diy solar

diy solar

Beginner needs to buy components before going to Mexico

Inverter: I’ve been running a Giandel for 3+ years some of that 24/7 without complaint. Also 24/7 since April this year.
The remote on/off was handy when I wasn’t using an electric fridge.
I never bought a backup/second unit but I’ve had one in my Amazon cart for a few months lol

I don’t think that would be a bad choice if you’re not going to buy in the top-shelf category. Too many stories online about replacing renogy stuff!
 
Inverter: I’ve been running a Giandel for 3+ years some of that 24/7 without complaint. Also 24/7 since April this year.
The remote on/off was handy when I wasn’t using an electric fridge.
I never bought a backup/second unit but I’ve had one in my Amazon cart for a few months lol

I don’t think that would be a bad choice if you’re not going to buy in the top-shelf category. Too many stories online about replacing renogy stuff!
Thanks for the confirmation. Do you have a charge controller you like?
 
Regarding loads, what about the water system? If you are off-grid electrically, do you have a city source for water? Is it an aljibe in the ground w/ a pump to send up to a tinaco on the roof? Or is it a pump w/ bladder to pressurize the water lines? Pumps plus filtration/UV system all draw watts. Need to add those in to the mix.
OK gents, we have pictures of the equipment in Mexico. I hope it’s useful to see what’s there now. This is in the battery room and probably needs attention. View attachment 63018View attachment 63019View attachment 63017
TriStar Controller.
This is an mppt controller.
Are you sure about that? Given the age of the system it looks a lot more like their PWM model, which comes in 60amps. Not too important given that they are replacing it.
 
Get your DIN style Siemens stuff here in Mexico, cheaper than in the USA .
I was looking for some spares after last night lightning strike
ABB

Best breakers in the world !!!
We used professional NOTHING else ! industrial, Merchant navy, Yachts ,

Use C rate curve breakers lightning fast
 
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Get your DIN style Siemens stuff here in Mexico, cheaper than in the USA .
I was looking for some spares after last night lightning strike
Used MercadoLibre a lot in Mexico. Two thumbs up!
 
Regarding loads, what about the water system? If you are off-grid electrically, do you have a city source for water? Is it an aljibe in the ground w/ a pump to send up to a tinaco on the roof? Or is it a pump w/ bladder to pressurize the water lines? Pumps plus filtration/UV system all draw watts. Need to add those in to the mix.


Are you sure about that? Given the age of the system it looks a lot more like their PWM model, which comes in 60amps. Not too important given that they are replacing it.
Great question. Our water is gravity fed from a tank on the roof. But that brings up an interesting point. We have 2 on-demand gas water heaters to install (been in the garage down there for years) and they require a pressurized system. The tanks are on the roof on the opposite side of the house and I need to get power over there. It’s about 50 feet away. Dad has a 12v pump and was thinking of just putting a separate 12v battery there. Anyone have another solution?
 
Get your DIN style Siemens stuff here in Mexico, cheaper than in the USA .
I was looking for some spares after last night lightning strike
ABB

Best breakers in the world !!!
We used professional NOTHING else ! industrial, Merchant navy, Yachts ,

Use C rate curve breakers lightning fast
Sorry, not sure what DIN style Siemens stuff is.
 
Great question. Our water is gravity fed from a tank on the roof. But that brings up an interesting point. We have 2 on-demand gas water heaters to install (been in the garage down there for years) and they require a pressurized system. The tanks are on the roof on the opposite side of the house and I need to get power over there. It’s about 50 feet away. Dad has a 12v pump and was thinking of just putting a separate 12v battery there. Anyone have another solution?
Yep, buy in Mexico a Bosch water heater for low pressure, (tenaka style ) the small one goes for 2500 Pesos with conection kit .
we have the same one but for higher water pressure .
 
Sorry, not sure what DIN style Siemens stuff is.
Din rail system ,breaker and so on , univerasl bushbars one fase and 2 fase and 3 fase, absolute 100 % universal , solid, perfect isolated, nice waterproof non metal boxes, so much better than the standard USA/Mexico style metal crap.
I have change my house complete out for Din style
 

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Great question. Our water is gravity fed from a tank on the roof. But that brings up an interesting point. We have 2 on-demand gas water heaters to install (been in the garage down there for years) and they require a pressurized system. The tanks are on the roof on the opposite side of the house and I need to get power over there. It’s about 50 feet away. Dad has a 12v pump and was thinking of just putting a separate 12v battery there. Anyone have another solution?
Depends on price of 50-100 feet of cable vs. separate battery. You would need to keep this battery charged too…
 
Great question. Our water is gravity fed from a tank on the roof. But that brings up an interesting point. We have 2 on-demand gas water heaters to install (been in the garage down there for years) and they require a pressurized system. The tanks are on the roof on the opposite side of the house and I need to get power over there. It’s about 50 feet away. Dad has a 12v pump and was thinking of just putting a separate 12v battery there. Anyone have another solution?
50 feet ! run a cable !
 
