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changing Mode on Growatt MIC-Series changes rated output power

I have now tried all the variants found on the Internet for the key ("growatt"+yyyymmdd", only "yyyymmdd", "inverter"+yyyymmdd), nothing helps, I always get "Key Wrong" as an answer. Did Growatt changed the key, or am I too blonde?
It would be nice if someone could try out if and which key currently works. Many thanks in advance! :)

EDIT: I found the error, accidentally used the old Growatt server page....
How did you get the Password correctly
 
Good Morning,

I am wondering if there is a chance to upgrade a MIC 600 Growatt to a MIC 3000 just by editing the digits.

Any experiences?

Thanks for your help
 
I have a 1000-s at home and when looking at the specs, it has the same as the 1500-s. but when reading reg 121, I get a 0. writing to it is not possible.
the question is now, if it is also possible to modify the old S series to produce more power?!

thank you for any help
be carefull what you are doing cause no one will help you in the way you are playing around.
You can kill the system that it will not boot and growatt will reject the warranty cause obviously they know when at what date and time you had tried to fool them.

It is your risk and I can tell you as 2000-S owner that your system has NOTHING TO DO with the current series mic or min this topis is about.
I also have 16 growatt inverters all from the mic 600 to mic 3000 where also not all are the same, only some. Same for our Min 4600 and SPH 4600. Each has its own features, functions and registers.

And if someone does not like you it is easy to fool you and let yourself destroy your own inverter by giving you the wrong settings that will break it.
Again: Growatt knows what you are doing and therefore no warranty and repairs can become as expensive as a new inverter.
The 1000-S is a small one and it still costs here - if it becomes available used about 400€ !
Better sell this one as it is cause it is still running and then get a mic 600 to follow this guideline and achieve results instead of playing around and destroyingn things. I have seen enough guys who killed the wifi stick or the inverter not knowing what they were doing.
 
Good Morning,

I am wondering if there is a chance to upgrade a MIC 600 Growatt to a MIC 3000 just by editing the digits.

Any experiences?

Thanks for your help
Obviously not if you simply use the brain and read the documentation and spec sheets.
He had clearly described that they are different above 2000W and I have them all , the Mic 600 and the Mic 3000.
You do not need much brain to compare the weight: the bigger ones are 3200 gramm and up to the MIC 2000 they are 3000 gramm

Guess, what might be the difference of 200 gramm ?
A lot of electronics cause most of the weight comes from the case and heatsink.
I would not even think about that cause there is only a chance to upgrade it by buying the missing parts first but these are more expensive than to buy the right one.

And: everything has been said in the beginning and no one needs to wonder that the guy who started it will have checked everything - or why should he have checked 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 but not the bigger ones ?
You simply need to buy a bigger one which are a bit more expensive I guess, about 430€ here instead of 150€ what I had paid for the MIC 600
But I had ordered 10 for family and friends in a bulk order to save a lot.
 
How did you get the Password correctly
have you ever heard about google ?
You will find the answer there and I hope next time you will use your brain and google first cause this is an unnecessary question cause if you can read you would have found the answer as the guy who had raised the question and found the answer.

If he had written he had used the wrong server then using the right server must have solved his problem so among his passwords must be a right one

try
growattyyyymmtt

But please do not ask what yyyymmtt could be cause google will give you the answer.
 
Hello,

I am new here with my balcony solar system mounted at the roof of my garden house. Its 2 panels are looking directly to the south now. So sometimes there are more than 600 Watts to collect ;-).
Next spring I will raise the output value to 750 or better 1000, anyway if 1000 ever would be delivered. Thx for the instructions.

Now my question:
Also I would like to add 2 more panels, one in eastern and one in western direction.
What about the input power ? Can I increase this in software too in any way ? Or is it a hardware limit ? The input of MIC 600 has now a limit of 1050 Watts.
I am afraid of killing the MIC if I'd put 4×450W panels on a series connection to the MIC. Has anyone experiences about it ?


Thx AnotherTux
I guess you have no real clue about what you are doing, right ?

