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Connecting Sol-Ark 15K directly to utility meter.

Leodoggie

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I have about 5K of solar with enphase micro inverters. I would like to install a whole house backup system using a sol-Ark 15k and 30k of eg4 batteries. I found a line drawing in the Sol ark manual showing it connected to the meter with existing solar connected to the main house panel.
I was wondering if anyone has done it this way. Also I reside in N. California so has anyone in the PG&E utility area done this and if so, what is the procedure, how long does it take and what is the cost for temporarily having the power turned off.
I have attached the line drawing from the manual.
Thank you in advance for help on this project.
 

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This is how most people use the 15k, to utilize the 200a bypass.

Usually a trained electrician can pull the meter for you while you connect the power to the inverter. Its not something you have to call PG&E for.
 
Put the enphase into the Gen Input, and tell the sol-ark that you have AC PV on the gen port. Then in grid down, it can properly control the enphase (hopefully).

If you connect the enphase directly to the panel, sol-ark can't disconnect the enphase if they are producing more than you are consuming and can send to the battery. That will fry something.
 
I am planning to do the same. I have 9.8kw pv going to a solaredge 7.6kw inverter. Am trying to get an electrician to install the fused disconnect and the manual two pole transfer switch with Polaris lugs to split line input to the bypass switch and then to the Solark 15k.

Then I will plan to do the rest.

Am also planning to bring the AC input in to the Gen input of the Solark
 
200A fused disconnect is good.
But I suggest installing 200A main breaker and interlocked 125A "generator" breaker in main panel.
That would serve as a bypass to supply 125A from grid straight to panel, if SolArk is out of service.
 
This is how most people use the 15k, to utilize the 200a bypass.

Usually a trained electrician can pull the meter for you while you connect the power to the inverter. Its not something you have to call PG&E for.
The meters are locked with a tag and I heard pge will flag you if the meter goes down and does not report at a certain time interval. I suggest to get a proper permit for installing a manual transfer switch and then once you have the ability to bypass, do the install safely afterwards.
 
200A fused disconnect is good.
But I suggest installing 200A main breaker and interlocked 125A "generator" breaker in main panel.
That would serve as a bypass to supply 125A from grid straight to panel, if SolArk is out of service.
I was planning to install based on the provided diagram from Solark. The two pole bypass manual switch allows me to bypass the Solark completely and feed the electric panel directly from the grid.
 

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The meters are locked with a tag and I heard pge will flag you if the meter goes down and does not report at a certain time interval. I suggest to get a proper permit for installing a manual transfer switch and then once you have the ability to bypass, do the install safely afterwards.
You are correct the meter has the tag, I will be getting a licensed electrician to do the work with permits.
looking to see if anyone has done this with PG&E which is my utility so I am not reinventing the wheel.
Thank you.
 
Put the enphase into the Gen Input, and tell the sol-ark that you have AC PV on the gen port. Then in grid down, it can properly control the enphase (hopefully).

If you connect the enphase directly to the panel, sol-ark can't disconnect the enphase if they are producing more than you are consuming and can send to the battery. That will fry something.
Thank you, I was little worried about leaving the enphase micro inverters connected to main panel, this makes more sense, so the sol-ark can frequency shift them off if needs be.
 
Thank you, I was little worried about leaving the enphase micro inverters connected to main panel, this makes more sense, so the sol-ark can frequency shift them off if needs be.
Not just frequency shift. If they fail to respond to the frequency shift, the sol-ark can disconnect the gen input port.

Sol-Ark can frequency shift main panel connections too. The risk is if they don't behave. Gen Port has the additional safety of disconnection.

Note: Something about 4 seconds for micro-inverters to respond, and that can be too long in a bad situation (batteries full, and your large air conditioner turns off). I don't know why the Sol-Ark doesn't turn off AC PV at say 90% SOC, and save some capacity for the surge. Maybe they do, but still want the additional safety.

Note 2: Don't know how bad it is for the microinverter to suddenly disconnect. But, better to fry your micro inverters than your sol-ark and house.
 
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Not just frequency shift. If they fail to respond to the frequency shift, the sol-ark can disconnect the gen input port.

Sol-Ark can frequency shift main panel connections too. The risk is if they don't behave. Gen Port has the additional safety of disconnection.

Note: Something about 4 seconds for micro-inverters to respond, and that can be too long in a bad situation (batteries full, and your large air conditioner turns off). I don't know why the Sol-Ark doesn't turn off AC PV at say 90% SOC, and save some capacity for the surge. Maybe they do, but still want the additional safety.

