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Solar/Battery/Grid system based on EG4 18KPV Powerpro

mciholas

Solar Enthusiast
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Indiana
I’m new to designing solar power systems, so I am hopeful to draw on the combined experience and wisdom of the group to review my proposed system design. My parents live in Sarasota, FL about 4 miles inland and are looking into installing grid attached solar and battery on their house.

Most of the motivation is to provide for a means for backup power during the numerous outages they experience, and, if necessary, provide backup power for days after a hurricane that has wiped out the grid in the area. Their house is of relatively recent build, with concrete walls, and they recently replaced all doors and windows with hurricane rated ones. Due to my father’s health issues, they cannot move or evacuate during such an event and must stay and ride it out (as they did with hurricane Ian in 2022, lost power for 30 hours, the house had only minor damage). Thus they want some form of emergency power.

They also suffer frequent and infuriating blink outs of power, just long enough to reset all the clocks and computers that aren’t on UPS units. They have UPS all over the house, about 12 of them, and the battery replacement chores and constant beeping when their batteries fail is annoying. Thus a system which has a very fast transfer time would be highly desirable so they can reduce or eliminate the UPS units all over the house.

Further, there is a general interest in generating their own power and being energy neutral if possible. Presently, they can get net metering with the utility, but that is under legislative threat. A system which is adaptable to the changing grid attach rules would be good.

They contacted a number of solar companies. The bids they have gotten seem outrageous to me, and/or include ridiculous lease agreements that turn them into indentured servants. The equipment being proposed won’t do things the way I think things should be done, for example, no solar power if the grid is down, which seems stupid.

So I am stepping in to see if I can design a system that will work for them, be lower cost, and be better performing. A design goal is to make the installation as simple as possible as well, so that some of it may be done ourselves. Having done a fair amount of research, I’ve come up with a system that I feel like does the job very well, but I’ve never done this before, so I might be wrong or miss details.

The inverter I have selected is the EG4 18KPV which looks like it does everything we need all in one box. We would couple that with batteries, either the EG4 Powerpro, or perhaps some server rack batteries instead. The solar panels would be about 400 watt units and a system size of about 12 KW. The other bids said we needed about 17.7 MWH generation to be neutral and a 11.3 KW system would do that.

Existing Service and Conditions

This is a retrofit installation for a house built about 30 years ago that only has grid power currently. The electric service is an outside meter that feeds 200 amp service to a QO main panel. The main panel has most of the heavy current users such as pool pump, pool heat pump, irrigation pump, 3.5 ton AC, 2 ton AC, dryer, stove, and heat pump water heater. There are a few normal 120 VAC branch circuits serving outlets and lights. I believe the main panel has 225 amp bus bars with a 200 amp main breaker.

There is an auxiliary panel that feeds from a main panel breaker and has the majority of the 120 VAC circuits that serve lights, outlets, etc.

On average they use about 1500 KWH per month. A significant part of that is the pool pump and AC. They use more power in the summer than in the winter due mainly to AC use.

They have a generously sized southern roof at about 20 degree angle (latitude 27 degrees), clay tile, with clear view of the sky. They used to have pool solar heater panels, but they proved problematic (always developing leaks) so those got removed but are visible in this picture:

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To give some scale, the pool solar array was 13 x 37 ft, the PV solar array can be larger. There are a clump of palm trees that shade the panels (evident in the above photo from late afternoon) but those will be removed. In the very late evening, a tree to the left does provide some shade, but the sun is quite far down by that time so likely not a major factor in energy production. The bids we got estimated the solar array would have about 4.3 “effective hours” per day. That is the yearly energy produced divided by 365 days divided by the array power rating. Specifically, 17,774 KWH per year with an 11.34 KW array. In my assessment, this seemed like a very good array site with high production per panel.

Here is one proposal array depiction using 28 panels, 11.48 KW system size. So there is plenty of roof available and the angle is quite good being only 7 degrees from the latitude and the roof within 7 degrees of perfectly south. The grid meter and power entrance is just under the lower right corner of this array, so the wiring will be short and easy.

