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SunGold Power SP6548 Flickering lights after new install

Got bored and went back to messing with things. Checked all the AC and DC wiring and connections again, nothing there. Did find that the hertz output of the dimmer at minimum on the inverter is half of what the grid measured but, the voltage was the same. Not sure how they work but that is at least something.
 
What model of Reliance transfer switch do you have? Your discussion about wiring the neutral is confusing as the neutral in the transfer switch should be nothing more than a pass-thru of what would be the neutral coming from a generator to the neutral in your main panel. It's usually just a piece of wire going from the input socket to the neutral bonding point of your main panel.
 
nofear72784 said:
Got bored and went back to messing with things. Checked all the AC and DC wiring and connections again, nothing there. Did find that the hertz output of the dimmer at minimum on the inverter is half of what the grid measured but, the voltage was the same. Not sure how they work but that is at least something.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the dimmer is not tracking the waveform properly-- not really "true sine wave." Would be good to find out the V(THD) for the inverter output, but the scope read will be interesting.
 
shopman said:
What model of Reliance transfer switch do you have? Your discussion about wiring the neutral is confusing as the neutral in the transfer switch should be nothing more than a pass-thru of what would be the neutral coming from a generator to the neutral in your main panel. It's usually just a piece of wire going from the input socket to the neutral bonding point of your main panel
Click to expand...
That's correct. It is simply a pass though to the main panel. The neutral ground bond screw in the inverter was removed since I am using a generator transfer panel and not a true sub panel. The neutral and grnd are already bonded on the house side whether the inverter is in bypass or battery mode.
 
Shimmy said:
Sounds like the dimmer is not tracking the waveform properly-- not really "true sine wave." Would be good to find out the V(THD) for the inverter output, but the scope read will be interesting.
Click to expand...
It will be interesting. They do not give any specs on THD I read through the manual and online material several times now.
 
When you increased the load to 2kW, did you do this with a purely resistive load? I've noticed some inverters have trouble with LEDs because of their power factor, which is often at or below 0.4 - so very reactive. You could try to add one non-led bulb in your fixture, or just add a purely resistive load on the inverter (coffee maker would do) and see if the flicker gets less/goes away.
 
Just gave it a try with a 1200w space heater, no change in the flickering. Adding an incan bulb to places like an office with just 1 fixture kinda stinks. Point is to save energy not use more to help the inverter figure things out. If my other cheap pure sine inverters run these loads directly and don't have an issue this certainly should. The more I mess around the more I am leaning towards a faulty unit or a bad inverter design. Anxiously and nervously awaiting the delivery of a oscilloscope. Will be a nightmare to send this back and wait weeks for them to verify and send another.
 
nofear72784 said:
That's correct. It is simply a pass though to the main panel. The neutral ground bond screw in the inverter was removed since I am using a generator transfer panel and not a true sub panel. The neutral and grnd are already bonded on the house side whether the inverter is in bypass or battery mode.
Click to expand...
Ok. That's the correct way to wire it. Any time one of these inverters comes up where you have to remove a screw, I question as to whether or not it actually removes the neutral/ground bond. You might want to verify that with a meter.

I'm running a similar setup with a Reliance switch, 8kw low frequency Growatt and Lutron dimmers with Cree floods. We have absolutely no flickering with this setup. The only flickering I ever see is with the cheap LED bulbs from Home Depot we use in a few locations, and that flickering is always due to temporary loads on the system(refrigerator starting, washing machine tumbling, etc.). It will be interesting to see what your scope reveals.
 
Unfortunately the flickering is constant. I could deal with flickering when loads change. Not a bad idea, I can do that
 
So much for next day. Amazon kicked the scope delivery to tomorrow. One more day for answers.
 
nofear72784 said:
That's correct. It is simply a pass though to the main panel. The neutral ground bond screw in the inverter was removed since I am using a generator transfer panel and not a true sub panel. The neutral and grnd are already bonded on the house side whether the inverter is in bypass or battery mode.
Click to expand...
Model of transfer switch?

This actually could be a result of removing the ground bond screw in the unit. You did wire in the ac input of the inverter for bypass mode?

As the transfer switch is neutral pass thru, how did you wire up the inverter output neutral?
 
Zwy said:
Model of transfer switch?

This actually could be a result of removing the ground bond screw in the unit. You did wire in the ac input of the inverter for bypass mode?

As the transfer switch is neutral pass thru, how did you wire up the inverter output neutral?
Click to expand...
AC input is wired in. On ac bypass the neutral and ground are unbonded. In battery mode they are bonded, so I lifted that bond per the instructions from Reliance and NEC. The inverter neutral goes to the reliance panel which is just a pass though to the main buss bar. I can put the screw back in but then I wouldn't I have 2 loops?
 
Since it is grid connected is there another way this is handling the neutral ground bond that is not documented? They really need to send proper electrical schematics with these Taiwanese inverters. Guessing is dangerous.
 
If ground and neutral are bonded in your main, and the inverter neutral output is connected to the main's neutral bus, then yes you have the proper G-N bond and you don't need to muck around with it. Do make sure your inverter is grounded to the same common ground bus as all other grounds.
 
Bummed it did not show today. Going to be interesting trying to get the unit exchanged. Took a long time to come in and it was already inspected. Likely the city will require another permit fee
 
Why? If it is the same thing, then I don't see why they would need to even be bothered about it.
 
The installer refuses to come back and swap the unit without the OK of the inspector. So I am expecting him to say I need another permit. He has been an ABSOLUTE PIA! Everything has been a fight with this guy.
 
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