few questions about solar power....

[corporal_Canada]

summary to date (in case it helps),

The battery I linked to him was a 12v100ah LiFePO4 (100amp BMS) assuming that is what he actually bought and what he is actually receiving. If you go back to his history of posting in two other threads you can see pictures of his whole setup before he fried the 12vSLA battery he started with. I also linked a 12v50ah version but it was 3/4ths the cost of the 100ah and I suggested he get the better one.

His is: Solar panels -> PWM -> battery -> inverter.

He fried the SLA (AGM) from overcharge/overvoltage because he didn't have the PWM in there and just had the panels connected to the battery in parallel. The model number of that is somewhere in the first couple of pages. The PWM in question is the one you see copied a thousand times and misquoting the specs all over the place.

The panels claim to be 100watts, but from the size I would guess they are more like 25watts. Somewhere on the second page he took pictures of the backs of them but I think the stickers are just fabrications based on size or they are the most efficient panels on the planet.

This assumes he has obtained a new inverter that is more than $4usd and has a hope of performing to 1/2 the rated value. This inverter is labeled as 1000w but is red hot when running with no load so is a hazard. He has fried several of these so far since august.

If you look at the earlier threads pictures you will see that the wires seems to be to small for the job and the lug crimps seem to be done with a pair of regular pliers with no boots or shielding with way to much insulation stripped back. Also, there are no fuses anywhere in the line of this.

He is in the Philippines and has spotty grid power. His laptop and monitor is from Canada from what I can tell so that is the voltage/frequency he needs to run. He would also like to run a small compressor type fridge if power is availible for that. None of this is intended as grid tie so consider it off-grid and not inspected.

What he really wants is just to be told what he needs and how to hook it up without learning all the ins and outs of solar or electricity. And to do this as cheap as possible.

well hey thanks for coming back, i thought you had quit on me... yes you linked a 12v lfp battery even though everyone is scolding me for thinking about using lfp...so i WILL order the 12v sla batter that mr gmxnow linked, priced at 12,000 php... i dont mind easing off the groceries for a short while..... i just need to know if each individual solar panel needs its own charge controller or can i just jam all 3 solar panels into 1 charge controller ? and im sorry but i dont know what PWM is, can you please clarify

 

[robbob2112]

The lfp is the same price and you won't fry it as easy. It also has more than twice the usable capacity and 3 times the charge rate.

It makes no sense to get the SLA

 

[corporal_Canada]

Which battery did you order? Link please? SLA is sealed lead acid which is what you started with. If it is the battery I recommended it is LiFePO4.

ummm.. 12v SLA one that gmxnow linked.. i will try to post a photo, however, not ordered just yet... yes and thank you for recommending me the LFP battery but it is difficult to keep up with 20 different opinions and people abandonning this thread because i am trying to have money for food and other things.. yes i may be stubborn and cheap, but isnt everyone ?

 

[robbob2112]

well hey thanks for coming back, i thought you had quit on me... yes you linked a 12v lfp battery even though everyone is scolding me for thinking about using lfp...so i WILL order the 12v sla batter that mr gmxnow linked, priced at 12,000 php... i dont mind easing off the groceries for a short while..... i just need to know if each individual solar panel needs its own charge controller or can i just jam all 3 solar panels into 1 charge controller ? and im sorry but i dont know what PWM is, can you please clarify

PWM - pulse width modulations -

Not having it allowed all of that through even when you SLA was fully charged and ruined it.

• With a PWM controller, the current is drawn out of the panel at just above the battery voltage, whereas
• With an MPPT solar charge controller the current is drawn out of the panel at the panel “maximum power voltage” (think of an MPPT controller as being a “smart DC-DC converter”)

So if the battery is at 13.0 volts and the solar panels have higher voltage the PWM controller flips the output off and on rapidly so to the battery it appears to to be just enough higher to provide a charge current.


For MPPT it doesn't matter what the panel voltage is the controller will convert to the maximum current and voltage to charge the battery. Power equals current times voltage which means maximum current transfered.

More to it, but that is the summary.

