Why is grounding so HArrrd!!!

[Philip53]

I don't think I want to be anywhere near you in a storm!

 

[timselectric]

Maybe some lightning wise person can comment on something I read years ago. That the lightning protection aerials and the system in general is not to get hit by lightning to protect the house, but rather to 'drain' off the electrical potential in the air surrounding a structure so that lightning is less likely to occur there. If you think about it, if that aerial got hit by lightning it would likely vaporize that rod, and the braided wire all the way to the ground.

Any experts out there?

It's actually both. It dissipates the charge to lesson the chance of a direct hit. And if there is a direct hit, it channels it around the building. Instead of through the building.
It does self destruct in the process. But that's expected.
You can't stop lightning. You can only attempt to avoid and redirect it.

 

[JRH]

My error… it wasnt a falcon 9 ..it was a falcon heavy…in April….Yeow…

 

[Liam M]

I would install a ground bar close to the inverter and charge controller. Connect this bar to the existing grounding system. And connect everything else to the bar.

piggybacking on this as my situation is similar:
solar array to shed with charge controller and inverter. charge controller and inverter do not have ground locations.
Do I have this correct: I connect lugs and #6 ground wire to all panels, run it along with the pv wires to shed, install a ground bar in shed that #6 wire connects to, use mounting screws for charge controller and inverter as equipment ground to the ground bar, then run #6 ground wire all the way across my property to the opposite side of the house to connect to the existing ground rod at the main panel?

 

[timselectric]

Do I have this correct: I connect lugs and #6 ground wire to all panels, run it along with the pv wires to shed, install a ground bar in shed that #6 wire connects to,

That's fine
for the exposed part, a minimum of #6 is required.
If it is ran inside conduit it probably doesn't need to be #6. Just sized appropriately for the circuit.

use mounting screws for charge controller and inverter as equipment ground to the ground bar,

The mounting screws should never be used for a grounding connection. It must be a dedicated connection just for the purpose of grounding.

then run #6 ground wire all the way across my property to the opposite side of the house to connect to the existing ground rod at the main panel?

#6 is the minimum requirement for exposed (to physical damage) ground conductor?
Otherwise it's sized according to the circuit it's ran with.

It should be ran with the circuit conductors and connected to the grounding system at the same location as the circuit conductors.

 

[Liam M]

That's fine
for the exposed part, a minimum of #6 is required.
If it is ran inside conduit it probably doesn't need to be #6. Just sized appropriately for the circuit.

The mounting screws should never be used for a grounding connection. It must be a dedicated connection just for the purpose of grounding.

#6 is the minimum requirement for exposed (to physical damage) ground conductor?
Otherwise it's sized according to the circuit it's ran with.

It should be ran with the circuit conductors and connected to the grounding system at the same location as the circuit conductors.

I see now, the manual for the charge controller states:
If grounding is required, please make sure to ground the device on the negative.

How would that work?

For the inverter, would I drill an additional hole and add ground screw for equipment ground?

Also, the inverter AC out shows open ground with receptacle tester. I’m guessing an equipment ground has no effect on that, please advise.

 

[timselectric]

the manual for the charge controller states:
If grounding is required, please make sure to ground the device on the negative.

Do not ground the negative. Only the enclosure (if metal).

For the inverter, would I drill an additional hole and add ground screw for equipment ground?

You could, if it doesn't have any ground terminals.
I would be surprised if it doesn't.
What brand is it? Picture?

Also, the inverter AC out shows open ground with receptacle tester. I’m guessing an equipment ground has no effect on that, please advise.

That indicates that the tester is not seeing the N/G bond. Which means that there either isn't one or the receptacle is not connected to it.

 

[Supervstech]

I see now, the manual for the charge controller states:
If grounding is required, please make sure to ground the device on the negative.

How would that work?

For the inverter, would I drill an additional hole and add ground screw for equipment ground?

Also, the inverter AC out shows open ground with receptacle tester. I’m guessing an equipment ground has no effect on that, please advise.

On vehicle mounted systems, the negative dc path is bonded to the vehicle frame. With home equipment, there will be grounding terminals, no additional dc bonding is required.

 

[Liam M]

Do not ground the negative. Only the enclosure (if metal).

You could, if it doesn't have any ground terminals.
I would be surprised if it doesn't.
What brand is it? Picture?

That indicates that the tester is not seeing the N/G bond. Which means that there either isn't one or the receptacle is not connected to it.

inverter
I messaged the company asking about grounding and they sent me this photo:
Manual doesn’t mention grounding, I assumed this was just for wiring the 30a AC out, but are they saying this is for equipment ground as well?

charge controller
The mount is the aluminum heat sink at rear. I see now there are 2 mounting holes I’m not using, so I could add a ground lug at one of them for equipment ground?

Also, as this is not connected to house power, could you confirm whether I still should run ground from array to shed where components are mounted, then from shed all the way to the other side of the property/house where main panel is, or - add a ground rod at shed and earth ground there?
Thanks for all the help

 

[Liam M]

On vehicle mounted systems, the negative dc path is bonded to the vehicle frame. With home equipment, there will be grounding terminals, no additional dc bonding is required.

No grounding terminal, but I have an extra mounting hole I can add a grounding lug to.

 

[timselectric]

Manual doesn’t mention grounding, I assumed this was just for wiring the 30a AC out, but are they saying this is for equipment ground as well?

That is the equipment ground connection terminal.

 

[timselectric]

The mount is the aluminum heat sink at rear. I see now there are 2 mounting holes I’m not using, so I could add a ground lug at one of them for equipment ground?

Yes, that's fine.

Also, as this is not connected to house power, could you confirm whether I still should run ground from array to shed where components are mounted, then from shed all the way to the other side of the property/house where main panel is, or - add a ground rod at shed and earth ground there?
Thanks for all the help

If it has wiring running to the house. Then it should be connected to the same grounding system.
If not, then they can be separate.

Also from the notes on the picture. There's definitely not a N/G bond provided by the inverter.
I would recommend that you check with the seller. And make sure that it is capable of being bonded externally. Some of the less expensive inverters are not isolated between the DC and AC side. And can be damaged if bonded and negative grounded. (Usually only a problem for mobile applications)