff to arrive and assemble my cabinet-slow boat from china.

The charts at this website are interesting and in particular voltage to percentage SOC.

What find most interesting Amazon - Himassi sent these lifepo smart batteries to me at an indicated 0% soc. I expected to see it at a 50%.
Per your earlier post the heaters may have kicked in during storage or shipment from exposure to cold.... i would think the bms would have shut down before 0 % but then again these type batteries are claim rated from 100% to 0% to 100% SOC.
Do you happen to know what state of charge new ~3.2 volt 100-105ah cells show up when delivered?

This is about as cheap as found new cells so building a battery was out. Add cost of bms and time invested just not worth it vs buying this.

Any idea how new lifepo battery cells are Q.C. Verified?

This place seem like a real company in China per website and that is why went with them besides the low price at $250 each smart 12 volt. Of course a lot of these companies post pictures and such. They claim to be both in China and AU.


How is himassi able to do lifepo batteries at this price per the features compared to other companies?

Alibaba look inside listed 12.8volt 400ah with heater

I suspect the BMS in the Himassi battery is farmed out as maybe the same for the heater. These are not listed on alibaba to purchase from Himassi. Again not sure how they do it at this price point compared to other companies. Smart bt bms are pricey.

Maybe like total sum of a vehicle purchase compared to outrageous purchase sum of all the parts priced separately to build our own. Sometimes though if know where to get all the parts super cheap can do a build. 2008 build 80cu clone ~100hp 6speed mucho cheaper then a harley at the time. Faster too.
 

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Hell… serves me right for the verbosity, but my full reply seems to have gone to null.

In short: Mine just arrived! Will test arrival voltages etc this evening. Haven’t made time for these yet this week, but have some ideas to charge these from transformers in my junk pile while still shopping for a portable, configurable quiet, sorta future proofed AIO inverter.
 
Hell… serves me right for the verbosity, but my full reply seems to have gone to null.

In short: Mine just arrived! Will test arrival voltages etc this evening. Haven’t made time for these yet this week, but have some ideas to charge these from transformers in my junk pile while still shopping for a portable, configurable quiet, sorta future proofed AIO inverter.
Wordy is good. I often ramble hahaha old age. Let us know if the SOC is "0" for your himassi batteries. I read in one post that it is illegal to ship at more then a 30% SOC. Who knows and don't feel like looking it up. Makes me wonder if they conditioned and tested the cells before assembly.

I am still convinced if they last the 5000 cycles as advertised then we got best bargain on the internet considering all the features vs price point. I looked at this company for a while and if read it right they make a lot of custom batteries but who knows. I have learned from dealing with banggood website years ago that these Chinese companies lie like a bug in the rug.

If you wanted to build 2 batteries or more just don't see the value of that . Check the attached picture just some of the components would cost $832 and still need cases, buss bars, cell separators, and such. I don't see building a battery as a cost saving value.

I did come up with pool pump solution just a 48 volt dc pool pump, mppt, and a solar panel array running from 650 watts to 800 watts. No battery No ac inverter. Check the picture. Now my decision is to build a 1600-1800 watt array and split half and half... for pool pump and emergency back up power with ab switches on pool pump solar array to divert - combine to home back up. Hmmmm hahaha sometimes make things complicated but like multi-purpose too. A pool pump adds lot to electric bill.

Keep us informed with your batteries. Hopefully we got best deal out there - fingers crossed hahaha

Himassi shows some interesting videos products at alibaba as listed in previous post.

I charged mine with automotive 12v smart battery charger agm setting.. 14.1-14.2 volt ~16 amp and it tapered off until 100% soc. It took a long time for each battery and checked soc often with blue tooth. I shut it down immediately after bms kicked in and charger tried switch to float mode. These batteries are suppose to be 12 volt lead acid replacements. So treated them that way. I bought a 48 volt lifepo charger for later.

Victron has good stuff but it is expensive. Some ppl say spend money and cry once. Problem is it can break too. Cry twice and at the price cry over and over. Hahaha ? If you find the golden goose let me know

Figuring out you inverter set will be a tough one. AIO is easy way. If sungold had not ran out of inverter then might have pieced LF assembly together. If one component goes bad with an aio then what? Trust me went back and forth with myself over that.
 

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First off, I detected the batteries in the delivery neighborhood tens of minutes before they arrived. That’s a first for something I’ve ordered, and given the hardcoded authentication and static address I’m seeing some major privacy and security problems. I banked on that though, and being able to track a shipment down to ~6 m² was both awesome and eery.

They arrived well charged, and completely programmable without even opening the box. Again, that’s begging for problems down the line but for now I’m on with it.

Both arrived at 12.93v, with a 0.007v delta across 8 cells, so I’d estimate >92% SoC but will be interesting to confirm this week.

I’ve changed the low temp cutoffs to sane levels, and strategically used this to test draw to the heaters etc. More to learn later, but I’ve made good notes along the way.

Did dinner tonight and nobody wanted to hear about my evening plans! I may be in deep here till this is setup nicely into … something. So far the value is excellent. I’m happy!
 