 

[robbob2112]

ummm.. 12v SLA one that gmxnow linked.. i will try to post a photo, however, not ordered just yet... yes and thank you for recommending me the LFP battery but it is difficult to keep up with 20 different opinions and people abandonning this thread because i am trying to have money for food and other things.. yes i may be stubborn and cheap, but isnt everyone ?

I get It, and everyone is trying to help but they muddy your issues because they haven't taken the time read and understand all your posts and your situation.

@Hedges is a good one to listen to once he gets what you need. And I am sure he will pipe up if he disagrees with anything I say. There are others as long as they stay on topic and don't want to totally redesign and start over.

Ok, long post - read it all and think about it - ask any questions -

If you will stick with me I will stick with you. When I give up is when you keep changing what you are doing and not listening to the advice that applies specifically to you. People do tend to ramble.

If you need to save up just get what you can and hook nothing up yet.


Order this battery - looks like the 12v150ah version is cheapest for some reason. Make sure to select it. There are also 12v100ah and two 24v versions on the same page.

lifepo4 battery 12v 100ah/12v 150Ah & 24v 100ah/24v 150Ah/48v 100ah | Lazada PH

battery for solar panel 12v 100ah. lithium batteries 12v for solar. sinopoly lifepo4 battery 90ah. lithium battery 12v for solar. lithium ion battery 12v 200ah. Lithium iron phosphate battery is characterised by outstanding durability, current performance and charging speed. It also has a longer...

www.lazada.com.ph

Order this fuse - it will keep you safe - not ideal but the best I could find on the site - you want the 80amp version. If you don't get a spare you will want to get one in future. You don't need the holder again, just a replacement fuse.

Samurry 40/60/80/100A Car Audio Fuse Power Fuse Holder 30-150a Stereo Audio Single Way Agu Fuse Holder | Lazada PH

MINIFRUT. heavy duty fuse holder for car. 2 way power distribution block. motorcycle fuse box with fuse. farad capacitor for car audio. parametric equalizer 12v sale. Brand new and high quality. Allows to use one power wire to have protective circuits. Helps to protect the device from over...

www.lazada.com.ph

This is a future purchase - don't order now. - it will replace the PWM controller so you can get more power from the sun into your battery.

PowMr MPPT 20A/30A/40A Solar Charger Controller 12V/24V Solar Panel Voltage Regulator | Lazada PH

PowMr. snadi inverter 1kw 12v on sale. solar panel set home full set. mppt controller with inverter. snadi solar charge controller. epever mppt charge controller. Model POW-Keeper1220(20A POW-Keeper1230(30A POW-Keeper1240(40A). Type MPPT. Rated voltage: 12/24V Auto. System voltage: 12/24V...

www.lazada.com.ph

This is probably what you should have to pay for a small inverter --- I am not saying buy this -- just an example - it does 800watts continuous which would cover your computer, monitor, and fridge

SGBSB Inverter 12v/24v To 110v/220v Pure Sine Wave Inverter 12v 220v 1000W 1600W DC To AC Portable Auto Converter Car Solor Inverter SGSWG | Lazada PH

Note: (1)12V inverter can only connect to 12V batteries (working voltage range: 10.5V~15.5V), 24V inverter can only connect to 24V batteries (working voltage range: 19.5V~28V). (2)When using the inverter, the power of the electrical appliance shall not exceed the continuous power of the...

www.lazada.com.ph

Questions section:
Here is a diagram of what I think you should should be going for. I did put in the 80amp fuse, but I didn't put in any fuses on the solar panel lines. what questions do you have about it?

Three solar panels all wired individually down to the PWM. The pluses and minuses will be grouped and insert into the panel holes.

PWM wired to the battery negative post and the fuse holder. The positive wire should have a fuse in it, but dunno what size until you post a picture.

Inverter wired to the negative battery post and the fuse holder.

The idea is all the power in and out of the battery will have to go through the 80 amp fuse. Once you post a picture of the PWM charge controller we can size the fuse for that.

