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diy solar

EG4 6000XP Released, ordered. Let's Go!

ok I was able too get on those, but it looks nothing like in the manual and never was able to change battery settings to lead acid for lithium without closed loop communication in apple or web app. Used LCD screen on inverter to change.
 
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Datasheet shows max usable current as "17/17A". I would read that as each MPPT is capable of taking 17A.
17Amps for each MPPT, though it can handle up to 25A on each MPPT, per the specs.

But, what about that 480V VOC……is that 480V VOC total max for the Inverter, combining both MPPTs?

Or is each MPPT rated for up to 240V VOC?

The manual isn’t very clear on that!

I have deduced that the 4,000 watts divided by 17 amps = approx. 235 volts, for EACH MPPT.

If I am wrong on that, can anybody please set me straight? Thanks!
 
17Amps for each MPPT, though it can handle up to 25A on each MPPT, per the specs.

But, what about that 480V VOC……is that 480V VOC total max for the Inverter, combining both MPPTs?

Or is each MPPT rated for up to 240V VOC?

The manual isn’t very clear on that!

I have deduced that the 4,000 watts divided by 17 amps = approx. 235 volts, for EACH MPPT.

If I am wrong on that, can anybody please set me straight? Thanks!
I'm pretty positive the 480V VOC max is for each MPPT, but I haven't received mine yet so I can't speak from experience yet..
 
17Amps for each MPPT, though it can handle up to 25A on each MPPT, per the specs.

But, what about that 480V VOC……is that 480V VOC total max for the Inverter, combining both MPPTs?

Or is each MPPT rated for up to 240V VOC?

The manual isn’t very clear on that!

I have deduced that the 4,000 watts divided by 17 amps = approx. 235 volts, for EACH MPPT.

If I am wrong on that, can anybody please set me straight? Thanks!
It's 480 volts max for both MPPTs, you can have strings with up to a 480volt max open circuit voltage on each MPPT
 
So to be clear on first sentence in the manual. Both MPPTs could have different panels? When in parallel strings must be equal? Also maybe haven’t made it that far in the manual. My panel in my shop where I am installing is not N/G bonded. How would I set it up? Keep them separate or bond them and where? Thanks in advance!
If the panel in your shop is a subpanel off your main panel, then the N/G bond is already provided in the main panel and should NOT be bonded anywhere else. Even if your panel is a purely offgrid/load panel that is not connected to your main panel, if you are providing AC input from your main service, then the N/G bond is still being provided by the main panel.

Only enable the N/G bond in the inverter if the shop is not a subpanel to your main panel and you are not providing AC into the inverter from the main or subpanel. In that case you could either enable the N/G bond in the firmware settings or you could just do the N/G bond in your load panel.

There should only be a single N/G bond in your circuits or you have potential issues from ground loops.

This has nothing to do, BTW, with grounding the panel frames.
 
It's 480 volts max for both MPPTs, you can have strings with up to a 480volt max open circuit voltage on each MPPT
Thanks, Gavin, as I like hearing that, however, 480 volts X 17 Amps = 8,160 Watts, and that’s why I am getting confused, because each MPPT is rated for only 4,000 watts, up to (5,000 watts max)! Is my math wrong?
 
You can overpanel on controllers (more wattage connected than max output) as long as you stay below max voltage and amperage. Lets you get more production during non summer months.
 
Thanks, Gavin, as I like hearing that, however, 480 volts X 17 Amps = 8,160 Watts, and that’s why I am getting confused, because each MPPT is rated for only 4,000 watts, up to (5,000 watts max)! Is my math wrong?


Woah there. I’m not PV girl. So I’m not sure why you responded to her with my name.

The max usable voltage looks like 380v. They allow the 480v for cold weather coefficient issues. That gives it some head room.

You can often over panel mppts in this way. If you had the right panels you could do it with the 6500’s also. There is an option in the menu to combine the PV inputs.
 
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You can often over panel mppts in this way. If you had the right panels you could do it with the 6500’s also. There is an option in the menu to combine the PV inputs.
What does turning on the Combine option do? Lock the MPPT controls together so they don't fight when sharing string, and you get 2x the capacity through the magic of paralleling all the transistors and whatnot?
 
What does turning on the Combine option do? Lock the MPPT controls together so they don't fight when sharing string, and you get 2x the capacity through the magic of paralleling all the transistors and whatnot?
That's the way I understand it.
 
If the panel in your shop is a subpanel off your main panel, then the N/G bond is already provided in the main panel and should NOT be bonded anywhere else. Even if your panel is a purely offgrid/load panel that is not connected to your main panel, if you are providing AC input from your main service, then the N/G bond is still being provided by the main panel.

