Zapper77
Renaissance Man
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2022
- Messages
- 2,344
Please share your settings. Use https://monitor.eg4electronics.com/WManage/web/login
Need to see
Charge
Discharge
Force Discharge
Peak Shaving
EG4 18kPV Q+A general thread
- Thread starter SignatureSolarJames
- Start date
Need to see
Charge
Discharge
Force Discharge
Peak Shaving
TheFlumph
New Member
So I believe I have settled on this setup after deciding not to do a backfeed breaker. Ive looked at a few awg charts and seem to be getting different results. Do I need 2/0 or 3/0 wire for the 200a pass through? And I will need to use that awg for all wires from the meter through the switches and into the inverter and main breaker panel?
ive seen so many 18kpv install photos where the wire looked way smaller going into the inverter, I suppose they were not doing 200a?
Im gonna use polaris connectors to do the feeder tap.
and what size ground would you recommend?
last thing, my current breaker box has the neutral bonded at the load panel/main breaker panel. This diagram says it needs to be moved to the main service breaker?
ive seen so many 18kpv install photos where the wire looked way smaller going into the inverter, I suppose they were not doing 200a?
Im gonna use polaris connectors to do the feeder tap.
and what size ground would you recommend?
last thing, my current breaker box has the neutral bonded at the load panel/main breaker panel. This diagram says it needs to be moved to the main service breaker?
btrocke
New Member
Here are screenshots of the settings. I don’t see 20% state of charge called out anywhere in the settings. Just 10%
Attachments
Zapper77
Renaissance Man
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2022
- Messages
- 2,344
Zapper77
Renaissance Man
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2022
- Messages
- 2,344
Are you using a 3rd party software to make changes?
btrocke
New Member
It’s cut off. It’s set to 200. Mobile site isn’t really the greatest. lol.
btrocke
New Member
Just got Home Assistant integration set up yesterday. Issue has been going since I got the batteries. Goal is to eventually automate battery charging on off peak time when it’s going to be cloudy.
Zapper77
Renaissance Man
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2022
- Messages
- 2,344
Try switching on-grid disconnect to 25% and off-grid disconnect to 10%
Let us know if the system responds the same.
What firmware version do you have installed?
Last edited:
Zapper77
Renaissance Man
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2022
- Messages
- 2,344
3/0 Copper and I think 2awg ground.
Check with your inspector. They may allow you to keep the old bonding location.
btrocke
New Member
EG4 updated the firmware remotely when I first got the inverter installed because of weird issues I was having before when I first added batteries. I’ll monitor the changes and see how it reacts
Attachments
nuke
New Member
I'd update the firmware all the way to 1717.
As a general principle, I know there's an 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' mentality but especially during the teething phases of a new product, companies like luxpower and eg4 are finding and fixing lots of issues. Worth upgrading.
As a general principle, I know there's an 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' mentality but especially during the teething phases of a new product, companies like luxpower and eg4 are finding and fixing lots of issues. Worth upgrading.
TheFlumph
New Member
No inspector here but I’m going to hire an electrician to check my work when I’m finished. Thanks for the help.
I think I should be ok as long as I’m not bonding in multiple places, but I’m certainly not an expert.
nuke
New Member
3/0 copper hots/neutrals with 4 or 6awg ground. No harm in going bigger.
Arguably you don't need to go larger than your service entrance wires, but ignoring those sorts of caveats that may or may not pass the muster of your AHJ, 3/0 copper will definitely work for 200a.
Quattrohead
Solar Wizard
Or 4/0 aluminum is fine too.
Not sure on the current price of metals but aluminum is generally a lot cheaper than copper. Most terminals are rated for both copper and aluminum but might want to check, just to be safe. Not sure it's recommended, but when the system is down, I like to go around and re-torque the terminals, especially the large gauge ones.
zanydroid
Solar Wizard
It's not recommended, in fact I think it's considered actively harmful by some code and electrician cognoscenti.
Now there are people that will do it once (sometimes after an hour), the idea being that it deals with what happens after the conductor mechanically relax a bit.
Yeah, I was thinking it was no longer recommended, old habits and all that, but the number of times I've ran across a loose connection, at work or home, and the number of times a loose connection caused downtime and burnt wires ... still like to check them. Usually these are the larger gauge wires which I feel might tend to 'relax'.
zanydroid
Solar Wizard
Those might have been done wrong in the first place.
I think what folks are worried about with retorquing it semi regularly is overtightening it / distorting the conductors/strands more and more each time you have at it again. IE the termination torque is engineered/tested for initial torque and then let it settle over time.
dmkjr
Solar Enthusiast
I see the changelog shows improvements to light flickering. Anyone notice actual improvements?
Is there a browser accessible link to the change log?
Quattrohead
Solar Wizard
Yes the AC output is much more robust now, in perceivable from utility most of the time.
Quattrohead
Solar Wizard
Change log is in the app or there is a link from the web monitoring system somewhere but I'm not in front of it at the moment so I couldn't tell you exactly where.
Attachments
Attachments
To be perfectly honest, I was using FAAB-OEOE before switching to FAAB-1717. Before it would crank my Quincy Compressor slower and I had time after 6 revolutions to manually shut it off realizing it was not going to take off.
Now with 1717 it turns it over faster but just not long enough before it shuts the inverter off. Also notice after 2 attempts trying on the 3rd attempt it takes over 3 minutes before the inverter comes back on. It still starts my dust collector but I sense the motor starter on the collector is the only reason why, it struggles. So I think it may be better line balance power but does not sustain that surge as long as before. He turned the amps up to about as much as possible in the safe range but did not do the trick. I have not seen a single light flicker sense the update. I plan to stay with this update for now and give it more time to see if I notice better change. Markus helped me with this, he's an important asset for this inverter.
Now with 1717 it turns it over faster but just not long enough before it shuts the inverter off. Also notice after 2 attempts trying on the 3rd attempt it takes over 3 minutes before the inverter comes back on. It still starts my dust collector but I sense the motor starter on the collector is the only reason why, it struggles. So I think it may be better line balance power but does not sustain that surge as long as before. He turned the amps up to about as much as possible in the safe range but did not do the trick. I have not seen a single light flicker sense the update. I plan to stay with this update for now and give it more time to see if I notice better change. Markus helped me with this, he's an important asset for this inverter.
nuke
New Member
are you guys upgrading the lcd firmware too?
Similar threads
