I've got the manual!
Also the inverter is set at 11.8-14.6v as of now.
Are there any inverter/charges for under $500 that don't suck?
- Thread starter mateo
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Also the inverter is set at 11.8-14.6v as of now.
Hi Steve,
It could be a HF inverter but a photo with the cover off shows a toroidal transformer. The description indicates the weight is 27kg's but the spec sheet indicates it weighs 17/18kg's. But the thing is I don't see a surge rating for it. However it is possible to get a LF inverter at that price or less.
I was considering this one but unfortunately they are out of the 24 volt model and so is Amazon. So I contacted Top One Power in China and the price they quoted me was a little more than if I could buy it from the USA website. Top One Power is the manufacturer for AMPINVT inverters which also use toroidal transformers.
Thanks. The low voltage is good and you should be able to set your BMS to cut off at 2.5 volts without any problems. I guess you could use the BMS to cut off at whatever high voltage you want since you don't have any choice but to have them set those voltages. But 14.6 may be a little too high, and may not protect your cells if the BMS fails. I see the inverter is programmable for different batteries. Can they also set the voltages for those parameters? Like something between 13.8 and 14.6 volts?
Good to know mine could still be a LF haha
And huh I didn't think to do that and forgot to check this thread again. Might be too late. But also, is that the only difference in charging different battery types? Cuz I see lithium specific components and lead-acid specific stuff like MPPTs and is the compatibility solely the voltages? Interesting.
Also, if the vast majority of my power comes from solar panels going through my mppt, are the inverter's voltages as relevant? As it will mostly be converting power from DC to AC? Or am I getting that wrong and electricity just be flowing everywhere all the time all willy nilly
Glad it helped you!
This is the one I got:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2KW-DC12-o...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I have no idea if it's good or bad, mine's set to come in march/april. But it's a 2kw for a solid price. I'm new to this so other's might have better advice than me
You can use any setting if they left any settings open for you to use. Of course you do not want to use the De-sulphation cycle. If you used the lead acid setting you would be limiting the charge to 3.4 volts per cell. There is not much capacity to be gained above 3.4 volts and 3.0 volts at the bottom. You would be leaving around 20% on the table but extending the life of the cells. I don't see anything mentioned relating to float voltages in the manual....just find that interesting.
The thing is you don't know yet how well your cells will balance once you parallel top balance. They should not deviate too much at the top. I have 8 cells in series and so far have charged them at 12 amps and discharged at 15 amps. My cells difference at the top between the lowest and highest cell is 100mv's. The difference at the bottom is .5 volts.
Hardly anyone fully charges or discharges their battery. Between 25.35 and 27.25 is the sweet spot for my pack before the cells start to deviate from each other more than 20mv's. The full capacity of my EVE 280 cells is 272ah's. The usable capacity between the sweet spot of my cells is 250ah's.
I suggest you ask the company which of the U0 through U7 settings they left for you to use and which one of those settings is set at 14.6 volts. You need to know. While you are at it ask if it is a LF inverter and what the surge capability is. From what I know, a LF inverter rated at 2000 watts can handle a surge of 6000 watts for up to 20 seconds.
As far as the solar side...I can't use solar because I am in an apartment so I have not looked into it.
I admire your bravery on taking a chance on a not so well known company. It will be interesting to see what you think of the product once you receive it. Looking forward to your 20 page review....lol.
I also linked to a 2000 watt inverter for less than $500 in my post above.
Bud Martin
Solar Wizard
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Please let us know how it woks, with $100 off is pretty price and I have been looking at LF inverter for awhile now, I hope you can also take the pictures of the inside, thanks. BTW, what did you do toget lower price? I contact YIYEN directly on ALIBABA but the total price is higher than what I can buy on EBAY.
I'll throw my 2c in :
diysolarforum.com
diysolarforum.com
Both are low frequency pure sine wave inverters, with built in MPPT. In the case of the Snadi the High and Low voltage limits were factory set according to the EVE data sheet I sent them, with a safety margin. I particularly like the breaker switches for the battery and PV solar on the Snadi, the USB and DC outputs, and that the large fan is variable speed (and runs at a constant low speed).
Foshan SNAT SNADI hybrid all in one
I thought I would make a post about my new Foshan SNADI / SNAT all in one. Looking at inverters, the options are high frequency and low frequency, and of the low freqency they tend to be either elongated or rectangular, with or without an solar charger. Whilst many have posted their wall...
diysolarforum.com
Mini review of Xindun Power Low Frequency Inverter
Following my 48V Foshan SNADI All-in-one review, I also purchased a 24V low frequency pure sine wave inverter from Guangdong Xindun Power Technology Co.,Ltd. My sales representative Cindy Lee was extremely helpful and a pleasure to deal with...
diysolarforum.com
Both are low frequency pure sine wave inverters, with built in MPPT. In the case of the Snadi the High and Low voltage limits were factory set according to the EVE data sheet I sent them, with a safety margin. I particularly like the breaker switches for the battery and PV solar on the Snadi, the USB and DC outputs, and that the large fan is variable speed (and runs at a constant low speed).
