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EG4 18kPV Q+A general thread

I would focus on getting the battery communications running and then let the BMS figure out the rest. No need to do any specific cycles at far as I know.
I agree and so does one tech at SS but another tech at SS said differently, that SS found doing this extends battery life. If so, where is this written?
I pasted the email pertaining to this below.

" Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are designed to be charged and discharged repeatedly; however, if they are only partially discharged and recharged each time, the BMS will eventually learn the smaller charge and discharge range. This can result in shorter battery life and reduced performance over time. By deep cycling a lithium battery, you are performing a type of calibration and ensuring the BMS can learn the fully charged and discharged values; which will help prolong its lifespan and maintain its performance.
To deep cycle an EG4 LifePower4 lithium battery, discharge it down to 80% DOD and then allow it to recharge as much as it will allow; do this as many times as possible every day for 14 days. The more times it can be discharged and charged in a single day lessens the number of days this needs to be done in total. If you can only discharge/charge the battery once a day, then we strongly recommend going for the full 14 days. The inverter's battery type must be set to "User Defined" mode and manually set the charging parameters in the inverter settings.
For EG4-LL 48v batteries you will use the following settings:
Charge (Bulk/Absorb) Voltage: 57.6v
Float: 57v
Low DC Cutoff: 48v
For EG4-LL 24v batteries you will use the following settings:
Charge (Bulk/Absorb) Voltage: 28.8v
Float: 28.5v
Low DC Cutoff: 22v
For EG4 LifePower4 48v batteries you will use the following settings with firmware version 3.26 or later:
Charge (Bulk/Absorb) Voltage: 58v
Float: 58v
Low DC Cutoff: 46v
For EG4 LifePower4 24v batteries you will use the following settings:
Charge (Bulk/Absorb) Voltage: 29v
Float: 29v
Low DC Cutoff: 22v "
 
Mostly correct. I believe the grid input can be used for generator input, but to make that work right the inverter has to be configured to 'microgrid'.

However, I know some people feel that even though they have no grid connection, the price and the rest of the features of the 18Kpv still make it a good choice for them.


That is kinda the definition of a hybrid inverter.
Tried micro-grid.

The problem is the inverter will not supplement a generator input, nor will it use it only for charging. For example, in an off-grid scenario, you might want to run your generator to keep the batteries topped up but your overall load spikes much higher than the generator is capable of handling. Say you have, Oh I dunno two of these 50A monstrosities, so you can pump out 100A. Your average load is only about 3KW, but from time to time the HWH cuts on at the same time as the HVAC, while you are baking a cake, and boiling some water for pasta, with some garlic bread in the toaster oven and a cup of tea in the Keurig. What would be nice is if you could run your 5KW generator any time SOC gets below say 15% just to pump the batteries up, say to 20%. Unfortunately the inverter shunts the generator directly to load. So after the HWH turns on about the time the HVAC kicks on the breaker just pops on the 'generator', and you flip back to battery/inverter. What you need is for the generator to just send 50-odd charging volts to the batteries and not bridge. I had to buy a chargeverter to do this.
 
Tried micro-grid.

The problem is the inverter will not supplement a generator input, nor will it use it only for charging. For example, in an off-grid scenario, you might want to run your generator to keep the batteries topped up but your overall load spikes much higher than the generator is capable of handling. Say you have, Oh I dunno two of these 50A monstrosities, so you can pump out 100A. Your average load is only about 3KW, but from time to time the HWH cuts on at the same time as the HVAC, while you are baking a cake, and boiling some water for pasta, with some garlic bread in the toaster oven and a cup of tea in the Keurig. What would be nice is if you could run your 5KW generator any time SOC gets below say 15% just to pump the batteries up, say to 20%. Unfortunately the inverter shunts the generator directly to load. So after the HWH turns on about the time the HVAC kicks on the breaker just pops on the 'generator', and you flip back to battery/inverter. What you need is for the generator to just send 50-odd charging volts to the batteries and not bridge. I had to buy a chargeverter to do this.

Oh, the 18kpv does not do blending like some of the LF ones do? It's harder to get right on HF and it wasn't super clear from the threads what its capabilities were. I thought for a $5000 AC coupling platform it could be better.
 
"If using EG4 Lifepower batteries in the system, an OPTIONAL firmware update is REQUIRED for closed-loop communications."