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I am still convinced if they last the 5000 cycles as advertised then we got best bargain on the internet considering all the features vs price point.

So far I think we did! I’m pretty happy. Stayed up late like a loon but preliminary testing is good.

If you wanted to build 2 batteries or more just don't see the value of that . Check the attached picture just some of the components would cost $832 and still need cases, buss bars, cell separators, and such. I don't see building a battery as a cost saving value.

The light duty materials, like the steel lugs etc are not ideal. However for lighter duty purposes, this is looking promising. Watt hours per weight and volume for the price was my muddy logic. Peak amps aren’t a concern, so think I can skate by without copper everything.

I did come up with pool pump solution just a 48 volt dc pool pump, mppt, and a solar panel array running from 650 watts to 800 watts. No battery No ac inverter. Check the picture.

Interesting! I’m stuck in the mindset of maximal system integration, if nothing else to see what’s still impossible, but for your purpose it seems reasonable.

I charged mine with automotive 12v smart battery charger agm setting.. 14.1-14.2 volt ~16 amp and it tapered off until 100% soc.
Classy. I tried a portable jump starter battery’s regulated output but no dice, it only puts out 14v when voltage sags <12v to conserve energy. Worth a try, and as a bonus, I learned those “smart” jumper cables are a great way to wake up a battery after simulating a BMS cutoff. That was a major worry of mine when this was still all theory — that I’d somehow need to plug them in briefly to use them after BMS shutdown, or some BS while I’m in the boonies or whatnot. Overriding this via Bluetooth seems plausible but was inconsistent in my tests so far. However the AC charger is labeled 15v but measured for 14.1v, and direct pass-through on the barrel adapter via jumper worked a treat. Albeit 14v@1A so if these didn’t arrive mostly charged, guess this would take a week.

Victron has good stuff but it is expensive. Some ppl say spend money and cry once. Problem is it can break too. Cry twice and at the price cry over and over. Hahaha ? If you find the golden goose let me know

Hah! Relatable. I’m definitely looking for the golden goose, and taking some calculated risks. I like Victron ok, nothing wrong from what I see from afar. They’re in the running. However I’m not convinced their value is there for me. Maybe later, either after I build a much greater system or get bitten by bottom bidder manufactures. Only time will tell.

Indeed, the inverter is proving to be a beast to shop for. So far, it appears I’ve expensive tastes in chargers and cheap tastes in batteries!
 
So far I think we did! I’m pretty happy. Stayed up late like a loon but preliminary testing is good.



The light duty materials, like the steel lugs etc are not ideal. However for lighter duty purposes, this is looking promising. Watt hours per weight and volume for the price was my muddy logic. Peak amps aren’t a concern, so think I can skate by without copper everything.



Interesting! I’m stuck in the mindset of maximal system integration, if nothing else to see what’s still impossible, but for your purpose it seems reasonable.


Classy. I tried a portable jump starter battery’s regulated output but no dice, it only puts out 14v when voltage sags <12v to conserve energy. Worth a try, and as a bonus, I learned those “smart” jumper cables are a great way to wake up a battery after simulating a BMS cutoff. That was a major worry of mine when this was still all theory — that I’d somehow need to plug them in briefly to use them after BMS shutdown, or some BS while I’m in the boonies or whatnot. Overriding this via Bluetooth seems plausible but was inconsistent in my tests so far. However the AC charger is labeled 15v but measured for 14.1v, and direct pass-through on the barrel adapter via jumper worked a treat. Albeit 14v@1A so if these didn’t arrive mostly charged, guess this would take a week.



Hah! Relatable. I’m definitely looking for the golden goose, and taking some calculated risks. I like Victron ok, nothing wrong from what I see from afar. They’re in the running. However I’m not convinced their value is there for me. Maybe later, either after I build a much greater system or get bitten by bottom bidder manufactures. Only time will tell.

Indeed, the inverter is proving to be a beast to shop for. So far, it appears I’ve expensive tastes in chargers and cheap tastes in batteries!
When I was a kid lead acid batteries were often rebuilt reconditioned over and over. Rarely were the old lead acid batteries thrown away or recycled like now. They were often opened and cleaned.. reassembled and fresh acid /distilled water added - recharged to live again. I have saved Lead acid batteries by simply doing a drop test and rough handling them to clear the plates.... then trick my smart charger into reconditioning -working with a trickle charger also applied to the battery.
The cheap trickle charger has worked time and time again. Recovered lead acid lawn mower batteries over and over with this method. Same for my truck battery. Smart chargers refuse to work when lead acid are 0 - low volt soc.
We basically did the same thing for recovering GNB lead acid batteries for locomotives. Used a trickle charger to trick the main smart battery charger reconditioning to begin. Old locomotive batteries were almost twice as heavy as the newer version. The old locomotive batteries would last 10+ years and pushed to 15 years or more in some cases. So old the outer cases would crack and become unstable. The new batteries only last 4-7 years at most. The company worked for spent a small fortune trying to save these batteries account were so expensive.

