Midnite Solar Announced their new 10kw AIO at Intersolar Today

[Brucey]

The Midnite Rosie, Barcelona and Hawkes Bay are designed and assembled in Washington state. The aio and the classic controllers are built in China I believe.

 

[Brucey]

The Rosie's brochure:

 

[starpower]

So I did just find out this morning that they'll be selling custom tablets made specifically to run only the MNS Pro app. It will have a direct Bluetooth connection to the inverter can be used as a touch screen. They already have these being built.

This is exactly what I was getting at! I really like this solution.

 

[starpower]

Software is an almost intractable problem.

"App", as in download from the iTunes store or Android equivalent?

What other hardware can run the app, and how can you get the software without a cell phone, account at huge "Be Evil" company, and working cellular service?

At least a WiFi or Ethernet connection and HTML served by the inverter can be connected to by many computers and browsers.

A USB port for keyboard and/or mouse should be all that is needed to select menu items on that built-in screen.

I agree that optionality is key. It cannot be confined to “app stores” or the like. And must fully work off-line!

 

[Brucey]

Split phase so I can run a mini split.

What size you thinking? I've had good luck with LG inverter 8000 btu window unit, couple of those should be less than 1kW

 

[Dave911]

@Dave911 can you expand this statement? Think many have opposing views and would be good to have this information.

Hi Chris
Its my belief after reading over hundreds of pages of text on this forum and elsewhere.
I would suggest doing a search on this forum for 18kpv and to start reading. Seriously.
Ive been working with industrial power and control equipment since the 70s, when I was 18.
Im now a contract engineer / programmer of industrial equipment. I have a lot of experience trying to make faulty equipment function properly. Im also pretty good at recognizing bad equipment.
Im not looking for a debate, and this message string is for the Midnite product anyway.
But seriously, the information is out there.

 

[42OhmsPA]

Where does it say Made in the USA? That label has specific legal requirements that I'm pretty sure it does not meet.

They also had the THD spec incorrect.

 

[Q-Dog]

What size you thinking? I've had good luck with LG inverter 8000 btu window unit, couple of those should be less than 1kW

I want to replace a 12000 btu window shaker with something quieter and more efficient. It is used mostly for power outages in our master bedroom, and to supplement the 1970s era central unit that we want to move and/or replace. I guess a 12k mini split would be enough, but maybe something a little bit bigger.

 

[Brucey]

I'd go with an inverter 12000 BTU unit, my 8000 is super quiet, no rattling or random noises. Of course it doesn't do heat for winter time, so potential big downside. There are non U shaped Midea window units that heat down to 41F.

 

[rhino]

Watching @Adam De Lay videos I am wondering how easy is it to replace something and/or what parts can actually be replaced? I can't tell if the solar charge controller is completely separate from everything else or the entire board has to be replaced? Do you have to literally remove every single wire from the unit in order to replace it?

 

[HighTechLab]

Watching @Adam De Lay videos I am wondering how easy is it to replace something and/or what parts can actually be replaced? I can't tell if the solar charge controller is completely separate from everything else or the entire board has to be replaced? Do you have to literally remove every single wire from the unit in order to replace it?

Literally everything can be replaced. The whole inverter can be torn down and rebuilt in about 2 hours for first timers.

 

[Dave911]

T

Literally everything can be replaced. The whole inverter can be torn down and rebuilt in about 2 hours for first timers.

Their serviceability approach is admirable.
Will there be parts stocked in the US?
I know industrial suppliers who tout having parts immediately available for overnight shipment.
Thats an excellent selling point.

 

[timselectric]

Any AIO can be disassembled and boards or parts replaced.
The only issues are parts availability and whether or not the warranty allows the customer to do it.
Hopefully, this is what the claim of easily field repairable means. And removes both issues.

 

[Dave911]

T

Literally everything can be replaced. The whole inverter can be torn down and rebuilt in about 2 hours for first timers.

Their serviceability approach is admirable.
Will there be parts stocked in the US?
I know industrial suppliers who tout having parts immediately available for overnight shipment.
That's an excellent selling point.
However, to make that work, the price of the unit has to be less than 2x a cheap unit, otherwise I can buy an entire unit as a spare.
For instance two SRNE ASP units wired in parallel vs The One. Actually I think I can buy 3 or more ASP units for the price of The One. But The One is very attractive. Obviously, its not all about price.

 

[rhino]

Any AIO can be disassembled and boards or parts replaced.

That's sort of what I wanted to know.. if you have to take everything apart to replace something or if it is actually designed better to make it easy. Do you have to remove all the wiring to all the breakers, inputs, outputs, etc to replace anything? Can you realistically expect an end-user to replace a part? It really looks like from the pictures I've seen you have to get under all those breakers to get access to the boards. Just wanting to know what makes it more serviceable than others.

 

[timselectric]

That's sort of what I wanted to know.. if you have to take everything apart to replace something or if it is actually designed better to make it easy. Do you have to remove all the wiring to all the breakers, inputs, outputs, etc to replace anything? Can you realistically expect an end-user to replace a part? It really looks like from the pictures I've seen you have to get under all those breakers to get access to the boards. Just wanting to know what makes it more serviceable than others.

I agree, and have no idea about this one.
I can remove all boards in mine without touching the terminals.
Hopefully there will be a video guide for repairing it.

 

[Banjoman]

I want to replace a 12000 btu window shaker with something quieter and more efficient. It is used mostly for power outages in our master bedroom, and to supplement the 1970s era central unit that we want to move and/or replace. I guess a 12k mini split would be enough, but maybe something a little bit bigger.