Note 2: Don't know how bad it is for the microinverter to suddenly disconnect. But, better to fry your micro inverters than your sol-ark and house.
I am new to sol-Ark so pardon my ignorance, but curious, what happens to the solar panels connected to the regular pv input under the same scenario of grid down batteries full and excess solar?
Thanks for your help.
 
I am new to sol-Ark so pardon my ignorance, but curious, what happens to the solar panels connected to the regular pv input under the same scenario of grid down batteries full and excess solar?
Thanks for your help.
With DC PV, the Inverter takes what it needs. The electrons wait patiently when not needed. Which is why VOC is important. They will stack up to the VOC (adjusted for temp) amount, and wait.
 
With DC PV, the Inverter takes what it needs. The electrons wait patiently when not needed. Which is why VOC is important. They will stack up to the VOC (adjusted for temp) amount, and wait.
These electrons are very clever apparently. An installer told me that connecting the sol-Ark directly to the meter would modify and affect the UL. Didn’t give an explanation why. Most of the line diagrams in the sol-Ark manual show connections to the meter, also why would they have a 200 amp pass through feature if this was an issue.
I would be very appreciative of people’s opinion on this.
 
An installer told me that connecting the sol-Ark directly to the meter would modify and affect the UL.
Perhaps it is not the UL listing he was thinking about. I know that some building codes jurisdictions want to see a disconnnect after the meter. Many of the available main service panels available in California have the meter connected to the main bus bar through a main breaker. I know it is common in other jurisdictions for the main breaker panel to be separate from the meter, often several feet away on the inside of the building.
 
I don't think SolArk has a 200A breaker on the input, nor an isolator.

It has 200A breaker on the output, and I would think a relay on input. Which would still leave some circuitry connected to input, because it has to monitor and decide when to close relay. So always live circuits inside.

Anything connected to the grid should have an isolator (contacts opened 1"), also OCP.
That would be a reason to require either 200A breaker or fused safety switch.

Besides, how else could you safely disconnect wires from input of SolArk if you had to take it down for repair?
 
I don't think SolArk has a 200A breaker on the input, nor an isolator.

It has 200A breaker on the output, and I would think a relay on input. Which would still leave some circuitry connected to input, because it has to monitor and decide when to close relay. So always live circuits inside.

Anything connected to the grid should have an isolator (contacts opened 1"), also OCP.
That would be a reason to require either 200A breaker or fused safety switch.

Besides, how else could you safely disconnect wires from input of SolArk if you had to take it down for repair?
The sol Ark has a 200 amp breaker on the grid input and also has a built in automatic transfer switch.
On the line diagram it shows the need for a 200 amp fused disconnect between the utility meter and the grid input.
I do not have the inverter yet so I am going by what’s in the manual, others who actually have the inverter should be able to speak more intelligently than me about it’s capabilities.
 
you need 200A fused disconnect for sure, neither 200a hybrid is "service entrance rated"


After that, you really need to pre-check this with your inspector because if they put 2 and 2 together they may require a manual bypass 200a switch.

you may need to feed that with a 200 A breaker box because you'll have to double-lug your "grid" side of the transfer switch.

 
The sol Ark has a 200 amp breaker on the grid input and also has a built in automatic transfer switch.
On the line diagram it shows the need for a 200 amp fused disconnect between the utility meter and the grid input.
I do not have the inverter yet so I am going by what’s in the manual, others who actually have the inverter should be able to speak more intelligently than me about it’s capabilities.
1690906030506.png

Don't think that is right.
 
Correct, the Sol-Ark 15K does not have a grid breaker. My installer mounted a 200 A breaker next to the 15K, as well as a fused disconnect next to the meter.
 
I have about 5K of solar with enphase micro inverters. I would like to install a whole house backup system using a sol-Ark 15k and 30k of eg4 batteries. I found a line drawing in the Sol ark manual showing it connected to the meter with existing solar connected to the main house panel.
I was wondering if anyone has done it this way. Also I reside in N. California so has anyone in the PG&E utility area done this and if so, what is the procedure, how long does it take and what is the cost for temporarily having the power turned off.
I have attached the line drawing from the manual.
Thank you in advance for help on this project.
When I replaced my main panel, I pulled a main panel changeout permit (over the counter,easy peasy 5 minutes max)
set up a day for both PG&E and inspector to come out, drop power in the morning-give me a couple of hours to swap out panel then inspector came back,slapped a sticker on panel (with only main breaker and one circuit wired and PG&E rehooked me up,no cost
 
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