diy solar

diy solar

Buchanan Splice Caps and other novel splicing methods.

To be clear.
I don't use them. But I'm OK with others using them.
Service calls are easy money.
 
Agreed and I would believe in that for splicing two clean straight solid wires. But for 12 awg stranded, my mind just imagines the set screw twisting them up or a couple hairs ending up straddling the screw instead of compressed by it.

Is the screw wider than the barrel of the connector so they can't end up either side of it?

Haven't had either of those problems.

Screw is just as wide as ID. So far they've worked pretty well for me. Sometimes have difficulty unscrewing cap if stuffed with wires to setscrew drags on it.

I think we're supposed to twist wire together before putting in connector. I don't at least for lab use. With widely varying wire size that isn't always secure.

Comes with a plastic tool to hold small or large brass connector while you tighten screw.

I haven't looked thoroughly, but I believe those are not usually both 600v rated and UL listed/rated. In my case these are for inside a weatherproof box like this with a gasket sealed cover plate:

View attachment 208891

That's how I transition from conduit to PV wire. Glands available with 2, 4, other number of holes in insert to seal to wire. If wires can enter through another hole on bottom, then drip proof and seal not so important.

Also PVC boxes. My surface mount exterior conduit was originally PVC until a later inspector said not for exposed horizontal runs, so I redid with rigid.


Call me stupid but I'd probably just use wire nuts. They're rated for it 🤷‍♂️

I did originally.
Later realized SMA manual said not to use them. Concern was arcing causing failure of inverter.
Not sure they're any more subject to coming lose and arcing than others.

A few more connector types. DIN rail, more convenient in a combiner box.

1712930372396.png 1712930469085.png

There are also some that work similar to Wago but with screwdriver in slot to spring open, rather than a plastic lever. Used in some SMA inverters.

I tend to favor connectors with wire to wire compression or heavy barrel, rather than the ones with sheet metal spring.
 
I used a wire nut in my combiner box for one of my arrays to splice 10 (from panels), 8 (to inside) and 14 (SPD) gauge wires together:

20240412-11-03.15.png

I'm pretty particular about things as well, but what sold me on using a wire nut versus other methods was watching this Youtube video on splicing larger gauge wires:
 
Wago's are just fine for high current AC or DC applications. They are rated to 32 amps and just for fun I've ran them for hours at over 50 amps without any issues. I've loaned my FLIR to a buddy or I'd take a picture of the below set up and show you. I'm cycle testing some batteries at 30 amps. The batteries are warmer than the Wago's.

We use them all the time and have never had a problem. People say they are fire hazards but there's not any evidence to support that. "Pictures or it didn't' happen". I get it, it's fun to be in the "I'm an old school electrician" tribe (30+ year master electrician here) but I'm using WAGO's on chillers motors in $30 million dollar surgery centers and I sleep just fine. Life and death sort of stuff which I take very seriously.

Hands down the best wire connector out there is an appropriately rated safety switch. You can splice together wires of large size differences in a weatherproof enclosure and you get a free disconnect while you're at it. I've picked up dozens of them on eBay for pennies on the dollar.

1712970624994.png
 
The one issue with the wagos is the tendency to have one of the levers catch onto another wire and lift it up half way but I always take electrical tape and wrap the levers so they don’t have a chance flip up. I feel completely safe using them, especially when stranded thhn is involved.
 
What's wrong with such outlet type boxes?
I've mounted them on the end of rigid conduit, spliced wires to PC wire in them, put a gasketed cover on front.
Nothing wrong with the box, you are misunderstanding the context.

The box pictured doesn't lend itself well to mounting a junction block as mentioned in this post.

It helps to read the posts ahead of the responses. :)

I know what I would do if I was the OP and have in fact done it. I gave options according to what he wants, nothing more.
 
Wago's are just fine for high current AC or DC applications. They are rated to 32 amps and just for fun I've ran them for hours at over 50 amps without any issues. I've loaned my FLIR to a buddy or I'd take a picture of the below set up and show you. I'm cycle testing some batteries at 30 amps. The batteries are warmer than the Wago's.

We use them all the time and have never had a problem. People say they are fire hazards but there's not any evidence to support that. "Pictures or it didn't' happen". I get it, it's fun to be in the "I'm an old school electrician" tribe (30+ year master electrician here) but I'm using WAGO's on chillers motors in $30 million dollar surgery centers and I sleep just fine. Life and death sort of stuff which I take very seriously.

Hands down the best wire connector out there is an appropriately rated safety switch. You can splice together wires of large size differences in a weatherproof enclosure and you get a free disconnect while you're at it. I've picked up dozens of them on eBay for pennies on the dollar.

View attachment 209044
In defense of such push in type/locking lever type connections, the NHX Hybrid inverters sold by Watts247 (made by Megarevo) uses this type of connection.

This inverter I'm still considering but the electrical connections do give me some pause. My biggest concern with any connection is whether the connection can dissipate heat as there is always some slight resistance at the connection.
 

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top