If you trust the guy who had started the topic then his actions would create a MIC 1000 or MIC 1500 or MIC 2000 out of your MIC 600
If you believe in that where do you have to look for the input limitations ?
If you do not believe in him then you would do it your way and believe in 1050 Watt limitations.
If you would believe in his mod then you would check for the right inverter like a MIC 2000 if you upgrade that to 2000 which you can do already.

What do you want to kill if you trust him and his mod and you did everything right?
Nothing, if you stay inside the specs of the MIC 2000 cause if he is right all those inverters from MIC 600 to MIC 2000 are the same except the settings or maybe the firmware, but so many have reported succes by just changing settings, not even changing the firmware.
And if you start to check for the specs compare those data of all mic 600 up to mic 3300 and you will finally find a major difference:
2 groups: mic 600 to mic 2000 which all weigh the same of 6000 gramm, while the mic above the mic 2000 are all 6200 gramm

And then you do not really seem to know what you are doing with the panels. You have 1 single mppt for all the mic series inverter
You have already modules facing south, now you wanna add more or replace those with 4 new ones with 450 Wp cause before you had mentioned 600Wp (the p is important, not nice to have if you speak about modules, cause inverters have W as limitation).

If you put 4 modules into 1 string in a series you will achieve what ?
Nothing at all, maybe the output will even decrease below the current 600W cause you have no basic understanding about a string, shadow and all the limitations that are going on. You are doing guesswork and you would play around and might find out : 1800 Wp in 1 string with less output than the old 600 Wp system with 2 panels ?

In a string like in any chain the weakest part determines the strength or here the output.
If you put 2 panels on your south roof with a 30° angle and also on each side 1 panel with also 30° - which you can do as an experiment on the ground far easier - then let us know which is the panel with the lowest output ?

right, in the morning the west facing one maybe with 30 W while the east one will pushing 200W and the 2 south ones together 200 W or so.
12 am and the south ones will produce on a sunny day 900 W and the east and west ones will be about 250 W each.

Ok, what do you expect to earn in the morning `?
30 W + 200 W + 2x 100W = 430 W ?
Wrong, the weakest panel determins the output which will be 30W x 4 = 120 W in total
12 am and you will not see 250W + 250W + 2x 450 W = 1400 W, just 4 x 250W = 1000W
And in the evening the same as in the morning cause now the east one will be the weakest.

East - West combination does only work in 1 separate string with the same number of panels on each side and same panels, but that will need a single mppt cause in this case the east and the west panel have to be connected in parallel, not in serial !
Then the voltage will be the same and only the current will flow without the limitations you would have in a serial connection, the current of each panel would add up, while in a serial connection the voltage would add up, but the lowest current determine the output.
In a parallel connection the voltage would be nearly the same for the same panels in a similiar angle to the sun , just opposite to each other.

Your idea will need a second mic inverter to get a 2nd mppt tracker and input. Your 1800 Wp from 4 panels are too less for the smallest Growatt Min 2500 I guess which has 2 mppt and can be cheaper than 2 mic 600 which is over 500€. If you get 2 mic 600 for 460€ or so they are less and would run good as mic 1000 with you 900 Wp panels on each of these, if you have the right input voltage especially from the east west setup cause I assume those panels are running with just 38 V or so.
Why? The mic 600 starts from 50 V upwards which would require 2 panels east in serial and 2 panels west in serial together in parallel
East would generate 76V like west 76V which would allow the start. And the east 2 in series have to be connected in parallel with those 2 in series from the west with such a y connector attached.

And I guess you will argue that this is far too expensive. Yes, might be true, but maybe you should look for 6 - 8 smaller sized and cheaper or even used panels just to get over the 50V. Then you might run 2x 250 Wp in east direction and 2x 250 Wp in west direction and 2 x 250 Wp facing south. All sides will be over 50V and therefore the MIC 600 will start. With 500 Wp from the south you have a great output, but you could even got for bigger ones like 350 Wp each.
The east - west orientation is something for bigger systems for houses and what not. You will have to buy a 2nd inverter and at least 4 used 250 Wp panels for about 250€ the mic 600 inverter and 360€ for 4 used panels, so 600€ in total
Or you simply need to think bigger, but then you have to go for the MIN 2500 and sell the MIC 600, but with the opportunity to let the system grow over time by adding panels cause the MIN 2500 should be capable of up to 5000 Wp based on the spec sheets.