Your panels say 400watt by sunpower, but from the earlier discussion they appear to be to small. I think someplace you measured the physical size, can you repost or dig it out of the chain and repost. To help figure that out, assuming you still have wires from the roof connected to them measure the voltage open circuit across them. As in with them not attached to anything, setting to DC and start with the range at the highest setting and bring it down until you get a reading. Now, ideally we would measure the short circuit current but if the panel puts out more than your meter can handle it would damage it. Take a picture of your panels and post it. Just as close as you can get without risking life. Of the top as they lay.

And I just had an idea, take the wires from one panel and touch them to a regular incandecnt bulb. If they are what I think you will get a weak glow. If they are anywhere near what they are marked you will get a bright glow.

What size wire and connectors do you have on hand? Can you lay it across a ruler and post a picture? For the wires to the panels each should have its own pair and somewhere from 14 to 10awg. For the wire to the inverter it should be 4awg. 4awg should have wires in it that are about as big around as a regular pencil or just a bit smaller around than your pinky finger. Ideally this will be battery or welding wire so that the wires that make up the bundle are fine like hairs on your head, well almost.

Also take a picture front and back of your PWM so we can see it. It should look like this or similar

10A 20A 30A PWM Solar Charge Controller 12V/24V Battery Regulator Solar Panel Controller LCD Display with Dual USB Port | Lazada PH

XIPIN. Solar Panel 10000Watts Complete Set for Home: Environmentally friendly, non-toxic, anti-aging, and long lifespan. Solar Set Package with Inverter and Battery: Including li-ion batteries, solar charger, usb cable, etc. (battery not included), built-in high-efficiency lithium battery, it...

www.lazada.com.ph

Don't hook it up until we have pictures

 

[corporal_Canada]

I get It, and everyone is trying to help but they muddy your issues because they haven't taken the time read and understand all your posts and your situation.

@Hedges is a good one to listen to once he gets what you need. And I am sure he will pipe up if he disagrees with anything I say. There are others as long as they stay on topic and don't want to totally redesign and start over.

Ok, long post - read it all and think about it - ask any questions -

If you will stick with me I will stick with you. When I give up is when you keep changing what you are doing and not listening to the advice that applies specifically to you. People do tend to ramble.

If you need to save up just get what you can and hook nothing up yet.


Order this battery - looks like the 12v150ah version is cheapest for some reason. Make sure to select it. There are also 12v100ah and two 24v versions on the same page.

lifepo4 battery 12v 100ah/12v 150Ah & 24v 100ah/24v 150Ah/48v 100ah | Lazada PH

battery for solar panel 12v 100ah. lithium batteries 12v for solar. sinopoly lifepo4 battery 90ah. lithium battery 12v for solar. lithium ion battery 12v 200ah. Lithium iron phosphate battery is characterised by outstanding durability, current performance and charging speed. It also has a longer...

www.lazada.com.ph

Order this fuse - it will keep you safe - not ideal but the best I could find on the site - you want the 80amp version. If you don't get a spare you will want to get one in future. You don't need the holder again, just a replacement fuse.

Samurry 40/60/80/100A Car Audio Fuse Power Fuse Holder 30-150a Stereo Audio Single Way Agu Fuse Holder | Lazada PH

MINIFRUT. heavy duty fuse holder for car. 2 way power distribution block. motorcycle fuse box with fuse. farad capacitor for car audio. parametric equalizer 12v sale. Brand new and high quality. Allows to use one power wire to have protective circuits. Helps to protect the device from over...

www.lazada.com.ph

This is a future purchase - don't order now. - it will replace the PWM controller so you can get more power from the sun into your battery.

PowMr MPPT 20A/30A/40A Solar Charger Controller 12V/24V Solar Panel Voltage Regulator | Lazada PH

PowMr. snadi inverter 1kw 12v on sale. solar panel set home full set. mppt controller with inverter. snadi solar charge controller. epever mppt charge controller. Model POW-Keeper1220(20A POW-Keeper1230(30A POW-Keeper1240(40A). Type MPPT. Rated voltage: 12/24V Auto. System voltage: 12/24V...

www.lazada.com.ph

This is probably what you should have to pay for a small inverter --- I am not saying buy this -- just an example - it does 800watts continuous which would cover your computer, monitor, and fridge

SGBSB Inverter 12v/24v To 110v/220v Pure Sine Wave Inverter 12v 220v 1000W 1600W DC To AC Portable Auto Converter Car Solor Inverter SGSWG | Lazada PH

Note: (1)12V inverter can only connect to 12V batteries (working voltage range: 10.5V~15.5V), 24V inverter can only connect to 24V batteries (working voltage range: 19.5V~28V). (2)When using the inverter, the power of the electrical appliance shall not exceed the continuous power of the...

www.lazada.com.ph

Questions section:
Here is a diagram of what I think you should should be going for. I did put in the 80amp fuse, but I didn't put in any fuses on the solar panel lines. what questions do you have about it?

