Love this Dual Fuse. Any reason why everybody not using it?

[kenkoh]

Recommended by Steve_S & Bob142. This is so much cleaner and less cutting, crimping.

Blue Sea 2151 Dual MRBF Terminal Fuse Block

<div class="product-description"> <p><span class="sddesc">These fuse blocks attach right to your 5/16" battery post, and accept connections with a 5/16" lug. This model is similar to the Blue Sea 5191, but has two separate fuses in the same assembly. <st

baymarinesupply.com

 

[Craig]

Those are great and recommended by others here.

 

[Steve_S]

Psssttttt our zekrets come out now....

INDEPENDENT SOURCE type:
This one: https://www.bluesea.com/products/5194/MRBF_Surface_Mount_Fuse_Block_-_Independent_Source

COMMON SOURCE TYPE:
MRBF Surface Mount Fuse Block - Common Source 5196

Blue Sea products are the bomb. I got turned onto these types of Fuses by Samlex actually, theirs actually cost more but the exact same product.

 

[JeepHammer]

What is the buss amp load rating? (And what will it actually take?)

 

[John Frum]

1. Not everyone knows about them.
2. There are specific fuses that are better for certain applications.
3. Some people choose breakers whether they are the optimal solution or not.
4. etc...

 

[Steve_S]

@JeepHammer follow the link above to see the specs for all the different variants from BlueSea.
@smoothJoey Both Breakers & Fuses have places within a solar system build. It's not a matter of "one or the other" they are used in combination, it is more a matter of what is more appropriate for it's particular use. A fuse is the last resort fail safe.

 

[Bob142]

COMMON SOURCE TYPE:
MRBF Surface Mount Fuse Block - Common Source 5196

I'm using this one on a build right now. As well as the single MRBF terminal fuse block.

 

[John Frum]

Just realised the thread slugline is rhetorical.
Damn autism

 

[ghostwriter66]

So we looked at these previously -- and man they fall into the "nice to have" ... but at $75 or so bucks -- and as many as we would need -- we just went with a nice 200A bus bar with 4 studs and connected in-line fuses to the bus bar .. i think our total cost was $40 for virtually the same thing -- although not as sexy as the all-n-one pictured above ...

 

[JeepHammer]

So we looked at these previously -- and man they fall into the "nice to have" ... but at $75 or so bucks -- and as many as we would need -- we just went with a nice 200A bus bar with 4 studs and connected in-line fuses to the bus bar .. i think our total cost was $40 for virtually the same thing -- although not as sexy as the all-n-one pictured above ...

I agree.
I think it's a 'Maxi-Fuse' that are available at every auto parts store and are a few bucks.
I'm fond of fusible links, fuse wire that's pennies per inch also, but when you aren't used to working with it can have mixed results...

 

[Rider]

Recommended by Steve_S & Bob142. This is so much cleaner and less cutting, crimping.

With large gauge wires, there is a lot of strain on the connection point. I use the singles, but would not use the double. I'd opt for the surface mount multi-fuse holder Steve_S showed.

 

[Bob142]

With large gauge wires, there is a lot of strain on the connection point. I use the singles, but would not use the double. I'd opt for the surface mount multi-fuse holder Steve_S showed.

I agree. I have a double that I tried in a current build where I've got 1/0 to an Anderson SB175 off of it and went "oh crap, that's just a big lever to unscrew my connections" and went back to the single along with the surface mount.

 

[kenkoh]

1. Not everyone knows about them.
2. There are specific fuses that are better for certain applications.
3. Some people choose breakers whether they are the optimal solution or not.
4. etc...

With large gauge wires, there is a lot of strain on the connection point. I use the singles, but would not use the double. I'd opt for the surface mount multi-fuse holder Steve_S showed.

Good point. But I intend to secure all the wires very neat, no strain on my build.

 

[kernel]

I jse them heavily. 32v max.....
And i second..... have a bus and have an extra space on it.

 

[kenkoh]

I agree. I have a double that I tried in a current build where I've got 1/0 to an Anderson SB175 off of it and went "oh crap, that's just a big lever to unscrew my connections" and went back to the single along with the surface mount.

I've settled on 2 AWG to my 1200w inverter with 130A fuse. I'll secure the wires up so there is no strain on the termials. You see how neat my diagrams are the real build will be just as neat and perfect. The only question I have is these MRBF are rated 'Slow' to pop and I wonder is that an issue for solar?

 

[namesgolden]

Regular car audio fused distro blocks are cheap and typicaly use anl/mini-anl fuses

Examlle that I have not used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SCQJNM/

 

[ghostwriter66]

Regular car audio fused distro blocks are cheap and typicaly use anl/mini-anl fuses

Examlle that I have not used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SCQJNM/

good find

 

[John Frum]

Regular car audio fused distro blocks are cheap and typicaly use anl/mini-anl fuses

Examlle that I have not used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SCQJNM/

What is the aggregate amp rating for the block?

 

[Supervstech]

I've settled on 2 AWG to my 1200w inverter with 130A fuse. I'll secure the wires up so there is no strain on the termials. You see how neat my diagrams are the real build will be just as neat and perfect. The only question I have is these MRBF are rated 'Slow' to pop and I wonder is that an issue for solar?

How short are your cables? #2 is only rated for 95amps, with DC, and round trip length, you could be wasting some watts, likely over 10%... heat can pop the fuse when conductors are too small...
Not an issue if you never push the inverter hard for long.

 

[John Frum]

How short are your cables? #2 is only rated for 95amps, with DC, and round trip length, you could be wasting some watts, likely over 10%... heat can pop the fuse when conductors are too small...
Not an issue if you never push the inverter hard for long.

According to blue sea #2 awg is rated for 120 amps with 3% loss up to 15 feet.
What reference are you going by?

 

[kenkoh]

How short are your cables? #2 is only rated for 95amps, with DC, and round trip length, you could be wasting some watts, likely over 10%... heat can pop the fuse when conductors are too small...
Not an issue if you never push the inverter hard for long.

4 feet. This is the issue I've had with various charts posted by different experts all different.

 

[kenkoh]

According to blue sea #2 awg is rated for 120 amps with 3% loss up to 15 feet.
What reference are you going by?

Windy Nation cables say max amps 205, my inverter is 1200w I fuse at 125a. Maybe I'll go back to 1/0.

 

[namesgolden]

What is the aggregate amp rating for the block?

with two 0ga inputs and four 4ga outs I'm sure it'll handle a serious load, ofcourse it's all up to your ability to make proper connections.

the people using serious power do copper rods with ANL fuses between them

 

[Supervstech]

I use the NEC ampacity chart, and it isnt accurate on short DC runs, that's why I asked how short the cables were.
15' is easy to exceed with dc cables. A 7.5' positive and negative will exceed 15' with lugs in there...

 

[Supervstech]

According to blue sea #2 awg is rated for 120 amps with 3% loss up to 15 feet.
What reference are you going by?