Sell the MIC for 175€ , get a MIN 2500 for 450€ and then you paid 275€ instead of 220€ for another MIC 600.
Regardless which inverter, you will need more panels and the easiest way would be to get 4 used ones with 300 Wp or so for the east west inverter.
 

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Hello,

I am new here with my balcony solar system mounted at the roof of my garden house. Its 2 panels are looking directly to the south now. So sometimes there are more than 600 Watts to collect ;-).
Next spring I will raise the output value to 750 or better 1000, anyway if 1000 ever would be delivered. Thx for the instructions.

Now my question:
Also I would like to add 2 more panels, one in eastern and one in western direction.
What about the input power ? Can I increase this in software too in any way ? Or is it a hardware limit ? The input of MIC 600 has now a limit of 1050 Watts.
I am afraid of killing the MIC if I'd put 4×450W panels on a series connection to the MIC. Has anyone experiences about it ?


Thx AnotherTux
FINAL PART

It is far more complicated and what I had told you here is just the tip of the iceberg cause the first point always should be to check the max voltage the panels can produce and to check if those are within the inverters limit. You are lucky cause the Growatt MIC have a high voltage.
But usually it would mean that you need to know the lowest temperature in your location you want to run it for example - 15 °C
Then you need the thermal coefficient for the voltage from you panels spec sheet which could be -0,4% per °C
And let us assume it is a huge panel with 46V then the highest voltage to expect after a cold night at -15°C will be 40°C lower than the standard test temperature of +25°C.
-40 °C x -0,4 % / °C = 16% higher voltage than usually so 46V x 116% = 53,4 V

And this would kill many cheap inverters that can handle 50V but not 53,4 V to expect in a cold night at your home. Most people are chosing panels by the Wp that should fit to the inverter and forget about the most import thing: the maximum voltage which will appear after the coldest night

I did not mention that cause the MIC and MiN inverters have a huge range they can live with, while others have just 50V where 46 V from the panel looks fine or perfect at first sight.

If you did not know about that it is time to learn more cause that is the first calculation you have to do - unless you live in sunny hot australia and have never seen frozen water in the nature. As said before: long, long way , not just that easy as you had thought.
Everything has to fit perfectly (and also meet your budgets where I guess the east west is dead unless you increase the budget or find a 2nd cheap MIC 600 cause the MIC 600 will require 2 x 2 panels for east and west, so 4 panels to get over the start voltage of the mppt.
The cheapest alternative would be 2 cheap chinese 300 W inverters for just 1x 250 Wp for east and 1x 250 Wp for west that would deliver enough energy in the morning. 2 cheap small inverters might be around 150€ in total, which is not much cheaper than the 225€ MIC 600, but they will be happy with just 1 panel instead of 2 the MIC 600 will need.

From a real MiN 4600 with 2 mppt and 2 strings each 6 panelsx 500 Wp , but the 2nd string with 3x 500 Wp east in series that are parallel to 3x 500Wp west I can tell you that in the early morning the only 3 panels facing east are delivering 2x the output of 6 panels facing south (3x west deliver 0) which will change about 10:30 am when the output of the 6 facing south will be higher than that of the 3 east ones. In the noon it will change too, when the west panels deliver more. In total you can expect 80% from the same amount of panels in east west direction that the same amount would produce facing south - but only on sunny days.
On cloudy days with no visible sun east and west combined deliver the same amount as the south ones. Direction does not really matter.

As said before, this is the truth and all the considerations to make to find a optimum. If you can save a lot during the few minutes of the morning when you are at home then east west might be right for you, but if you are not at home and have a low demand and save maybe 100 W over 1 hours than you can not pay the panels from just 100 Wh savings from the grid, or maybe in a whole week 2 kWh due to saturay and sunday at home. But that would be just 100 kWh a year or 30€ - maybe you save 2 times of that in the evening which would mean 60€ on top, so 90€ a year. But you would have to buy 4 panels and a second mic 600 and the y connectors and cable where you will end up around 600€.

Might take 6 years till you got your money back. Quite a long time, or your consumption will raise.
 
