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Information Overload - Where do I start?:)

May the fun begin - Order placed for motor number one (Golden Motors). Motor, Controller, and some components for liquid cooling (not sure if they are the best but were affordable enough to take a chance).
Woohoo!! I'm still waiting for my motor to arrive, but the controller is here already. I didn't get a throttle or any other controls, so it'll take me longer to get the motor spinning for the first time. Gonna need a contactor, too, come to think of it...
 
Cool!
It’s fun to experiment with different components. You never always know what will corrode and some things did that shouldn’t have. I’ve had many happy accidents, but always had a fallback plan and for the what if’s. I always carried a response kit for leaks and flooding. It had a selection of hose clamps, mechanics wire, self tapping screws & driver, medium soft rubber square assortments, underwater sealants(works submerged) underwater epoxy putty, wood and foam tapered plugs. It was used many times but not on my own boat. A water alarm is mandatory! One primary that reports to the helm. Also it’s important know about it as early as possible so it’s easier to find the source. Just buy a 5 pack of water leak alarms from Amazon and place them throughout low in the hull where bilge water should never be. To reduce bilge water, use GTU Gore packing in the stuffing box. Learn the proper way to cut and stagger the seals. You may actually find it difficult adjust the nut to get the desired 1 to 2 drips per minute while underway. As long as the box or shaft doesn’t get warm, don’t worry about it being reduced to just weeping. Do “burp” the box after a haul out to get the air out of the shaft log, it does need water to lubricate. I don’t recommend “dripless” shaft seals, however if you already have one, have it inspected and make sure it’s in perfect condition. If it fails, it is catastrophic. You will need response kit containing a pipe wrench to stop the prop shaft from windmilling, a passenger car inner tube cut for a long wide strip of rubber and a roll of mechanics wire to staunch the flow by wrapping around the shaft/gland. For any boat, have at least two manual/automatic controled bilge pumps, each one appropriate for the size boat. Those things are the most unreliable devices I’ve ever seen so have two. Don’t mean to scare you, however if you’re ready for it, it’ll probably
Allot of good advise in this one, will definitely come back to it and work out my own little repair tool/material kit when I actually come to sail the boat, ha ha:)
 
In my case, the prop shaft ends in a coupler on a V-drive. I want to have to pullies forward of the thrust bearings so that I can swap belts without dismounting the prop shaft, so the solution I need to come up with is, I think, going to be a little unique for my setup.


View attachment 170814
Wow - not sure what is preferred, designing from scratch or modifying existing setup like you do. I guess you get allot for free when working with existing parts and maybe sometimes limitations, in a weird way, makes it easier to make decisions in how to move forward. I envy you in the sense that you will have a full combustion engine experience and after the swap the electric propulsion experience for the same vessel as will give you a great base for comparison. As soon as I have my motor I will start my design and looking forward to share ideas.
 
The documentation for the Kelly had detailed pinouts, and my questions to Kelly's email got useful answers. That's the biggest reason I chose them. A little more detail; They seem to do decent regen, and had a water-cooled option. Generally googling around seems to show the Kelly's are better built, but that's not something I can say super strongly myself (yet).
Checked their page out and must agree, jut by looking at images you get a more 'solid' feel in relation to both housing and ports when looking at the Kelly in comparison:

MC.png
Fingers crossed that both units will be fit for purpose:)
 
Wow - not sure what is preferred, designing from scratch or modifying existing setup like you do. I guess you get allot for free when working with existing parts and maybe sometimes limitations, in a weird way, makes it easier to make decisions in how to move forward. I envy you in the sense that you will have a full combustion engine experience and after the swap the electric propulsion experience for the same vessel as will give you a great base for comparison. As soon as I have my motor I will start my design and looking forward to share ideas.
I'm planning to get a new prop shaft and prop, the bigger cost is labour, so trying to save a >40yo 1-1/8th shaft seems penny-wise, pound foolish.

The 1400km trip home, mostly under diesel, was a hell of an experience, but it only redoubled my desire to convert. It's going to be quite the day when she moves under angry pixies for the first time!
 
Checked their page out and must agree, jut by looking at images you get a more 'solid' feel in relation to both housing and ports when looking at the Kelly in comparison:

View attachment 171469
Fingers crossed that both units will be fit for purpose:)
There's pros and cons to most all options, and rarely a "wrong" answer. Will be fun to compare notes though. :)
 
I'm planning to get a new prop shaft and prop, the bigger cost is labour, so trying to save a >40yo 1-1/8th shaft seems penny-wise, pound foolish.

The 1400km trip home, mostly under diesel, was a hell of an experience, but it only redoubled my desire to convert. It's going to be quite the day when she moves under angry pixies for the first time!
Jezz - 1400 km, that is a trip and a half. Is the main reason for changing the shaft/prop the dimensions or condition of them? I have seen props really old but in great nick (if made of copper).
 
