diy solar

diy solar

Where do you have your Inverter and Battery installed ?

I just came in after trying to get wires pulled, I'm trying to pull three 10awg solid thru half inch pvc for about 60ft run, and I couldn't get it past 40ft or so no matter what I tried. Had my wife feed the wires in while I pulled but it just wouldn't go through. I gave up after it got dark, my hands were hurting and I was hungry. I'll try it with pull lubricant tomorrow, hope it helps because don't want to put in wider conduit or thinner wire.

I've pulled multiple sets of 12 awg through conduit, approaching the fill limits. More recent ones were stranded, which helps.
With one wire pulling several daisy-chained, I would wrap it around a piece of pipe and pull the pipe.
When more oomph needed, I used the pipe as a pry bar, getting some mechanical advantage on the tension.
I'm not looking forward to the last couple I plan to do.

Next time use wider conduit, and stranded.

1/2" schedule 40 PVC, 0.602 ID

Schedule 80 0.526 ID



10 awg solid THWN 0.161 OD


3 x 0.161 = 0.483

That's less than conduit OD. Good news is 3 across should make it around bends without getting wedged.
 
As the title said. Where do you have your system installed ? Outside shed, workshop, detach garage, inside the house, attic, where ?
I just started to study about solar as Im really serious thinking to install it in my house. And I tons of questions already started to pop up on my mind. One of them is where to install everything. In my case as I lived in Austin TX and here is super hot during summer and during winter it can be really cold and also because I don't land, shed, workshop, detach garage, just a small house in a small lot, the only 2 places that I can image is inside the garage (small garage) or in the attic.
The problem with the garage is the temperature during summer, it can go over 110F easily easily and I don't see me installing a AC in the garage just because of the solar equipment.
Now attic probably is a good place as it is spray foam insulated. I now that it gets hotter than the house but not as hot as the garage.
I just added a thermometer outside the house, one inside the garage and one in the attic so I can compare all of them and have a real metric to be sure.
What do you guys think ? Is it okay to have inverter and batteries inside the house ? In my case inside the attic if it is not super hot ? Any concern about security ? As I said I'm really new on this solar world but my mindset still saying me that maybe it is not safe to have inverter and batteries inside the house. I'm looking to use EG4 LiFePO4 batteries.
Again, please let me know what do you think and your experiences and everything else.
Thanks a lot and sorry the long text.....
Mount the equipment where the family would be most comfortable…make them look , touch and understand it…explain to everyone that if this stuff isn’t happy ,then we won’t be happy when we need it to perform its job….anyone whose ever been days without electricity will totally understand.
 
I've pulled multiple sets of 12 awg through conduit, approaching the fill limits. More recent ones were stranded, which helps.
With one wire pulling several daisy-chained, I would wrap it around a piece of pipe and pull the pipe.
When more oomph needed, I used the pipe as a pry bar, getting some mechanical advantage on the tension.
I'm not looking forward to the last couple I plan to do.

Next time use wider conduit, and stranded.

1/2" schedule 40 PVC, 0.602 ID

Schedule 80 0.526 ID



10 awg solid THWN 0.161 OD


3 x 0.161 = 0.483

That's less than conduit OD. Good news is 3 across should make it around bends without getting wedged.
I thought I had ordered stranded 10ga, but guess not. My invoice showed that I had so I'm "stuck" with it. I used the Southwire conduit fill calculator and it said three 10ga solid isn't too much of a fill for half inch (18% fill).

I could use 12ga because it's not a long run (60'), but I don't want to buy any more wire, I have a lot of 10ga left over already so I'm going to try and make this work. My conduit trench is partially filled so I don't want to pull the half inch pipe either. I don't have any pull lube, so I'm going to try that first.
 
Our sunny Island 8.0 is on an outside wall with a canopy to keep direct rain off. There's a postion for a second SI, but they're like hen's teeth at the moment. Ordered one last October but it hasn't materialised. The batteries are on shelves below, covered to protect from rain.

I used something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/4000LB-Pul...id=1682950569&sprefix=block+an,aps,121&sr=8-8 to get the 63kg inverter in position on my own.
 
I had a friend come over and help when I pulled the lines under the house. I did this with 10/3 wire. Was fun....

The tp6048 is AWESOME for one simple reason. I forget its out there. Thats the ultimate compliment I can give to something I own. It does its job and I forget I even have it other than posting on the forums here.

All I do is add more panels to it from time to time increasing how much its saving me on the power bill. The unit so far has been absolutely flawless.

I had considered going with other models they have for some of the other installs I have planned since it uses 130watts just being there but its worked so great and Ive read others having peoples with firmware and such on the fancier new models Im going to stick with what works.