There is a simple way to check if an inverter is upgradeable via its firmware or register addresses in the UK. Most UK models are also used in Europe.


Go to the ENA site, which is the database for the G98/G99/G100 certs for the UK, these are the official certs that allow Grid tied equipment to be connected to the Public Grid.


Search out the inverter by model number and open up the cert, the Chinese makers to cut down on paperwork use the same cert to cover different models with the helpful comment added that the capacity of the Inverter is determined by the Firmware or Software loaded and circuitry is the same.

See page 12 of this Sunsynk cert for a 3.0kw and 3.6kw inverter

 
There is a simple way to check if an inverter is upgradeable via its firmware or register addresses in the UK. Most UK models are also used in Europe.


Go to the ENA site, which is the database for the G98/G99/G100 certs for the UK, these are the official certs that allow Grid tied equipment to be connected to the Public Grid.


Search out the inverter by model number and open up the cert, the Chinese makers to cut down on paperwork use the same cert to cover different models with the helpful comment added that the capacity of the Inverter is determined by the Firmware or Software loaded and circuitry is the same.

See page 12 of this Sunsynk cert for a 3.0kw and 3.6kw inverter

Hoe do I read the value I have to change register 121 to convert a 3000 into a 3300?
 
Hoe do I read the value I have to change register 121 to convert a 3000 into a 3300?
I am not sure if you know what you are doing.
You should already KNOW that the MIC 600 - 2000 series has physically not much to do with the 3000 series.

You need to know what you are doing and how to read a register has been explained before. Do not ruin your MIC 3000 for just 10% more.
It will never be worth the gamble you are taking. We are here in the MiC 600 range and get +220% or so if we upgrade which is a total different story.

Therefore you should search for a MIC3000 upgrade and not ask here in a 2000 topic. Some stupid guy might tell you that you should replace X by Z and your inverter is dead afterwards cause even in the MiC 600 series a lot is going NOT according to plan with register 121.

Who had told you that register 121 is the right register for a MiC 3000 and who had told you the values to get a MiC 3300 ?

I had gotten 10 of these MIC 600 for cheap last Chrismas for 150€ incl. WiFi Stick.
If one would break I would not care cause the potential gain or what I had gotten so far (2000 W) is a lot higher, but I bet your MIC 3000 is a lot more than 150€ cause he the cheapest is about 385€ and the MiC 3300 ist just 20€ more.

Simple advice: if you can hack it you will loose your waranty cause Growatt tracks every single of your changes so once you had switched warranty is over even if you can revert the 3000 in case of a waranty claim. Your production value of the past will also always proof that you had modified it beyond waranty.
20€ is just 5% more so try to sell you current one used and get a new one that better fits your needs. 10 year warranty is a lot.
We MIC600 will have won our bets if the inverter lasts more than 3 years cause we produce a lot more in a year like I am running mine as 2000 W with about 2500 Wp.

And do not forget: if someone wanna fool you he might tell you a hack that can destroy your MiC3000 so a lot at stake at least for 400€ inverter
And if you might consider flipping do not forget to think twice if a MIN 3600 might be more beneficial for you cause that has 2 mppt so you could benefit a lot in case you face shadow from a tree and split your current string in 2 which means the one not in the shadow runs full speed or with 2 different orientations. In that segment of above 3 kW I would always go for a MIN 3600 or so cause it is more flexible and people also will pay more as used one if you need to upgrade beyond MIN 3600 with its roughly 5500 Wp.

Good luck
 
There is a simple way to check if an inverter is upgradeable via its firmware or register addresses in the UK. Most UK models are also used in Europe.


Go to the ENA site, which is the database for the G98/G99/G100 certs for the UK, these are the official certs that allow Grid tied equipment to be connected to the Public Grid.


Search out the inverter by model number and open up the cert, the Chinese makers to cut down on paperwork use the same cert to cover different models with the helpful comment added that the capacity of the Inverter is determined by the Firmware or Software loaded and circuitry is the same.

