I am so happy

[HOU_Castle]

I'm sorry... What wire are you referring to ?

When you purchase an inverter, some inverter suppliers supply cable/wire to be connected from battery terminals to the inverter terminals.
Those cables/wires need to be sized correctly or you will end up with fire hazard. Plus, you need to install breaker to prevent from burning the inverter wires/cables.

 

[corporal_Canada]

I'm asking this because I don't know if it's different when using 220v appliances... The heftiest thing I got is a Panasonic refrigerator 410 watts or 0.41kw an hour... And a 600 watt AC on its way to me now, but I'm curious if these numbers include the power surge when turning it on.. and is that figure all evened out ? Some 500watt Aircons have a surge of 800watts for 5 seconds or more....I've already figured out that each battery holds 1250. Watts roughly.

12v and CLAIMS to be 100AH...
Also says 20HR but I'm not familiar with that

 

[HOU_Castle]

I'm asking this because I don't know if it's different when using 220v appliances... The heftiest thing I got is a Panasonic refrigerator 410 watts or 0.41kw an hour... And a 600 watt AC on its way to me now, but I'm curious if these numbers include the power surge when turning it on.. and is that figure all evened out ? Some 500watt Aircons have a surge of 800watts for 5 seconds or more....I've already figured out that each battery holds 1250. Watts roughly.

12v and CLAIMS to be 100AH...
Also says 20HR but I'm not familiar with that

All these appliances ratings are not covering power surge. What they have is normal operation rating. What kind of battery is this? LiFePO4? Lead acid? etc?
If your appliances utilize 220V, this 12V-100Ah battery won't be enough to handle power surge and normal usage wattage (both refrigerator and AC). What is your inverter spec? Please do power audit before buying stuff, you will end up spending more money for less.

 

[HOU_Castle]

All these appliances ratings are not covering power surge. What they have is normal operation rating. What kind of battery is this? LiFePO4? Lead acid? etc?
If your appliances utilize 220V, this 12V-100Ah battery won't be enough to handle power surge and normal usage wattage (both refrigerator and AC). What is your inverter spec? Please do power audit before buying stuff, you will end up spending more money for less.

Read the below link about cable/wire to use between battery n inverter n fuse/breaker to use....

What wire gauge to use?

Hi all, My name is Sam and I could use your help determining the appropriate wire gauge for my power station. I am working on a portable power station with the following specs: 200Ah lifepo4 battery 2000w inverter Atm, I am only concerned with the wire that will go from the: battery > fuse...

diysolarforum.com

 

[corporal_Canada]

When you purchase an inverter, some inverter suppliers supply cable/wire to be connected from battery terminals to the inverter terminals.
Those cables/wires need to be sized correctly or you will end up with fire hazard. Plus, you need to install breaker to prevent from burning the inverter wires/cables.

Thank you, haven't gotten into breakers yet but I will definitely do that thank you, can 12v batteries overpower the inverter?? I only plan to link them through parallel

 

[corporal_Canada]

Read the below link about cable/wire to use between battery n inverter n fuse/breaker to use....

What wire gauge to use?

Hi all, My name is Sam and I could use your help determining the appropriate wire gauge for my power station. I am working on a portable power station with the following specs: 200Ah lifepo4 battery 2000w inverter Atm, I am only concerned with the wire that will go from the: battery > fuse...

diysolarforum.com

Yup.. the inverter CLAIMS 6000 watts but has like 20 awg wires for each terminal.. thanks China

 

[corporal_Canada]

Read the below link about cable/wire to use between battery n inverter n fuse/breaker to use....

What wire gauge to use?

Hi all, My name is Sam and I could use your help determining the appropriate wire gauge for my power station. I am working on a portable power station with the following specs: 200Ah lifepo4 battery 2000w inverter Atm, I am only concerned with the wire that will go from the: battery > fuse...

diysolarforum.com

So sorry I skipped over that 1 question... The battery sais lead acid.. I doubt I can afford li-on battery at this junction


Only cost me 60$cad, shipping included

 

[HOU_Castle]

So sorry I skipped over that 1 question... The battery sais lead acid.. I doubt I can afford li-on battery at this juction

For lead acid battery, you can't use more than 50% of its capacity, unless you want to destroy the battery in short term. So, if your battery is rated 100Ah, then you can use it up to 50Ah. You need to run power audit. In my opinion, your planned system is too small to run your appliances (refrig, AC, TV, lights, etc.).

