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What Mini-Split did you use, and Why?

Yeah youd have to be real careful about the order in which you did all that and injecting just the atmosphere in one hose unpurged could screw this up. Prolly easy to get it down after a couple of tries, lol.
Huh? Who's injecting atmosphere?
 
I wouldn’t use those kwick evak cans.. it’s so easy to vacuum that doing it any other way doesn’t make sense. U can rent the vacuum at O’Reilys or any auto parts store. They give your money back when it’s returned. They also have gauges but you will need valves to hold the pressure if it doesn’t come with the valves.
 
I wouldn’t use those kwick evak cans.. it’s so easy to vacuum that doing it any other way doesn’t make sense. U can rent the vacuum at O’Reilys or any auto parts store. They give your money back when it’s returned. They also have gauges but you will need valves to hold the pressure if it doesn’t come with the valves.
Yep vacuuming it down is the way to go.

I think I paid $30 for my vacuum pump at the local auction house. They sell all kinds of cheap tools from time to time.
 
Agreed on the vacuuming.

Be careful with the adapters below... Until I tightened the packing and cranked them down with my knipex they leaked... Lost hours rechecking all my flares and trying to hold a vacuum...
gohantee R12 R410 Refrigerant Charging Valve, R12 R22-1/4“ Male to 1/4” Female, R410-1/4" Male to 5/16" Female, Safety Adapter Flow Control Ball Valve for R12 R22 R410 Air Conditioner Manifold https://a.co/d/1GUvvM7

Note that the kwik e vac would be a great addition to vacuuming as a way to introduce pressure to the line on the cheap and check for leaks before vacuuming down and I'll likely go this route for my next split install. That reminds me I need to add a can and fresh vacuum pump oil to my cart.
 
Ok please explain like I'm 5 ?.

If grid is down don't you already have chargers in your inverter?

If it's cloudy why not just have the inverter transfer back to grid?
TOU load shifting. Summer juice is $0.30 1PM to 8PM. 0.08 other times. Charge up 100% use batteries from 1-8. Or even 4-8. Of course I live in phoenix..and now i my panels go nuts from 1000-1600 but If it was going to be a crappy cloudy rainy day (Bwhwhahaahahaha) ... For me I think this might get important to save $$ in winter, when TOU is 5-9,5-9, but we shall see. Make sure the batteries are at 100% at 5AM. Hopefully by 0900 you are getting enough sun to get them back up to 100% by 5PM to ride out the evening rate.. For the time being cheaper than buying another $10k of batteries. and extra panels. Another 30KWH of batteries is on the buy list.
 
TOU load shifting. Summer juice is $0.30 1PM to 8PM. 0.08 other times. Charge up 100% use batteries from 1-8. Or even 4-8. Of course I live in phoenix..and now i my panels go nuts from 1000-1600 but If it was going to be a crappy cloudy rainy day (Bwhwhahaahahaha) ... For me I think this might get important to save $$ in winter, when TOU is 5-9,5-9, but we shall see. Make sure the batteries are at 100% at 5AM. Hopefully by 0900 you are getting enough sun to get them back up to 100% by 5PM to ride out the evening rate.. For the time being cheaper than buying another $10k of batteries. and extra panels. Another 30KWH of batteries is on the buy list.
You can charge the batteries to 100% from an aio using the grid, no?
 
You can charge the batteries to 100% from an aio using the grid, no?
You are assuming I'm grid tied, which I'm not. Or your assuming that you can somehow connect AC from an outside source to my inverter that only charges the batteries, which I have been unable to accomplish no matter what I have tried. I have two inverters tied in parallel to handle 24KW. The chargeverter for me was an interim solution. I might grid-tie, but to steer back on topic, I'm looking at replacing my 4T goodman with 4 mini-splits, so maybe 24000 btu in the great room/kitchen area, and 3 9's in the bedrooms. I'd like to mount the compressors on the roof and poke up thru. That puts 4 small compressors on the roof in place of the giant goodman I have now. Not sure if it's going to buy much. So I have a 3BR, the living area is around 24x30, has kitchen, dining, living. I'm just not sure if it will improve efficiency. My house was built around a roof mounted swamp cooler, then retro-fitted with ceiling mounted ducting for A/C. Overall airflow is abysmal, but I'm not sure a single split air-handler in the 24x32 is going to work any better.
 