This is a joke, right? Or is this some of that "he thinks this and she thinks that, so whateverthefuckyouwannado" sort of thing going on here?
If I use the EG4 batteries with the EG4 inverter, now the OPTIONAL firmware update is now REQUIRED?
I've got the communication hub. Does this thing do anything at all?
 
"If using EG4 Lifepower batteries in the system, an OPTIONAL firmware update is REQUIRED for closed-loop communications."

This is a joke, right? Or is this some of that "he thinks this and she thinks that, so whateverthefuckyouwannado" sort of thing going on here?
If I use the EG4 batteries with the EG4 inverter, now the OPTIONAL firmware update is now REQUIRED?
I've got the communication hub. Does this thing do anything at all?
Battery firmware for Lifepower4 is required if you don't want to use the Communication Hub.
 
I agree and so does one tech at SS but another tech at SS said differently, that SS found doing this extends battery life. If so, where is this written?
I pasted the email pertaining to this below.

" Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are designed to be charged and discharged repeatedly; however, if they are only partially discharged and recharged each time, the BMS will eventually learn the smaller charge and discharge range. This can result in shorter battery life and reduced performance over time. By deep cycling a lithium battery, you are performing a type of calibration and ensuring the BMS can learn the fully charged and discharged values; which will help prolong its lifespan and maintain its performance.
To deep cycle an EG4 LifePower4 lithium battery, discharge it down to 80% DOD and then allow it to recharge as much as it will allow; do this as many times as possible every day for 14 days. The more times it can be discharged and charged in a single day lessens the number of days this needs to be done in total. If you can only discharge/charge the battery once a day, then we strongly recommend going for the full 14 days. The inverter's battery type must be set to "User Defined" mode and manually set the charging parameters in the inverter settings.
For EG4-LL 48v batteries you will use the following settings:
Charge (Bulk/Absorb) Voltage: 57.6v
Float: 57v
Low DC Cutoff: 48v
For EG4-LL 24v batteries you will use the following settings:
Charge (Bulk/Absorb) Voltage: 28.8v
Float: 28.5v
Low DC Cutoff: 22v
For EG4 LifePower4 48v batteries you will use the following settings with firmware version 3.26 or later:
Charge (Bulk/Absorb) Voltage: 58v
Float: 58v
Low DC Cutoff: 46v
For EG4 LifePower4 24v batteries you will use the following settings:
Charge (Bulk/Absorb) Voltage: 29v
Float: 29v
Low DC Cutoff: 22v "
I'm curious to here others expert opinions on this. I'm paging @Steve_S for his wisdom, I have found his information on cell voltages extremely helpful. (sorry to the other experts whose names I can't remember)

As long as you hit a full charge a few times a week, daily better, the coulomb counter in the BMS will reset.
In my opinion those voltages are rather aggressive and could cause more harm than good. There is no need to float them that high in the charge curve.

I'm running with a 55.2V bulk, holding for 30 minutes and floating at 54.8V.

I have a feeling you will be triggering over voltage protection with the recommended voltages, being user defined the BMS has no input to throttle charge current at xx.xV.
 
Battery firmware for Lifepower4 is required if you don't want to use the Communication Hub.
Oh, that sounds like some good news.
I do want to use it. I got it. It came with the deal I bought into. If I use it, I'm good then?
At first, trying to get good, reliable info off this forum made me think, I could be getting bad information, act on it and blow something up. Now, I'd rather get my info from people on this forum then from their tech department. You guys are great!

How would you recommend I set up the batteries on the inverter? That's probably a tough question to answer with too many inputs. I think I can just change from lead-acid to lithium and leave everything else. I'll call Sig Solar's tech dept tomorrow, but not before I say my prayers.

IMG_20231111_232255333.jpg
 
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I'm curious to here others expert opinions on this. I'm paging @Steve_S for his wisdom, I have found his information on cell voltages extremely helpful. (sorry to the other experts whose names I can't remember)

As long as you hit a full charge a few times a week, daily better, the coulomb counter in the BMS will reset.
In my opinion those voltages are rather aggressive and could cause more harm than good. There is no need to float them that high in the charge curve.

I'm running with a 55.2V bulk, holding for 30 minutes and floating at 54.8V.