Jezz - 1400 km, that is a trip and a half. Is the main reason for changing the shaft/prop the dimensions or condition of them? I have seen props really old but in great nick (if made of copper).
There's some wear around the cutlass bearing, and there's a hole drilled where a bolt goes through the v-drive coupler and acts like a thrust bearing. The new prop is unlikely to be the same angle/thread as the old prop, too. So given all that, starting fresh seems ideal. Also, the new prop is 17" vs 13" I have now, and it's designed for electric drive, and can do regen.
 
Hope project is
There's some wear around the cutlass bearing, and there's a hole drilled where a bolt goes through the v-drive coupler and acts like a thrust bearing. The new prop is unlikely to be the same angle/thread as the old prop, too. So given all that, starting fresh seems ideal. Also, the new prop is 17" vs 13" I have now, and it's designed for electric drive, and can do regen.
Hope building/project is going well. Finally received the first motor: [HPM10KL , 10KW BLDC Motor] , Liquid cooling , 48V and controller: [EZ-B481000 , EZKkontrol PMSM Controller with wiring harness , 48V1000A]. I have started to design the dual-motor housing. I am sure you have your own ideas around motor housing but just in case you can reuse parts of the designs I have done I will post .dxf files here of some of the 2D parts I am creating in QCAD (for laser cutting). I have started with the adapter rings that will be attached to the motor and later have 4 x M6 sliding pins to be used for belt tensioning (they are the M5 holes you can see). Left to do after that is to design rear plate, front plate, feet and side binders. - spoke to early, the forum does not allow upload of .dxf file so if you can do with the file then let me know and I will use drop box to get file to you. Thanks / Modular Hippo

Motor Adapter Ring.png
 
There's some wear around the cutlass bearing, and there's a hole drilled where a bolt goes through the v-drive coupler and acts like a thrust bearing. The new prop is unlikely to be the same angle/thread as the old prop, too. So given all that, starting fresh seems ideal. Also, the new prop is 17" vs 13" I have now, and it's designed for electric drive, and can do regen.
Hib Digimer, hope Christmas have been good and a Happy 2024 in advance!! Meant to ask you what propeller you went for, not had a chance to research this part so thought your choice was a good starting point:) - I have just ordered the pulleys for the motors and went for a Ratio: 1 : 1.3 (Example: Small Top does 10 RPM and as a result the larger bottom will do 7.8 RPM.). I wish I could back this up with a really good reason why went for 1 : 1.3 but the truth is that I took a middle road between some of the professional solutions I have come across and 'The Neds' setup where he is running against a direct drive (no gearing at all). I guess I will find out if I need to change this down the line, at least it will get me of the ground. Happy 2024!! // Modular Hippo
 
Hib Digimer, hope Christmas have been good and a Happy 2024 in advance!! Meant to ask you what propeller you went for, not had a chance to research this part so thought your choice was a good starting point:) - I have just ordered the pulleys for the motors and went for a Ratio: 1 : 1.3 (Example: Small Top does 10 RPM and as a result the larger bottom will do 7.8 RPM.). I wish I could back this up with a really good reason why went for 1 : 1.3 but the truth is that I took a middle road between some of the professional solutions I have come across and 'The Neds' setup where he is running against a direct drive (no gearing at all). I guess I will find out if I need to change this down the line, at least it will get me of the ground. Happy 2024!! // Modular Hippo
Happy new year!

I've not ordered it yet, but I am planning on getting the Brunton Autoprop Eco*Star 430mm (~17") prop. The max RPM is 1050, so looking at the motor's unloaded RPM of ~4000, I'll be looking at a 4:1 reduction. Of course, this might be too much, once loaded, but I'd rather start too slow. Once I'm in the water, I can see if the RPM is in fact too slow, and adust the gear ration easily enough. Given the cost of this prop, I am very very reluctant to take chances with cavitation chewing it up like swiss cheese.

Madi
 
Happy new year!

I've not ordered it yet, but I am planning on getting the Brunton Autoprop Eco*Star 430mm (~17") prop. The max RPM is 1050, so looking at the motor's unloaded RPM of ~4000, I'll be looking at a 4:1 reduction. Of course, this might be too much, once loaded, but I'd rather start too slow. Once I'm in the water, I can see if the RPM is in fact too slow, and adust the gear ration easily enough. Given the cost of this prop, I am very very reluctant to take chances with cavitation chewing it up like swiss cheese.

