Buchanan Splice Caps and other novel splicing methods.

[SparkyJJO]

Call me stupid but I'd probably just use wire nuts. They're rated for it

 

[timselectric]

Call me stupid but I'd probably just use wire nuts. They're rated for it

Me too.
But that's not acceptable to the OP.

 

[hwy17]

Panduit EJN418-212-Q

Pre-insulated closed end crimp connector accepts 2x 12 awg. Specifically says "BLDG Wire" on the datasheet. $.39 at Digikey.




Also, Panduit PCSB4-2S-12Y, 4-14awg, $15 at digikey. Similar or identical to a Burndy unitap.

 

[Zwy]

I've used these before, pretty cheap after rebate in a 10 pack. https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444..._content=3645726&utm_campaign=King+Innovation

Only rated to 300V though.

 

[hwy17]

I've used these before, pretty cheap after rebate in a 10 pack. https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444..._content=3645726&utm_campaign=King+Innovation

Only rated to 300V though.

Darn, those are a nice form factor for a little insulated screw down lug that's not oversized.

 

[Zwy]

Darn, those are a nice form factor for a little insulated screw down lug that's not oversized.

Really these are the best and rated for 600V. https://www.menards.com/main/electr...ice-1-count/hst-wp/p-1444431009004-c-6445.htm I have 3 buried in my yard but were part of the wire splice kit with the large heat shrink. Work fine.

 

[hwy17]

Really these are the best and rated for 600V. https://www.menards.com/main/electr...ice-1-count/hst-wp/p-1444431009004-c-6445.htm I have 3 buried in my yard but were part of the wire splice kit with the large heat shrink. Work fine.

Hmm. Yes pretty nice. But it looks like the brass body carries the current. I mean I'm sure it's thick enough that it works.

 

[Zwy]

Hmm. Yes pretty nice. But it looks like the brass body carries the current. I mean I'm sure it's thick enough that it works.

If you are putting this in a box, I'd go for a junction block myself. https://www.menards.com/main/electr.../gtb-408/p-1444430999890-c-6447.htm?exp=false

 

[hwy17]

If you are putting this in a box, I'd go for a junction block myself. https://www.menards.com/main/electr.../gtb-408/p-1444430999890-c-6447.htm?exp=false

But those don't easily mount in a regular weatherproof box do they? I don't want to get into making custom boxes or weird chinese amazon stuff.

 

[Quattrohead]

Would split bolts be an option?

NO

 

[hwy17]

NO

They are legal. This one is listed for as small as 14 stranded. And electrical tape is rated for 600v.

Commercial Electric 2/0 STR to #14 SOL/STR Split Bolt Wire Connector 20SBC-B1-5 - The Home Depot

The Blackburn 2/0 STR to #14 SOL/STR Split Bolt Connector is ideal for power and grounding electrical connection applications, such as splicing, tapping and terminating conductors. The bolt and nut of

www.homedepot.com

 

[wpns]

https://www.masterappliance.com/proseal-connector-assortment-kits/ are UL rated to 600V

 

[hwy17]

Call me stupid but I'd probably just use wire nuts. They're rated for it

Me too.
But that's not acceptable to the OP.

My plan before now was wago levers. I'm just getting cold feet now.

But I'm gonna guess you two are talking about twist ons and might not reassure me about the wagos.

 

[SparkyJJO]

I don't like wagos for much other than relatively low current.

 

[timselectric]

I don't like wagos for much other than relatively low current.

Same
Light fixture connections, and that's about it.

 

[timselectric]

To be clear.
I don't use them. But I'm OK with others using them.
Service calls are easy money.

 

[Hedges]

Agreed and I would believe in that for splicing two clean straight solid wires. But for 12 awg stranded, my mind just imagines the set screw twisting them up or a couple hairs ending up straddling the screw instead of compressed by it.

Is the screw wider than the barrel of the connector so they can't end up either side of it?

Haven't had either of those problems.

Screw is just as wide as ID. So far they've worked pretty well for me. Sometimes have difficulty unscrewing cap if stuffed with wires to setscrew drags on it.

I think we're supposed to twist wire together before putting in connector. I don't at least for lab use. With widely varying wire size that isn't always secure.

Comes with a plastic tool to hold small or large brass connector while you tighten screw.

I haven't looked thoroughly, but I believe those are not usually both 600v rated and UL listed/rated. In my case these are for inside a weatherproof box like this with a gasket sealed cover plate:

View attachment 208891

That's how I transition from conduit to PV wire. Glands available with 2, 4, other number of holes in insert to seal to wire. If wires can enter through another hole on bottom, then drip proof and seal not so important.

Also PVC boxes. My surface mount exterior conduit was originally PVC until a later inspector said not for exposed horizontal runs, so I redid with rigid.

Call me stupid but I'd probably just use wire nuts. They're rated for it

I did originally.
Later realized SMA manual said not to use them. Concern was arcing causing failure of inverter.
Not sure they're any more subject to coming lose and arcing than others.

A few more connector types. DIN rail, more convenient in a combiner box.



There are also some that work similar to Wago but with screwdriver in slot to spring open, rather than a plastic lever. Used in some SMA inverters.

I tend to favor connectors with wire to wire compression or heavy barrel, rather than the ones with sheet metal spring.

 

[timselectric]

But I'm gonna guess you two are talking about twist ons

Yes
Preference is ideal wingnuts.

 

[Tulex]

I used something similar to This to connect my pv wires to my THHN.

 

[SparkyJJO]

Yes
Preference is ideal wingnuts.

Those are my go to as well.
Don't care for the fat round ones so much.