You are assuming I'm grid tied, which I'm not. Or your assuming that you can somehow connect AC from an outside source to my inverter that only charges the batteries, which I have been unable to accomplish no matter what I have tried. I have two inverters tied in parallel to handle 24KW. The chargeverter for me was an interim solution. I might grid-tie, but to steer back on topic, I'm looking at replacing my 4T goodman with 4 mini-splits, so maybe 24000 btu in the great room/kitchen area, and 3 9's in the bedrooms. I'd like to mount the compressors on the roof and poke up thru. That puts 4 small compressors on the roof in place of the giant goodman I have now. Not sure if it's going to buy much. So I have a 3BR, the living area is around 24x30, has kitchen, dining, living. I'm just not sure if it will improve efficiency. My house was built around a roof mounted swamp cooler, then retro-fitted with ceiling mounted ducting for A/C. Overall airflow is abysmal, but I'm not sure a single split air-handler in the 24x32 is going to work any better.
Have you considered a ducted system with mini split technology? That's what we did with three units and I am amazed at how efficient, effective, and quiet they are. The negative, of course, is with a single unit you have a single point of failure that can leave you without AC.
 
You are assuming I'm grid tied, which I'm not. Or your assuming that you can somehow connect AC from an outside source to my inverter that only charges the batteries, which I have been unable to accomplish no matter what I have tried. I have two inverters tied in parallel to handle 24KW. The chargeverter for me was an interim solution. I might grid-tie, but to steer back on topic, I'm looking at replacing my 4T goodman with 4 mini-splits, so maybe 24000 btu in the great room/kitchen area, and 3 9's in the bedrooms. I'd like to mount the compressors on the roof and poke up thru. That puts 4 small compressors on the roof in place of the giant goodman I have now. Not sure if it's going to buy much. So I have a 3BR, the living area is around 24x30, has kitchen, dining, living. I'm just not sure if it will improve efficiency. My house was built around a roof mounted swamp cooler, then retro-fitted with ceiling mounted ducting for A/C. Overall airflow is abysmal, but I'm not sure a single split air-handler in the 24x32 is going to work any better.
No I'm not assuming that. An aio and most inverters will charge from the grid even if they are not grid tied.

Which inverters do you have?
 
I have two. A hotspot energy acdc12 and a acdc18

I heat and cool a 44x40 with 14' sidewalls with no issues

Seer rating of 24 on 240v and 77 on solar


Well pleased, going on 4 years
 
I see Senville mentioned which caught my attention. I have one of their older units, the SENA/24HF that's just over 4 years old now. I can't locate the original documentation for it but I'm pretty sure it's the model that heats down to 5F. I have it connected to a pizzabox head unit that's ducted to 3 bedrooms. It still provided plenty of heat the nights we've dropped close to 0F, but I can tell it struggles at those temps. I've been VERY impressed by it and have been considering their newer models for a future upgrade - 3 ductless head units to replace the ducting that's likely killing efficiency. I'd love to hear feedback/review of someone that has the newer -22F units.
@LithiumSolar Now I’m questioning what I looked up. Seems the Arctic versions are 24HF/Q. Maybe the Q is the designator for the lower ambient capability. They don’t seem to have another cold weather model.
 