I considered using lead acid batteries vs LIFEPO
I also consider Silicate Sodium batteries.... the light weight and low price of these batteries won me over. Plus think they will out last typical lead acid batteries. Have you seen the price of lead acid batteries lately. Finally bought a new lead acid battery for my truck got an additional 3 years out of the old one. The new truck battery was about $225.00 for an automotive battery. Deep cycle lead acid batteries are expensive

I think we got a bargain. Time will tell. That shown red motorcycle had an agm battery go up in smoke while charging.... had to cut cables and toss battery out in yard to save the bike. AGM and lead acid can flame up too. A friend of mine had a car battery short - damaged blew his hood up in the explosion. I don't think any stored energy is safe. When my metal containment cabinet gets here will assembly my system. I think that slow boat from china is going in circles. Ordered a patio table set directly from china once and it took ~1.5 months or longer to get here.

BTW figure Himassi will no doubt raise their prices if become popular. I personally think LIFEPO are way over price and being honest would preferred a 48 volt server rack type battery. Himassi makes those too. Apparently they have not reached the american market and if when they do the ppl in the middle will mark them up for a profit. The chinese are cutting the middle men out of a lot of deals and it is pissing them off. The lure use to be lower price for consumers but lately noticed the chinese are charging a lot more and becoming wealth in process and cheap alternatives are drying up. Harbor Freight is an example. Cheap has gone up
 
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First off, I detected the batteries in the delivery neighborhood tens of minutes before they arrived. That’s a first for something I’ve ordered, and given the hardcoded authentication and static address I’m seeing some major privacy and security problems. I banked on that though, and being able to track a shipment down to ~6 m² was both awesome and eery.

They arrived well charged, and completely programmable without even opening the box. Again, that’s begging for problems down the line but for now I’m on with it.

Both arrived at 12.93v, with a 0.007v delta across 8 cells, so I’d estimate >92% SoC but will be interesting to confirm this week.

I’ve changed the low temp cutoffs to sane levels, and strategically used this to test draw to the heaters etc. More to learn later, but I’ve made good notes along the way.

Did dinner tonight and nobody wanted to hear about my evening plans! I may be in deep here till this is setup nicely into … something. So far the value is excellent. I’m happy!
Amples, Thank you for the details! You were able to confirm the heaters came on? and you are able to change settings with the App?
 
Battery with glitchy BT finally stopped responding. New battery changed out and charged ... customer service was easy simple no fuss. They issued a ups return label. New BT battery Working fine. A1 boom boom. Hahaha they did good. If anyone buys one or more of these batteries - the "c mos" will turn itself off and on .... perfectly normal.
 
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Amples, Thank you for the details! You were able to confirm the heaters came on? and you are able to change settings with the App?
Well I’ll detail findings later. Sorry, life got in the way. Some serious quirks though:

First, their BMS uses a poorly programmed TI system system.

UTD works, UTDC doesn’t. I can set it to 40°C and it never disconnects C-MOS, explicitly disabling C/D MOS yields, “不支持“ (not supported).

This cheap workaround allows it to accept power for the 2 heaters maybe and keep BT on but it’s problematic. When set to 20°C UTD / 20°UTDC, it showed no charge (0.00 amps), and disconnected D-MOS at 16°C. Ok fine, at least good way I can disconnect D so I don’t fry things I thought.

Well… I put in 900mA for a few hours with my 10 year maintenance charger and the 4 internal probes read 19°, 19°, 25°, 25°. BMS only reads reads highest value of first two probes apparently for this purpose, sensibly. However at 20°C, it still showed the Heating State OFF, but switched D-MOS on and zapped my charger to death. Ah hell! I’ll miss that guy. In future, I’ll set UTD/C to 40°C while charging till I understand what the hell happened, to keep D-MOS off.

So problems:
UTDC settings don’t work as expected
D/C-MOS toggles prominently featured but inexplicably unsupported via BT
Taper current can’t be set over 9A yet it comes from factory higher! Need physical connection to BMS to reset, glaring oversight. Don’t touch this setting unless you want all your packs permanent <9A, else you’ll never bring them to parity.

Also I scored 8x280aH cells locally for $500 so I care less about these now. May start another post if I use the two BMS from these guys for my cells in a new enclosure though.

I still don’t regret this purchase yet. It’s a very convenient form factor, and they appear to work mostly. I’ll contact the company about the snags I’ve encountered and measure their response to determine whether I keep these. Given experiences like @D71 et al. I’m thinking they’ll do right by me.
 
Battery with glitchy BT finally stopped responding. New battery changed out and charged ... customer service was easy simple no fuss. They issued a ups return label. New BT battery Working fine. A1 boom boom. Hahaha they did good. If anyone buys one or more of these batteries - the "c mos" will turn itself off and on .... perfectly normal.
I purchased 4 of these batteries last week- expect to receive them on Tuesday. Seeing that they replaced one for you so quickly is really nice to see. I am using these to replace the sealed lead acid in my Ryobi zero turn lawn mower. They were basically the same price as the SLA. My concern now finding a 48 volt charger for them.
 
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