diy solar

diy solar

Beginner looking for advice on set-up

mosesp

New Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2023
Messages
14
Location
Baltimore MD USA
Hello, I am planning to build my first solar set-up, with no experience other than watching some videos and reading articles. Below is the set-up I am considering, and I would appreciate any thoughts that people have on it:
  • Would it function?
  • Are any components missing?
  • Is one component over/under sized compared to others?
  • Are the manufacturers reputable?
  • How would it scale if I added more panels or batteries?
  • Etc.
The application is to power my garage, collecting and storing power daily to support weekend use of AC tools.

Potential system components, including links:
  • Renogy 100W 12V Monocrystalline panel (VOC 24.3V)
  • Renogy Wanderer 30A charge controller
  • (MC4 and tray cables included with panel and charge controller)
  • Renogy Bluetooth module
  • Renogy 1000W 12V pure sine wave inverter
  • Li Time 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 battery
Thanks in advance for any thoughts and feedback!
 
Are the manufacturers reputable?
I’d pick nearly anything over Renogy myself
Is one component over/under sized compared to others?
you would want more than a 100W panel. 200W minimum but knowing what I know now (started with 200W in 2019) I’d probably start with at least two 300W panels.
Renogy 1000W 12V pure sine wave inverter
What loads do you intend to power?
I found 1000W a bit limiting; 1200W less so, but other than heavier power tools I am functioning well with a 2000W QZRELB pure sine, and low idle consumption. Giandel 1200W was also very dependable.
Li Time 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 battery
Again, without knowing the items requiring power it’s hard to say if that’s adequate. It might be; if you are going to live with it daily it probably won’t be adequate. Not due to brand, but just due to how many amp-hours you might need.
 
What will you be using it for?

I use Renogy and they work fine but I am not fond of their inverter and had one fail on me.

It sounds like you are setting up a recharging station similar to one I use.

If you are not using it for a steady load that will work fine.

If you will be using it everyday then I would go with at least 200 watts of solar.

In general you want at least twice as much solar in watts as you have amp hours of battery capacity.

So for a 100Ah battery you want at least 200 watts of solar so that it will recharge that battery in about 5-6 hours of good sun.

You can do a lot with that small system and it will run a 12 volt fridge, recharge your phone and gadgets, run a laptop, led lights, recharge tools and run small cooking appliances.

You can always expand that later with another 200 watts solar and 100Ah battery and I lived off grid for 10 years with just a 400 watt system.
 
Hello, I am planning to build my first solar set-up, with no experience other than watching some videos and reading articles. Below is the set-up I am considering, and I would appreciate any thoughts that people have on it:
  • Would it function?
Yes
  • Are any components missing?
Fuses ( I would suggest a schematic to assist with this )
  • Is one component over/under sized compared to others?
Solar is way low. ( load info needed to help here )
  • Are the manufacturers reputable?
Some do not like Renolgy. I have had no issues with them.
  • How would it scale if I added more panels or batteries?
If you plan on upgrading buy the largest solar charge controller you can afford. ( If your educated on the subject, the sky is the limit )
  • Etc.
The application is to power my garage, collecting and storing power daily to support weekend use of AC tools.
With this info the system is very undersized.
Potential system components, including links:
  • Renogy 100W 12V Monocrystalline panel (VOC 24.3V)
  • Renogy Wanderer 30A charge controller
  • (MC4 and tray cables included with panel and charge controller)
  • Renogy Bluetooth module
  • Renogy 1000W 12V pure sine wave inverter
  • Li Time 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 battery
Thanks in advance for any thoughts and feedback!
To be fair this could be a great "learning" system. But if you are serious consider a 48 volt system. ( Tends to be a addictive hobby )
 
  • Renogy 100W 12V Monocrystalline panel (VOC 24.3V) Via testing, I personally have found Renogy panels to to have the lowest measured output of all the brands I've tested. I wouldn't though buy 12V panels from any manufacturer, even if Renogy is the only choice. Go with more efficient high-voltage residential sized panels. Shop on Craigslist for panels. Far more watts/$ with cash and carry pricing.

  • Renogy Wanderer 30A charge controller I will never again implement anything with a PWM controller. Go with MPPT. Then you can supply your system with higher quality high-voltage residential panels. With the PWM controller, your little 100W panel will never output more than 60-80W.

  • Renogy Bluetooth module Really not needed unless you just plan on sitting on the couch rather than controlling your system hands-on

  • Renogy 1000W 12V pure sine wave inverter I'm not a fan of 12V. AC powertools running on an electric motor have a significant starting surge. A1000W 12V inverter may or may not handle that. I personally went with 24V for my workshop, and I am very happy with it. My Conext SW4024 has handled a cememt mixer, a 1.6hp air-compressor, and all my power tools, without noticing.
  • Li Time 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 battery That's small. I'd consider 200Ah at 24V to be adequate.
 