I have a feeling you will be triggering over voltage protection with the recommended voltages, being user defined the BMS has no input to throttle charge current at xx.xV.
And this is the information I am getting straight from Sig Solar's tech dept. Are they trying to blow me up?
I feared turning this thing on, asking every little stupid question I could think of to avoid a potential disaster. I turned it on and lost my upstairs ac unit. Inverter at 50 hertz at fault? They are trying to blow me up.
 
And this is the information I am getting straight from Sig Solar's tech dept. Are they trying to blow me up?
I feared turning this thing on, asking every little stupid question I could think of to avoid a potential disaster. I turned it on and lost my upstairs ac unit. Inverter at 50 hertz at fault? They are trying to blow me up.
I don't think they are trying to blow you up, they are likely just reading from a manual or flow chart vs the community here and many members that have been using lifepo4 longer than they have had a job as SS....
If you do charge aggressively the BMS will protect the cells (as long as it's programmed correctly). I learned this first hand when my system was restarting a few times a week, I realized I had a low max charge current programmed when I initially set up the BMS as well as cell OVP at 3.6V. After I increased the max charge current and decreased bulk charging to 55.2V things have been solid.

Wow 50hz out of the box?

Don't get to frustrated, consider it a learning experience. Trust me it will all be worth it when you get it dialed in.
 
Yep, but it does auto detect grid hz and Voltage...but what DIY person hooks up grid prior to testing the unit.
I did so I could meter and check / tweak all settings ahead of time; only because my other inverter was still connected to batteries and powering the house, otherwise I would have hooked up to the batteries with no loads on the AC out.
 
And this is the information I am getting straight from Sig Solar's tech dept. Are they trying to blow me up?
I feared turning this thing on, asking every little stupid question I could think of to avoid a potential disaster. I turned it on and lost my upstairs ac unit. Inverter at 50 hertz at fault? They are trying to blow me up.
Mine was set to 50hz also, I had to manually change it. Sorry about you ac,
 
Mine was set to 50hz also, I had to manually change it. Sorry about you ac,
I just followed the instructions. It doesn't say anything about testing or any such warning about it being set to 50 hertz.

I never turned on the air conditioner either. I flipped all the various switches in the correct order to get the inverter, batteries & mini field going and later noticed the Lenox smart thermostat wasn't on upstairs. I even checked with 2 SS techs and right here on this thread and there was no mention of such a thing. I swapped the thermostat with the downstairs unit and the thermostat is fine.

I cannot blame this 50 hertz setting, at least I probably won't be able to prove that's what did it. My electrician said that throwing all these fricken switches and levers and breakers could've done it and it could be something simple and inexpensive. I'll find out soon.
 
I just followed the instructions. It doesn't say anything about testing or any such warning about it being set to 50 hertz.

I never turned on the air conditioner either. I flipped all the various switches in the correct order to get the inverter, batteries & mini field going and later noticed the Lenox smart thermostat wasn't on upstairs. I even checked with 2 SS techs and right here on this thread and there was no mention of such a thing. I swapped the thermostat with the downstairs unit and the thermostat is fine.

I cannot blame this 50 hertz setting, at least I probably won't be able to prove that's what did it. My electrician said that throwing all these fricken switches and levers and breakers could've done it and it could be something simple and inexpensive. I'll find out soon.
Unless the unit has a Inverter drive motor and was powered on. It would simply run hotter
 
I'm curious to here others expert opinions on this. I'm paging @Steve_S for his wisdom, I have found his information on cell voltages extremely helpful. (sorry to the other experts whose names I can't remember)

As long as you hit a full charge a few times a week, daily better, the coulomb counter in the BMS will reset.
In my opinion those voltages are rather aggressive and could cause more harm than good. There is no need to float them that high in the charge curve.

I'm running with a 55.2V bulk, holding for 30 minutes and floating at 54.8V.

I have a feeling you will be triggering over voltage protection with the recommended voltages, being user defined the BMS has no input to throttle charge current at xx.xV.
FIRST, I will say that I have not been following this thread but read a bit of the current talk. My response therefore will cover more stuff and some obvious Wives Tales / Postulation & Theorization.

Working LFP batteries have absolutely NO PROBLEM with sitting at 3.400 Volts per cell (Official 100% SOC) as LFP is designed to do just that. With ESS systems, the Batteries never actually sit at 100% for very long (during the daytime maybe when fully charged, till the sun goes down). Even if they were at 100% SOC (3.4Volts per cell) in a Part-Time home and not being used partially (small loads), they would sit happily without issues.

