I posted in wiring but maybe better here for my Rv.

[chrisski]

my battery bank is in the front of the trailer and the breakers are in the rear so that’s like 7x35ft of wire @ 6awg it’s going to be expensive

Wow. That sucks. No chance to move that? That is a significant distance for low voltages.

When I moved my battery bank, the original position had a 6 AWG cable, about 1’ long that carried 50 amps. I moved the batteries to 6’ away, and at 12 volts and 50 amps accepting a 3% loss, I needed to get 2 AWG cable. Quite a change with that 5 feet of difference.

That 50 amps I mention, really only gets maxed out when I’m using the leveling jacks.

 

[Whinny]

soow is an extension cord-it is not allowed in a permanent installation.
Up here PVC conduit can be used for protection of NMD/Romex-the conduit should be left open on both ends, not to be terminated in a box. If using individual conductors it must be terminated in a box. Romex is used in every RV I have ever worked on-and thats quite a few.
If you need that much #6 you really need to look at an external transfer switch-it attaches to your converter...

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[Azguy82]

Wow. That sucks. No chance to move that? That is a significant distance for low voltages.

When I moved my battery bank, the original position had a 6 AWG cable, about 1’ long that carried 50 amps. I moved the batteries to 6’ away, and at 12 volts and 50 amps accepting a 3% loss, I needed to get 2 AWG cable. Quite a change with that 5 feet of difference.

That 50 amps I mention, really only gets maxed out when I’m using the leveling jacks.

This is coming from my inverter so it’s 110v

 

[Azguy82]

soow is an extension cord-it is not allowed in a permanent installation.
Up here PVC conduit can be used for protection of NMD/Romex-the conduit should be left open on both ends, not to be terminated in a box. If using individual conductors it must be terminated in a box. Romex is used in every RV I have ever worked on-and thats quite a few.
If you need that much #6 you really need to look at an external transfer switch-it attaches to your converter...

WFCO Technologies - Innovating the Future of RV Power

WFCO Technologies is committed to simplifying, enhancing, and optimizing every RV owner’s experience through advanced power technology and proven support.

wfcoelectronics.com

The inverter has a built in transfer switch. So I have to run ac from the 50amp to the switch/charger... and the run from the inverter back to the panel. The directions say 8/6awg for that high of amps.
Its a magnum 3000w 12v for rv with the built in switch

 

[Whinny]

I'm just saying if the transfer switch was at the panel you would need fewer and smaller gauge conductors. What size is the existing romex?

 

[Azguy82]

I'm just saying if the transfer switch was at the panel you would need fewer and smaller gauge conductors. What size is the existing romex?

10/2 so it’s under sized from the installer.

trust me. I wish everything was closer.

 

[LucasD]

10/2 so it’s under sized from the installer.

trust me. I wish everything was closer.

Wow, yeah, that is a really weird setup. Then again, my experience with RVs is that their electrical systems rarely make any sense from an overall design efficiency perspective.

 

[Azguy82]

Ok so I’ve decided between
Individual 6awg wires in a liquid tight conduit
Or 2 runs of SOOW also 6awg.
It’s like 40 feet from my inverter to my 50amp/breakers so it’s a lot of copper but I’m not sure what else to do.
The inverter will typically only be pushing <30amps cause it’s a 3000w but I never actually pull 3000watts at a single prolonged period of time.
Do you think it’s better for the single wire/conduit or the SOOW for the run. Secured to the frame with hangers.
Have any of you done self tapping screws into your I beam?

 

[Cdkipp]

Self-tapping screws are how the underbelly is held up with both of my units. It is also how the large wire harness runs are located. The right way to do your job is to drop the underbelly and run SOOW that is how most manufacturers do it. If you don't want to do that then just do the soow run, that insulation is thick and it is much easier to work within Romex. Remember, this is an RV. There is nothing wrong with using soow or romex and running it in a PVC pipe for extra protection. It doesn't need to be liquid tight etc. The electrical code does not apply. Just make it safe. That sounds safe.