 

[corporal_Canada]

An oncoming cyclone forced me to relocate to tacloban (big city), managed to grab everything though, and I ordered a 700 watt "sine wave inverter... The 1000watt+ never arrived, and I hear the Ac chugging away.. I hear all my money flying out the window...I'm still trying to find out the wattage of the AC but I'm guessing it's 500-700, I shouldnt have to pay for this

 

[robbob2112]

A low frequency inverter will have much better surge capacity than your cheap high frequency one. Especially if it is designed like any of the victron phoenix models. They really do surge to 3 times rated output because they have a large torid coil inside.

Of course that will cost you more than you want.

Your experiment sounds to me like a good way to start a fire, but to each thier own.

The inverter should never be more than warm to the touch at rated capacity for continuous watts, or it is undersized.

If it gets hot just sitting idle but plugged in you are tempting fate. Does it at least have a fuse on either end?

 

[JRH]

corporal_Canada said:
I will do that, mind you, there is no ON switch to this inverter, it did cost me only 4$ after all, thank you China I'm going to proceed by doing this experiment in just a moment, I woke up but an hour ago and need to go get my cafe... Coffee sorry and a pack of cancer sticks





The scary thing is the $4.00 price tag.

That is Scary….what scarier is that it actually sells…

 

[corporal_Canada]

That is Scary….what scarier is that it actually sells…

yup... did replace it with another, however it has mandarin in front of it... it claims to be sine wave and 1000 watts but.... the mandarin in front is enough to make me second guess that.... but it did power my crappy laptop for 10 or so hours... so.. it can handle the 70-100 watts that the power brick indicates.... so there is hope....

 

[robbob2112]

Here is the setup I am using on my CPAP and it will also power a full sized samsung fridge from 5 years ago no problem.

Energy sticker on the fridge said 755kWh/year. That means it consumes 86.19 watts per hour. Which means on this hardware it would run 12 hours if I stop when the battery has 10% still in it. If I play it safer and stop at 20% left I have 10.7 hours use. Those numbers assume it is running all the time, but it does cycle on and off so I think it would run much longer. My cpap cycles and uses between 30 and 80watts as it runs so it is similar. With that I can get 3 ~ 4 nights use. So 27~36hrs. I need to plug the fridge into the kill-o-watt meter and see what it actually uses.

For the wire - 12v - 1000w = 83amps max = 6awg or 4 depending on the wire. I used welding wire with 105c rating.

It costs more than your setup and includes a few extra items.

LiTime 100ah mini LiFePO4 - 1280Whrs - 15000 cycles - (10+ years use) 19lbs - battery - $298
LiTime 20A lifepo4 charger - $93
Blue Sea dual MRBF fuse holder - $33
100amp BUSS fuse - $18
30amp BUSS fuse - $16
Battery disconnect - $16
12v outlets - $9
LiTime battery monitor/shunt -$79
OMT connectors - $12/4pack - needed 2 so $6
windy nation wire - 6awg - 10ft - 105c welding wire - 111 amps max continuous- $32 - includes lugs
Victron Phoenix 12v 1.2kVA inverter - $334 (6w/hr standby consumption in non-eco mode- 2200w surge)

Total - $934

I already have a crimper so cut to length but could have ordered the wires pre-made for about $40 instead of buying the wire and doing it myself.

I realize this is far more than you wanted to spend, but there are some items that could be left out or a cheaper version built. This works for my purposes and it safe to run with all wires fused at the positive post and the smaller ones fused inline. My shortcut was the smaller Anderson style connectors that are only good to 50amps. I won't be drawing anything like that on the inverter for long enough to matter.

The huge factors to switch to LiFePO4 for you would be the weight of the battery, 19lbs verse 50+ lbs. DOD that is much higher, and a much longer lifespan with a much quicker charge if you have the panels.