Three solar panels all wired individually down to the PWM. The pluses and minuses will be grouped and insert into the panel holes.

PWM wired to the battery negative post and the fuse holder. The positive wire should have a fuse in it, but dunno what size until you post a picture.

Inverter wired to the negative battery post and the fuse holder.

The idea is all the power in and out of the battery will have to go through the 80 amp fuse. Once you post a picture of the PWM charge controller we can size the fuse for that.

Your panels say 400watt by sunpower, but from the earlier discussion they appear to be to small. I think someplace you measured the physical size, can you repost or dig it out of the chain and repost. To help figure that out, assuming you still have wires from the roof connected to them measure the voltage open circuit across them. As in with them not attached to anything, setting to DC and start with the range at the highest setting and bring it down until you get a reading. Now, ideally we would measure the short circuit current but if the panel puts out more than your meter can handle it would damage it. Take a picture of your panels and post it. Just as close as you can get without risking life. Of the top as they lay.

What size wire and connectors do you have on hand? Can you lay it across a ruler and post a picture? For the wires to the panels each should have its own pair and somewhere from 14 to 10awg. For the wire to the inverter it should be 4awg. 4awg should have wires in it that are about as big around as a regular pencil or just a bit smaller around than your pinky finger. Ideally this will be battery or welding wire so that the wires that make up the bundle are fine like hairs on your head, well almost.

Also take a picture front and back of your PWM so we can see it. It should look like this or similar

10A 20A 30A PWM Solar Charge Controller 12V/24V Battery Regulator Solar Panel Controller LCD Display with Dual USB Port | Lazada PH

XIPIN. Solar Panel 10000Watts Complete Set for Home: Environmentally friendly, non-toxic, anti-aging, and long lifespan. Solar Set Package with Inverter and Battery: Including li-ion batteries, solar charger, usb cable, etc. (battery not included), built-in high-efficiency lithium battery, it...

www.lazada.com.ph

Don't hook it up until we have pictures

okay yes yes THAT is the 12,000 peso battery, i didnt realize that it is LFP...and i dont need a charge controller for this ? just jam all the pos and negative of all the all 3 solar panels into the mppt and im good ? no fire no eveil voodoo man knocking at my door.. and of course i wont forget the fuse...
will post a video of my setup as soon as i stop being naked... ...the cable used to extend the reach of only 1 solar panel is regular appliance cable.. because it sais 300 or 400 watts but would almost never produce anything above 200watts.......it is the same thickness as a cable going to my hot water kettle...
i hope that isnt too concerning...

i just want this to power a UPS that i ONLY have a pc/monitor/modem and refridgerator connected to, as long as possible or ONLY during daylight hours....

and i tested the pc wattage... 100 to 111.. monitor 27.. fridge sat at 65 watts, did not see any surge whatsoever

 

[robbob2112]

okay yes yes THAT is the 12,000 peso battery, i didnt realize that it is LFP...and i dont need a charge controller for this ? just jam all the pos and negative of all the all 3 solar panels into the mppt and im good ? no fire no eveil voodoo man knocking at my door.. and of course i wont forget the fuse...
will post a video of my setup as soon as i stop being naked... ...the cable used to extend the reach of only 1 solar panel is regular appliance cable.. because it sais 300 or 400 watts but would almost never produce anything above 200watts.......it is the same thickness as a cable going to my hot water kettle...
i hope that isnt too concerning...

i just want this to power a UPS that i ONLY have a pc/monitor/modem and refridgerator connected to, as long as possible or ONLY during daylight hours....

and i tested the pc wattage... 100 to 111.. monitor 27.. fridge sat at 65 watts, did not see any surge whatsoever

Need you to answer the questions about your panels before you do anything else. Pictures, size, voltage measurements. I saw the link in one of the other threads. That doesn't really say much since the ad was for 150 to 400watt panels. But over here those ebay ads with the same specs and pictures will land you with 30 to 100 watt panels.