Next key point that FAR TOO MANY MISS !
LFP should NOT be charged too far above the Working Voltage Range (3.000-3.400 Volts Per Cell), yet people do it and THAT is NOT GOOD !
Bulk/Absorb should be set to 3.450Vpc (13.8 / 27.8 / 55.2) (Variable Voltage / Constant Current)
Float should be set to between 3.425-3.410 Vpc (13.7-13.6 / 27.4-27.2 / 54.8-54.4) (Constant Voltage / Variable Current)
Absorb can last up to 1 Hour - this allows for the internal balancing to be complete. It will stop as soon as EndAmps/TailCurrent is reached.
Transition to Float from Absorb MUST occur when the battery packs reach EndAmps/TailCurrent !
EndAmps / Tailcurrent is calculated as follows: 100AH Battery X 0.05 = 5A. 280AH X 0.05 = 14A.
Whether you have 1 or 5 100AH Batteries in Parallel the EndAmp value is still 5A.
* Not all equipment has an EndAmps/Tailcurrent setting. Vctron, Midnite Solar and other Tier-1 products do.

Low Voltage Disconnect ! (another area of confusion)
Simply PUT. Never EVER set the Disconnect too low ! It only takes 1 cell to be below the disconnect voltage point to prevent a BMS from starting up & taking a charge ! That low voltage (even above 2.50) is not healthy for the cells. Low Voltage Disconnect should never be below 2.650, so as to allow enough to remain keeping the BMS in Standby mode to receive charge. Additionally, IF the batteries are already low, you need to keep enough room if a heavy load is applied, the cells will sag for a few moments and you do not want an instant cutoff. The IDEAL Low Volt Disconnect should be set no lower than 2.700Vpc (10.8 / 21.6 / 43.2) I set my systems to 2.8Vpc LVD.

!! CHARGING NOTE !!
LFP has a Working Voltage Range of 3.000-3.400 while the Allowable Voltage range (that does not cause harm) is from 2.500-3.650.
Cells are tested & validated to deliver their specified Amp Hours from the WORKING RANGE ! (hence why 3.200V is Nominal for LFP)
When charging above 3.450, the cells can & often will "run" which means that 1 or more cells may reach higher voltage than their neighbours, this is often the cause for HVD/OVD Disconnects when any cell reach above the High Volt Disconnect setting in the BMS (usually 3.650). This can create a large internal imbalance and affect performance of the entire pack.

FLOAT NOTES ! (lots of BS on this, straight poop here - no theories/postulation)
Float DOES NOT HARM BATTERIES IN ANY WAY !!! The Constant Voltage is kept going to the batteries allowing for internal balancing & topping off. Batteries will NOT take more than their Internal Resistance will allow and you will see Float Energy going to batteries drop to 0A once the batteries are full. FLOAT will continue to provide solar power to service any loads the Inverter demands and will provide all it can without pulling from the battery bank WHILE Solar Power Input is available. IF there is more demand than it can provide, the balance gets pulled from the batteries, once the load is done, then Float will replace what was taken from the batteries provided there is enough solar input.

NOTE that even with Float,, the batteries will take a bit more over the Working Voltage range of 3.400 Vpc (why we set to 3.425-3.410 Vpc) because the moment Input power stops (sundown) the LFP will settle down (normal & natural for the chemistry) and the cells within the battery pack will drop to between 3.390-3.405 depending on the saturation.

CRITICAL INFO VENDORS DON'T MENTION !
Systems MUST be Calibrated & Voltage Corrected/Compensated.
There are ALWAYS losses on the wire from SCC / Inverter & the Battery Bank. A Simple FACT ! Every connection, lug, fuse/breaker etc ALL add resistance & voltage losses. While it may not seem like a lot and in the Lead Acid battery days it did not matter that much because FLA is "Brute Force" technology. ALL LITHIUM CHEMISTRIES and NOT Brute Force Tech, these ARE Millivolt & Milliohm sensitive and even a 0.100 Volt difference CAN muck stuff up (Think Hi / Lo Volt disconnects and more) as we are charging to a Fine Resolution. IE 54.8-54.4) which is a 0.400 difference ! Does not seem like a lot BUT for Lithium Cells it IS !