 

[Cdkipp]

Why two runs of soow?

 

[Azguy82]

Why two runs of soow?

AC from inverter to coach
50amp to the inverter for charging

I don’t have to make 2 runs but if I want charging then I need an in and out

 

[Azguy82]

Self-tapping screws are how the underbelly is held up with both of my units. It is also how the large wire harness runs are located. The right way to do your job is to drop the underbelly and run SOOW that is how most manufacturers do it. If you don't want to do that then just do the soow run, that insulation is thick and it is much easier to work within Romex. Remember, this is an RV. There is nothing wrong with using soow or romex and running it in a PVC pipe for extra protection. It doesn't need to be liquid tight etc. The electrical code does not apply. Just make it safe. That sounds safe.

My underbelly is held on with some stupid rivets. So I’d need to cut them and then self tap the underbelly back on. I might do that but it’s so much more work to drop it.

 

[Cdkipp]

AC from inverter to coach
50amp to the inverter for charging

I don’t have to make 2 runs but if I want charging then I need an in and out

That is what I did also. Two runs of soow.

 

[Azguy82]

That is what I did also. Two runs of soow.

How did you attach to the coach? Inside underbelly or mounted with hangers?

 

[HaldorEE]

Need some help with my wiring.

Need a cut off switch (or a couple) for my dc? Is my inverter wired correct to the shunt? Or should it be other side? It reads correct on the app for produced pv an

And need ideas for my ac.

The installer who helped me install (he was just ok) ran romex but had the wrong kind and needed 3 strands instead of two. Also I hate that it’s exposed. To be fair. I’ve never had an issue with it but I’m just begging for a short or fire with it exposed.
I was thinking pvc pipe to act as conduit? It’s run next to gas line. That can’t be that safe? But as long as it’s protected should that be fine? The LP pipe already has screws that I can use to attach my new pvc/conduit.
I don’t want to cut open my underbelly but I need to Re wire this AC. Also I have zero experience with ac but Can just follow what’s already installed and run new (better protected Romex) lines.

is pvc enough? Should I go with standard conduit? Should I figure out how to run in the underbelly? Did you run through your coach? I’m kinda lost

Thanks in advance.

Is that Romex solid core wire? If so I would replace it with stranded wire. Since this cable is physically exposed to damage my preference would be to use MC (metal armored) cable for the AC wiring. You can get this stuff pre-terminated (called whips) which makes them even easier to install.

Southwire 12/2 x 10 ft. Stranded CU MC (Metal Clad) Armorlite Modular Assembly Quick Cable Whip 58947701 - The Home Depot

Southwire Armorlite Type MC Quick Pre-cut Length Whips are suitable for branch, feeder and service power distribution in commercial, industrial, institutional and multi-residential buildings. They can

www.homedepot.com

This stuff would be even better since it is armored and water tight.

10/2C W/G Aluminum interlocked Armor AIA Copper Conductor Type MC Metal Clad PVC Jacket Control Cable

Also Known As: 10/2 Interlocked Armor Cable, 10/2 Aluminum Interlocked Armor Cable, 10/2 AIA Cable, 10/2 MC Cable, MC Wire, 10/2 Metal Clad Copper Wire, 10/2 Type MC Wire, 10/2 Control Cable, Industrial Cable, 10/2 PVC Jacket Wire, 10/2 Copper Conductor MC Cable, 10/2 Aluminum Armor MC Cable...

www.nassaunationalcable.com

You might also want to think about using liguid tight, flex conduit. Do not run Romex or jacketed cable inside conduit however, use individual conductors unless you derate their current. I am not an electrician (just an EE), so I won't tell you what size wire to use for romex inside conduit. I would just buy standard, 600V, individual, stranded electrical wire and pull it through conduit. This is the conduit I would use for pulling individual wires through as long as you don't exceed the fillage limit. If you are close then go to the next bigger diameter (3/4").