The panels in your videos look like they might be either dispite the labels.

If they really are that low a wattage you will never recoup your daily usage without more/bigger panels.

 

[corporal_Canada]

I get It, and everyone is trying to help but they muddy your issues because they haven't taken the time read and understand all your posts and your situation.

@Hedges is a good one to listen to once he gets what you need. And I am sure he will pipe up if he disagrees with anything I say. There are others as long as they stay on topic and don't want to totally redesign and start over.

Ok, long post - read it all and think about it - ask any questions -

If you will stick with me I will stick with you. When I give up is when you keep changing what you are doing and not listening to the advice that applies specifically to you. People do tend to ramble.

If you need to save up just get what you can and hook nothing up yet.


Order this battery - looks like the 12v150ah version is cheapest for some reason. Make sure to select it. There are also 12v100ah and two 24v versions on the same page.

lifepo4 battery 12v 100ah/12v 150Ah & 24v 100ah/24v 150Ah/48v 100ah | Lazada PH

battery for solar panel 12v 100ah. lithium batteries 12v for solar. sinopoly lifepo4 battery 90ah. lithium battery 12v for solar. lithium ion battery 12v 200ah. Lithium iron phosphate battery is characterised by outstanding durability, current performance and charging speed. It also has a longer...

www.lazada.com.ph

Order this fuse - it will keep you safe - not ideal but the best I could find on the site - you want the 80amp version. If you don't get a spare you will want to get one in future. You don't need the holder again, just a replacement fuse.

Samurry 40/60/80/100A Car Audio Fuse Power Fuse Holder 30-150a Stereo Audio Single Way Agu Fuse Holder | Lazada PH

MINIFRUT. heavy duty fuse holder for car. 2 way power distribution block. motorcycle fuse box with fuse. farad capacitor for car audio. parametric equalizer 12v sale. Brand new and high quality. Allows to use one power wire to have protective circuits. Helps to protect the device from over...

www.lazada.com.ph

This is a future purchase - don't order now. - it will replace the PWM controller so you can get more power from the sun into your battery.

PowMr MPPT 20A/30A/40A Solar Charger Controller 12V/24V Solar Panel Voltage Regulator | Lazada PH

PowMr. snadi inverter 1kw 12v on sale. solar panel set home full set. mppt controller with inverter. snadi solar charge controller. epever mppt charge controller. Model POW-Keeper1220(20A POW-Keeper1230(30A POW-Keeper1240(40A). Type MPPT. Rated voltage: 12/24V Auto. System voltage: 12/24V...

www.lazada.com.ph

This is probably what you should have to pay for a small inverter --- I am not saying buy this -- just an example - it does 800watts continuous which would cover your computer, monitor, and fridge

SGBSB Inverter 12v/24v To 110v/220v Pure Sine Wave Inverter 12v 220v 1000W 1600W DC To AC Portable Auto Converter Car Solor Inverter SGSWG | Lazada PH

Note: (1)12V inverter can only connect to 12V batteries (working voltage range: 10.5V~15.5V), 24V inverter can only connect to 24V batteries (working voltage range: 19.5V~28V). (2)When using the inverter, the power of the electrical appliance shall not exceed the continuous power of the...

www.lazada.com.ph

Questions section:
Here is a diagram of what I think you should should be going for. I did put in the 80amp fuse, but I didn't put in any fuses on the solar panel lines. what questions do you have about it?

Three solar panels all wired individually down to the PWM. The pluses and minuses will be grouped and insert into the panel holes.

PWM wired to the battery negative post and the fuse holder. The positive wire should have a fuse in it, but dunno what size until you post a picture.

Inverter wired to the negative battery post and the fuse holder.