Plus in a pinch I could swap out a unit from something not important if one of the key ones ever had problems by sticking with the one model across all of the installs.
Glad it's working out for you, I considered getting that model, but thought there's no reason to get split phase unless I had more panels or batteries, of which I don't have any. This single 120V unit ought to be sufficient for now.
 
Glad it's working out for you, I considered getting that model, but thought there's no reason to get split phase unless I had more panels or batteries, of which I don't have any. This single 120V unit ought to be sufficient for now.
I thought that back when I bought my first large inverter which was an aims (HATE that company now).

Since wellpumps, decent size air conditioners etc need the split phase its better to have it and possibly not need it than to find out you need it and have to do without.

Plus with the split phase you just put different loads on each leg of it just like you do with the power companies boxes.
 
I've pulled multiple sets of 12 awg through conduit, approaching the fill limits. More recent ones were stranded, which helps.
With one wire pulling several daisy-chained, I would wrap it around a piece of pipe and pull the pipe.
When more oomph needed, I used the pipe as a pry bar, getting some mechanical advantage on the tension.
I'm not looking forward to the last couple I plan to do.

Next time use wider conduit, and stranded.

1/2" schedule 40 PVC, 0.602 ID

Schedule 80 0.526 ID



10 awg solid THWN 0.161 OD


3 x 0.161 = 0.483

That's less than conduit OD. Good news is 3 across should make it around bends without getting wedged.
I got to thinking last night that this solid strand wire was twisting up while it was going thru the conduit, and gets worse the farther it goes. So I thought why not tape the wires together every 8-12in so they won’t tangle. I also taped each wire about 2ft down from the other wire to give it more flexibility.

At 58ft, it took a while, but I slowly taped the wires together every so far, and then would push the bundle down the pipe. I started at about 11, and just finished (3pm) pulling the last of the wires thru the other end. Due to the stiffness of the solid wires I was able to push thru about 90% until it got to that last 90 degree elbow where it comes up and out of the trench. There it took some effort, but I was able to pull the rest thru. Didn't even have to use any lube. Looks like I have about 10ft of wire left over.

Now it’s just a matter of hooking wires into the array junction box, then hooking wires into the disconnect switch in the closet and then the inverter. Going to take a break, but hope to get it done later today. Note to self, don’t ever use half inch conduit again…
 

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I got to thinking last night that this solid strand wire was twisting up while it was going thru the conduit, and gets worse the farther it goes. So I thought why not tape the wires together every 8-12in so they won’t tangle. I also taped each wire about 2ft down from the other wire to give it more flexibility.

At 58ft, it took a while, but I slowly taped the wires together every so far, and then would push the bundle down the pipe. I started at about 11, and just finished (3pm) pulling the last of the wires thru the other end. Due to the stiffness of the solid wires I was able to push thru about 90% until it got to that last 90 degree elbow where it comes up and out of the trench. There it took some effort, but I was able to pull the rest thru. Didn't even have to use any lube. Looks like I have about 10ft of wire left over.

Now it’s just a matter of hooking wires into the array junction box, then hooking wires into the disconnect switch in the closet and then the inverter. Going to take a break, but hope to get it done later today. Note to self, don’t ever use half inch conduit again…
Sometimes I will tape group conductors like that for a pull. But I cut the tape off, before it enters the conduit. The tape makes them harder to flex individually around bends.
But, I'm glad that you got it done.
The hard part is behind you.
 
Sometimes I will tape group conductors like that for a pull. But I cut the tape off, before it enters the conduit. The tape makes them harder to flex individually around bends.
But, I'm glad that you got it done.
The hard part is behind you.
Yeah, hooking up the various wire connections will be a breeze compared to this. My hands are aching but at least I won't be pulling wire again any time soon. I don't know if you're a sparky but I don't know how folks can work with wire like that or install outlets, switches, etc, and not have either carpal tunnel and/or arthritis within a few years of starting such work.

Yesterday I was thinking I was going to have go get some 12awg and piggyback those wires onto the 10awg ground wire, but thought why not try tying the 10's tightly together like a big three strand wire. Tape's a lot cheaper than wire. Took a while but it worked out.
 
Yeah, hooking up the various wire connections will be a breeze compared to this. My hands are aching but at least I won't be pulling wire again any time soon. I don't know if you're a sparky but I don't know how folks can work with wire like that or install outlets, switches, etc, and not have either carpal tunnel and/or arthritis within a few years of starting such work.

Yesterday I was thinking I was going to have go get some 12awg and piggyback those wires onto the 10awg ground wire, but thought why not try tying the 10's tightly together like a big three strand wire. Tape's a lot cheaper than wire. Took a while but it worked out.
I am.
40 years in the trade.
I guess it's like anything else. You get used to it, after a while.
Don't get me wrong. After a couple of days wrangling 500's, being sore is unavoidable. But for the most part, I enjoy doing what I do.
 
