diy solar

diy solar

Just Place new Order on Alibaba- 280AH x 8 for 1260.00 USD Delivered, Grade A to Canada

So, no word on them selling battery boxes? Is a battery box really necessary if using these in a van build? As long as you secure them in some way, right? Thinking of placing an order in a week or two, don't need them till mid June.
IMO, you want something to contain them and something to cover the terminals on top. I carried mine in the house last night to do more testing and just a 4S pack was heavy enough. Not sure at my age, I would want to carry two 12V batteries in one case. 10+ years ago, no problem. If you know someone or have a pockethhole jig, then make a plywood box for them.

Still have the same 0.5V voltage drop on the fridge's volt meter when the compressor is running. Even though I changed the cig plug to a Anderson Powerpole. I guess the 8 feet of 16AWG wire has something to do with it. Or it's the way the meter reads the voltage. Because the BMS readout shows the voltage the same compressor on or off.
 
Still have the same 0.5V voltage drop on the fridge's volt meter when the compressor is running. Even though I changed the cig plug to a Anderson Powerpole. I guess the 8 feet of 16AWG wire has something to do with it. Or it's the way the meter reads the voltage. Because the BMS readout shows the voltage the same compressor on or off.

24v fridge?
 
24v fridge?
12V/24V-110V-120V US model ICECO VL60. running on 12V right now. Been on the battery for 19 hours and used just under 5% of the battery. Had 307.xxAH of 308AH when I started last night.
 
16 feet round trip.
Yeah I understand that. ICECO thinks this wire size is OK for 12V/24V operation.
When it first arrived, I wasn't sure if it had been loaded top side up on the trucks. So I emailed the Company asking how long sitting upright before I could plug it in. Sent the email and went to sleep, they answered 4 hours should be good and it had passed that mark when I was sleeping. I sent an email asking about the voltage drop I saw on 12V when the compressor was running, but never got an answer to that. I'm gonna send another one again and see if they have an answer this time. I am going to take the fuse block out of the circuit and see if it is causing any loss, but I doubt if there is from that. The traces on the PC board are pretty big.
 
12V/24V-110V-120V US model ICECO VL60. running on 12V right now. Been on the battery for 19 hours and used just under 5% of the battery. Had 307.xxAH of 308AH when I started last night.

I make that to be ~250 watt hours per day.
Nice.
 
If you can up your system to 24v than will drop the transmission loses by 75%
 
16 * 12.8 / 20 * 24 = 245.76 wh ?
Show off..... I need to remember that formula.

The system will go in my pickup with a DC-DC/MPPT charger all at 12V.
The last time I ran it with one side at 34F and the other side at 04F the battery lasted 6.5 days.
I have it set big side still 34F but the small side 38F this time.
Once I get about 400W solar hooked up, it's gonna take a bunch of no sun days to be a problem.
 
My 280 ah cells, same as the Xuba, also check out. Ordered from Rain at Dongguan Lightning Energy Technology Co., Ltd. as Amy at Xuba was out of cells at the time. I did have a few inconveniences with Dongguan...but all in all, it worked out...though I think I'll order from Amy next time. Anyway, I just tested my 8 cells and they gave a smidge more than 280ah on a slow test using my 185watt max tester. (Took 40 hours). Thanks for all the information people are sharing...super helpful. Cheers!
I'm about to place an order with Rain as well. What kind of verification did you request?
 
I was going to order some a month or two ago but never did. I’ve read all the current updates and decided I still want to order some. I placed an order for 16 of them. This is officially the first step in my first solar build and I’m pretty excited! I went with sea shipping to Oregon. I’m not in a big rush but I am excited to get them and begin initial testing.
Nice to find a fellow Oregonian here! How long did it take to get your cells? I'm about to place an order with them just waiting for some verification videos
 
Just finished chatting with Amy, she' drafting order now.
So, total price:

Product price + freight = $330.68*2+$299=$960.36 with all duties and taxes paid to my door. She gave me a 30 day shipping estimate. Now, I just hope I don't have issues with payment like others have.
 