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(Continued on next post)
 
Phase 0 - Planning

I have opted NOT to go for a whole house backup. I did this on the basis of extra cost (needing two inverters and that might be close even so) and the extra wiring complexity evident in the 18KPV install manual for dual inverters (like extra combiner panels). Besides cost, I don’t want the battery power being drained by the heavy power using items like pool pump and AC. It would be best if the system powers only the “small” circuits in the house and the battery lasts longer.

The first phase of the project is to carefully identify all the circuits in the two panels and what they do. From that list, we will develop a list of circuits that should be powered only when the grid is up (main panel) and those that should be powered by the grid or inverter (critical panel).

Once we have the full list of man and critical circuits, we can devise a layout plan for the breakers. We may find the auxiliary panel doesn’t have enough slots, in which case we will be prepared to replace it.

We will have a detailed breaker and panel layout design done prior to work.

Phase 1 - Circuit Segregation

The main panel remains in place with most of the heavy circuits. Since we don’t have to touch anything from the main breaker out to the meter, we can work entirely past the main breaker for this design. I consider that a big plus.

We pick some day when we have all the supplies, tools, and time, then we turn off the main breaker. We label all circuits carefully so we know where they go. If we have to increase the size of the critical panel, we remove all those circuits and install the new critical panel. It can be fed from the same breaker in the main panel as it is now. We pull critical circuits out of the main panel and put them into the critical panel. We pull main circuits out of the critical panel and put them in main.

My main worry here is that we may end up with the existing wires from some circuit being too short with the new layout. What is the best way to splice those circuits to make them longer?

Hopefully in a few hours we get the panels rewired. Now we can turn main power back on and everything should be back on the grid. All the main circuits in the main panel, all the critical circuits in the critical panel. In the breaker layout, we purposefully left the two upper right slots empty in the critical panel. More on this later.

So far, we have not done anything with the solar or battery system, just preparing the house wiring and getting the house back online.

Phase 2 - Inverter and Battery Install

Next to the electric panels, we intend to install one EG4 18KPV inverter and probably two EG4 Powerpro batteries.

The wiring diagram in the manual seems overly complex to me, so here is how I would wire it:

The inverter grid connection goes to a 70 amp breaker in the main panel. This breaker is at the end of the panel bus bar per the NEC code for a back feeder breaker setup. The panel has 225 amp bus bars and a 200 amp main breaker, so this seems to work for the code requirements.

The inverter load connection goes to a 60 amp breaker in the critical panel.

The critical panel has an interlock between the panel main breaker and the inverter load breaker, something like this:

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By providing this interlock, I can either power the critical panel directly (say to bypass the inverter in case of failure or service), or I can power the critical panel from the inverter (normal operation). The interlock prevents both breakers being on. In this way, the inverter is treated like a generator. This “trick” gets me the ability to isolate the inverter (grid and load breakers off) but yet keep the critical panel powered. I don’t need some huge manual transfer switch that I see on some installs.

In addition, I would provide an external RDS emergency stop button on the outside of the house near the meter which can be used to shutdown the inverter. I presume this meets the code requirement for some means to shut off power.

The EG4 manual shows a “PV Interactive System 2 Pole Disconnect” in the grid connection to the main panel. I don’t understand why that exists since it doesn’t stop the critical panel from being powered, and removal of grid power will stop the inverter back feeding power. So why is that there?
.
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I would also add the CT current sense transformers to the main feeds from the meter.

For configuration at this stage it would be acting like a big UPS for the house. I would charge from the grid. The system would be configured with the “Seamless EPS Switching” option which I am led to believe will transfer and restore power in 10 ms from an outage. This is fast enough to prevent resetting of the clocks and computers.

I would also set the system to not feed back power to the grid at all. At this stage that isn’t useful and the permission to do so is not established with the utility.

Phase 3 - Solar

The last phase is to get some solar panels. Since the 18KPV has 3 MPPTs, we can have 3 strings of panels as long as we stay under the voltage and current limits. There seem to be a number of good choices here, so I haven’t picked a particular one yet.