From what you've described, the easiest and cheapest way to achieve a reliable and powerful enough solar setup for your garage tools would be by going with the Ecoflow Delta 2 or Delta 2 Max route.


Budget-friendly;
- Ecoflow Delta 2 - 1kWh Battery, 1800W AC inverter, AC charging and up to 500W solar input
- min 400W solar panel

If you can spend a bit extra, consider;
- Ecoflow Delta 2 Max, 2kWh battery, 2400W AC inverter, AC charging, and up to 1000W solar input
- min 1000W of solar
 
Way more solar than you think you need. Every time I see "starter systems power your whole house!" type videos, it's always the bare minimum for perfect sun at the equator... barely.

Local used panels if you can find a place to put them (they're heavy) are usually a better value. If you're only going for 100w panels, get the cheapest 100w glass panels (Avoid flexible!!!111oneoneone) you can find on Amazon for the free shipping and good replacement plan if shipping goes wrong. Rule of thumb is 10a of charger per 100w of panels. I'd recommend 400w of power at least and a 40a SCC.

Renogy charges a premium for the brand name, there are cheaper and better options available. I've become a big fan of HQST if you have the money or Sunsys or PwoMr if you're working on a tighter budget.

Double your battery at least, you'll want the extra capacity and the extra power delivery that 2 batteries gives you.

1000w is OK if you're using basic hand tools, but a circular saw will be pushing that limit. 2000w is about the top end of what 12v should be feeding. 2000w saves you buying another inverter later when you realize your miter saw is too much for a 1kw.


Another thought to consider, being as that this is a learner system, is roll with an AIO. For comparable price you can get a 24v battery with a 200a BMS, a 2700 or 3000w MPP or Growatt inverter, and those will support upwards of 2000+w of solar panels. I can tell you from personal experience that my 1Kw system whined about the old circular saw, but my 3Kw Growatt never batted an eye at the miter saw or my 12gal air compressor as long as it wasn't at the same time. Plus AIO's will usually involve less wiring and breakers and such.

Breakers and/or fuses will be needed all over the place, but that's going to be determined by what size components you use. MSPaint makes for good doodles, but pen, pencil, and a camera are also common submissions.

Now on to the Blurb!!! ?
 
Thank you all for your advice!

This is definitely a "learning" system for me, wanting to get familiar with the basics. That's why I thought to stick with 12V. If I were to go to 24V or 48V, how much would the complexity increase?

Overall, looks like the system would need to be up-sized: panels, charge controller, inverter, and battery. Thank you for the note about fuses-- I will include them after studying their use!

A few follow-up questions:
  • Panels: is it better to get multiple 100s (wired together) or to buy bigger panels?
  • Charge controller: if sticking with 12V, is there still a benefit to MPPT technology over PWM?
  • AIO / plug-and-play systems: I have briefly looked at those and my understanding is that some of them use proprietary connectors from the panel to the unit. Is that right? I am hoping to be able to connect to any panel, including expanding in series or parallel-- do the plug-and-play systems support that?
Thanks again!
 
Blurb time!

Well, I'll start the default answer to these questions and we can work from there. Here's you To-Do list:

1: Power audit! This will give you some important information on how big your inverter needs to be as well as how much battery capacity you'll need. There is a link in the FAQ section (I think, or someone here will post it shortly) so fill in the blanks and see what it comes up with. You'll probably need some sort of Kill-A-Watt to get accurate measurements. Are you going to be running a 12v system? 24v system? 48v system? What are the specs on your solar panels? VoC? Vmp? Being as this is a new build, throw together a wish list of what you want and estimate on the high side.

1a: Where do you live? Speccing out a system for Scotland is a LOT different numbers than Arizona due to the amount of light you actually get. Someone here can post the link to the PVwatts.com or JCR Solar Uber-Sun-Hours calculator sites to help figure out how much you'll have to work with. That will be a box in the Power Audit form.

2: Parts list: You don't need a make & model list, just a parts list to start from for reference. You'll need an inverter, a MPPT charge controller, fuses, shunt, buck converter, batteries, wire, etc. Once you have a basic list it can be fine tuned to make & models after that. If you're looking at the All-In-Ones check for correct voltage outputs (120v or 240v Split Phase for North America, 220v Single Phase for European type areas) and make sure it has enough capacity for a little bit of growth and fudge factor.

3: Budget!: Steak is great but doesn't mean anything if your wallet says hamburger. :) Figure out what you're able to spend now vs what you'll have to cheap out on now and upgrade later.

4: Tape measure! Figure out where you're going to stick all the stuff you'll need. A dozen 3000AH batteries sounds great until you're sleeping on the floor because there's no room left for a bed. Is there a compartment that can house all this stuff? Will the server rack batteries fit? Are you going to have to make space? Physics can be pretty unforgiving.

