EG4 18kPV Q+A general thread

[Zapper77]

I can try again. Tried it yesterday.

It is not connected anymore to my router. On the dongle the first light is solid. The second cloud one blinks constantly.

I'm out of ideas. Unless you have access controls turned on in your Router that's restricting new devices.

 

[hyperlite1604]

For Local Connect, Click Wi-Fi BA31******, then log out of EG4 app, click local connect

That worked for a bit yesterday but won't connect anymore. Can you send a screenshot of your network settings page from the 10.10.10.1 page? I think when I reset the device to factory settings it messed up something on that page.

 

[BKY2003]

Have log out to be able to see the local connect, on the front log in page

 

[BKY2003]

That worked for a bit yesterday but won't connect anymore. Can you send a screenshot of your network settings page from the 10.10.10.1 page? I think when I reset the device to factory settings it messed up something on that page.

I am not able to access it right now. But I will look at it later. Did the direct connect button work for you? It doesn’t require all the passwords, it just connects straight in.

 

[Zapper77]

Thank You!

I was wrong.

 

[Kenny_]

I was wrong. View attachment 174753

Thank you! Important to know!!

 

[y0bailey]

Finally have the solar panels on!

Still have to AC couple and hook up GRID/LOAD ... But the panel addition is complete!!

 

[Zapper77]

Same thing. I connect to the local broadcast and it says it sent successfully sent the network settings but never actually changes it when I go back to to 10.10.10.1 page.

It did connect once to my wifi network for a bit yesterday but it never connected to the monitoring software. That's why I am wondering if one of my settings is off. Maybe the network setting page?

 

[hyperlite1604]

I am not able to access it right now. But I will look at it later. Did the direct connect button work for you? It doesn’t require all the passwords, it just connects straight in.

No I get this

 

[hyperlite1604]

View attachment 174755

Thanks! I will try these later!

 

[BKY2003]

No I get this

I do also if I am not close enough. Otherwise, I don’t know.

 

[Zapper77]

No I get this

Looking at the wifi icon on your computer...looks like your wifi switched back over.

 

[Kenny_]

I hesitate to mention this (cause I can't locate the details) but I recently got a new router and found it worked with all my computers and devices but one older laptop. Seems the new routers have new default channels or something and some older equipment will not connect to the new defaults... Don't know if that might or might not be the issue here and apologies for not being able to provide details/links.

 

[y0bailey]

Alright... Can someone give me the run down of settings I need to change or worry about for my next weekend install.

Overall goal is to sell back excess production (1:1 net metering already in place with my current solar edge setup), keep the battery full for emergencies, and have things seamlessly transition with outages.

Obviously I need to just enable the grid sell back setting. It defaults to 12k watts, I don't have enough solar to hit that mark so do I even need to worry about changing that setting? I'm on a 200A service/breaker.

I need to check the "run without grid setting" to have things function/transition with outages.

I need to enable AC coupling. It defaults to SoC 50 to 90 which seems reasonable enough?

Anything else I need to tweak?

 

[Zapper77]

I forgot that I had issues connecting when my 2.4 and 5ghz network shared the same name. My new router has a independent 2.4ghz IOT band.

 

[BKY2003]

I tried an extender to force the EG4 18Kpv on the individual bands. Had no success..

 

[cs1234]

Just get the $200 ethernet adapter attachment and you'll be good to go. ?

 

[BKY2003]

Alright... Can someone give me the run down of settings I need to change or worry about for my next weekend install.

Overall goal is to sell back excess production (1:1 net metering already in place with my current solar edge setup), keep the battery full for emergencies, and have things seamlessly transition with outages.

Obviously I need to just enable the grid sell back setting. It defaults to 12k watts, I don't have enough solar to hit that mark so do I even need to worry about changing that setting? I'm on a 200A service/breaker.

I need to check the "run without grid setting" to have things function/transition with outages.

I need to enable AC coupling. It defaults to SoC 50 to 90 which seems reasonable enough?

Anything else I need to tweak?

Can you post some screenshots of your settings?

 

[zanydroid]

Hilarious because I researched this yesterday.

4 x 2/0 wires doesn't exceed conduit fill requirements. No reason I could find that wouldn't allow it and I had the same plan.

Don't take my word for it however... Hopefully someone smarter chimes in.

Need to derate for 4x. I missed the context but I assume you are angling to parallel.

 

[y0bailey]

Need to derate for 4x. I missed the context but I assume you are angling to parallel.

No parallel plans at this time. Just a single battery. Does that change your response?

 

[Shimmy]

Is there an issue with running the 4 power cables, the battery rack ground and a communication wire through the same conduit from battery rack to inverter? I'm cutting a hole in the back of the rack, towards the top, for 2" conduit and all this stuff will fit.
To stop ac noise on the CT's, we ran them in their own conduit and then they share a nipple with the pv wire into the inverter, but with the cables mentioned above all being battery related, I don't think this is a problem, but I don't know.