The idea is all the power in and out of the battery will have to go through the 80 amp fuse. Once you post a picture of the PWM charge controller we can size the fuse for that.

Your panels say 400watt by sunpower, but from the earlier discussion they appear to be to small. I think someplace you measured the physical size, can you repost or dig it out of the chain and repost. To help figure that out, assuming you still have wires from the roof connected to them measure the voltage open circuit across them. As in with them not attached to anything, setting to DC and start with the range at the highest setting and bring it down until you get a reading. Now, ideally we would measure the short circuit current but if the panel puts out more than your meter can handle it would damage it. Take a picture of your panels and post it. Just as close as you can get without risking life. Of the top as they lay.

And I just had an idea, take the wires from one panel and touch them to a regular incandecnt bulb. If they are what I think you will get a weak glow. If they are anywhere near what they are marked you will get a bright glow.

What size wire and connectors do you have on hand? Can you lay it across a ruler and post a picture? For the wires to the panels each should have its own pair and somewhere from 14 to 10awg. For the wire to the inverter it should be 4awg. 4awg should have wires in it that are about as big around as a regular pencil or just a bit smaller around than your pinky finger. Ideally this will be battery or welding wire so that the wires that make up the bundle are fine like hairs on your head, well almost.

Also take a picture front and back of your PWM so we can see it. It should look like this or similar

10A 20A 30A PWM Solar Charge Controller 12V/24V Battery Regulator Solar Panel Controller LCD Display with Dual USB Port | Lazada PH

XIPIN. Solar Panel 10000Watts Complete Set for Home: Environmentally friendly, non-toxic, anti-aging, and long lifespan. Solar Set Package with Inverter and Battery: Including li-ion batteries, solar charger, usb cable, etc. (battery not included), built-in high-efficiency lithium battery, it...

www.lazada.com.ph

Don't hook it up until we have pictures

about your diagram, why is the inverter also going to the battery output of the charge controller ?

 

[robbob2112]

about your diagram, why is the inverter also going to the battery output of the charge controller ?

The inverter should connect across the battery. The charge controller should connect across the battery. The fuse and wire to the positive post is as close as you can come. Ordinarily I would recommend a MRBF and holder directly to the post but I couldn't find one on the website.

 

[Hedges]

okay yes yes THAT is the 12,000 peso battery, i didnt realize that it is LFP...and i dont need a charge controller for this ? just jam all the pos and negative of all the all 3 solar panels into the mppt and im good ? no fire no eveil voodoo man knocking at my door.. and of course i wont forget the fuse...

You most certainly need a charge controller.
Battery should already have a BMS, as last line of defense against over- and under-charge. But SCC must charge to correct voltage then stop, or drop to a float voltage.

For Lithium even more than lead-acid, there is a problem if SCC FETs fail shorted. That will apply PV voltage directly to battery. Voc is too high for BMS to block, so BMS FETs will fail too. Battery will over-charge and vent smelly toxic flammable gas.

Most people just use whatever SCC an don't worry or even know about it.
Some SCC are AC coupled (HF transformer), so if FETs fail they put out zero instead of Voc. I know of one or two expensive ones. Don't have a good idea of what cheap ones do.
One of my more expensive SCC has a relay output that says, "Save ourselves, for I have failed!" It is recommended we use that to disconnect array before battery is ruined.

 

[robbob2112]

okay yes yes THAT is the 12,000 peso battery, i didnt realize that it is LFP...and i dont need a charge controller for this ? just jam all the pos and negative of all the all 3 solar panels into the mppt and im good ? no fire no eveil voodoo man knocking at my door.. and of course i wont forget the fuse...
will post a video of my setup as soon as i stop being naked... ...the cable used to extend the reach of only 1 solar panel is regular appliance cable.. because it sais 300 or 400 watts but would almost never produce anything above 200watts.......it is the same thickness as a cable going to my hot water kettle...
i hope that isnt too concerning...

i just want this to power a UPS that i ONLY have a pc/monitor/modem and refridgerator connected to, as long as possible or ONLY during daylight hours....

and i tested the pc wattage... 100 to 111.. monitor 27.. fridge sat at 65 watts, did not see any surge whatsoever

The cable from the roof is probably to small if the panels were actually what the labels say. Way to small.

