I have similar cells and they work fine in my 3P16S pack. Years ago I converted a VW to an EV and bought some Winston cells that were expensive but they were well matched and performed well for that EV. They were also $300 per kWh and were able to sustain brief discharge rates of 2 or 3 times their Amphour capacity. That was important for an EV but not important for a stationary pack that might see discharge rates never even close to half of the Amphour capacity. In C rate terminology, the EV cells could discharge briefly at 2-3 C and the EVE cells never go higher than 0.3-0.5C.Your opinion ?
Thanks for this information,There is no such thing as "A" grade cells. It's a marketing term. Cells are either EV grade or not. When EVE sells non-EV grade cells, they laser over the QR code with a big "B" - which as come to be known as "B" grade.
You have likely procured from a particularly lazy seller who couldn't be bothered to obliterate the old one before lasering on the new one.
On the other hand, the QR code under the cover is short.
On the other hand, the QR code visible when the cover is in place is wrong:
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yes i did run the capacity test by myself, it is okHave you load tested them yourself to verify they don’t meet the claimed capacity?
@sunshine_eggo already answered that question for you. @Alkaline is our resident QR authority but they look fine and if they meet claimed capacity, what’s the problem?yes i did run the capacity test by myself, it is ok
so i'm little confuse, Are these cells grade A or not? why there are 2 QR codes, one of which is hidden under the sticker!
ultimately there is not really a problem, however what I do not appreciate is that the seller certified to me that the cells are grade A@sunshine_eggo already answered that question for you. @Alkaline is our resident QR authority but they look fine and if they meet claimed capacity, what’s the problem?
Hi everyone,
I just received a batch of 280Ah cells
The seller assures me that these are grade A, tested at 306Ah, EVE LF280K new version, but...
Here's what I discovered!
Your opinion ?
View attachment 171511View attachment 171512View attachment 171513View attachment 171517View attachment 171518View attachment 171519View attachment 171520
Thanks a lot @Alkaline you comment is very usefull for meYou need to get rubbing alcohol and remove the glue around the qr code to be sure. But that white sticker on the side is generally a sign of grade B
If those two QR codes on the top aluminum housing are what I suspect are legitimate laser etched, it’s going to be a long rub. I would be very hesitant to get any solvent on the blue burst disk protector or on the terminal insulators.Thanks a lot @Alkaline you comment is very usefull for me
i will talk to the seller
If those two QR codes on the top aluminum housing are what I suspect are legitimate laser etched, it’s going to be a long rub. I would be very hesitant to get any solvent on the blue burst disk protector or on the terminal insulators.
i used isopropylique alcoholIf those two QR codes on the top aluminum housing are what I suspect are legitimate laser etched, it’s going to be a long rub. I would be very hesitant to get any solvent on the blue burst disk protector or on the terminal insulators.