You MUST look at the Voltage at the Solar Controller Terminals, the Inverter Terminals and the Battery Terminals and note the difference (there will be some). The Battery Packs themselves are the BOSS when it comes to Voltage.
If the Battery pack(s) is 50.0V and SCC is charging and reads as 49.5V you have a 0.500 Volt differential to Correct for. Then look at the inverter and it may be reading 49.25V then it needs to be corrected for the 0.750V difference.

The GOTCHAS ! There is a BIAS issue here as well. When a SCC or Inverter/Charger are CHARGING the batteries, the voltages at the terminals of the SCC or Charger will read higher as that is input power. That is Charging Bias.
- When there is no solar power coming from the SCC the bias will make it read a lower voltage (normal) but you have to account for that when reading the displays/software.
- When the Inverter is Pulling from the batteries it will also be biased as well ad will read the voltages as a bit lower. THE GOTCHA is that it may disconnect before the actual voltage hits Low Volt Disconnect.

The Key, is to correct the SCC so it is 100% corrected WHEN IT IS CHARGING so that is never goes over the settings for the batteries.
The Inverter must be corrected so that it is reading the correct voltage during discharge, to prevent early / late Low Volt Disconnects.

Tier-1 Equipment do have OFFSET settings in their programming, some 2nd tier products do as well while Value grade generally do not.

quick-voltage-chart-lfp-jpg.150247


I will not argue these points / issues there is no point... If you want to go ahead but I'm not interested... I have repeated this info NUMEROUS TIMES and tired of it. I am an ENGINEER (3 degrees) and doing fine electronics, data systems then into renewables for Many Years ! I build batteries and complete systems and have quite a bit out there and NO I do not mention my business ventures in here, I'm busy enough. I've written guides, docs for public consumption as well as a few BMS Manuals and work with BMS Manufacturers as we as Inverter/Solar systems manufacturers directly. It is also a bit of a bugger because I have several Non-Disclosure Agreements in place so I am restricted with the info I can provide in some cases.

Bottom Line
Use your Critical Thinking and apply conservative rationale and keep your system settings reasonable & polite to not suffer issues & problems.

Hope it helps, Good Luck.
 
Thank you @Steve_S. I'm bookmarking and printing your post above. I've read it numerous times but could never find it easily.
There are a few links I have left in my Signature but a crap load of more detailed posts on Calibration and such are here but removed from my sig.
 
Steve has years of technical and practical experience on this subject. My Bms is set to the specs he published elsewhere.

When he makes a suggestion I consider it pure gold. His systems have been an inspiration and model for my current build.
 
Steve has years of technical and practical experience on this subject. My Bms is set to the specs he published elsewhere.

When he makes a suggestion I consider it pure gold. His systems have been an inspiration and model for my current build.
Gee wiz, gosh golly darn.... sheepishly shuffles feet in the grass while looking at the sky (ok it's a freakin snowstorm right now but you get the idea). I have systems out there running greenhouses, sawmills (Wood Mizer types) and more but I do not discuss that here... I will not promo. Just another solar dude here...
 
has anyone used the eg4 18k with a Honda eu7000 connected to the gen input and had any dirty power issues? I realize a larger generator is recomended, but was just curious.
 
I'm curious to here others expert opinions on this. I'm paging @Steve_S for his wisdom, I have found his information on cell voltages extremely helpful. (sorry to the other experts whose names I can't remember)

As long as you hit a full charge a few times a week, daily better, the coulomb counter in the BMS will reset.
In my opinion those voltages are rather aggressive and could cause more harm than good. There is no need to float them that high in the charge curve.

I'm running with a 55.2V bulk, holding for 30 minutes and floating at 54.8V.

I have a feeling you will be triggering over voltage protection with the recommended voltages, being user defined the BMS has no input to throttle charge current at xx.xV.
Based on what you've written and what Steve has written, the email I posted from SS is not correct then?
If I were to post my inputs, would you let me know what you think?
 
has anyone used the eg4 18k with a Honda eu7000 connected to the gen input and had any dirty power issues? I realize a larger generator is recomended, but was just curious.
Is that an inverter generator? Initial web search says it is.
 
I threw it all up on my little build thread so I don't pollute this thread anymore than I already have. Bottom pg 5.
Thanks for checking it out.
 

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