Madi
Happy New 2024! - Big thank you for pointing me in the right direction, amazing looking prop, but as you say it loos expensive. Against the peak efficiency talked about (48V | 4902.92 W (RPM: 4183) you should be pretty much spot on with your reduction. Looks like I should have done my math before ordering my pulleys. Regardless of input the RPM does not fluctuate to much (between 3400-4700), it seems to be the torque that is increasing. Knowing that a propeller has a max RPM should have been my starting point. Saying that, still allot of 'Unknowns' that will come to light when propeller is in water doing it's job - will stick to what I got and modify if needs be. Jezz - 'propeller cavitation', news to me and VERY good information, thank you for that!
 
Happy New 2024! - Big thank you for pointing me in the right direction, amazing looking prop, but as you say it loos expensive. Against the peak efficiency talked about (48V | 4902.92 W (RPM: 4183) you should be pretty much spot on with your reduction. Looks like I should have done my math before ordering my pulleys. Regardless of input the RPM does not fluctuate to much (between 3400-4700), it seems to be the torque that is increasing. Knowing that a propeller has a max RPM should have been my starting point. Saying that, still allot of 'Unknowns' that will come to light when propeller is in water doing it's job - will stick to what I got and modify if needs be. Jezz - 'propeller cavitation', news to me and VERY good information, thank you for that!
Note that the test RPMs are unloaded, I expect the loaded RPM to be lower. The quite I got for the 430mm (17") was £2,820.00, plus VAT and shipping. So it will be one of the single most expensive parts of the conversion, but it's the marine equivalent of "where the rubber meets the road", so if feels like it's one of the places to step up and pay the piper. Particularly in my case where regen is such an important part of my design.

I'm not sure if you know about my channel, (I think it was mentioned earlier), but I am pushing as hard as I can to be in the water as soon as I can this coming season. If I can get in, I've got a whole suite of tests planned. So depending on how your project progresses, I might be able to get some tests done in time to be useful for you and your project. :)
 
Note that the test RPMs are unloaded, I expect the loaded RPM to be lower. The quite I got for the 430mm (17") was £2,820.00, plus VAT and shipping. So it will be one of the single most expensive parts of the conversion, but it's the marine equivalent of "where the rubber meets the road", so if feels like it's one of the places to step up and pay the piper. Particularly in my case where regen is such an important part of my design.

I'm not sure if you know about my channel, (I think it was mentioned earlier), but I am pushing as hard as I can to be in the water as soon as I can this coming season. If I can get in, I've got a whole suite of tests planned. So depending on how your project progresses, I might be able to get some tests done in time to be useful for you and your project. :)
Seen a few episode and all great stuff!! Dipping in and out as and when I get a breather which is rear these days. Will definitely keep an eye on future episodes related to the topic. With my boat build running in parallel the cost of the prop is way out of my budget so will have to go on the 'in the future wish list'. Small steps:)
 
Seen a few episode and all great stuff!! Dipping in and out as and when I get a breather which is rear these days. Will definitely keep an eye on future episodes related to the topic. With my boat build running in parallel the cost of the prop is way out of my budget so will have to go on the 'in the future wish list'. Small steps:)
Totally understandable. That prop is painfully spendy.
 
Great topic about electric powered sailing boat. I'm in the same boat... well, I also refuse to burn fossil fuel in a sailboat anyhow.
I will keep an eye on your build Modular Hippo, but please add interesting pictures.

I'm still in the planning phase at the moment and I still wait for the perfect affordable, low rpm, 48V hub motor in the range of 12-15 kW who don't exist at the moment.
QS motor seem to have nice motors, but who work in the voltage range of 72-96V for the power I look at.
Here some good information about two boats. A 32fts who use the ''bicycle'' grin marine hub motor from Grin Technology and a 39 fts boat with HPEVs AC-34 motor.

Sailboat electric motor-1.JPG
 
Great topic about electric powered sailing boat. I'm in the same boat... well, I also refuse to burn fossil fuel in a sailboat anyhow.
I will keep an eye on your build Modular Hippo, but please add interesting pictures.

I'm still in the planning phase at the moment and I still wait for the perfect affordable, low rpm, 48V hub motor in the range of 12-15 kW who don't exist at the moment.
QS motor seem to have nice motors, but who work in the voltage range of 72-96V for the power I look at.
Here some good information about two boats. A 32fts who use the ''bicycle'' grin marine hub motor from Grin Technology and a 39 fts boat with HPEVs AC-34 motor.

View attachment 187701
Hi Yabert, great to meet you!! Tell us more about your project as interesting stuff!! I will definitely post more imagery etc. as soon as I get a breather:) I will at some point do some YouTube stuff but as it it stands my Laptop that I edit on is running like a three legged dog so need to sort that first:) - Am tracking some build on https://modularhippo.com/kiribati-36-build/ for my own sanity but a bit chaotic at the moment as not updated it for a while. I believe will hold some interesting data around cost etc. once done as tracking that on a penny level. Below is an example of tiller shaft and some related components.

Modular.png
 
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