diy solar

diy solar

Extra/Auxilary grounding rods..... Don't do it.

Oh, a river would be such a high conductivity, as to not pose an issue.
The problems arise when ground is dry, and has very low conductivity.
The locak weather can cause the ground to have a different voltage from grounded surfaces, causing voltage issues.
All the more reason to have a 4 wire feeder.
 
Not really.
A structure seperated by a few yards/meters can build up a substantially different charge in the same wind stream.
Think about it...
Its static electricity.
Even IDENTICAL buildings could have different angles to the wind, different paint or siding... all accumulate a different environmental charge.

That small amount of electrical static will easily be pulled to zero voltage potential thru the EGC back to system grounding electrode.
One bonded to the ground rods, will closely equalize, where the other without rods could have a different charge.

I dont pretend to understand this further, i just accept the explanation i was traind on...
 
Sorry, but if the EGC is ran from building to building, it is a low impedance path compared to not having an EGC and using the ground as a path.

You most likely are thinking of 3 wire feeders from the past and not a 4 wire feeder which contains the EGC. The 3 wire (2 hots and one neutral) will require a ground electrode and N-G bond in the panel for ground fault clearing. A 4 wire feeder has a low impedance path back to the N-G bond at the service panel.
Oh, ABSOLUTELY, the buildings have to have a contiguous egc connection, but the surface of the area under the building, and the slab can be a different potential without additional grounding rods tied to it.
 
But if that structure is properly bonded/grounded, there should be no difference in potential.
Especially when we are talking about yards of distance.
I have also tested this at a gravel mine, during various weather conditions, including drought. I don't know the exact length, but it was over 1,000'. Because I was into my second reel, which are 1,000' 1st and 500' 2nd. I just don't remember how much of the second reel was extended.
We arent concerned with the structure, it only needs the tied egc, the EARTH around and under the structure needs the ground rod to keep earth at same potential as building.
 
We arent concerned with the structure, it only needs the tied egc, the EARTH around and under the structure needs the ground rod to keep earth at same potential as building.
I can see a static discharge, maybe.
But I can't imagine it rising the level of dangerous.
I still think that it would require miles of distance.
 
he two are in conflict, in that tying your steel mount and PV frames to the common house ground will provide a path for lightning and induced voltages/currents to enter your wiring and equipment
yup. Sometimes it is impossible to avoid creating a ground at the array.

Warning: Some folks that I respect disagree with the following recommendation:

The code allows the solar EGC to be routed directly to the main breaker panel.... so I recommend doing that rather than routing it to the ground in the inverter.

The upside: An surface-wave pulse/spike current going through the EGC will no go through the inverter.
The Downside: The ground-fauilt path will be much longer. (All the way to the main breaker and back to the inverter).

There is no perfect solution. no mater how it is down there is a compromise.
 
Us human's can fight and argue and implement our own choices as much as we like, at the end of the day mother nature will always win.
Lightning is her fun toy.
 
Oh, a river would be such a high conductivity, as to not pose an issue.
The problems arise when ground is dry, and has very low conductivity.
The locak weather can cause the ground to have a different voltage from grounded surfaces, causing voltage issues.
Umm, I dunno.

In Virginia Beach the water table is very low. Now this was a very long time ago, but I had a problem once with a SPA about 40-50' away from the house every time the ground was saturated with water, after rain, The unit was connected to 240v only grounded at the pad the spa was on to a box with 3 wires, N+L1+L2. It kept tripping the GFCI. I pulled a ground thru the conduit from the panel, connected it inside the box, and all the problems went away. Before connecting, I was reading > 40v between panel ground and earth ground at the spa pad. I came back to service the spa later when it was dry (relay problem in the unit it turns out), and I re-tested got 0v. I was not the electrician just a swimming pool company tech that worked on pumps and such but I saw stuff like this all the time, this was by far the worst, I think the homeowner ran the service to the spa, but it was definitely not a problem when the ground was dry.
 
Umm, I dunno.

In Virginia Beach the water table is very low. Now this was a very long time ago, but I had a problem once with a SPA about 40-50' away from the house every time the ground was saturated with water, after rain, The unit was connected to 240v only grounded at the pad the spa was on to a box with 3 wires, N+L1+L2. It kept tripping the GFCI. I pulled a ground thru the conduit from the panel, connected it inside the box, and all the problems went away. Before connecting, I was reading > 40v between panel ground and earth ground at the spa pad. I came back to service the spa later when it was dry (relay problem in the unit it turns out), and I re-tested got 0v. I was not the electrician just a swimming pool company tech that worked on pumps and such but I saw stuff like this all the time, this was by far the worst, I think the homeowner ran the service to the spa, but it was definitely not a problem when the ground was dry.
That is a different issue.
It comes from all the induction motors and resistance heaters in contact with water.
Its why swimming pools require specific grounding rules in the code book.
 
Excellent info in this thread and great discussion.

So many years back when I thought solar was dumb (I know, shock me) and I wired in my pole garage I added an additional ground round... I'm debating if I should disconnect it.

