timselectric
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The ground is not a current carrying conductor. (Unless there's a fault)
So, it can be outside of the conduit. Although it's best to keep everything together.
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6500ex "AC" ground wire awg?
- Thread starter jfharper
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So, it can be outside of the conduit. Although it's best to keep everything together.
timselectric
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It can.Can the ground be a bare wire?
But I prefer insulated. To avoid unintended contact points.
Is that what they mean when they say a parallel circuit? Some of the calculators want to know about parallel circuit...I never really knew what that meant.No
All conductors of a feeder or circuit, must travel together. In the same conduit or cable. The AC current creates a magnetic field around the conductors. The magnetic fields cancel each other out. If there is any barrier between them (Metal being the worst) , They can overheat.
timselectric
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When a circuit amperage gets large enough. It can be cheaper to run two smaller conductors than a single larger one.Is that what they mean when they say a parallel circuit? Some of the calculators want to know about parallel circuit...I never really knew what that meant.
But this isn't allowed by NEC until the two conductors are at least #1/0 in size. (Minimum parallel conductor size is #1/0)
I was also considering just running everything with 4 AWG left over from the 100ft run. But I just realized it's harder to work with for the short runs.
Is there any other downside to just using 4 AWG to wire short distances for a few feet, such as from inverter to subpanel, etc? The biggest breaker I will be using is 60A (48A load) . I'm thinking of maybe buying some 6 AWG or 8 AWG for those shorter runs, but I already have the 4 AWG wire.
Is there any other downside to just using 4 AWG to wire short distances for a few feet, such as from inverter to subpanel, etc? The biggest breaker I will be using is 60A (48A load) . I'm thinking of maybe buying some 6 AWG or 8 AWG for those shorter runs, but I already have the 4 AWG wire.
timselectric
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Running bigger is fine. But it's harder to work with.I was also considering just running everything with 4 AWG left over from the 100ft run. But I just realized it's harder to work with for the short runs.
Is there any other downside to just using 4 AWG to wire short distances for a few feet, such as from inverter to subpanel, etc? The biggest breaker I will be using is 60A (48A load) . I'm thinking of maybe buying some 6 AWG or 8 AWG for those shorter runs, but I already have the 4 AWG wire.
Thanks. So can I run the PV cable from solar panels to inverter without conduit?Running bigger is fine. But it's harder to work with.
teal95
Solar Enthusiast
Nope, PV cable has to be in metallic conduit inside a building.
What about outside? How do I run it until it gets inside?Nope, PV cable has to be in metallic conduit inside a building.
teal95
Solar Enthusiast
Under the panels it's run as individual wires. For me I only had a few inches before the roof penetration so mine is all in metal conduit.
timselectric
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It depends on where the conductors are running.Thanks. So can I run the PV cable from solar panels to inverter without conduit?
Under the panels, no conduit needed.
Across a roof, must be in conduit.
Underground, can be directly buried if the conductors are rated for it.(but I would still recommend conduit)
Inside the house, must be in metal conduit.
Let's say I want to do an outside mount for my inverter. Can I just run the PV cable from the panels to the inverter? Do I need conduit for that if underground is not an option?
And can I wire the inverter to the subpanel using flexible conduit?
And can I wire the inverter to the subpanel using flexible conduit?
timselectric
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All conductors must be rated for the environment that they are in. And protected from physical damage.
The same goes for equipment.
The same goes for equipment.
One part of my design isn't going to adhere to this currently. Off the Main, the bottom 100a feeds a panel that feeds an existing feed with #8 (L1,L2,N,G#10) N&G I didn't draw, in the ground already that I'll be switching on (grid feed) when needed. I'm adding a #4 neutral to this path from the inverters along with the hots in new conduit. So there will be two neutrals connected all the time in separate conduits...I cannot run the #4 in the same as the existing #8. Should I run a breaker on the neutrals to keep them separate and force them to use the appropriate feed in associated conduit so they can do that electromagnetic cancel thing you mentioned? I think the panels I'm buying have this plug on neutral feature...if I get breakers that handle the two hots and neutral...maybe that will fix it?You are using some existing conductors and new conductors.
I'm not sure if I mentioned this previously.
Make sure that you don't split up the conductors of a single feeder.
All conductors of a feeder (L1, L2, N, G) must travel together. In the same conduit or cable.
EDIT: I think I figured it out...I'll just run 2 new hot #8's in the new conduit that will have the 6 #4, derate 70% (although one circuit will never be on with the other so 80% derate should work) puts me at 66amps for the #4 and 38amps for the #8. It's an extra 100 bucks but I think it should work. So they will share the #4 neutral on the shop subpanel...the generator lockout will control this.
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timselectric
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Why two neutrals, if you don't need them both?One part of my design isn't going to adhere to this currently. Off the Main, the bottom 100a feeds a panel that feeds an existing feed with #8 (L1,L2,N,G#10) N&G I didn't draw, in the ground already that I'll be switching on (grid feed) when needed. I'm adding a #4 neutral to this path from the inverters along with the hots in new conduit. So there will be two neutrals connected all the time in separate conduits...I cannot run the #4 in the same as the existing #8. Should I run a breaker on the neutrals to keep them separate and force them to use the appropriate feed in associated conduit so they can do that electromagnetic cancel thing you mentioned? I think the panels I'm buying have this plug on neutral feature...if I get breakers that handle the two hots and neutral...maybe that will fix it?
Plug on neutral panels are for GFCI and AFCI breakers.
The existing #8 isn't large enough for the inverter 60amp needed. Need to add a #4, but it won't be in the same conduit as the #8.Why two neutrals, if you don't need them both?
Plug on neutral panels are for GFCI and AFCI breakers.
timselectric
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I'm confused. If the hots are #8 , why do you want a #4 neutral?The existing #8 isn't large enough for the inverter 60amp needed. Need to add a #4, but it won't be in the same conduit as the #8.
At the shop subpanel, when the 60amp inverter is ON.I'm confused. If the hots are #8 , why do you want a #4 neutral?
I'll sketch it out...I'm confused. If the hots are #8 , why do you want a #4 neutral?
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