diy solar

diy solar

Benchtop Power Supply for under $100.

Am I understanding correctly that you would use this to get your drained cells from 2.5v or whatever up to 3.3v (roughly 70% SOC), then use the 3.6v mean well to finish the job?
It is adjustable upt to 3.65 volts but I might go only to 3.6 volts. My cells won't arrive drained. They ship at about 50% and measure 3.2 to 3.3 volts. Earlier I had speculated that I could do a two step process with a different model but this one could do the whole charge. I might be doing 16 cells so if they are at 50% SOC that means I would have to put over 2,000 Amphours into them which could take a day and a half at 60 Amps per hour.
 
It is adjustable upt to 3.65 volts but I might go only to 3.6 volts. My cells won't arrive drained. They ship at about 50% and measure 3.2 to 3.3 volts. Earlier I had speculated that I could do a two step process with a different model but this one could do the whole charge. I might be doing 16 cells so if they are at 50% SOC that means I would have to put over 2,000 Amphours into them which could take a day and a half at 60 Amps per hour.
Oh, right, I missed that the psu is adjustable. I didn’t realize some of them had this feature, thought you’d have to buy a converter of some sort to get that. Good to know.
 
Or this one to get me 60 Amps:

It is about $40 plus shipping.
That may not be the best meanwell power supply for the purpose. It lists the protection as "hiccup mode" from what I understand this will not work well for this purpose (it is not current limiting).

The HRP, HRPG, and some models of the RSP series might be better fits

The...
RSP-500-3.3 or RSP-150-3.3,
HRP-300-3.3,
HRPG-300-3.3
...all have the "constant current limiting" protection mode.

An additional benefit of the RSP-500 is it has remote control (as do some of the other models) and remote sense (which means it can be setup to compensate for voltage drop). But one downside is the 3V model tops out at 3.6V and the 4V model starts at 3.6V, so there is not a model that gives you the full useful range (unless you never plan to charge to 3.65)

Voltage adjustment range varies between the different PSU's. Most can be adjusted in the ballpark of 3.0-3.8, but some--including the RSP-500--top out closer to 3.60

It is important to note that the features and specs of these power supplies can be subtly different. Even within a certain product line (RSP-500, RSP-150, and RSP-320 have different features and protections for instance).

If you search meanwell on this forum there are a few good posts discussing all this in more detail.
 
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That may not be the best meanwell power supply for the purpose.........
Thanks, that is good to know. My existing 30 Amp one is SP and does have current limiting mode. I will be careful to watch for that.
That would explain why another inexpensive one I bought on Ebay worked between a current limiting device and batteries for a long time, but the one time I hooked it up to a battery the smoke came out.
 
I don't have one, but look at the pictures, I noticed a label. Chance Electric. Could that be slightly suggestive or prophetic ? just sayin'
 
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Besides the discomforting name “Chance Electric”, this review has me concerned on a few levels: “Since the order in 13 days! The BP fan turns on only when heated, what!? Check yet failed, everything is adjustable, there are multi-werewolf summaries, satisfied while”

I do not want multiple werewolves anywhere near my batteries, even if they only come out once or twice a month.
 
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Or this one to get me 60 Amps:

It is about $40 plus shipping.
That particular model line can't be turned into a LFP charger as it's not a current limiting power supply. A HRP, PSP or a RSP would work as they are current limiting and will reduce their voltage to avoid over-amping themselves, a LRS just turns itself off for a bit, then brielfly back on to see if the overload is still there and then blinks back off and will continue doing that until the overload is relieved.
 
That particular model line can't be turned into a LFP charger as it's not a current limiting power supply. A HRP, PSP or a RSP would work as they are current limiting and will reduce their voltage to avoid over-amping themselves, a LRS just turns itself off for a bit, then brielfly back on to see if the overload is still there and then blinks back off and will continue doing that until the overload is relieved.
@Maast just a heads up, the RSP line is not uniform, not all of them are current limiting and not all have the same features. The RSP-320 (60A) version for instance only has 'hiccup mode'. Best to specify a specific model with this line as the feature set is different depending on the specific model / rating.
 
I don't have one, but look at the pictures, I noticed a label. Chance Electric. Could that be slightly suggestive or prophetic ? just sayin'

About 2 weeks ago we were ordering some large fuses from a Chinese company called RIZKY Electrical ... we just all decided it was tooo much of an omen and went with a more expensive brand ...
 
I don't trust power supply current limits. Usually very sloppy, and not meant for constant use. I hope they have fan cooling.
LiFePO4 are expensive, why take chances?. I will buy quality charge equipment, like Victron.
 