A) your charge controller was a good higher-end unit. So cheap stuff like my charge controller would be a step down. It seems like the better stuff might be better for you but here is a 60A option: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085TBYP6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H3VK7KZHXHS7FE0AHW81

B) if you have gravity fed water: a 12V pump that will up the pressure to 45psi or do is like $80. A check valve, pressure ballast tank, and a pump loop and you have pressurized water. The pump doesn’t have to be at the tanks…
 
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You are better with one large system .
The rv pumps don’t hold up
I use a AC rv pump it’s lasted 3 years so far
As far as a charge controller I like morning star mppt , I have a out back fm80 it works good
Mid nite is a nice unit 150 is a nice unit
I would of used one but out back works with the rest of my system .
You are correct. The inverter is 30+ years old, and finally died. The charge controller was replaced after the hurricane in 1997. One thing I noticed in the picture from my battery room is the yellow light on the Morningstar unit. That light is what either makes Dad happy or not. With no one there, new batteries, and only the refrigerator running shouldn’t it be green if it’s working correctly?
It depends ,
You don’t have a lot of solar coming in
And I don’t know what battery’s you have .
But l16 need enough power to stir the acid in the tall case .
If you look at the manual it will tell you what the yellow means
But on my controllers I seam to get a yellow lite when I’m below 90%
I would not keep the frig on for months if no one is there
I turn off my system when I leave .
If I’m running out for a few days I keep the system on .
If your place sits for months it would be better to charge the battery’s up and leave
The system off .
You need to charge every month for one day .
You could get a small charge controller and just a few panels and float the system .
Or if you could turn off some of your panels you could use your charge controler .
I lost a set of battery’s because my expensive rpever controller faulted out 13 days out of warrantee☹️
 
You are better with one large system .
The rv pumps don’t hold up
I use a AC rv pump it’s lasted 3 years so far
As far as a charge controller I like morning star mppt , I have a out back fm80 it works good
Mid nite is a nice unit 150 is a nice unit
I would of used one but out back works with the rest of my system .

It depends ,
You don’t have a lot of solar coming in
And I don’t know what battery’s you have .
But l16 need enough power to stir the acid in the tall case .
If you look at the manual it will tell you what the yellow means
But on my controllers I seam to get a yellow lite when I’m below 90%
I would not keep the frig on for months if no one is there
I turn off my system when I leave .
If I’m running out for a few days I keep the system on .
If your place sits for months it would be better to charge the battery’s up and leave
The system off .
You need to charge every month for one day .
You could get a small charge controller and just a few panels and float the system .
Or if you could turn off some of your panels you could use your charge controler .
I lost a set of battery’s because my expensive rpever controller faulted out 13 days out of warrantee☹️
It sounds like we may have fallen victim of a wive’s tale. Dad understood leaving something on was good for the system. If not we’ll turn it off when leaving. Thanks for the tip.
 
It sounds like we may have fallen victim of a wive’s tale. Dad understood leaving something on was good for the system. If not we’ll turn it off when leaving. Thanks for the tip.
You'll need to check out the battery specs. Trojan L16's state that their self-discharge rate is "5 – 15% per month depending on storage temperature conditions." So leaving them completely disconnected would last only so long. But leaving them connected would risk overcharging and possibly going dry, sulfation, stratification, etc. You have to have some sort of maintenance/trickle/float charge going on. There are many reasons it might be best to have a local turn your system on one or two days a month just to keep things topped up and be available if things go wrong.
 
I would not of picked the frig to run for no reason .
I think maybe on the beach it could good to leave on to keep things dryer .
Battery do die weather you use them or not .
But it depends how long you are leaving for , and the battery’s have to be @100%
In warm weather they will self discharge and need some juice
Once your battery’s get below 75% they start to sulfate rapidly .
My system has 4500 watts of solar If I have to leave here early morning before I’m charged up I can turn off 4 strings and leave just 900watts on .
I adjust my charger for the season I’m in ,
It is best to finish my absorb charge in late after noon and let the battery charge slowly
In may/ June I turn off 1800 watts of power
To day I’m going to add water and eq and turn on my 4th string by November I’ll have all 5 strings on .
Then there is voltage I’m charging at 58.5
Now , next month I’ll up that to 59 at chitmass im at 59.5
It all depends on weather , sun and how your acid reads I like to just get to 1.275 or a little more every day
 
Hmmmm I’m off grid in the middle of no where .
I barely get cell service with my booster .
No internet and I would still need to leave the system on , but trigger charging .
It’s easiest to just turn it off .
I just bring food back and forth .
I do have the mate hooked up and I can get it on line if the stars are lined up and I’m having a good day .
some days I can just get a random text .
I lost service twice typing this ?
 
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