5: Pencil out what you think you need and throw it at us so we can tell you what you've missed (because we ALL miss stuff the first go-round :) ) and help figure out which parts and pieces you're going to want to get.

Well that's the thing about solar systems, there is no 1-Size-Fits-All answer. Your system will need to be designed to fit YOUR needs. When you design and built the system, it's not going to be the perfect system for me, or Will or 12vInstall or anyone else, but it Will be the right system for You and that's the goal.

As for where to get started, let me throw my standard blurb in here to help point you in the right direction. There's going to be a lot of math and research involved, but that's going to be a LOT cheaper than just buying parts off of someone's list and finding out that it doesn't do what you need.

Don't panic on the Power Audit, you'll actually be doing that a few times. When you do the first pass put in ALL the Things that you might want. AirCon? Sure. Jacuzzi? Why not. MargaritaMaster-9000? Go for it.

The second pass will be the "I Absolutely Need This To Survive" list that isn't going to have much on there.

The third pass will be the "This is what is realistic" audit that you'll use to design the rest of the system.

The Power Audit is going to tell you 3 primary things: 1: How big does your inverter need to be to power your loads? 2: How much battery bank do you need to last $N number of days with krappy weather? and 3: How much solar panel will I need to install to refill those batteries in a 4 hour day (the average usable sun hours rule-of-thumb).

Once you know what you Want and what you Need and what your budget can Afford there will be somewhere in that Venn diagram where those three things meet.

After that, THEN you can start looking at parts.

Yes, it's a long drawn out process, but it's worth it in the end. Not every house has the exact same floorplan, not every vehicle is the same make & model, and not every solar system is designed the same.
 
Thank you all for your advice!

This is definitely a "learning" system for me, wanting to get familiar with the basics. That's why I thought to stick with 12V. If I were to go to 24V or 48V, how much would the complexity increase?
Complexity? None really. You've still got all the same parts they're just more expensive. I would advise keeping it small and simple at this point. If you think you might break something, break a CHEAP something! I used a LOT of the WalMart DC29 deep cycle batteries in places and for starter systems because at the time they were only about $100 out the door and the cheapest LFP battery was $400+ so if I killed a battery figuring things out it was a CHEAP battery! Likewise my first MPPT controllers were the old all metal PowMr 60a because at the time they were less than half the price of the cheap Renogy version but still did the job (and still doing work 6+ years later) but if I had fried it, it would have been a cheap part.
Overall, looks like the system would need to be up-sized: panels, charge controller, inverter, and battery. Thank you for the note about fuses-- I will include them after studying their use!
It's really going to be determined by what you want to do with it. If you're only charging tool batteries and a couple ceiling lights, that's a MUCH smaller system than one that needs to run a miter saw or small air compressor which is MUCH smaller than one needing to feed a welder and a table saw. First step is a power audit, figure out what you want it to do, then build that system to do it.
A few follow-up questions:
  • Panels: is it better to get multiple 100s (wired together) or to buy bigger panels?
Bigger panels can usually be found used locally on Craigslist and the like for MUCH cheaper per watt than the bog standard 100w flavors. Since you're going to want all the solar you can get, they're a much better value. Down side is that they're in the 50+lb range and take some work to get mounted. Youy also need a proper MPPT controller to take the higher panel voltages and get them down to lower battery voltages.
  • Charge controller: if sticking with 12V, is there still a benefit to MPPT technology over PWM?
Massive benefit! Higher voltages gives you better production in lower light, 98+% efficiency compared to a PWM 75% or less, ease of overpaneling, and the list goes on and on. As a pro tip, with only a couple exceptions if the charge controller has USB ports on it, it's really a cheap PWM that has the word "MPPT" on it to get money from suckers. :unsure:
  • Ecoflow (or other plug-and-play systems): I have briefly looked at those and my understanding is that some of them use proprietary connectors from the panel to the unit. Is that right? I am hoping to be able to connect to any panel, including expanding in series or parallel-- do the plug-and-play systems support that?
Some do, most come with some sort of adapter to go from their XT60 or 8mm or Aviation to the standard MC4 that panels come with.
Thanks again!
We're here to help. (y)
 
Lots of good answers but OP hasn't responded and I think this is just a recharging station for battery tools and small power tools.
 
It's only been 30 minutes, why the hurry? ?
More like 7 hours from when I responded but I hope he does come back.

New members forget to check the email notification on their posts and then when they come back they can't fine them.

I will PM him tonight if he doesn't show up.
 
Thank you all for your advice!

This is definitely a "learning" system for me, wanting to get familiar with the basics. That's why I thought to stick with 12V. If I were to go to 24V or 48V, how much would the complexity increase?

