Yea I have watched another video from the outsider where he does similar. I just paid almost 1000gbp for a diesel heater and hob combo so I am not going to scrap that idea now .Check this out maybe it would work for you constructed properly
Yea I have watched another video from the outsider where he does similar. I just paid almost 1000gbp for a diesel heater and hob combo so I am not going to scrap that idea now .Check this out maybe it would work for you constructed properly
You can get one of those Diesel Heaters for less then 200 from China.Yea I have watched another video from the outsider where he does similar. I just paid almost 1000gbp for a diesel heater and hob combo so I am not going to scrap that idea now .
Hi. I find your posts are like good cheese. I have to let them mature and come back to them later .Fit insulation, this is the first stage of van conversion.
This the recirculating heated air, not the combustion air for the heater. Your hob/ heater will recirculate .
This takes a small amount of power once running but the start up cycle, around 10 minutes, takes more.
Using the Wallas Duo as an example, startup current is 8 to 10 amps and running current less than 1 amp, ( in the region of 0.8 amp).
Power needed. Regardless of battery bank capacity you will need a charging source. In UK winter, with horizontal panels and perhaps shade, there won't be much solar input. Off grid, the best solution is a battery to battery charger using alternator power.
Estimating electrical power for your heater. Example 6 starts per day, 12 hours run time. Startup power 6 x10 amps x 1/6 hours = 10 Ah.
Run time power, 12 hours x 1 amp = 12Ah. Total power per day heating, 22 Ah.
Engine run time with a 60 amp battery to battery charger, 25 minutes, to restore battery capacity.
With better insulation, including window insulation, the heating requirements will be much less. Self adhesive closed cell foam direct on the metal,
10mm Closed Cell Foam Car or Van Adhesive Waterproof Insulation
10mm Closed Cell Foam Car or Van Adhesive Waterproof Insulation This easy to install black closed cell foam waterproof insulation is ideal for roofs, doors, wheel arches, boot and parcel shelf applications. Once fitted this product will improve the ride quality in your vehicle by reducing engine...www.carinsulation.co.uk
Trying to survive off grid in the UK winter is not easy. Heating will be the least problem, water, washing and toilet needs, doing the laundry , finding somewhere safe to park.
The Fogstar specification recomends a 50 A charge but also suggests the maximum is 100 amps. For a 100Ah battery charging at 0.5 C is recomended for long service life.60a battery to battery charger but isn't that slightly too much for my fogstar drift 105ah? I read that 50% maximum is recommended of total battery capacity so isn't 50a what I want? Can you recommend one to me?
My van is ford transit connect from 2007 so not sure when smart charging was introduced.The Fogstar specification recomends a 50 A charge but also suggests the maximum is 100 amps. For a 100Ah battery charging at 0.5 C is recomended for long service life.
With your situation where you want maximum energy Into the battery in the shortest time, charging over 50 amps is an option
attery to battery chargers available in the UK, Sterling Power, Victron, Renogy, Votronics
It's probable your van has smart charging so the chargers have to be comparable.
In a van, the house, leasure, battery has the negative connected to van metal as does the starter battery so non isolated chargers can be used , ( isolated types can also be used where the negatives are connected to the same point).
"Smart Charging" was introduced somewhere in the 80-90s. It essentially gives the engine computer the ability to regulate charging.My van is ford transit connect from 2007 so not sure when smart charging was introduced.
Contrary to popular belief most alternators do not burn up when charging lithium IF in parallel to the lead starter battery (very important!!)
correct, you should know what you are doing.Just make sure folks know what they're doing, not burning up their alternators by thinking paralleling a lead acid battery solves all their issues.
I actually had the opposite issue with a direct connection, my lithium's would not charge fast enough. I had a 180A alternator and could never get more then 80A going to LFP for extended time.The other issue with charging lithium from a standard alternator is that a lithium battery can soak up every amp the alternator will produce for a lot longer than the average alternator has duty cycle to handle.
if you only want a trickle charger - a DC to DC is fine. A Victron 20A DC to DC is about $150, it takes forever to charge decent sized battery bank.The dc-dc chargers do not seem massively expensive and am not strapped or cash so do not see much advantage with some other option which sounds more fineckety and perhaps more risky on my brand new lithium battery.
I have a 100 lfp battery. I don't need a fridge. Heating, powering tablet ereader and phone and a few fans and that is about it. I don't think that is going to take much? One day is fine so long as I can replenlish day by day. I think 1 day is an overestimate for my small use case though?if you only want a trickle charger - a DC to DC is fine. A Victron 20A DC to DC is about $150, it takes forever to charge decent sized battery bank.
I used to have a 300AH bank in my Van - do the math - 300/20A that would be 15 hours of driving. My not ideal direct connected would average about 60A going to LFP battery - 300/60 = 5 hours - still not great - but much better.
When I see it correctly you are looking at somewhere 100-200AH?
100AH is not a lot of power (1kWH), just running the a small fridge, laptop and some lights - that's barely one day.
only on two of them .......we have a rumor going around on this side of the mountains that you folks all have webbed feet is that true?
I have a 100 lfp battery. I don't need a fridge. Heating, powering tablet ereader and phone and a few fans and that is about it. I don't think that is going to take much? One day is fine so long as I can replenlish day by day. I think 1 day is an overestimate for my small use case though?
you are asking to run a Diesel Heater- those needs about 40w per hour - 40w * 24h = 960WhI have a 100 lfp battery. I don't need a fridge. Heating, powering tablet ereader and phone and a few fans and that is about it. I don't think that is going to take much? One day is fine so long as I can replenlish day by day. I think 1 day is an overestimate for my small use case though?
Well I have no intention of running it 24 hours a day.you are asking to run a Diesel Heater- those needs about 40w per hour - 40w * 24h = 960Wh
Your 100ah *12V = 1200WH - not a lot of extra room.
I know during the winter you don't need a fridge - but during the summer.
When it's cold you need to keep warm and when it's warm you need to keep things cool. It always needs energy.
It is surprising the amount of moisture added to an enclosed space just from breathing .... and cooking definitely adds to it.I notice my mum's car parked next to mine doesn't produce condensation most times while mine does so it must be a product of my breath and cooking so venting seems like it could do the trick here. Perhaps run those through the night while sleeping to vent out the moisture from my body.
you might want to look into one of the many #Vanlife forums. All those questions you had are answered there. We are here more concerned with the Energy side of things.I notice my mum's car parked next to mine doesn't produce condensation most times while mine does so it must be a product of my breath and cooking so venting seems like it could do the trick here. Perhaps run those through the night while sleeping to vent out the moisture from my body.
I started living in it in summer and was able to adapt to not having cooling. Just make food in the morning for the whole day and repeat each day. This did not change my lifestyle much anyway as I would only make for 1-2 days when in an apartment.