how many feet? that plus size of pipe will determine CFM and pressure requirements. but if you are talking 120' or more then a soft start grundfos to a above ground tank might be in your future. especially if you can fill the tank during peak sun hours.
Most of the wells around me are 300 to 400 ft. Four inch casing is the most likely scenario. I can't see drilling a 2" well that deep but I'll see what the well driller recommends. The water table here varies a lot so I'm not even going to guess. I did one of these many decades ago and put a 2" pipe inside the casing then a 1/2 inch pipe inside that for the air. The water table wasn't very deep and it put up a great head of water. Then just a holding tank, pump and pressure tank on the surface. There are some downsides though. The holding tank is hard to keep clean so probably some kind of chloring injection system. And they can be noisy if close to the house. Mine would be on the other side of the shop.
I was assuming either a 4" or 6" casing and a 2" up-pipe with a check ball on the bottom to keep water going back down after pump shuts off. after that it depends upon your depth and a lot of other variables... note I am not a driller, but we drilled a couple in the 80's at my parents houses in rural Indiana. most f them were 120-150' depth to reach the "good water"
The US is huge, my home state of Wyoming is bigger than the entire UK and thusly, food preferences are regional, much how Europe is, I’m sure.I thought deep fried food is REALLY popular in the states ?
I guess we don't know the meaning of out in the sticks lol , I live what is considered very rurally in the UK .... Within 20mins drive I've got 20 shops , hardware stores, restaurants, cafes, fast food places, a small airport . It's hard to imagine just how big America is
Great fun they work best on kerosene (heating oil ?? ) not sure what you call it
Have you seen the afterburner controller the guy from Australia makes , well worth the money
Visit the American West sometime. My father’s cattle ranch.
This place had a 6 inch well but has been capped or filled with concrete. The story I got was they were getting a lot of fine sand so they capped it. It sucks because I could have likely put a compressor rig on it and a pressure tank and pump on the surface and negated the sand issue. As far as I know there's no way to recover it, especially it it's concrete all the way to the bottom.
I've talked about doing that very thing and just never seem to get around to it. You're right - nothing to lose but a little time. It sure would be sweet if I could recover the thing. Worst case scenario I would have water for livestock and gardens, and in a jam I could always filter it and drink it if there's any problem. I suspect other then being hard and the sand there's nothing actually wrong with the water. I'm gonna do that. But maybe on a cooler day than today. I'm thinking October the way things have been here lately.
What really helps is if the feed water is already piping hot. Most days we end up with excess solar, and it gets dumped into the hot water heater first until maxed out (and finally to A/C in summer, heat pump in winter). Since there's a fairly lengthy pipe between the HWH and dishwasher, we open the hot water spigot and wait for the scalding 140ºF water to arrive before starting the dishwasher.
You're not wrong, and I'm sure it helps that our HWH is a hybrid. But I'm pretty comfortable with running A/C overnight in 3 bedrooms, as well as running a load of dishes on battery. Still typically wake up with at over 50% SoC. We never use the heated dry function, though!
I don't see how. The water is either heated by the water heater, or it's heated by the dishwasher, or a bit of both. Either way it'll be the same energy demand to raise a given volume of water to a given temperature.
Just run the dishwasher at the same time, it's no different. You either dump it directly or indirectly.
If a hybrid water heater is being used, it would be more efficient than a heating coil in the dishwasher. It would depend on the COP of the water heater.
I always open the hot water tap at the sink before starting the dishwasher so that the fill water is as hot as possible. But beyond that I had not really put much thought into the function of the machine.
The difference is the flexibility of a buffer--a dump load is there to absorb energy on demand, and in this case, give it back later when needed. When the hybrid heat pump is taken into consideration, my hot water heater effectively functions as a 8 kWh battery that only "costs" 2kWh to charge.
It's easy to forget that we're sharing a global forum. In the US, dishwashers are connected to hot water supply lines. When I lived abroad, I had to un-learn the hot water line purge step, and also remember to regularly add salt (!!).
In our house, it's used daily, at minimum. If my back-of-napkin estimate is close, we probably save close 0.5-1 kWh per load. It's also nice to cut down on those large current spikes.
Care to share details of your wood-fired boiler setup? I'm impressed that you manage to run a dishwasher in winter in your location!
probably an OWB setup... outdoor water boiler. just a wood stove on steroids with a heat transfer loop in the middle of it.
That is true. We have a big push for heat pump water heating here.
We have been using a Tarm (made in Denmark) indoor wood gasification boiler with a 4500L buffer tank for almost 20 years. Rebuilt parts of the refractory at the beginning of the last heating season. That's something they don't tell you about.
