I think he must have "Known a Guy" and got a "Great Deal" on it. You should have seen the nightmare of electrical setup he had that fried my first generator!
The water table is about 200ft down, the hole is 305ft according to the drilling report (those things are useful!) and I figured when I was forced to replace it I'd drop the new one down a lot lower. I've run that well dry before trying to get the plumbing all sealed up.
So basically physics says Nope. OK, that's why I asked. It's still working now but draws 11a on each leg of a 220v breaker so the math says either 3Hp or 30% efficient.
I guess I'll put it on the list to replace the pump someday with a solar based one, just not any time soon. I'm still trying to get out there to install the array and system so I can run the lights without the generator running all night. Believe it or not it's REALLY hard to commute from South Korea to Eastern Washington in the 7 hours I have off between watches.
Are you certain the roof doesn't come off?I thought about that too until I found out that it's hard pipe all the way down so I'd have to either move the pump house or cut a big hole in the roof.
I don't know why, it was installed by the previous owner's dad in the 80's.
Oh yeah, it's steel roof on actual plywood on 2x4's 16"OC over fiberglass insulation over 1/8" sheathing. I really don't want to cut a hole in the roof of the shed I just paid off 3 months ago.Are you certain the roof doesn't come off?
If you're moving the shed, swap the pump to a grundfos sq and use your current system. Also add a pitless adapter to the well casing and you don't have to worry about freezing.Oh yeah, it's steel roof on actual plywood on 2x4's 16"OC over fiberglass insulation over 1/8" sheathing. I really don't want to cut a hole in the roof of the shed I just paid off 3 months ago.
Well, Plan-B looks like I'll have to drop $4100 and get the Shop Solar 4kw 240v package to power the pump and hire the company I bought my shed rom to come out and lift/scoot/set it a couple feet over. That leaves the top of the well head and pipe exposed to the weather but I figure I can build a plywood insulated box around it without too much work.
Fortunately this is a backup plan so no hurry right now as I'm still getting my camp 3kw solar setup installed when I get off the boat next summer and getting the last couple things to get my grid power hooked up.
Actually centrifugal pumps used to pump liquids refer to cavitation all the time. In production processes it is common to throttle the discharge valve beyond the pump (downstream side) but you never throttle the valve on the suction side of the pump due to the fact you will cavitate the pump. Cavitate means to create space or form bubbles That's why you put your centrifugal pump at the bottom of your well. If you put it at the top of the well all you will do is suck air.I guess that's true, but the term usually refers to the effects on a piston or a prop.
Steel pipe, galvanized or otherwise comes in all schedules. Schedule 40 being the most common. Rigid conduit is schedule 40. Most steel pipe used for water is schedule 40. Many plant process systems use schedule 80, 120 and 180. Power plant steam operates at around 1500psi and uses schedule 180.Do they make sch40 in metal?
if it were me, I'd put in a storage tank and a small pressure tank using a much smaller pump. HF and other places sell small pump/pressure tank combo units for $150 or so. motor rated at 10 amps, so a way smaller battery setup to power it! not to mention, the startup surge would be way less because it's not starting against 300' of head pressure. use a genny to fill the storage tank off your existing well pump once a week or less, then use the little guy to supply your needs from the tank. overall you'll spend much less $$$. you may even find a smaller power draw pump and pressure tank combo that would work.