Lt.Dan
Solar Wizard
I see UI-1699B is in the description of the item on their website, I'm guessing this was recently added?I don't see UL-1699B listed in the ATM/certifications. Is that going to be available?
I see UI-1699B is in the description of the item on their website, I'm guessing this was recently added?I don't see UL-1699B listed in the ATM/certifications. Is that going to be available?
I also had flickering/buzzing with my Sol-Ark, but after replacing with higher quality lights, it has completely went away. Even with some cheaper dimmers.I mentioned it because I have it, admittedly with cheap and nasty builder grade lamps and cheap Amazon dimmers. However, the dimmers work fine on good lamps from HD.
Brand and model of lights?
It's a standard common neutral setup.Saw Will's initial review of the inverter today. Really encouraging. Hoping to see some testing results which can confirm if this inverter will have NGB concerns or if its all configured correctly.
Seems that this device is checking all the boxes.Screenshot from wills video:
View attachment 147542
All the neutrals go to one busbar - Clearly common-neutral. I have said for a long time that common-neutral is the best way to go for stationary systems.
I do wonder about a system like mine where the N-G bond is located 90 feet away from the inverters and load panels. There is some resistance to the bond that far away. I went to a common neutral and the light flicker became worse. I do see voltage on the neutral to ground at the loads panel less than 3V. When my lights are flickering under inverter power, I've measured 7V. I don't know the reason why I'm seeing the increase during the flicker. I went thru and checked the bond at the meter pole and ensured neutral and ground are tight in the house panels.Screenshot from wills video:
View attachment 147542
All the neutrals go to one busbar - Clearly common-neutral. I have said for a long time that common-neutral is the best way to go for stationary systems.
Have you put a clamp meter on the ground conductor?I do wonder about a system like mine where the N-G bond is located 90 feet away from the inverters and load panels. There is some resistance to the bond that far away. I went to a common neutral and the light flicker became worse. I do see voltage on the neutral to ground at the loads panel less than 3V. When my lights are flickering under inverter power, I've measured 7V. I don't know the reason why I'm seeing the increase during the flicker. I went thru and checked the bond at the meter pole and ensured neutral and ground are tight in the house panels.
Voltage drop tests should always be done with a load in place. Otherwise it would be a waste of time.Have you put a clamp meter on the ground conductor?
You shouldn't measure any voltage drop, if there's no load on the conductor.
If you have the length. Wrapping the conductor through the clamp multiple times, multiplies the reading. Or you can add a piece, just for testing.Voltage drop tests should always be done with a load in place. Otherwise it would be a waste of time.
My clamp meter in the house doesn't measure that low.
That's what I've always done! What more can I possibly complain about in my videos ?Kinda funny, kinda not. You're not a shill, you crap on just about every company![]()
Yes I ran out actually. I did label it with black tape. I didn't even have any red tape to label it.I did not notice till I did the screenshot, but Will has a white wire on the L1 of the load. Electrically that is fine, but that is not to code.... white is defined as the Grounded conductor (Neutral). (It is one of the few defined colors in the NEC). I am sure Will knows that. He probably didn't have any red or black (or any other color) of the correct gauge.
If you have the length. Wrapping the conductor through the clamp multiple times, multiplies the reading. Or you can add a piece, just for testing.
I know, I thought I was being funny but apparently everyone is on blob today ?It really is.
All the big name hybrid inverters are that way.
That is a potential red flag.I do wonder about a system like mine where the N-G bond is located 90 feet away from the inverters and load panels.
the registration is global, the server is north americaI noticed you are supposed to register at
https://monitor.eg4electronics.com/ to get an account to view your data online but noticed that is still going through Alibaba:
11 eqix-sv8.alibaba.com (198.32.176.180) 63.834 ms 58.616 ms *
Please fix. Us should register in US. I don’t like ANY data, especially registration user/pass anywhere but in the USthe registration is global, the server is north america
I'm not clear where exactly data is being stored/sent but that IP# I listed is in California. Here was the trace route (removed the first 5 which were from my internal network and local ISP):Please fix. Us should register in US. I don’t like ANY data, especially registration user/pass anywhere but in the US
It's in Texas but likely part of Alibaba's cloud server farm.11 eqix-sv8.alibaba.com (198.32.176.180) 63.834 ms 58.616 ms *
Some of the geo ip lookups have it wrong. The "eqix-sv8" is the Equinix SV8 datacenter located at 529 Bryant Street, Palo Alto, CA.It's in Texas but likely part of Alibaba's cloud server farm.
Equinix could also be a connection pathway to other US or global endpoints, like AWS Direct Connect.Some of the geo ip lookups have it wrong. The "eqix-sv8" is the Equinix SV8 datacenter located at 529 Bryant Street, Palo Alto, CA.