The communication wire is a problem. The 48VDC cables are not power-limited and you cannot install them with the communications cabling. In practical terms, induced current on the communications cables could cause failure of the circuits on either end.

If it was just isolated contacts you were monitoring it would be fine, but not for the serial comms.

 

[zanydroid]

No parallel plans at this time. Just a single battery. Does that change your response?

Well you always need to derate for 4-6 CCC. I don’t think there are combinations of neutral balance current that can avoid it.

I thought perhaps you were doubling up 2/0 for battery feed to optimize the conduit fill. In that case it’s not exactly double because of the derate.

 

[Gotshocked!]

The communication wire is a problem. The 48VDC cables are not power-limited and you cannot install them with the communications cabling. In practical terms, induced current on the communications cables could cause failure of the circuits on either end.

If it was just isolated contacts you were monitoring it would be fine, but not for the serial comms.

If this is correct, it's a huge bummer because it's already in the conduit and I'll have to redo it and find another way to run this comm cable.
I'm going to ask SS on Monday to verify this.
Either way, thank you for the reply and I hope you're wrong.

Does this information make a case for or against me?

Can I run CAT6 FTP cables parallel to electrical cable in the same conduit?

Can I run CAT6 FTP cables beside to electrical cable (220v 1 amp) in same PVC Trunking ?

diy.stackexchange.com

https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-stan...ds/list-of-codes-and-standards/detail?code=70
Article 300 - General Requirements for Wiring Methods & Materials 300.3(C)(1) Conductors of different systems 1000 volts or less
Conductors of ac & dc circuits rated to 1000 volts nominal or less, shall be permitted to occupy the same equipment wiring enclosure, cable, or raceway. All conductors shall have an insulation rating equal to at least the maximum circuit voltage applied to any conductor within the enclosure, cable, or raceway.

• So first off there is no NEC code prohibiting you from doing so. If there is then someone should specifically reference it. No one has in any of the responses here. Any many of the responses are downright poor.
• of logical importance: occupy the same enclosure, cable, or raceway; If you believe some nec code prohibits from doing what was asked then that would also have to mean when current carrying conductors didn't ALL operate at the same [nominal] voltage then we would have separate conduits for 120v vs 208v vs 240v vs 480v. That is not the case. Per 300.3c1 everything being less than 1000 volts it's simply the minimum wire insulation rating has to be observed.
• Cat5e and cat6 and any other Ethernet cable is all rated to 300v. I believe RG-6 coax is as well. If you find a specific brand with inking saying to 600v then great even better but i don't think they exist.
• https://www.mysouthwire.com/medias/...duct-specifications/hd8/h0c/8858069565470.pdf
• All romex (nm-b) and any pull wire like thhn is all rated to 600v. For any U.S. household which is usually 240 volt and below you basically have nothing to worry about with regards voltage and hazards. Only if your 600v rated romex was being used for 480v then you would not be able to run a cat6 cable in same enclosure, because the cat6 cable insulation is only rated to 300v.
• as for signaling and quality of over the CAT 5e/6/7 or RG-6 cable, there is no hazard once the insulation requirements are met. At most if it is signaling for something important, to some legally required system or emergency system as called out in NEC section 7 then it would be reasonable to not run your cat 5/6/7 or rg-6 in same conduit because the system that goes to is that important. but the NEC is not concerned about your xfinity and internet signal quality.
• the running of cat5/6/7 or rg6 next to romex and/or wire in conduit is blown way out of proportion. If it were anywhere close to true then every commercial network closet with a rats nest of cat5e UTP all run intertwined and velco strapped with 120v and 240 power cables to equipment would not work. They work just fine.
• it is the twists per inch that differentiates cat 5 vs cat6 vs cat7 and not necessarily cable shielding. There is UTP (unshielded twisted pair) and STP (shielded twisted pair) which is independent of CAT-#.
• the best way to go in any event is with STP (or FTP) or quad-shield coax. But with FTP or STP you have to use the corresponding metal rj45 connectors to maintain the shielding. Or you can just buy a 100' STP pre-made cat6 cable. Likewise with coax simply use RG6 quad shield. Either of which, having a 300v insulation rating, is thus permitted to be run alongside your 120v or 240v wires in your conduit. You would then really only need to worry about conduit fill. for cat6 @ 1gbps I think u would be fine but if you're wanting to do a long run at 10Gbe speeds then I would definitely do FTP or STP.

 

[hyperlite1604]

View attachment 174755

Didn't fix it unfortunately... Can you confirm these settings are the same on your end under the "Uart Settinig"? Gotta love the spelling...

 

[Zapper77]