Overall, looks like the system would need to be up-sized: panels, charge controller, inverter, and battery. Thank you for the note about fuses-- I will include them after studying their use!

A few follow-up questions:
  • Panels: is it better to get multiple 100s (wired together) or to buy bigger panels?
  • Charge controller: if sticking with 12V, is there still a benefit to MPPT technology over PWM?
  • AIO / plug-and-play systems: I have briefly looked at those and my understanding is that some of them use proprietary connectors from the panel to the unit. Is that right? I am hoping to be able to connect to any panel, including expanding in series or parallel-- do the plug-and-play systems support that?
Thanks again!
You can connect any solar panel to Ecoflow Deltas, it uses an XT60 connection on the station side. So basically the connection between the solar panel and the portable unit is done via a cable that has MC4 connectors on one end, and an XT60 connector on the other. That's all there's to it.

I'd imagine for power tools, you most likely want to be able to power tools up to 1600W AC. In an instant, at minimum, you'd like to have at least a 24V 100Ah battery.

If you are equally interested in going the DIY route and learning more in the process as having a solar system for your garage, the DIY route is perfectly fine.

If you are looking for the best option to have a solar system capable of delivering what you need, reliably and that doesn't break the bank, I'd recommend considering what I've suggested previously.

An Ecoflow Delta 2 or Delta 2 Max depending on the budget. Plus, down the road, if you decide to upgrade, selling a working AIO system will be a much easier thing to do.
 
use Renogy and they work fine but I am not fond of their inverter and had one fail
oxymoron
run a 12 volt fridge,
he’s on a $4k budget, not $40k
Renogy certainly have a reputation....
a bad one at that
if you are serious consider a 48 volt system
i am not certain the budget constraints nor intended usage make that a consideration; I’m pretty serious LOL and I’m running on a 12VDC/2kW 120VAC inverter system with about 2kW of panels active, currently.

48V default doesn’t always fit situations. Especially for the stated goal of backup.
In my case it only makes sense as a separate second system for the shop tools since my household needs are exceeded with the current system, a have backup components should any one item fail, and I have a gasoline generator should the need arise.
. I wouldn't though buy 12V panels from any manufacturer, even if Renogy is the only choice. Go with more efficient high-voltage residential sized panels
Truth, there. My 100W panels have all been series configured for higher voltage for several years, my six 315W panels are series, and even my yet-to-be-deployed used thinfilm 60W panels are ~96V VOC.
That's small. I'd consider 200Ah at 24V to be adequate.
To OP for context that might be useful as a newbie: that’s like four of the batteries you noted.
2000w is about the top end of what 12v should be feeding
No dissing the redneck here, and that is a realistic envelope. I think 2500W starts being too much, though I also consider 3000W as the absolute ceiling on 12V. With several LiFePo batteries in a battery bank you can “hold down” the discharge maximum from each battery to a reasonable level (my 480Ah bank has three parallel batteries for example) and if going ‘high’ to like a 3000W inverter I’d likely utilize four batteries.
This is definitely a "learning" system for me, wanting to get familiar with the basics. That's why I thought to stick with 12V. If I were to go to 24V or 48V, how much would the complexity increase
My opinion is unless you can afford to build a ‘learning system’ to just do the energy audit as suggested, make some decisions on what to power and for how long, and then adjust or keep your budget and buy what fits the needs the first time. Mistakes or rethinks on a project will ‘learn you’ but proper planning and appropriately thought out components will let your system work as expected out of the gate. No kidding: people here can save your wallet because we know what works, and if the wallet requires compromising you will know what to expect in advance.
Complexity? None really
24V isn’t more complex, neither is 48V, but there can be variables that do not specifically lend you practical benefits.
For example, I’m absolutely sure a $25,000 48V system will do what you want, but if all you need is 2400W or 5000W you might be better of starting out 24V or 12V and just adding more battery capacity and/or panels.
Let’s figure out what you need and want before you start listening to what brand and voltage you should have. $4k budget should make sure your expectations are accurate and doable or adjust accordingly.
Lots of good answers but OP hasn't responded and I think this is just a recharging station for battery tools and small power tools.
The application is to power my garage, collecting and storing power daily to support weekend use of AC tools.
Well dang. I thought I was in another thread I guess
A 12/24 volt fridge like the Alpicool is less than $200
Ya. That’s not a refrigerator; I’d not wanna live out of a cooler. Ever. Unless it was a weekend camping trip, and ice is pretty cheap while not needing batteries.

I guess I need to go back to find the other thread I thought I was in.
 
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he’s on a $4k budget, not $40k
A 12/24 volt fridge like the Alpicool is less than $200.

Uses only 45 watts when running and used by many off gridders.

Used mine 24/7 for 5 years now off a small system.

"Renogy certainly have a reputation....
a bad one at that"

Have you used Renogy and had problems or is that because you use a different brand?
 
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