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A Question on MPPT Controllers

I saw a video from Projects in Paradise 808 where he mentions he uses ferrules on his Victrons, but I've heard from both sides of their use.

My coworker suggests I modify the Victron by frankenstein-ing it to somehow use different terminal types, but I'm not a mad scientist and wouldn't know where to begin. I'll keep tinkering with the Victron, but as far as my setup goes I'm quite contempt with my cheap PWMs for now.
Don't believe everything you see on the internet.

Just use the correct wire. No reason to make any modifications to the equipment. West Marine has high strand wire by the foot if you don't want to wait for an internet order.

I tested using solar wire instead of high strand wire in the Victrons and the difference in temperature was surprising.
 
And then you have this post which is from the manuals. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/source-to-buy-quality-wire-ferrules.60670/post-750872

After using ferrules, it would be rare I'd go commando.
Victron can't seem to decide on the topic of ferrules. The underline on the last sentence in screenshot below is from the original, taken from Victron's wiring unlimited. Also, the 'screw connector' shown at the top is clearly an SCC. I have also seen the Victron community forum post indicating that ferrules are not recommended. I think, 'use your judgement' is probably a good idea here. Personally, I always use ferrules for fine stranded connections and will continue to do so.

1707769793653.png
 
So a quick update on the CC dilema...

I had went to a solar supply store to purchase better PV wires. The shop had helped out with replacing all of my wiring and I asked if they could install the Victorn that wouldn't keep my old wires tightly connected. Unfortunately, we were unable to get the new wires to stay inside the terminals tightly either. One of the installers had told me the terminals which many MPPT controllers use can be easily damaged, and was uncertain if there are any MPPT controllers with bolt terminals (such as my PWM shown at the beginning of this post).

So... until I luck out and come across an MPPT with similar terminals as my PWMs, I will be stuck using my old PWM controllers. Although the shop did say a lot of PWM controllers sold by Renogy use similar terminal connectors, I've had a bad experience with Renogy products in the past.

In case someone does spot an MPPT online or even has one they would like to sell that uses bolt terminals, please send me a PM. Thank you for all of your input on the situation everyone!
 
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I was right in the beginning; backlashed again for a simple question. I'll request this thread be pulled.
 
I was right in the beginning; backlashed again for a simple question. I'll request this thread be pulled.
Seems rather extreme reaction on your part to the responses you have received.

I am not a Victron user so I can not say conclusively that your problem with the wire terminals is their poor design or simply misapplication on your part. I just know that Victron's market is the mobile (boats and RV's) one so I would expect that a problem with vibration loosening terminals would be a major topic of frequent discussion. I have not see this in my research.

Edit: Incidentally I have found on some terminal types on various DC breakers and SCC's that the first tightening is insufficient to hold. The stranded wire compresses and can pull loose. It takes several rounds of tighten, loosen and re-tighten to reach a good long term hold.
 
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Strain relief connectors
extra wire support/clips to structure to ensure the wires can't move and pull out
wire box - clearly Victon has thought about this issue.
fine strand wire
ferrules

solder the wires into the terminals?
OR
open the case, remove the factory terminal block, add your own block with threaded studs. Done.
 
Use ultra fine strand wire that is big enough to fill the hole. Make sure terminal block is fully open. Rotate wire slightly as you insert it into terminal block to keep loose strands from sticking out and potentially shorting to other wires. Wiggle the wire as you clamp it down to help the strands settle before final tightening. Done. The connection is not going anywhere.
 
I was right in the beginning; backlashed again for a simple question. I'll request this thread be pulled.
Questions are always good. But the bottom line is you need to decide for yourself what information to use. I just put together a system that uses a Victron 110/30 MPPT due to a tight bend in the wire's were pulling out a bit. I installed ferrules and a strain relief to correct.
 
Questions are always good. But the bottom line is you need to decide for yourself what information to use. I just put together a system that uses a Victron 110/30 MPPT due to a tight bend in the wire's were pulling out a bit. I installed ferrules and a strain relief to correct.
If the OP has an extreme case, off-road vibration, problems with the wires coming loose, could they solder a small blob on the very end of the wire, so that once tightened into the terminal block the solder acts like an anchor - ie slightly larger and stiffer bit at the end of the wires to ensure it can't pull out. - just thinking out loud.
 
Use ultra fine strand wire that is big enough to fill the hole. Make sure terminal block is fully open. Rotate wire slightly as you insert it into terminal block to keep loose strands from sticking out and potentially shorting to other wires. Wiggle the wire as you clamp it down to help the strands settle before final tightening. Done. The connection is not going anywhere.
and how not to. (screen shot from a"40 year electrician" who claims the wiring was correct.)
3F0B6DBF-842A-4863-818E-0B21F4AB1153.jpeg
 
Use the Wire Box accessory to secure the wires on the 100/20.
The "wire box" does not do anything to secure wires , it just covers them up.

No matter what kind of wire, it should have strain relief.

I use Adel clamps
 
solder a small blob on the very end of the wire, so that once tightened into the terminal block the solder acts like an anchor
No. Solder will wick between wire strands and bind the strands making this connection a fire hazard because solder can melt and loosen the connection. Happened to me once. You should never crimp or compress soldered wire.
 
Incorrect. There are clamps on a metal bracket under the cover.
View attachment 196167
I see now. Thank you.
Does it grab the insulation or the wire?
This is not shown on the website or described without digging. And why the heck is it not included with EVERY cc?
All advertisements show the plastic cover, that inner piece is pretty darn important to not show. It simply says it "covers all terminals preventing accidental contact"

Screenshot_20240217-101940_Chrome.jpg
 
I see now. Thank you.
Does it grab the insulation or the wire?
This is not shown on the website or described without digging. And why the heck is it not included with EVERY cc?
All advertisements show the plastic cover, that inner piece is pretty darn important to not show. It simply says it "covers all terminals preventing accidental contact"

View attachment 196170
It grabs the insulation.

I included a link above to the PDF that shows how to install it.
 
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