diy solar

diy solar

Mounting solar panels on a 40 foot container?

It is interesting that your peak is like 3 hrs before mine (2pm vs 5pm). You can adjust things. If you want later peak, you go more vertical. If you want earlier peak you can angle the panels more. Me, I wanted more power later in the afternoon. As late as possible and practical.
Yes I had originally envisioned mine at more like 45 degrees. But after I set the foundations I did more production math and realized a shallower angle was gonna reduce the overall year round penalty.

Eventually I want to add some south facing arrays as well, and if I had some of those for "bulk" production I'd consider tipping my west array up.
 
Pretty much. South panels are 20 pc 310 watts so 6100w, West panels are 325 x 19 panels so 6175w .
West panels peak 4.4 kw at 5:15pm
South pole tops peak 12:00pm 4,900W

Suggesting longer path through atmosphere doesn't make much difference, and you can't over-panel without clipping.
Of course, over-paneling would reduce drop-off in production for other seasons.
Good to know when favoring hours of peak rates.
 
Really cool set-up! the solar cube :) It looks like you basically built an 'exoskeleton' of 2x4s around the structure?

We have a 40ft, high cube as well and I've been mulling over how to mount them on the roof. At our spot the recommendation is due south at 32 degrees. This is perfect because our container is east/west lengthwise. Any suggestions?

Related to this - how have you taken care to protect your roof from rust / sitting water? Our container is old so this feels like a battle I really need to be proactive on, getting rust off, repainting etc..
 
Thanks! It was an interesting build. Yes, exoskeleton. Here is a pic that shows it. There are no holes in the container wall or roof. Just to bottom rail. I put 4"x4" beams in the bottom channel and drilled and bolted them. They hold all of it up.The verticals are 10' 2x4's. The panels are held in by a rail at the top and bottom. The rail is large enough so that any panel can be put it or taken out easily, but still so secure that they can't fall out by themselves. The bottom panels are sitting on the 4x4.The top panes are side ways and are supported by the horizontal 2x4" Less panes in it so less weight to support. So far so good. You could do an exoskeleton also or weld brackets on. I've been thinking that an ideal situation would be 40' high cube situate N-S with panes on walls and roof. E and West walls produce power in the AM and PM, roof makes power during the day. A benefit of the panels is they they will probably keep the container cooler because they shade the metal walls. You could do 6kw + 6+ kw + say 10KW +/- if you also do a roof overhang. 16kw on a container!

Ours has some dents but leak free. Neighbor has a reefer container that he says leaks. I suggested puting a plastic sheet on the bottom and then putting his roof frame made of 2'6's over that. Anchor to side of container with hurricane ties. No penetrations in the roof that way. Plus the solar panes keep the UV off of the plastic and make it leek free. heavy duty pond liner 41' long 10' wide, attach things to top side ? No holes in the roof that way.

If you have room cover it all with panels . They are cheap enough to to that. We paid $100 for 325w panels. Could have gotten them for $50 when they were on sale.
E-W lengthswise - you mean the long side is facing e-w direction? Ok. Ours is vertical. Nothing to say you can't angel the panels at 32 deg. Seen people do that also. "Container Guy" on Youtube has angled brackets that you can pull away form the wall.

By the way, we also sealed behind the panels so mice could not get behind them and cause trouble.
Might be able to seal roof with car undercoating or roofing tar.

The top 2x8 is attached to a structure on the other side of the container. So it is secure. Making about 20-22kwh now (June) Peak solar is now 4pm. Used to be more like 1pm.
 

Attachments

  • West Panels 02.JPG
    West Panels 02.JPG
    114.7 KB · Views: 6
Last edited:
Ours has some dents but leak free. Neighbor has a reefer container that he says leaks. I suggested puting a plastic sheet on the bottom and then putting his roof frame made of 2'6's over that. Anchor to side of container with hurricane ties. No penetrations in the roof that way. Plus the solar panes keep the UV off of the plastic and make it leek free. heavy duty pond liner 41' long 10' wide, attach things to top side ? No holes in the roof that way.

If you have room cover it all with panels . They are cheap enough to to that. We paid $100 for 325w panels. Could have gotten them for $50 when they were on sale.
E-W lengthswise - you mean the long side is facing e-w direction? Ok. Ours is vertical. Nothing to say you can't angel the panels at 32 deg. Seen people do that also. "Container Guy" on Youtube has angled brackets that you can pull away form the wall.
Thanks for the follow up.

What kind of rails are you using?

I am overwhelmed by the zillion results on Amazon etc when I look for mounting solutions.

That is a really interesting idea - use some sort of sheeting or underlayment then essentially deck it with 2x6s. Then secure with hurricane ties. Thanks for the idea.

Direction wise, what I meant is that door opens to the east, back faces the west. We have a long north side and a long south side.

I have attached a picture of my inverter set up that is waiting for use. Still need batteries and more panels. I assume you have all you stuff inside container? Then wired to building where you need power?

What climate zone are you in? Have you noticed how the batteries / panels affect temps inside?

Probably won’t do any serious mounting til next spring but I could prep with underpayment and 2x6s later this year.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2057.jpeg
    IMG_2057.jpeg
    105.2 KB · Views: 3
My neighbor did a similar system. He used 2 x 6 x 16 feet long and made a roof or frame on top of the container. Same as normal house framing. Used hurricane ties to attach the framing to the side of the container. So only holes in the side of the container. He also use the pond liner on the top of the container to keep water out. His frames were basically 2 x 6 lumber. He made it 16 feet wide so the container would have shading on the sides. You could do it that way or just put a vertical wall on yours. No, the containers just for storage. All the electrical equipment is somewhere else. If used for electrical equipment, I would certainly consider a refrigerated container since those are made to keep food frozen and they already come insulated. No need to mess with two by fours and fiberglass. Don’t have any batteries yet, but trying to figure out how to do this new non-export stuff. It’s a completely different world than net metering. The shipping container might be a good place to put batteries, though since they are flammable, we need to have something relatively fireproof. Of course, only the floor on a regular shipping container can burn. But again, if you get a refrigerated container that is completely non-flammable, including the floor. Only stainless steel and aluminum. And it’s insulated and will keep stuff cool. Most people never think about refrigerated containers, but if it’s a habitable place or you need to temperature control it I think it’s the only way to go. Normal shipping containers are great for storing items and keeping rodents and insects out but not for much else. Once you start having to insulate and do two by fours and sheet rock you might as well just buy the reefer to begin with. Cost will probably end up the same, but the reefer will be 10 times better.
 

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top