Note to self, don’t ever use half inch conduit again…

PVC indoors, and carrying PV. Don't think that meets NEC or would pass inspection.

Exposed ends of conduit - going to slip something over the wires to finish? Rain cap for outside?
 
PVC indoors, and carrying PV. Don't think that meets NEC or would pass inspection.

Exposed ends of conduit - going to slip something over the wires to finish? Rain cap for outside?
I'm not done with buttoning things up outside or inside just yet. I put a stopper in the hole outside so rain doesn't go down into the pipe. At the array, I'm planning on running the PV wires and ground wire into a weather head, then into a junction box. From there it'll transition to these THHN wires.

Where does it have to transition from PVC to metallic pipe? Does it have to be EMT, can it be flexible metallic ? This PVC pipe comes up from below ground, then up thru a 3ft crawl space and then thru the floor.
 
Metal, anywhere inside the house.
Flexible is fine. (Don't put flex in the dirt)
 
While I haven't read that part of the code myself, what I read on the forum is metal conduit or MC (Metal clad flexible, not same as MC3/MC4 like first thought it meant!)

If you are able to cut and debur the PVC somewhere near ground level (I'm not clear on code) and debur it without damaging wires, you could slip EMT or flexible BX if you prefer through the hole in floor. (I don't think code explicitly allows BX vs. MC. Tim, do you know if BX is accepted?) If it could get into the dirt I would use rigid or IMC not EMC.

I first used PVC outside, and inspector said OK for vertical exposed but not horizontal exposed surface mount. I replaced with rigid or IMC. I use flexible liquid tight where making connections to inverters, because might need to take them down. I have rigid between junction boxes and breaker panels. Both AC and DC.
 
Metal, anywhere inside the house.
Flexible is fine. (Don't put flex in the dirt)
So is the crawlspace considered inside the house? If not just cut it off somewhere under the floor? Will be tough with wires in there already. Is liquid tight flex conduit not acceptable? I bought some liquid tight half inch conduit to run between the inverter and DC disconnect which will be on the wall below the inverter.
 
While I haven't read that part of the code myself, what I read on the forum is metal conduit or MC (Metal clad flexible, not same as MC3/MC4 like first thought it meant!)

If you are able to cut and debur the PVC somewhere near ground level (I'm not clear on code) and debur it without damaging wires, you could slip EMT or flexible BX if you prefer through the hole in floor. (I don't think code explicitly allows BX vs. MC. Tim, do you know if BX is accepted?) If it could get into the dirt I would use rigid or IMC not EMC.

I first used PVC outside, and inspector said OK for vertical exposed but not horizontal exposed surface mount. I replaced with rigid or IMC. I use flexible liquid tight where making connections to inverters, because might need to take them down. I have rigid between junction boxes and breaker panels. Both AC and DC.
Mc is the aluminum replacement for bx.
Any metallic conduit is fine.
 
So is the crawlspace considered inside the house? If not just cut it off somewhere under the floor? Will be tough with wires in there already. Is liquid tight flex conduit not acceptable? I bought some liquid tight half inch conduit to run between the inverter and DC disconnect which will be on the wall below the inverter.
Crawl space is considered part of the inside.
I would change it over 6" out of the dirt. You can buy a pvc female adapter at any hardware store.
Since the wire is already in the PVC. It can be cut with a piece of string. Similar to what's in a chalk line. Pulling back and forth against the PVC. Be careful not to hit the wires. As you move around the conduit.
 
Crawl space is considered part of the inside.
I would change it over 6" out of the dirt. You can buy a pvc female adapter at any hardware store.
Since the wire is already in the PVC. It can be cut with a piece of string. Similar to what's in a chalk line. Pulling back and forth against the PVC. Be careful not to hit the wires. As you move around the conduit.
Ok, but can I use the liquid tight non metallic flex conduit to run up into the house? And can I run it from the DC disconnect to the inverter? If not the liquid tight, what else is allowed?
 
Since the wire is already in the PVC. It can be cut with a piece of string. Similar to what's in a chalk line. Pulling back and forth against the PVC. Be careful not to hit the wires. As you move around the conduit.

What do you think of pipe/tubing cutter? It bears into the conduit, but loose wires should just shift out of the way.
Once cut there is a lip curved in, maybe use a deburring tool?

Ok, but can I use the liquid tight non metallic flex conduit to run up into the house? And can I run it from the DC disconnect to the inverter? If not the liquid tight, what else is allowed?

Not "non-metallic"

Any metallic, flexible or otherwise. I would consider EMT, should be able to drop into hole (sliding over wires) from room above.
 
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