See page 12 of this Sunsynk cert for a 3.0kw and 3.6kw inverter

Thanks a lot cause this will be a great source to check in the future !
Same certificate is a way to save an awfull lot of money for the manufacturers but I had thought so far that they would have closed these loops holes, but I had upgraded this week 10 Min 600 and it works great even at 2000W with 2500 Wp each. Lot of strings, but lot of gain when the shadow starts to kick in on the first of 10 strings cause 9 strings will be running 100% from their on and maybe the next string will be in shadow 8 minutes later, but I can win 8 min 100% versus 15% . If you compare it to a 25000 W inverter with a single string as worst case than you gain about 9x by average 40 min of full production so 9x 40/60 h x 2000 W x 85% = 10,2 kWh in case of a fixed shadow coming in caused by a tree.
 
Okay, it is possible to switch to 1000W and go to 80% Set Active Power Ratio
Does this setting need a 1 or 3 phase smart meter and RS485 connection ?
Is it a constant 80% reduction regardless what the DC sides delivers or
is it a max 80% of the 1000W nominal?
I would not want to reduce it constantly to 80% if the output is just 700W or so.
I need that for a different MIN4600 inverter to limit the output to 4000W

thanks (y) for sharing the idea
 
Hoe do I read the value I have to change register 121 to convert a 3000 into a 3300?
Register 121 is working for most of the Growatt-Inverters. (SPH is different) Please feel free to follow all the stuff @link
For 3000 it should be 30, 3300 -> 33, 3600 -> 36
But I don't have any of these Typ to check it.
 
Hoe do I read the value I have to change register 121 to convert a 3000 into a 3300?
Did you have succeeded with the register modification to 3300 W by using the 33 for register 121 ?
Or did you check the 36 for register 121 to get the 3600 W of a device I never had heard of like MIC 3600 ?

thanks
 
Hi all,
it seems like Growatt now hides the needed password field under inverter settings. Is there a way to make this visible again.
Or is the change only possible with an RS485 Adapter?
 
Hello, would love to follow this how-to. But I fail when I come to edit the registers. I come to the page where I could enter the data. BUT it then always says "wrong password" and I find litterally no space to enter a password? Any advice please?
Regards
monacon
 
Hello, would love to follow this how-to. But I fail when I come to edit the registers. I come to the page where I could enter the data. BUT it then always says "wrong password" and I find litterally no space to enter a password? Any advice please?
Regards
monacon
I solved it the following way:
I searched (Ctrl+F) for "password". Then I closed the search popup of the browser. Then I hit "tab" and was able to fill in the password (even though not seeing it). Seemed to work.
 
Last edited:
Hello,

i want to change register 124 TrakerModel to 1:DC Source via ESPHOME, to disable the tracker.

But this register seems to be different then other registers - on Growatt MIC 600. Reading all values including model change works, but not writing to 124.

The register stays at 0, written while on and off.

Any ideas?

I dont want to buy a stick only for this register and change it online. This is the way it work.
 
I have a MIC 3000 TL-X. Is it also possible to change the setting to a 3300? I believe I read somewhere the hardware is the same.
Did you tried the modification?

On a MOD 3000 TL-X the M value is M001E which corresponds to 3000W. After a firmware upgrade it was limited to 3100W (the 3100 limit is displayed in shinetools when booting in the active power field). Before the inverter produced close to 3400W but the M value was the same - M001E so it seems that is also another limit in software.
 
Hello,

I want to change the output Power of a MIC 600 TL-X Inverter. If I go on server.growatt.com and want to follow the steps happend nothing if i save the changes. I tried the Register 0 and Value 0, Save. Nothing happend. Then Register 121 and Value 15, nothing happend.

Have anyone a Tipp what I made wrong?
 

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Hello together.

I am here to say Thank you! Was a little fiddling between the posts here but it worked in the end.
As it was not 100% clear to me, i want to leave some screenshots. Hope this helps others.

On the Dashboard https://server.growatt.com/index i scrolled down to inverter and on the right i hit settings.
1722963765922.png

Scrolled down to set register and entered password as described here. growatt20240806 as today is the 6th of August
First set Register 0 - klick yes (you will get a success message)
1722963890409.png
Second set Register 121 to 20 if you want it to have 2000W (Success Message too)
1722964047763.png

The Mode on Device serial number changed after a manual Powercycle. Power the DC switch of and On again after 10 Minutes.

Thanks again!
me
 

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