For 28 panels (like the bid layout above), we’d put a string of 10 on MPPT1 and strings of 9 on MPPT2 and MPPT3. I believe that keeps the solar inputs within the voltage and current limits.

Due to roof work, we’d hire someone to do the mounting of the panels on the roof and the wiring to at least the external DC disconnect switch. To finish, we’d wire the panels to the inverter inputs.

Operation

Once solar is hooked up, we can run the system in various modes. The first mode is just powering the critical panel as if we are off grid. We can do that before we have permission to back feed the grid. A slight expansion of this is zero export mode where our power can also be used in the main panel.

Once we get permission to back feed, then we have other options. If net metering is still in effect, then the best mode is to keep the battery fully charged and pump all excess solar energy back into the grid. If the system is sized right, it should zero out the utility bill or be close to that.

If net metering is not in effect, we can use the battery and the solar to power local loads as much as possible. The inverter won’t be strong enough to handle the big loads, so some power will still have to come from the grid. We can push excess back into the grid at the discount rate, so that helps some. The battery will be cycling every day to some amount. When a storm is coming, we can change more to keep the battery topped up to 100% so we have the maximum energy left.

Questions:

What is wrong with this design?

Why does the system need a disconnect for the inverter grid line?

Does the critical panel interlock idea pass muster?

How onerous is the permitting and for what parts will I be required to use a pro?

Any suggestions on panel installers or electricians I can hire near Sarasota, FL?

Have I chosen the right equipment? What would be better?

Any other suggestions or comments?

I appreciate anyone who reads this far. If we go through with this, I’ll keep people up to date on our progress and issues.

Thanks all.

Mike C.
 
"Presently, they can get net metering with the utility, but that is under legislative threat." I thought Governor DeSantis vetoed that, but it could be a issue in the future. But since you are thinking about the 18Kpv net metering would be an option. What power company do they have?
 
"The inverter load connection goes to a 60 amp breaker in the critical panel." what are the loads for the critical panel?
 
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I am utilizing a critical load panel for the 18Kpv, loads are hotwater heater (2000Watt), 3 mini splits, GE washer/dryer, freezer.
 
"The EG4 manual shows a “PV Interactive System 2 Pole Disconnect” in the grid connection to the main panel. I don’t understand why that exists since it doesn’t stop the critical panel from being powered, and removal of grid power will stop the inverter back feeding power." Would not hurt to use a 2 pole fuse disconnect. If the 18Kpv is on the inside of the house you will need a disconnect on the outside.
 
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One thing to take in consideration is that the 18Kpv fans can get load. Also it might not hurt to ask the homeowner insurance company if they have issues with the solar system. My insurance said they were okay with mine because it was a ground mount.
 
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"Presently, they can get net metering with the utility, but that is under legislative threat." I thought Governor DeSantis vetoed that, but it could be a issue in the future. But since you are thinking about the 18Kpv net metering would be an option. What power company do they have?
I expect net metering to be under constant threat since it makes logical sense that exported power can't be at 100% retail. Power just doesn't work that way. Without net metering, then a system where it uses as much of the energy locally first (which is 100% benefit) is ideal. The single 18KPV won't be able to power the big heavy users, but we can probably cancel maybe 75% of the power demands. So even if net metering dies, the system payback can still be maintained.

The folks trying to sell a solar system lease never tell home owners about the regulatory threat to net metering. If the system isn't designed right, that will leave a homeowner paying for the system lease payments *and* paying for electricity. That's a no win situation. My goal is to reduce the cost of the system while improving its performance by sticking my nose into the system design.
 
"The inverter load connection goes to a 60 amp breaker in the critical panel." what are the loads for the critical panel?
Basically all the 120 VAC outlets and lights, refrigerators (they have 2), microwave oven occasionally. The house is all LED bulbs and there's not much running all the time, so I expect the typical average load is about 500 W. I don't think we will be close to maxing out the 12 KW 18KPV capacity on the critical panel. A debate is whether the heat pump hot water heater should be on the critical panel, or the stove. The stove (induction type) would be nice because the nuisance outages reset its clock a lot, and the nuisance outages cause the cooking to stop when the controller resets. Once they are in hurricane survival mode, they can avoid use of the stove.
 