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/wiring_solutions/flexible_liquid-tight_electrical_conduit/flexible_jacketed_metallic_liquid-tight_conduit/atla-11-100?gclid=CjwKCAiAhbeCBhBcEiwAkv2cYwEKSvG8ckEK8x7wsaGMT2xKoElsNRiviuGaivish66vz2m_kD8XPhoCYccQAvD_BwE

 

[HaldorEE]

Just noticed you need 50A. Use this stuff. 6-AWG, metal armored 6/2 (Hot, Neutral, plus Ground).

6/2 Stranded Metal Clad MC Copper Conductor W/G 600V Aluminum Armored Cable

Specifications : Trade Size : 6-2 Stranded, Grounding Conductor AWG : 8, Length (feet) : Coil : 125’, Length (feet) : Reel : 500’, Approx. Weight/1000Feet (lbs.) : 370, Armor Minimum O.D. (inches) : 0.795. Standards : Cable Tray Rated, install per NEC®, RoHS Compliant, Made in USA of US and/or...

www.nassaunationalcable.com

The rubber jacketed MC cable only comes in 6/3 which means you would have a spare conductor.

6/3C W/G Aluminum interlocked Armor AIA Copper Conductor Type MC Metal Clad PVC Jacket Control Cable

Also Known As: 6/3 Interlocked Armor Cable, 6/3 Aluminum Interlocked Armor Cable, 6/3 AIA Cable, 6/3 MC Cable, MC Wire, 6/3 Metal Clad Copper Wire, 6/3 Type MC Wire, 6/3 Control Cable, Industrial Cable, 6/3 PVC Jacket Wire, 6/3 Copper Conductor MC Cable, 6/3 Aluminum Armor MC Cable, 6/3 Copper...

www.nassaunationalcable.com

 

[Cdkipp]

How did you attach to the coach? Inside underbelly or mounted with hangers?

In my case I was already attached to the coach as I have from the factory a soow run to the main box. In my case (I have a fifth wheel) I was able to do the runs to the relocated batteries, the inverters, and back to the box/subpanel by working in the interior compartment.

 

[Azguy82]

Just noticed you need 50A. Use this stuff. 6-AWG, metal armored 6/2 (Hot, Neutral, plus Ground).

6/2 Stranded Metal Clad MC Copper Conductor W/G 600V Aluminum Armored Cable

Specifications : Trade Size : 6-2 Stranded, Grounding Conductor AWG : 8, Length (feet) : Coil : 125’, Length (feet) : Reel : 500’, Approx. Weight/1000Feet (lbs.) : 370, Armor Minimum O.D. (inches) : 0.795. Standards : Cable Tray Rated, install per NEC®, RoHS Compliant, Made in USA of US and/or...

www.nassaunationalcable.com

The rubber jacketed MC cable only comes in 6/3 which means you would have a spare conductor.

6/3C W/G Aluminum interlocked Armor AIA Copper Conductor Type MC Metal Clad PVC Jacket Control Cable

Also Known As: 6/3 Interlocked Armor Cable, 6/3 Aluminum Interlocked Armor Cable, 6/3 AIA Cable, 6/3 MC Cable, MC Wire, 6/3 Metal Clad Copper Wire, 6/3 Type MC Wire, 6/3 Control Cable, Industrial Cable, 6/3 PVC Jacket Wire, 6/3 Copper Conductor MC Cable, 6/3 Aluminum Armor MC Cable, 6/3 Copper...

www.nassaunationalcable.com

wouldnt I want a 6/4 cause I need two hots, neutral and a ground?

 

[Cdkipp]

wouldnt I want a 6/4 cause I need two hots, neutral and a ground?

Yes, If you are 50 amp service that is two hots. You want 6/3 plus ground. Yf you are just running one of the legs from the main panel to a subpanel or the inverter then you would run 6/3 ----(6/2 plus ground)

 

[HaldorEE]

wouldnt I want a 6/4 cause I need two hots, neutral and a ground?

I believe you need 6/3 the ground is not normally included on the conductor count.