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I have NO batteries or inverters in the mix... they will run PV direct!!! I have the option of running them on utility at night if I were to need to. I've been very pleased thus far with them.
Oh! So no inverter only batteries. Ok then I understand how the chargeverter would fit in
 
@LithiumSolar Now I’m questioning what I looked up. Seems the Arctic versions are 24HF/Q. Maybe the Q is the designator for the lower ambient capability. They don’t seem to have another cold weather model.
Just talked to Senville Directly. They emailed me the attached spreadsheet/pdf with details on temp/btu for cooling and heating (bottom of sheet). Very impressive and almost identical to C&H. A 2023 24k BTU unit will heat at over 17k BTU at -22 degrees F.
 

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Yep 77 seer on DC and 24 seer on AC (230v)
I see on their website now. Thats bonkers. I wonder why a higher voltage DC makes it so much more efficient? That not even just a little bit, thats a ton.

Might have to look into doing that model in my living room...
 
They are considering the SEER in hybrid AC / DC mode just using the AC:

"SEER
On pure AC power when no free solar energy is used, official SEER is >22. SEER is "Seasonal EER" and is a way of describing an "average EER" and considers that the system operates under part-load conditions a majority of the time. Currently, there is no official test standard for testing SEER or EER based on whether or not the energy is paid for. However, if you perform a SEER calculation and include only the paid energy, this calculated SEER can be as high as SEER 75 or above when using solar along with AC backup power."
 
They are considering the SEER in hybrid AC / DC mode just using the AC:

"SEER
On pure AC power when no free solar energy is used, official SEER is >22. SEER is "Seasonal EER" and is a way of describing an "average EER" and considers that the system operates under part-load conditions a majority of the time. Currently, there is no official test standard for testing SEER or EER based on whether or not the energy is paid for. However, if you perform a SEER calculation and include only the paid energy, this calculated SEER can be as high as SEER 75 or above when using solar along with AC backup power."
Ah. Cheaters.

By that logic, if not connecting AC power, it's infinite SEER
 
I see on their website now. Thats bonkers. I wonder why a higher voltage DC makes it so much more efficient? That not even just a little bit, thats a ton.

Might have to look into doing that model in my living room...
We are getting ready to build and I'll have several of these in the new home. They keep our 44x40x14 shop whatever temp we want.


We ran em solar only for over a year before running utility to the shop
 
Just installed in the Senville 24k Aura yesterday in our cabin and it's awesome. We will use it for cooling when needed as we have no air-conditioning now but mainly for heat in winter vs electric baseboard. Install went smooth, I did do the 'extras': 10 awg Romex to 10 awg thhn/thwn in conduit outside to disconnect, pressure tested with nitrogen to 400 psi (bottle and regulator from local air/gas place was $140), Appion schrader valve core removal tool, inexpensive flaring tool and reamer from Lowes, CPS Micron gauge, and lineset bending springs. I will say the best choice I made was NOT to use the corrugated lineset that comes with unit as you can't cut them to length (I bought the smallest length kit from Senville to get the parts knowing I'd scrap the lines) and bought a lineset that I can cut to length from a local HVAC supplier to have a professional looking install. 5/8 vapor line was a beast to mess with but the bending springs I bought did a great job as you can see in one of the pics. Only been a day but very happy with this unit.

Now on to power consumption for this 240v model. On turbo it used about 1900 watts which was very impressive for how cold this unit runs then really scales back consumption (emporia screenshot attached). This morning it's still putting out cool air and dehumidifying at around 500 watts. Final thing, this 24k Aura is VERY quiet. Truly impressed.

Yes: I grounded the junction box in basement ceiling, wrapped the white line with black electrical tape in jbox and panel, and have romex staples within 12" of box before anyone asks
Also, I know I have two red lines for the 240v connection. 10 awg black thhn is no where to be found in my area and no idea when it will be back in stock.


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Senville 24HF/ID https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1S6G8W?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_8BZ07R4F0Z6HQA5F5QK5. It works great in my 5th wheel RV. Tech support always answers and is helpful. The warranty is nice, have not needed to use it though. Senville did send me a 2nd filter upon request, free. during research and comparison with other units, the senville specs and manual seemed identical to several others brands.
 

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