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MPP LV6548 Ground/Neutral Safety?

If you use the cord sets, as I described. That's the cheapest option. You don't even need a transfer switch. Because you are manually switching with the cords.
 
timselectric said:
If you use the cord sets, as I described. That's the cheapest option. You don't even need a transfer switch. Because you are manually switching with the cords.
Click to expand...
Thats if I use the two growatts? The single MPP still won't work because the multiwire branch circuits?
 
MT off grid said:
Do you know how I could make this transfer switch work without making it no longer UL listed
Click to expand...
I already posted how to make this work. Whether adding a neutral busbar would make in non UL is another matter but I doubt it would.

You have to move the neutrals from the main panel.
 
MT off grid said:
Okay, what about using two growatts, does that put me back into the issue of the grounds

So still best to use two growatt's, does that cause a ground issue though since I'm running two of them
Click to expand...
Since this is a "temporary power source ". The inverter shouldn't have to be UL listed. (Double check this for your jurisdiction)
The cheapest option is probably one Growatt SPF-5000-ES and an auto transformer. (From Signature Solar)
This will work perfectly with your split bus panel.

Edit:
This is getting off topic for this thread.
 
timselectric said:
Since this is a "temporary power source ". The inverter shouldn't have to be UL listed. (Double check this for your jurisdiction)
The cheapest option is probably one Growatt SPF-5000-ES and an auto transformer. (From Signature Solar)
This will work perfectly with your split bus panel.

Edit:
This is getting off topic for this thread.
Click to expand...
The UL listing is not required because of temporary power source rules, heard to many issue with the 5000's, thank you again for your help, might just need to throw in the towel on this project
 
MT off grid said:
The UL listing is not required because of temporary power source rules, heard to many issue with the 5000's, thank you again for your help, might just need to throw in the towel on this project
Click to expand...
Ok well, that's entirely up to you.
I'm currently running on the 5000.
And as I said, it's perfectly suited for your situation.
But, I wouldn't recommend doing anything that you are not comfortable with.
 
timselectric said:
Ok well, that's entirely up to you.
I'm currently running on the 5000.
And as I said, it's perfectly suited for your situation.
But, I wouldn't recommend doing anything that you are not comfortable with.
Click to expand...
Okay, my issue is with the split panel and having two multiwire branch circuits to work with, two growatts would be nice since I would get two phase but I'm back into the parallel issue, the mpp would be nice but again I have the multiwire branch circuits, the 5000 is an option like you said but that one worries me because of all the stories I have read about it. The other option I have is to build a completely stand alone system with either the growatt or the mpp and wire it to a breaker panel and wire in some outlets and just run extension cords to appliances when needed but that kinda defeats the purpose of running part way off grid, I will see if I can get an electrician to come over and see what I can get figured out, I have asked so many questions that I am starting to repeat myself and feel like I am starting to become irritating, I really do appreciate all of your help, I know more about my house electrical then I ever did before
 
MT off grid said:
Okay, my issue is with the split panel and having two multiwire branch circuits to work with, two growatts would be nice since I would get two phase but I'm back into the parallel issue, the mpp would be nice but again I have the multiwire branch circuits, the 5000 is an option like you said but that one worries me because of all the stories I have read about it. The other option I have is to build a completely stand alone system with either the growatt or the mpp and wire it to a breaker panel and wire in some outlets and just run extension cords to appliances when needed but that kinda defeats the purpose of running part way off grid, I will see if I can get an electrician to come over and see what I can get figured out, I have asked so many questions that I am starting to repeat myself and feel like I am starting to become irritating, I really do appreciate all of your help, I know more about my house electrical then I ever did before
Click to expand...
FYI: now that I have an intimate knowledge of your existing service. I can walk your electrician through the installation of the 5000. All of the issues that you have heard, don't apply to your situation.
Just offering you the option.
 
timselectric said:
FYI: now that I have an intimate knowledge of your existing service. I can walk your electrician through the installation of the 5000. All of the issues that you have heard, don't apply to your situation.
Just offering you the option.
Click to expand...
Thank you
 
timselectric said:
Standard receptacles are for outputting power.
You plug into them, to get power.
Reverse service is the opposite.
You plug in to it to give power.
They are for inputting power.
Like from a generator.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much! This question was asked on another electrical forum, and the majority of the responders said that all it meant was that the one with "reverse service" was watertight. That didn't quite sit well with me. Well someone pointed out that both the one with reverse service and the one without reverse service were watertight, per the manufacture, but they all insisted essentially that one was more watertight than the other. At the risk of confirming my own bias, I think your explanation makes a lot more sense.
 
timselectric said:
FYI: now that I have an intimate knowledge of your existing service. I can walk your electrician through the installation of the 5000. All of the issues that you have heard, don't apply to your situation.
Just offering you the option.
Click to expand...
I called every electrician in my area and the only way they will help me is by doing a transfer switch for the entire house, kinda ran put of options, might just build a standalone system like a huge solar generator, I'm still confused on the N-G bond on inverters but will see of I can find a thread that explains it better, growatt and mpp have different answers which is confusing me even more
 
timselectric said:
Makes sense, because I haven't heard of any complaints.
Click to expand...
The confusing part is why MPP says the screw oe needed to be left in and growatt says its taken out
MPP response to ke asking if I should remove the screw like growatt does

No it won't void warranty, but... I think there's a misunderstanding here.

The way GFCI works exactly is that you will need to BOND N-G under inverter mode (you cannot leave it OPEN), such that it will convert what is normally a "float" output to a zero differential so that way your RCD doesn't trip. This is tested under UL and if you're saying this is a problem then clearly UL has a problem, otherwise how did they pass this?
 
Does anyone have a "clear" (non blurry) picture of where the bonding screw is located in the LV6548?
the only source I've found is a blurry pic of an email in a video.... I'm wiring my dual LV6548s as follows15AD2D61-8982-4CDA-BC6D-7691341D4C1F.jpeg
 
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