diy solar

diy solar

EG4 6000XP Released, ordered. Let's Go!

An interlock kit is fine enough as long as the inverter is providing enough power for all the loads. Otherwise you would have to power off some of your circuits to get the load down. I agree - a better idea is to use a transfer switch to be able to switch specific circuits between grid power and inverter power at will.

I would like to do a transfer switch but haven't gotten that far yet. In the meantime I'm using an off-grid (mostly) panel to power specific things, but with an interlock kit to be able to switch all the loads in the panel from the inverter to grid power for those times I need to take down my off-grid system for changes, maintenance, etc.

Just so we are clear, perhaps I mis-understand . . . We drop a 30A breaker or something off the main panel into the grid lugs on our inverter which are designed to take over, if the inverter can't cut it, and then we are going to come off the load lugs from this same inverter and wire back to the main panel with an interlock that cuts off the grid and you think that's "fine"? At best you just created a potential strangely looped path. At worst you cross phases on the inverter and short the mess.

For starters I think you would need a double gang interlock one for the feed in / feed out from the inverter, and another for the inverter/grid, that are all tied. I foresee releasing the "Magic Smoke" if one is not extremely careful. Making seriosly complicated cabling & switching sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. Make sure all your breakers are quality units and working properly. You will also want to make sure you keep your L1/L2 wires properly banded or color coded so you don't get anything crossed, or you could create a phasing issue.

So you CAN do it, but I wouldn't if you are using grid pass-thru on the inverter. If not I'd run a separate transfer switch for the critical loads panel, one feed primary from the inverter, secondary from the grid, and another transfer switch at the main panel primary from the grid, secondary from the inverter. At which point you might ask, will the inverter actually handle both by itself? At which point you might ask, then why not just have a single transfer switch and run everything out of the main panel? Or peel the main panel feed directly to the inverter.

What am I missing?
 
Just so we are clear, perhaps I mis-understand . . . We drop a 30A breaker or something off the main panel into the grid lugs on our inverter which are designed to take over, if the inverter can't cut it, and then we are going to come off the load lugs from this same inverter and wire back to the main panel with an interlock that cuts off the grid and you think that's "fine"? At best you just created a potential strangely looped path. At worst you cross phases on the inverter and short the mess.

For starters I think you would need a double gang interlock one for the feed in / feed out from the inverter, and another for the inverter/grid, that are all tied. I foresee releasing the "Magic Smoke" if one is not extremely careful. Making seriosly complicated cabling & switching sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. Make sure all your breakers are quality units and working properly. You will also want to make sure you keep your L1/L2 wires properly banded or color coded so you don't get anything crossed, or you could create a phasing issue.

So you CAN do it, but I wouldn't if you are using grid pass-thru on the inverter. If not I'd run a separate transfer switch for the critical loads panel, one feed primary from the inverter, secondary from the grid, and another transfer switch at the main panel primary from the grid, secondary from the inverter. At which point you might ask, will the inverter actually handle both by itself? At which point you might ask, then why not just have a single transfer switch and run everything out of the main panel? Or peel the main panel feed directly to the inverter.

What am I missing?
You are correct that an interlock kit that allowed the main panel to either be powered by the grid or by the inverter would effectively preclude the ability to do pass-thru (or to even pull power from the grid for charging as-needed. So yeah, you wouldn't also want to provide power from the same panel back to the AC input on the inverter or you would create a strange loop. I guess I confused the scenario ?
 
If cost wasn't a factor, 18Kpv all day.
Need redundancy, go with 2 or 3 6000xp
2-6000XPs only need 1 parallel cable.
I just finished 1 hour full load and grid fallback overload testing.
Nice setup. I’ve decided to go with the 2 6000xp’s and with the savings get a third PowerPro battery. That cost equals out to about the same.
My system is completely off-grid with no future reality where there will be grid connectivity. I figure why pay for the grid-tie features the 18kPv offers if I’ll never use them.

By the time these products ship it’ll be at least a month or two and I’m hoping by then there will be more people posting about these inverters paralleled.
18Kpv and powerpro make a very clean install.
That’s the downside of the 6000xp’s. Along with the extra space they take up.
 
How can it go head to head with the 6500ex when it's been sunset?

The video mentions needing a 5/16" drill bit and going 2" deep for the expansion bolts but it appears to show drilling into drywall and attaching with screws... (I put my newb following youtube hat on for that one)
How can you clamp the PV to ensure it's less than 17 amps if the AC and DC breakers are off?
How many watts does each burner on the stove pull?... That's a 6kw standard dryer? 240V or 120V air compressor? I really question that test. Impressive if legit.
For your next video you should have a pip showing energy use during the test.

I must say it has some nice features for the price point. I really hope it succeeds and is available for years to come.

When you decide to release a 12kw or greater single unit I'll gladly fully abuse it for you.
 
How can it go head to head with the 6500ex when it's been sunset?

The video mentions needing a 5/16" drill bit and going 2" deep for the expansion bolts but it appears to show drilling into drywall and attaching with screws... (I put my newb following youtube hat on for that one)
How can you clamp the PV to ensure it's less than 17 amps if the AC and DC breakers are off?
How many watts does each burner on the stove pull?... That's a 6kw standard dryer? 240V or 120V air compressor? I really question that test. Impressive if legit.
For your next video you should have a pip showing energy use during the test.

I must say it has some nice features for the price point. I really hope it succeeds and is available for years to come.

When you decide to release a 12kw or greater single unit I'll gladly fully abuse it for you.
That air compressor is 120v with a 5.5hp motor on it. I use it in R&D its what i call a inverter killer. If it can start that its ready for America baby
 

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In the video, "Like the 18k" ?
They don't sell an 18k.
It's confusing enough for the customers. They really should know their own products.
 
Overall, the video on these units was impressive. Even in single mode, didn't see any surge dip in the lights with compressor then dryer running.
 
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