Morris Products 97643 Multi-Cable Connector
Where would this fit in my design?
If the 18Kpv is on the inside of the house you will need a disconnect on the outside.
Can someone explain why?

If the first responder removes the meter, grid is off, 18KPV won't back feed it, so no output. What does a disconnect do?

The disconnect does NOT depower the critical panel. So those circuits are still live even if I have the inverter grid power disconnect. But fi I have the rapid shutdown (RSD) on the outside, that shuts down the inverter and the batteries. That seems far more important and useful than the inverter grid disconnect.

So I don't understand the reasoning behind the disconnect shown in the diagrams. Isn't RSD enough?
 
One thing to take in consideration is that the 18Kpv fans can get load. Also it might not hurt to ask the homeowner insurance company if they have issues with the solar system. My insurance said they were okay with mine because it was a ground mount.
It will be in a garage, fan noise should not be a big deal. Can't be any louder than the central vac.

Insurance hasn't been consulted, should check into that. My understanding was it would be okay (roof had pool solar panels before, in fact).

Thanks for reading my long thing and providing feedback. It is helpful.
 
Consider something like the Generac Smart Management system for your large loads. It might simplify your install, and allow you to selectively use appliances without overloading your system.
 
Can you explain the wiring of the critical loads breaker. (70A). Will the critical load panel have access to the grid power at all times? If not when the solar and battery are not available the critical loads want have any power.
 
Since you don’t want to net meter, wonder if 3 6000xp would work? They would allow you to add more loads to your critical load panel. 18Kpv 12,000 continuous watts, 3 6000XP 18,000 watts. I realize the 3 6000XP will be constrained by the 60 AMP critical load breaker, but the 18Kpv is pretty much limited to 50 amps continuous.
 

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Where would this fit in my design?

Can someone explain why?

If the first responder removes the meter, grid is off, 18KPV won't back feed it, so no output. What does a disconnect do?

The disconnect does NOT depower the critical panel. So those circuits are still live even if I have the inverter grid power disconnect. But fi I have the rapid shutdown (RSD) on the outside, that shuts down the inverter and the batteries. That seems far more important and useful than the inverter grid disconnect.

So I don't understand the reasoning behind the disconnect shown in the diagrams. Isn't RSD enough?
Because it's a code requirement. Before you design, you need to find out what code iteration your locallity is on and then find out what other requirements the AHJ has over and above the NEC.
 
Plus one on using multiple 6000XP's because of the state of "net metering" in your state.You should inquire about "TOU- time of use" metering also.
 
Because it's a code requirement.
I was hoping for some insight as to WHY it is a code requirement since it doesn't shut off power to the critical load panel, and disconnecting the grid at the meter would shutdown back feed to the grid anyway.

What is the PURPOSE of the disconnect? And why isn't RSD enough since that actually does depower everything?
 
RSD is for the PV side of things with TIGO rsd modules or similar.You can also add panel monitoring and optimization for a bit more money.The purpose of the disconnect on the outside of the house is so fire fighters can shut off all the power going to a house in case of fire.It is for their safety and is not negotiable. At least around here, firefighters wouldn't touch a meter.There are different configurations depending on location of equipment in the NEC. Go here and read up https://www.nfpa.org/
 
Since you don’t want to net meter, wonder if 3 6000xp would work? They would allow you to add more loads to your critical load panel. 18Kpv 12,000 continuous watts, 3 6000XP 18,000 watts. I realize the 3 6000XP will be constrained by the 60 AMP critical load breaker, but the 18Kpv is pretty much limited to 50 amps continuous.
I do want net metering capability. Or more precisely, I do want to export power if there is excess. If net metering rules are in place, the pay period for the system is greatly reduced. But I also want to have a flexible enough system that if net metering goes away, it still makes economic sense. Hence using the batteries to fill in the solar gaps.

The 12 KW of the 18KPV is plenty for the critical panel if grid fails. If grid present, the 12 KW will also back feed into the man panel and power heavier loads. If there is excess beyond that, which will happen a lot,, that back feeds into the grid.
 
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