Nice to find a fellow Oregonian here! How long did it take to get your cells? I'm about to place an order with them just waiting for some verification videos
Hey there! Well I had just placed my order recently so haven’t received them yet, I opted for sea shipping as I’m not I a big enough rush to pay for air freight.
also, for what it’s worth, I placed my order before she sent me the photos/videos. I was ok with that. She sent me good photos and videos before actually shipping. Mine were officially shipped out on 5/5, super excited to get them!


I know some people had payment issues depending on which credit card they tried. I used my NFCU platinum card (visa) and it went through first try.
 
Hey there! Well I had just placed my order recently so haven’t received them yet, I opted for sea shipping as I’m not I a big enough rush to pay for air freight.
also, for what it’s worth, I placed my order before she sent me the photos/videos. I was ok with that. She sent me good photos and videos before actually shipping. Mine were officially shipped out on 5/5, super excited to get them!


I know some people had payment issues depending on which credit card they tried. I used my NFCU platinum card (visa) and it went through first try.
Awesome! I just sent my payment this morning, however I ordered through Dongguan Lightning Energy. I was able to get 8 280Ah cells for $916 with shipping included.
 
Any concerns with building RV battery bank with these cells? I've read some posts feeling smaller cells are less prone to damage in RVs and boats. Is that legit or old wives tales??

We have the ultimate RV- an offshore sailboat that has taken storm beatings that would make any off road RV experience look like a stroll in the park. Smaller cells = more cells= more space= more movement...total BS.

Small cells=more cells=more movement=more bus bars=harder to secure. A full on old wives tale

@mndare I think you are being pretty cavalier about this, especially considering the stakes, and maybe voicing an opinion about something you haven't fully thought through. What you are calling "total BS" "A full on old wives tale" comes from one of the most well regarded resources on LiFePO4 for marine applications, which in turn based the information off information from a Sales Manager at Sinopoly and a limited number of reported failures of large form-factor prismatic cells. You reference smaller cells having more movement, but a well secured pack shouldn't be moving at all, and the additional risk with large cells isn't external, its the increased risk of internal mechanical failure.

The article acknowledges that the findings are tentative and the data is very limited, but states that "All big-brand commercial marine lithium battery packs on the market today are built from cells no larger than 200Ah." and that the "sales manager at Sinopoly I was talking to was adamant about using 100Ah or 200Ah cells only for assembling marine battery banks, with 100Ah being preferred and 200Ah acceptable."

Here are the full excerpts relevant to this topic, but I encourage you to read the full series:
Cell Size
(full article here)

Single 3.2V prismatic LiFePO4 cells can nowadays be obtained in huge capacity, as high as 10000Ah. Commonly available cells range between 40Ah and maybe 1000Ah. It should be pointed out that the larger sizes are intended for stationary applications where no accelerations, vibrations or shocks are ever experienced.

A sales manager at Sinopoly I was talking to was adamant about using 100Ah or 200Ah cells only for assembling marine battery banks, with 100Ah being preferred and 200Ah acceptable. Large cells simply don’t have the structural strength-to-weight ratio required to be taken to sea on board small crafts and would exhibit shortened life due to internal mechanical damage arising from on-going vessel motion. It is common sense: as a cell becomes larger, its internal weight increases much faster than the rigidity and surface area of the casing and the casing is all what holds the plates together in a prismatic cell.

Failures have been reported on vessels equipped with 700Ah cells following ocean passages: some cells were suddenly found to be losing charge inexplicably, rendering the battery bank completely unmanageable and the matter ended in a complete write-off. All big-brand commercial marine lithium battery packs on the market today are built from cells no larger than 200Ah.

While there certainly are examples of marine DIY systems that were built with large cells in series without issues, closer inspection usually also reveals a houseboat usage or infrequent good weather, sheltered waters sailing. In other words, the data point is null and void if the intent is sailing and designing upon the assumption that the boat won’t be going anywhere would be questionable.

Physical cell dimensions, space availability on board and interconnection topology are the other factors that influence the final choice of cell model. 200Ah cells are usually taller and require more “headroom”.
Failure Following Mechanical Damage
(full article here)

A very interesting report [4] into the safety of lithium batteries in general was published in 2011 by the Fire Protection Research Foundation. Besides covering a lot of the information already presented here, it provides interesting and uncommon insights:

Mechanical damage (crush or penetration) that occurs at electrode edges is significantly more likely to cause cell thermal runaway than damage perpendicular to electrode surfaces.