Lots of mini split options out there that will fit your requirement.. Pioneer, EG4, Mr. Cool etc.. pick one and roll. I did pioneer where I vacuumed down everything but if I was to do it again I'd probably get a pre-charged line set system.

 

[HighTechLab]

I am already working on stocking replacement parts. We intend to be able to overnight, just like we have been doing for SOK battery for almost 3 years now. Also allow purchase in advance so you can store them - possibly in an EMP protected enclosure if you are worried about that kind of thing. That’s a far safer and better protection than the competition.

 

[starpower]

First time I’ve seen a video of this in the flesh!

Midnite Powerflo 5 server rack style battery
(the Powerflo 16 wall mount is briefed)

 

[Halfcrazy]

I'm assuming the AC breakers built into The One do not have AFCI or GFCI? So you'd still need a sub panel with AFCI breakers for many installations if it would be inspected, correct?

That is correct they are just an AC breaker

 

[Steve777]

Thinking ahead about how I'd want to use The One, there is a change (actually a swap) of the relay controlled breakers which would suit my setup better. I won't be using AC coupling, but I was planning on putting in a second "load" panel with less critical loads. And my generator, (if it is ever used) will likely be a portable 30A or less one (yes, one with the dreaded handles and wheels).

Normally the 50A controlled breaker would go to the load panel and the 60A one would be reserved for generator input. However, I'd like to swap those breakers so as to get a few more amps in the load panel. I believe the CBs themselves are DIN mounted, so could be physically swapped, it would really come down to whether the relays feeding the 50A position can handle a 60A breaker in its place (or so I think). But there could also be FW limits which might come into play. Can someone familiar with the innards and FW of The One comment on this; possible or no? @Robin Gudgel @Halfcrazy

And another internal wiring question: I would guess that the four 120VAC breakers are fed from after the 100A main load breaker, and will loose power at the same time the inverter shuts down the main load power or that 100A breaker is opened. Or do they get fed from another place?


Thanks.

 

[Brucey]

Normally the 50A controlled breaker would go to the load panel and the 60A one would be reserved for generator input. However, I'd like to swap those breakers so as to get a few more amps in the load panel. I believe the CBs themselves are DIN mounted, so could be physically swapped, it would really come down to whether the relays feeding the 50A position can handle a 60A breaker in its place (or so I think).

Pretty sure you can assign the three smart breakers as needed for input/output, i.e you don't need to physically move them around.

 

[Adam De Lay]

Thinking ahead about how I'd want to use The One, there is a change (actually a swap) of the relay controlled breakers which would suit my setup better. I won't be using AC coupling, but I was planning on putting in a second "load" panel with less critical loads. And my generator, (if it is ever used) will likely be a portable 30A or less one (yes, one with the dreaded handles and wheels).

Normally the 50A controlled breaker would go to the load panel and the 60A one would be reserved for generator input. However, I'd like to swap those breakers so as to get a few more amps in the load panel. I believe the CBs themselves are DIN mounted, so could be physically swapped, it would really come down to whether the relays feeding the 50A position can handle a 60A breaker in its place (or so I think). But there could also be FW limits which might come into play. Can someone familiar with the innards and FW of The One comment on this; possible or no? @Robin Gudgel @Halfcrazy

2 of the 3 breakers can be configured for input or output but from the input standpoint, they're specifically assigned for something.
Smart Load 1 - 60A - Gen Input or Output
Smart Load 2 - 30A - Output only
Smart Load 3 - 50A - AC Coupling or Output

And another internal wiring question: I would guess that the four 120VAC breakers are fed from after the 100A main load breaker, and will loose power at the same time the inverter shuts down the main load power or that 100A breaker is opened. Or do they get fed from another place?

The supply for the 4, 15A breakers is taken from before the 100A AC Output so they're independent of that breaker. If you turn the inverter off, then that would stop power from flowing to those breakers but you can have it set up for different feeds without worrying that one breaker would turn off another.

 

[agtcovert]

Thinking ahead about how I'd want to use The One, there is a change (actually a swap) of the relay controlled breakers which would suit my setup better. I won't be using AC coupling, but I was planning on putting in a second "load" panel with less critical loads. And my generator, (if it is ever used) will likely be a portable 30A or less one (yes, one with the dreaded handles and wheels).

Normally the 50A controlled breaker would go to the load panel and the 60A one would be reserved for generator input. However, I'd like to swap those breakers so as to get a few more amps in the load panel. I believe the CBs themselves are DIN mounted, so could be physically swapped, it would really come down to whether the relays feeding the 50A position can handle a 60A breaker in its place (or so I think). But there could also be FW limits which might come into play. Can someone familiar with the innards and FW of The One comment on this; possible or no? @Robin Gudgel @Halfcrazy

And another internal wiring question: I would guess that the four 120VAC breakers are fed from after the 100A main load breaker, and will loose power at the same time the inverter shuts down the main load power or that 100A breaker is opened. Or do they get fed from another place?


Thanks.

Same generator for me. I had to roll it out last week. Nice thing is the wire's already run, I can likely remove the manual transfer switch/breakers.

With a generator input, would this not need a chargeverter? It'd be solely to keep batteries topped in my case.

Need to figure out how this would be wired up for what I want. This has some really interesting options.

Oy, when their batteries are ready, guess it's time to add to the national debt.

 

[timselectric]

With a generator input, would this not need a chargeverter?

Only if you need to isolate from the grid. (Avoid exporting)
Or a generator with crappie output.
Which is why we all have them.