Pictures of everything before you buy anything at this point.

 

[robbob2112]

You most certainly need a charge controller.
Battery should already have a BMS, as last line of defense against over- and under-charge. But SCC must charge to correct voltage then stop, or drop to a float voltage.

For Lithium even more than lead-acid, there is a problem if SCC FETs fail shorted. That will apply PV voltage directly to battery. Voc is too high for BMS to block, so BMS FETs will fail too. Battery will over-charge and vent smelly toxic flammable gas.

Most people just use whatever SCC an don't worry or even know about it.
Some SCC are AC coupled (HF transformer), so if FETs fail they put out zero instead of Voc. I know of one or two expensive ones. Don't have a good idea of what cheap ones do.
One of my more expensive SCC has a relay output that says, "Save ourselves, for I have failed!" It is recommended we use that to disconnect array before battery is ruined.

He has a PWM, but a cheap one once he posts pics of it we know more. From the video he took it looks like the panels are either 30 or 60 watts


If his panels are really that small they won't run a laptop

 

[ohmboy]

...and if you see a nude french Canadian in any reflection..

Where?

 

[corporal_Canada]

You most certainly need a charge controller.
Battery should already have a BMS, as last line of defense against over- and under-charge. But SCC must charge to correct voltage then stop, or drop to a float voltage.

For Lithium even more than lead-acid, there is a problem if SCC FETs fail shorted. That will apply PV voltage directly to battery. Voc is too high for BMS to block, so BMS FETs will fail too. Battery will over-charge and vent smelly toxic flammable gas.

Most people just use whatever SCC an don't worry or even know about it.
Some SCC are AC coupled (HF transformer), so if FETs fail they put out zero instead of Voc. I know of one or two expensive ones. Don't have a good idea of what cheap ones do.
One of my more expensive SCC has a relay output that says, "Save ourselves, for I have failed!" It is recommended we use that to disconnect array before battery is ruined.

sooo 3 solar panels > charge controller > mppt > lfp battery ?
and please no need to use so many acronyms.. i feel dumb enough as it is

 

[corporal_Canada]

He has a PWM, but a cheap one once he posts pics of it we know more. From the video he took it looks like the panels are either 30 or 60 watts


If his panels are really that small they won't run a laptop

no but they will keep juice flowing INTO my ups and that is all i need
if each solar panel produces 100 watts at LEAST, i am golden...

 

[corporal_Canada]

Where?

Jesus, calm down cowboy

 

[corporal_Canada]

The inverter should connect across the battery. The charge controller should connect across the battery. The fuse and wire to the positive post is as close as you can come. Ordinarily I would recommend a MRBF and holder directly to the post but I couldn't find one on the website.

that didnt clear up anything, how about i just stick the battery clamps (alligator clips) to the battery ?
sorry the clamps of the inverter to the terminals of the battery.. nothing else...

 

[corporal_Canada]

The cable from the roof is probably to small if the panels were actually what the labels say. Way to small.

Pictures of everything before you buy anything at this point.

the cable i used to extend the reach of just 1 solar panel was thicker than what it came with

 

[corporal_Canada]

The cable from the roof is probably to small if the panels were actually what the labels say. Way to small.

Pictures of everything before you buy anything at this point.

havent purchased anything apart from the bms that wont be used since the battery you linked CLAIMS to have a built in BMS, but living here since april 2023 has driven me to be skeptical about anything coming from china...

 

[robbob2112]

havent purchased anything apart from the bms that wont be used since the battery you linked CLAIMS to have a built in BMS, but living here since april 2023 has driven me to be skeptical about anything coming from china...

Ok, pictures and diminsuions of your panels please. Try for good pics that fill the frame on the camera. Must be clear so we can see the cells in it to identify what they appear to be.

Measure the voltage with them disconnected, preferably one at a time if you can do it without embracing the roof so passionately that it makes your girlfriend jealous.

 

[Hedges]

sooo 3 solar panels > charge controller > mppt > lfp battery ?
and please no need to use so many acronyms.. i feel dumb enough as it is

No need for both "charge controller" and "mppt"; those refer to the same thing.

MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) is a function of, and circuitry in, a charge controller. So long as the charge controller is actually MPPT, not PWM (Pulse Width Modulation).

(Don't be fooled by cheap lightweight SCC with the letters "MPPT" printed on it. It will be more expensive and heavier.)

Most AIO (All In One) inverters include PV inputs and have MPPT SCC built in.

 

[corporal_Canada]

Ok, pictures and diminsuions of your panels please. Try for good pics that fill the frame on the camera. Must be clear so we can see the cells in it to identify what they appear to be.

Measure the voltage with them disconnected, preferably one at a time if you can do it without embracing the roof so passionately that it makes your girlfriend jealous.

there is only 1 girl in my life and that is my 11 yr old daughter that lives on an island nearby....... but if weather permits i will try going on the roof tomorow before noon,

PS: quick question, would it be so bad if i buy 4 rectangular cells of 3.2v ? and use i dunno 3 or 4 bus bars to link all the studs ? as long as i use a bms, i should be safe no ? and before you say "i quit" again.. this method will only run me 4000-5000 allowing me to repeat the process again... and have ANOTHER 4 cells making another 12v battery.... instead of 12,500 on a store bought batt as you put, i need to learn to do this eventually, why not do it now and rip it off like a bandaid ? with all your help here, i can take steps NOT to recreate the halifax explosion that led to the atomic bomb.... strictly hypothetically, i understand most of the fundamentals of DC, Can you really give me a reason NOT to try this.. and there is no need to say "huge ass fire" as an example....

 

[corporal_Canada]

No need for both "charge controller" and "mppt"; those refer to the same thing.

MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) is a function of, and circuitry in, a charge controller. So long as the charge controller is actually MPPT, not PWM (Pulse Width Modulation).

(Don't be fooled by cheap lightweight SCC with the letters "MPPT" printed on it. It will be more expensive and heavier.)

Most AIO (All In One) inverters include PV inputs and have MPPT SCC built in.

so ton confirm...
solar panels (all 3) > 1 mppt > bms > lfp battery..... >inverter...... (holding breath)

 

[robbob2112]

there is only 1 girl in my life and that is my 11 yr old daughter that lives on an island nearby....... but if weather permits i will try going on the roof tomorow before noon,

PS: quick question, would it be so bad if i buy 4 rectangular cells of 3.2v ? and use i dunno 3 or 4 bus bars to link all the studs ? as long as i use a bms, i should be safe no ? and before you say "i quit" again.. this method will only run me 4000-5000 allowing me to repeat the process again... and have ANOTHER 4 cells making another 12v battery.... instead of 12,500 on a store bought batt as you put, i need to learn to do this eventually, why not do it now and rip it off like a bandaid ? with all your help here, i can take steps NOT to recreate the halifax explosion that led to the atomic bomb.... strictly hypothetically, i understand most of the fundamentals of DC, Can you really give me a reason NOT to try this.. and there is no need to say "huge ass fire" as an example

Building custom batteries is an art all unto itself. There are way to many ways to go wrong with it that end in flames. From all of your posts and pictures in other threads you aren't there yet.

If there a solar or camping or RV store in your nearest large town? If so can you go there and physically look at the batteries prior to buying one?

The battery I linked will weigh about 1/2 the SLA battery you were using before. So if you handle one that appears to be that same weight but says it is LFP you KNOW it is falsely marked.

 

[robbob2112]

so ton confirm...
solar panels (all 3) > 1 mppt > bms > lfp battery..... >inverter...... (holding breath)

That is the correct design plan.

Right now you have a PWM verse MPPT solar charge controller. So the first step is to identify your solar panels and see what they actually are. If they are as small as I think the MPPT would work for now.



And I hate to muddy the waters but there is an alternative - If this isn't something you are interested in talking over just say and we stick wih the current design.

crappy grid electric -> LFP charger -> LFP batttery -> inverter -> all your stuff

Basically it would be a high powered UPS but at 1/2 or less the cost of a high power UPS. I use something similar for my server and desktop computer for work. It will run them + my two huge monitors for 4+ hours.