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BEWARE. Many Solar Charge Controllers are Positive Ground. A Negative Ground Supply will bypass the regulation on CC negative legs. Many DC-DC converters are negative ground, bad. Some power supplies are floating outputs, OK.
 
About 2 weeks ago we were ordering some large fuses from a Chinese company called RIZKY Electrical ... we just all decided it was tooo much of an omen and went with a more expensive brand ...
When it comes to Fuses, Eaton/Bussman (now same company) are really the way to go. They will pop WHENB they are supposed to and reliably & consistently as well. Tests of "offbrand" are available everywhere, on YT and elsewhere) and they consistently show to avoid "no names & off-brands" unless you like risk... Saving a few pennies here & there can cost you Many Many Pennies and quickly....
 
When it comes to Fuses, Eaton/Bussman (now same company) are really the way to go. They will pop WHENB they are supposed to and reliably & consistently as well. Tests of "offbrand" are available everywhere, on YT and elsewhere) and they consistently show to avoid "no names & off-brands" unless you like risk... Saving a few pennies here & there can cost you Many Many Pennies and quickly....
yep we use nothing but EATON and Bussman ... my college roommate works for EATON ... the fuses that we were buying from RIZKY was for a side project that we are doing for one of the contractors that is trying to build something for the security trailer ... very cheaply
 
I bought the one Will suggests, Eventek, I found it on amazon and it arrived in 4 days, I am trying it out now. $65
 
I need suggestion for a 60V bench power supply, I don't need that many amps.

My Eventek is working great but maxes out at 32.2 V.

I checked amazon and I did not find an Eventek 60V version.

I wanted to get a DROK boost the beefy one, but it is out of stock everywhere.
 
I need suggestion for a 60V bench power supply, I don't need that many amps.

My Eventek is working great but maxes out at 32.2 V.

I checked amazon and I did not find an Eventek 60V version.

I wanted to get a DROK boost the beefy one, but it is out of stock everywhere.
Riden sells 6, 12 and 18 amp 0-60v bench power supplies. Search RD6006 on Aliexpress. I have just purchased the 18A version based on reviews here and YouTube, haven’t received it yet though so can’t comment myself. It seems fairly well regarded and there is even a Russian guy who has coded custom firmware for it. Worth a look.
 
4 pages and no one has mentioned this...

Anyone have an old Computer Power Supply of the ATX Variety ?
If not, they can be had everywhere & anywhere for CHEAP !

There are ATX Power Supply boards readily available & CHEAP ! Some have adjustable current & voltage and various voltage plugs. All you have to do is plug the power supply into them and your good to go.

One such product but there are many variations out there.
Amazon.com: ATX Power Supply Breakout Board and Acrylic Case Kit. with ADJ Adjustable Voltage Knob, Supports 3.3V, 5V, 12V and 1.5V-9.0V (ADJ) Output Voltage, 2A Maximum Output, Reset Protection.: Industrial & Scientific
 
Riden sells 6, 12 and 18 amp 0-60v bench power supplies. Search RD6006 on Aliexpress. I have just purchased the 18A version based on reviews here and YouTube, haven’t received it yet though so can’t comment myself. It seems fairly well regarded and there is even a Russian guy who has coded custom firmware for it. Worth a look.

I like the Riden 18A version, but I read that the power supply they sell with it is inadequate?
What would a comparable meanwell or similar power supply we can use?
 
4 pages and no one has mentioned this...

Anyone have an old Computer Power Supply of the ATX Variety ?
If not, they can be had everywhere & anywhere for CHEAP !

There are ATX Power Supply boards readily available & CHEAP ! Some have adjustable current & voltage and various voltage plugs. All you have to do is plug the power supply into them and your good to go.

One such product but there are many variations out there.
Amazon.com: ATX Power Supply Breakout Board and Acrylic Case Kit. with ADJ Adjustable Voltage Knob, Supports 3.3V, 5V, 12V and 1.5V-9.0V (ADJ) Output Voltage, 2A Maximum Output, Reset Protection.: Industrial & Scientific
Steve,
I have a bunch of ATX power supplies,
I am not sure how to use them for CC/CV for higher volts?
I just bought a 800w PS for my kids gaming PC I am going to build as soon as I can get my hands on a RTX 3070 :), so it is sitting idle,

Back on topic - I see the breakout board has 3.3 volts,

Are ATX power supplies CC? or current limiting?
Each arm of the supply I believe has limited Amps available. not sure if the board is combining all the output into one.
 
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