I just asked. I inquired to jackyzhang910 asking about a 2Kw inverter, she sent me that link, which totals to $460 with shipping, and I said I had to think about it because I was trying to keep my total price under $400. And she offered to shave the price down by I think $85, so not quite $100, but still a solid chunk.
Though to be honest I am second guessing this decision.. Some of the unknowns that people are bringing up and the lack of clarity with the manual are making me wonder. I really like the look of the one Gazoo posted above as I see it is definitely a LF, clearly has 6kw surge, and also voltage is customizable.
charly
New Member
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got that link she sent?
EDIT: nevermind, misread your post, the previous link is what you were referring to. thanks,
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I do too but remember it is not a cream of the crop inverter either. I don't know what the voltage settings limits are. The settings on the Samlex EVO inverters is mind boggling...but they are very expensive. The AMPINVT is better known than the inverter you ordered and is sold on Amazon.
If you can ask jackyzhang910 the questions I posted above and you get a favorable response, especially if it is a LF inverter and you can use the other charge profile settings, then you might be happy with it.
charly
New Member
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Here is the 2kw AMPINVT listing on Amazon :
And it has this listed there:
DC 12V Inverter :13.6-14.9VDC
DC 24V Inverter :27.2-29.8VDC
DC 48V Inverter :54.4-59.6VDC
And it has this listed there:
Mains Charging Voltage is adjustable
DC 12V Inverter :13.6-14.9VDC
DC 24V Inverter :27.2-29.8VDC
DC 48V Inverter :54.4-59.6VDC
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
That's the difference between Tier-1 Product versus Tier-3.
No comment on "Value" car stuff... level gear.
Points that few pay attention to, until afterwards and then they kick themselves for it but never admit to it.
1) Inverter Efficiency: Yiyen / Sigineer for example are 88% +/- a bit. Samlex EVO 94% efficient.
2) Standby power consumption ! Samlex uses 30W without powersaver My Yiyen uses 47W without powersaver.
They may be apples but there are many varieties of apples from very sweet "Delicious" to sour crab apples.
Asking those questions! We'll see..
Good to know I can 2-day that to me if this one craps out on me!
Also, I was wondering, does anybody use two inverters, one big and one little?
I'll explain..
The only AC load I require running 24/7 is my mini fridge which is I believe only 50-60W, and other than that my basic electric needs will be DC (lights, electronics charging, fans, etc..)
So it seems sort of silly to have an inverter that draws power on standby when I am barely using any of its power.
Is it logical to get a small 150W inverter (something like this, but would maybe try and find a 150w) and run the fridge off of that 24/7, and then only turn on and use the full size 2Kw inverter when necessary?
I'll explain..
The only AC load I require running 24/7 is my mini fridge which is I believe only 50-60W, and other than that my basic electric needs will be DC (lights, electronics charging, fans, etc..)
So it seems sort of silly to have an inverter that draws power on standby when I am barely using any of its power.
Is it logical to get a small 150W inverter (something like this, but would maybe try and find a 150w) and run the fridge off of that 24/7, and then only turn on and use the full size 2Kw inverter when necessary?
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
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Question would be whether the small inverter could start the motor in your fridge. Assume 5x the amperage/wattage rating on the label.
What percentage of the time is refrigerator on?
You could get an inverter with sleep mode, where it wakes up periodically to see if there is a load.
You could switch it off at night, make it coast on the cold it's built up, so less battery needed (for a system charged by PV)
By start is that referring to getting the mini fridge cold the very first time?
Or does it peak every time the mini fridge turns on throughout the day?
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
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Starting surge meaning every time the motor is turned on.
Induction motors draw several times as much current for about 0.1 second, compared to what they draw when running.
I've measured (with a scope) the starting and running current for a 480W window air conditioner and a 1.5 HP compressor, but not any of my refrigerators.
The refrigerators I did test (running current and on/off ratio only) were older, full size ones that drew about 200 to 300W. Some people here have small ones like yours, down around 50W.
Maybe 300W would be good enough to start that, while 150W might not.
Operating current would vary depending on temperature differential, maybe 2:1. It would work harder on a hot day.
Ideally you find an inverter that can handle your largest loads which also has a low power sleep mode.
