BTW: Not sure where this should be posted, but it is pretty darn critical as it could KILL an LFP Pack.
Should be:
Thank you @hwse. So I assume the switch is actually SPST then, and two of the leads are to power the light.
You may simply leave the lighted switch AND the basic LCD monitor (which also has a power switch present on the side) disconnected from the 'LCD' port, and kept in a "secret place".
Given the length of the wire this is almost a given. On my build, it must be mounted on the wall of the battery encloser. I can have is to that I reach it from inside the box or outside the box. Neither of these locations can be reached without getting into a locker and cannot be seen by anyone "curious about the battery visiting the cabin."
My trailer installation is similar - underneath a hidden "bench seat" storage area, and no one else will EVER go in there. The cords (for both the GUI and the pushbutton) are too short to reach outside anyway. Outside and above the storage area, visible on the wall to its side, I've got the 3 coulomb-counter/shunt display units. They fortunately only "glow" for 30 seconds when a display control button is pushed, staying dark at other times.
I'll certainly consider that. The connector will be pretty hard to get to once everything is installed. I think I'll mount the button where it can be easily reached, but maybe leave it unplugged normally. If I have to use it I'll go through the effort to plug it in, use it, and then unplug it. Not quite what I wanted, but maybe OK.
Mine will be easy to reach but you need to know where to reach and it cannot be seen.
My JK has not yet deactivated itself, but it probably restarts its shutdown timer whenever it receives charge current OR gets used in a discharging manner. For the case of my "plugged in" fold-down RV travel trailer, that should never actually occur. (Even though I have no access to the JK or its on/off accessories, until I "open up" the TT after moving outside from its "in-garage" storage).
diysolarforum.com
Thanks, amazing!
What was the total cost you paid? I really don't think any amount of packaging would have saved what happened to yours.. It looks like it was run over by something.
I agree with that. But depending on the use you're getting from the battery, I would get a spare no matter if it was damaged or not. If it's a critical source of electricity and the BMS suddenly stops working you don't want to wait a month for a new one to arrive, but heaving a spare, already tested means you can swap it in minutes and be up and running again. This is what I'm planning to do for my vehicle build. I got the 8S versions and started testing, once I'll have the whole system done I'll get another one to keep as a spare. Lifepo4 cells are just chemistry, if they work chances of sudden failure are very slim, and they might slowly degrade at worst. But electronics have so many little parts that just one failure can make the entire hardware not function. If it's not a critical system and you can wait for shipping then, by all means, wait for it to fail, it might work for many years and when it stops you can get a newer and upgraded version.
