Grounding

[timselectric]

Yes, it has the bonding screw in the ground bar that screws into the panel box itself

The screw is provided separately. And must be installed by the installer if needed.
The bonding screw hole is empty in your picture.

 

[Mikemills]

Your socket tester is indicating a fault of either a hot ground or hot neutral. It would suggest that you need to supply a ground in to the AC in of your inverter.

What would be the best way to do that?

 

[Mattb4]

What would be the best way to do that?

Making some assumptions. One that your AIO bonds ground when operating in inverter mode and that your ground at the Load panel is good to a ground rod (panel not NG bonded) you could simply jumper AC out ground and AC in ground together at inverter.

 

[Mattb4]

Well darn I should have looked at your panel a bit longer instead of going off on the ground stuff. The panel is 240vAC split phase. You have the AIO L1 going into only one pole of the 240vAC main breaker. This would leave one half of all the panel breakers un-powered.

Now it makes sense why your socket tester only showed a red light lit but no other indication. This was due to power flowing NG but no power from L. It should have shown nothing (no lights lit) if you had proper NG bond.

ETA: BTW make sure that everything is properly wired. That panel is of a type I am not familiar with and it looks to have the ground lug practically touching the main breaker. Not a design I would want.

 

[Mikemills]

Your socket tester is indicating a fault of either a hot ground or hot neutral. It would suggest that you need to supply a ground in to the AC in of your inverter.

My grounding rod is 28” deep and I have it fastened with a couple pipe clamps. Is it maybe not deep enough

 

[Mikemills]

Well darn I should have looked at your panel a bit longer instead of going off on the ground stuff. The panel is 240vAC split phase. You have the AIO L1 going into only one pole of the 240vAC main breaker. This would leave one half of all the panel breakers un-powered.

Now it makes sense why your socket tester only showed a red light lit but no other indication. This was due to power flowing NG but no power from L. It should have shown nothing (no lights lit) if you had proper NG bond.

ETA: BTW make sure that everything is properly wired. That panel is of a type I am not familiar with and it looks to have the ground lug practically touching the main breaker. Not a design I would want.

I’ll have to get a new box

 

[timselectric]

My grounding rod is 28” deep and I have it fastened with a couple pipe clamps. Is it maybe not deep enough

The ground rod doesn't ground your system.
The N/G bond does.
The ground rod connects the earth to your grounding system.

 

[SunDave]

I'm no ecoworthy inverter expert, so just take this as a suggestion, but isn't that a 120 volt inverter? You have a split panel, so even if that did work, 1/2 of your circuits would not work on that subpanel. So it just makes sense that some of your outlets would not work.

I know I pointed it out before and don't mean to beat on the drum, but I wouldn't be too fixated on a ground issue until you step back and evaluate the basics of the setup.

 

[Mattb4]

My grounding rod is 28” deep and I have it fastened with a couple pipe clamps. Is it maybe not deep enough

Minimum ground rod depth is 8ft although some localities require 2 connected rods of 8ft depth. If you encounter bedrock Trenching and burial is sometime permitted. So yes your rod is not deep enough. You also should use a proper ground rod clamp and wire lug.

The purpose of the ground rod is safety. All metal electrical panels must be attached to your grounding system.

 

[Mikemills]

I have a second inverter to run in parallel to give me the other leg of the main breaker. I’m going to install that then redo my ground rod. From all the great feedback I got I think this should solve most issues. Thanks for all you’re help everyone

 

[Mikemills]

I'm no ecoworthy inverter expert, so just take this as a suggestion, but isn't that a 120 volt inverter? You have a split panel, so even if that did work, 1/2 of your circuits would not work on that subpanel. So it just makes sense that some of your outlets would not work.

I know I pointed it out before and don't mean to beat on the drum, but I wouldn't be too fixated on a ground issue until you step back and evaluate the basics of the setup.

Setting up second unit for split phase output should solve that issue? What do you think

 

[SunDave]

Setting up second unit for split phase output should solve that issue? What do you think

Depending on the exact model of that inverter, I believe you can set it up that way. Check the manual that came with that unit, or check online for a manual for the exact same model number.

But yes, it may support it.

 

[Mikemills]

Setting up second unit for split phase output should solve that issue? What do you think

Depending on the exact model of that inverter, I believe you can set it up that way. Check the manual that came with that unit, or check online for a manual for the exact same model number.

But yes, it may support it.

No, it definitely does. I bought the two units for the split phase output, so I do have the correct box. I just have to finish setting up the other inverter I believe.

 

[Mikemills]

No, it definitely does. I bought the two units for the split phase output, so I do have the correct box. I just have to finish setting up the other inverter I believe.

Thanks to everyone that gave helpful feedback. I now have all the issues worked out am grateful for all the help. Up and running a full capacity. It really helps when you put the right mode code in the inverter lol