EG4 18kPV Q+A general thread
- Thread starter SignatureSolarJames
- Start date
Is it the Main panel or Subpanel? Need more info. I am using a 30 amp, but plan on changing it to a 40amp after I get all the bugs worked out. For safety reasons. But if your panel meets the requirements you can use a 70 amp breaker. Don’t know if that help?
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It's the main panel, 200 amp.
Also keep in mind when sizing the subpanel amps, it really need to be less than the main panel breaker. Because when the battery goes to 20%(no output) and no solar, All the subpanel amps (loads) will pass through the main breaker.
Newest manual https://eg4electronics.com/backend/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/EG4-18KPV-12LV-Manual.pdf
Newest manual https://eg4electronics.com/backend/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/EG4-18KPV-12LV-Manual.pdf
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The breaker in the main panel (where this is to be hooked up) has a main disconnect breaker labeled "200".
nuke
New Member
If the LOAD wiring and subpanel bus support it, though, do I really need a subpanel breaker smaller than 200a? I get that it could trip the main 70a breaker if I draw more than 70a, but having a sub panel breaker at 70a would trip too. I guess one is more annoying than the other but it's not a safety thing, no?
Just wire it like you would an appliance. On the bus. On the opposite end.of the bus as the main 200amp breaker.
I have a 125 amp subpanel breaker. I was referring to total load of amps.
Please clarify: you have a 200A main breaker on the load center and you are going to have the 18k supply the load center? Are you planning to do this by having the utility power go into the Grid side of the 18k and the Load side of the 18k goes to the 200A main breaker on the load center? Or are you trying to back-feed the load center through a breaker installed in the load center? No utility power, only solar? Or other configuration?
From the "Grid" on the 18k to a breaker on the load center.
From the "Load" to a breaker on the load center.
At least that is my current thinking unless that thinking is faulty.
If my thinking is correct, then I need to know what size breakers to put in the load center to attach these two items too.
The sum of the main service breaker plus 125% of inverter output (50amp) cannot exceed 120% (62.5 amp) bus bar rating. So 225amp bus bar 270amps, 200 amps bus bar 240 amps. 225 amp bus bar 70 amp breaker, 200 amp bus bar 40 amp breaker. someone correct me if I am incorrect.
From the "Load" to a breaker on the load center.
Are you referring to the critical load subpanel? If you are talking about coming out of the main panel and go through the 18Kpv back to the main panel you need to change to a different wiring diagram. Look at the feeder tap diagram in the manual.
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Coming out of the main panel to the Grid input of the 18KPV and then back to the main panel from the Load output in the 18kpv to the main panel.
I don’t think it can be done that way. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
why are you hooking the grid side of the inverter to the main load at all? What you describe is a circular path... what is your overall set up in terms of solar, battery, generator, grid?
Probably because I don't understand how it should be done, which is why I am here.
OK no problem just wasn't sure if I was missing something. But what are the components in your set up? Grid or grid-less, solar or no solar, battery or no battery? If grid, what Amperage is your service? Inverter covering all loads or critical loads? Etc. Would help us to know those
I have 32 panels 370 watts each that I plan to organize into 4 strings of 328w at 10.79 amps
My house is currently connected to the grid with a 200a panel which has a sub panel in the basement 100' away which runs off of a 100 amp breaker.
I will have batteries, but do not have them now. I was thinking of 6 EG4s.
My grid supplier tells me I use 32-34 kw per day.
My goal is to "cut the cable" when possible or when it fails, so the inverter will need to cover all loads.
I have a 12kw generator which supplies enough to run the entire house when the power goes out.
I use propane for heat and some cooking.
G
Great, that helps a ton. Last question: do you have any breakers upstream from the 200A load box? Like is there a breaker outside on or next to the utility service, that when you flip it cuts all power to the load box? Or is the 200A breaker in the load box the only breaker between meter and you?
Yes that's the only breaker.
I am beginning to suspect that I will have to break the incoming line?
I believe you have only two choices given those parameters:
1) you can use a supply side tap which will require the utility turning off the power while you tap into the lines from the meter, see the supply side tap w whole home backup diagram in the manual.
2) You can install a 200A breaker between the meter and the load center which also requires utility to turn off power, and then use a feeder tap that comes off the leg running from the new 200A breaker to the load panel, see feeder tap w whole home backup diagram in manual.
You can't connect to the utility by backfeeding through a breaker in the main panel because that method maxes out at 70A which isn't enough for your whole home backup
1) you can use a supply side tap which will require the utility turning off the power while you tap into the lines from the meter, see the supply side tap w whole home backup diagram in the manual.
2) You can install a 200A breaker between the meter and the load center which also requires utility to turn off power, and then use a feeder tap that comes off the leg running from the new 200A breaker to the load panel, see feeder tap w whole home backup diagram in manual.
You can't connect to the utility by backfeeding through a breaker in the main panel because that method maxes out at 70A which isn't enough for your whole home backup
Do you know what the Grid input on the 18k is designed to take?
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