This was demonstrated in specific tests in which the narrow edges of the cells were mechanically challenged, rather than their main faces.

The explanation is simple and logical: damage at the edges of the plates tends to lead to folding-over of the electrodes, with significant risks of heavy short-circuit; compression or punctures perpendicular to the plate separators results in much more benign damage in comparison.

I am only aware of one instance where marine lithium batteries may have failed following mechanical damage on a yacht: the crash of the Volvo 70 racer Team Vestas Wind on offshore coral reefs in the Indian Ocean in 2014.

The investigation report only contains two very succinct mentions of the Mastervolt lithium battery packs present on board, one to indicate that the batteries started venting following the accident and were transported to a nearby beach, and the second to mention that they were later found to have burned themselves out.

The document blames the failure on immersion in seawater, but a simple calculation based on the conductivity of sea water shows that this would only result in discharge currents of a few amps. Water ingress within the cells is also unlikely due to their sealed nature, the lack of water pressure and the fact that the relief valve is designed to open on internal over-pressure.

A tentative explanation is that the shock from the sudden impact at high speed caused the elements within the cell casings to shift, bruising the edges of the plates and creating a short-circuit. The cells themselves were of standard 180Ah/3.2V LiFePO4 prismatic construction.
If the violent impact indeed caused them to short-circuit internally, then it illustrates the foolishness of using large format LFP cells for building marine house banks as some have already done, sometimes resorting to 400Ah or even 700Ah individual units. It would also greatly strengthen the case for mechanically clamping the cells together.

I think one could make a reasonable argument that based on this data alone, there isn't really enough evidence to say one way or another whether large cells are a risk on boats or offroad vehicles (in fact, this is my perspective). But I also think its reasonable to say that because there is some evidence to suggest large cells may be more failure prone due to internal mechanical damage in certain applications, and because this can be logically explained by the the lower ratio of external structure to internal size/weight, that an abundance of caution is more than reasonable, especially in high stakes applications.

If you disagree with the advice of the article or have a higher risk tolerance that's fine, but to write off a reasonable concern from a reputable source so completely and publicly as "total BS" and "A full on old wives tale" feels irresponsible to me and maybe a little naive.

I don't pretend to be anywhere close to well informed or an expert on this topic, which is why I defer to caution, and to industry best practices and the opinions of those more knowledgeable and experienced than myself.
 
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In an hour it will be 5 days, both sides set fridge and charged my tablet from 0% today. By my SBMS dashboard, I've used 100AH so far. It says I have 67% left right now. I also have the fridge set to go lower before shutting off this time.
 
About to buy 8 of these. Sent Amy a message, but forgot about the time difference. I'll have to check tonight.

For a newbie, what is the basic equipment needed and the basic BMS? Is the BMS Will has on his site simple to use on this 8S battery pack?
I see someone else said to look at this link on this site: BMS - Mobile Solar Power Made Easy!
Which points to either the Daly 3.2V... but which amp and port configuration?
Or the 100A 7S~16S above it. Which would be easier to setup and use for a newbie?

Then there's the basics:
$30 ISDT BattGo BG-8S Battery Meter, LCD Display Digital Battery Capacity Checker Battery Balancer Battery Tester for LiPo/Life/Li-ion/NiMH/Nicd: Toys & Games

Amazon.com: bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt: Industrial & Scientific

AiLi Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage Current Meter Voltmeter Ammeter 100V 350A Caravan RV Motorhome 999 AH - - Amazon.com
$33 Clamp Meter, KKmoon AC/DC Digital Clamp Meter for Measuring AC/DC Voltage, AC/DC Current, Frequency, Duty Cycle, Diode, Resistance, Continuity, Transistors Test, NCV Clamp Multimeter - - Amazon.com

Is this about it to get this DIY battery setup? before adding the wires and shutoffs, shunts to the All-in-One? Battery box is a question... but setup the cells with the BMS and use 'box' setup for terminals that then go the the All-in-One, right?
 
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