I'll try to describe the current state.
Grid connection / meter to house and main grounding rod, 200A breaker and N/G bond. Run to main load panel (with 4 wire aluminum feeder) which feeds grid to AIO (grid output breaker is open most of the year) . AIO out to subapnel 1 which feeds the garage and upstairs panel. The garage panel feed is also 4 wire AL and has its own ground rod. Ehh that's confusing let me draw a diagram. (hopefully my chicken scratch is legible)

If it matters the upstairs panel was originally the main panel, I rewired the grid feed to the main load panel when I installed the AIO.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240322_164618__01.jpg
    IMG_20240322_164618__01.jpg
    228.7 KB · Views: 6
Thank you Tim.
And Hopefully removed the N/G bond from the upstairs panel.
Yes, no N/G bonds exist besides the main grid feed entrance.
It's still required per the current code.
(I would remove it)
Easy enough (required not necessary...)
I need to pull that panel cover off and check re-torque the connections anyway they are overdue for PM.
 
Having said that, I am still a little uncomfortable with the code requirement for a second (not auxiliary) grounding electrode for separate buildings.
I am Schizophrenic (and so am I) so I will argue with myself.

The rules around grounding say that anything that could act like a grounding electrode, is a grounding electrode and must be tied into the grounding system. It also says any exposed metal must be tied into the grounding system. Both of these are reasonable requirements, even in the case of a 2nd building. Consequently, if the 2nd building is much more than a wooden shed sitting on the ground, there will be earth grounding regardless of the presence of a dedicated earth grounding electrode. Consequently, it may not matter much if the code requires a dedicated electrode. However, one should still pay attention to how the grounding conductor of the feeder ciricuit to the building is routed.


1711933945216.png
 
Last edited:
Another nice video from Mike Holt.

Auxilary grounding rods are not required but there is a rule that states there are no requirements on an auxiliary ground e;ectrodes. At one point in the video, he talks about CAT 5 wires and 10 penny nails for the auxiliary grounding electrode. :ROFLMAO:


It has taken several years but we are starting to see both professionals and DIYrs wake up to the fact that auxiliary grounding electrodes are 1) not required and 2) not recommended.

Having said that, I am still a little uncomfortable with the code requirement for a second (not auxiliary) grounding electrode for separate buildings. I would love to see the rationale for this as well as a multi-year study of a bunch of instances where this is not done. The good news is that with just a little planning the 2nd electrode can be set up with the path to the first electrode only going through breaker boxes....but even breaker boxes are starting to get a lot of electronics in them.
What’s the difference between 2nd , and auxiliary rods? 2nd would be 1 at house, and one at second building? Auxiliary would the the 2nd of 2 ground rods (connected together) forming the grounded electrode?
 
yup. Sometimes it is impossible to avoid creating a ground at the array.

Warning: Some folks that I respect disagree with the following recommendation:

The code allows the solar EGC to be routed directly to the main breaker panel.... so I recommend doing that rather than routing it to the ground in the inverter.

The upside: An surface-wave pulse/spike current going through the EGC will no go through the inverter.
The Downside: The ground-fauilt path will be much longer. (All the way to the main breaker and back to the inverter).

There is no perfect solution. no mater how it is down there is a compromise.
You recommend (if I recal) the array EGC connected to the main GEC right?

Tim has stated anything connected to grounding system becomes part of the grounding system (but I don’t know if Tim recommends that or not).

Wouldn’t it be better to connect each EGC to a central ground busbar, instead of connecting to other metal (rather than grounding to inverter)

If all metal gets connected together than why does it matter?
 
T
What’s the difference between 2nd , and auxiliary rods?
Good Question.

The code requires grounding electrodes connected in at the first means of disconnect at the house and each of the other building.

The code allows but does not require grounding electrodes elsewhere in the system. As an example generator companies used to require grounding electrodes at the generator even though the NEC does not require them. These non-required electrodes are called auxiliary electrodes by the NEC and the NEC specifically says that there are no requirements on an auxiliary grounding electrode. (a 10-penny nail in a flower pot could be called an auxiliary grounding electrode).
 
You recommend (if I recal) the array EGC connected to the main GEC right?

Tim has stated anything connected to grounding system becomes part of the grounding system (but I don’t know if Tim recommends that or not).

Wouldn’t it be better to connect each EGC to a central ground busbar, instead of connecting to other metal (rather than grounding to inverter)

If all metal gets connected together than why does it matter?
1711935358615.png

I recommend routing the PV EGC directly to the main breaker box where the Grounding Electrode Conductor ties in. It would be better to route it directly to the grounding electrode, but I don't know if inspectors would allow it.
 
T

Good Question.

The code requires grounding electrodes connected in at the first means of disconnect at the house and each of the other building.

The code allows but does not require grounding electrodes elsewhere in the system. As an example generator companies used to require grounding electrodes at the generator even though the NEC does not require them. These non-required electrodes are called auxiliary electrodes by the NEC and the NEC specifically says that there are no requirements on an auxiliary grounding electrode. (a 10-penny nail in a flower pot could be called an auxiliary grounding electrode).
I’m still confused. 2nd rods,and aux rods are the same thing?

Also….. ground rod at array, and rod at main service is not a good idea….. but 2nd rod at 2nd building (let’s say detached garage sub panel is needed…….


Isn’t that the same situation?
 
Back
Top