Only enable the N/G bond in the inverter if the shop is not a subpanel to your main panel and you are not providing AC into the inverter from the main or subpanel. In that case you could either enable the N/G bond in the firmware settings or you could just do the N/G bond in your load panel.

There should only be a single N/G bond in your circuits or you have potential issues from ground loops.

This has nothing to do, BTW, with grounding the panel frames.
Ok thanks for this makes sense. My shop has a meter base with a disconnect and the N/G bond is there. This then feeds into my shop panel where I do not have N/G bond. However grounding and Neural are common between both panels. I see the light. Anyway, that brings up another question. This 6000XP will being moved up the cabin and likely a 18kPv will be going in between the Main panel with disconnect and is G/N bonded and panel supplying shop with power. Through the wall into a wire way then off to the 18kPv, then off to the panel (no N?G bond) through a wire way. In this case does N/G bond need to enabled in the 18kPv? Shop is a 40' by 60' with 200A service. I have a 7.5HP 80 gal compressor, Electric/air tire machine, 240v Hotsie and 240v welder that will be my biggest loads. The 200A pass through will be helpful when running them.
 
You also need to factor the temperature coefficient. But that's a different topic.

The problem you're going to encounter from clipping is related to the amps. I think the vast majority of inverters in this range and even up to the 18kpv (for two of the PV inputs) or a Solark are going to have a max amp rating somewhere around 17a. Producing higher amps, within reason, won't damage anything - the inverter just won't draw more than it's rated for. So your 4500w string of panels at 22a is going to clip at 17a (or lower in hot weather), leaving you only getting usable production of around 3500w. That's a lot of waste.

If you change that to 4 strings of 6 panels you're good on the voltage at around 250v and you're good on the amps at 11a. But you need four MPPT inputs, or something like the 18kpv which allows 25a on the #1 MPPT and 17a on the other two. One way to do that would be with two of these 6000XP inverters.

Another option would be to do what @Zwy did and install separate charge controllers for each string, but now you're incurring more expense and complicating the install.
I've been running into this same issue myself tying in (16) 450w panels into two EG4 6000XP inverters in parallel. I chatted with tech support Friday and they had suggested I separate my (16) 450w panels into four quad groups and bring two strings into each inverter. That would bring in roughly 360v @ 20amps into the inverter through two separate legs. It will also allow some flexibility when considering the temperature coefficient at my location which is a LOT (-20F during the winter). And lastly they said to try and keep the groups from having overly shaded portions on the same string because the power drop on one panel will effect the entire string on that series. Hope this helps!
 
tying in (16) 450w panels into two EG4 6000XP inverters in parallel. I chatted with tech support Friday and they had suggested I separate my (16) 450w panels into four quad groups and bring two strings into each inverter. That would bring in roughly 360v @ 20amps into the inverter through two separate legs. !

The math doesn't add up.
 
I'm sorry for the confusion here. I have two inverters that I will be used in parallel. But for this discussion we talk about one inverter for less confusion. My EG4 6000XP inverter has two (2 pos. 2 neg. legs) to accept two separate PV inputs. Now, they have the ability to accept a total of 8000 watts / 480volts / 17 amps for the inverter total. I checked the math on 8000 watts and if I'm doing this correctly, divided by 480volts max input, I get 16.7 amps. In order to maximize the most input, I would need to distribute my panel loads so it doesn't exceed these markers. My issue is I don't know why customer service would suggest I try and input two strings of 4 panels each of my 450watt panels (Each panel will produce roughly 176 volts). 2 Strings x 4 panels in series or 176w @ 10.2amps = 352 volts @ 20.4amps. My inverter states optimum amps should be below 17 amps otherwise clipping will occur. Now, lastly if I multiply 352 x 20.4 I get 7,181 watts. With clipping at 17 amps I am only left with 5,984 watts.

Do you have any suggestions on how I could configure my panels to give me the most power? I think this configure is as close as I can get factoring the temperature coefficient increase with our low temps here in Maine. In other words, I have to have a lower starting voltage to factor in increases in hopes that these will not max out my 480 volt max input. Hope this explination helps here! Sorry again, I am still learning how to talk about solar after two years of starting my journey:)
 
my 450watt panels (Each panel will produce roughly 176 volts). 2 Strings x 4 panels in series or 176w @ 10.2amps = 352 volts @ 20.4amps.
I initially thought that you might have made a simple mistake in an earlier post, but this latest post makes it clear that somewhere along the way you have gotten a woefully incorrect understanding of how all this works. I seriously doubt that any panel you’re looking at would “produce roughly 176 volts,” and it appears that you are confusing volts, amps, and watts.

There are plenty of people on this forum who will help you get it straightened out, but we will need some basic info. Let’s start with the specs on the panels you are looking at and go from there
 
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