I mainly see temp trac SOC, is that AC current or charge current?View attachment 201295
Graph from this morning. Temperature didnt start to rise until the loads started, you can see where the first two ramp up through the current bar.
Battery ripple current becomes problem when it starts to heat up the batteries and that appears to be the situation OP has.AC ripple is normal and does not really have any impact on the battery cycle time as its is a faction of the voltage range of what is considered one cycle ( 100 to 0 SOC ) so there is no need to add parts
For added capacitors, you may not realize that your four Conext MPPT 100 have significant capacitor banks on the output already as they are design to work with lead-acid, which from a ripple perspective do less than Lifepo4 for ripple suppression
So spend that $$ and add batteries, the super capacitor will provided no improvements to your system.
Disclaimer: I was part of the team at Xantrex that designed the hardware you are using
Supercapacitor you are looking at has 6 milliohm internal impedance so it won't do much anything when parallel with a battery bank that has (guestimated) 2 milliohm internal impedance. You would need some choke between the battery and the supercapacitor bank.Hi there. I'm looking at an eaton 130 farad capacitor, rated for 62V part no XLM-62R1137A-R. The heating doesn't appear to be much, the highest reported temperature I've seen from the BMS is 34C which I don't believe is terrible, but not ideal. My goal is to keep battery temperature below 30C.
I believe this ripple, while not catastrophic, is detrimental to battery temperature and life.
Looking bit further you don't actually need any supercapacitors. Just find a scrap pile with 3 microwaves. Rip out the transformers, separate the core halves (need 2 minutes with angle grinder on the weld) and insert 10 turns(or as much as you can) of 4/0 cable in the transformer core. Insert 1 mm glasssfiber/cardboard shims between the core halves and clamp them together. Now you have three 100uH chokes. Combined in parallel they should handle way over 400A before saturating or overheating.Supercapacitor you are looking at has 6 milliohm internal impedance so it won't do much anything when parallel with a battery bank that has (guestimated) 2 milliohm internal impedance. You would need some choke between the battery and the supercapacitor bank.
Which has ~5 mohm resistance.you need 30 meters of 4/0 cable
If the ballasts are something like over 8lbs each they should have enough large cores. You can use https://www.calculators.live/gapped-core-inductance to calculate the inductance and saturation amps. Most silicon steel cores should handle at least 15 000 gauss before saturating so aim for under 100 gauss/A for a 150A choke.Incredible MattFin. Might be going dump diving this summer I suppose. I have many large ballasts for outdoor lights here, I wonder if those cores would work. Theyre not the oil filled type so the transformer is easy to get at. Thank you for your thoughts on this.
Need only 10 meters of cable for the air-core inductor mentioned but assumed that it needs to be 3x 4/0 parallel, making it 30 meters total price-wise. Thus only ~0.5mOhm resistance.Which has ~5 mohm resistance.
Battery ripple current becomes problem when it starts to heat up the batteries and that appears to be the situation OP ...
When I first started up my system, I had not changed the defaults for the charge current. I have only two inverters at 140 amps each, and they pushed 280 amps into the batteries when I started a charging cycle. The ensuing racket was quite alarming and I was pretty sure that my system was about to blow up in a spectacular explosion.I switch my fluke true RMS meter to AC amps, and it will read 270-300 amps AC at exactly 120hz.
Considering you are storing enough energy in there to power a small rail gun, you really need to make sure there is no chance you will ever short out your DC cables. I am careful around my DC cables anyway, but shorting these will be like a bomb going off. The rectangular metal boxes under my batteries contain 600 amp bus bars. Just underneath the busbar in the wire gutter, I have a pair of class T fuses. One for each 4/0 positive cable.I'd like to find a better way to terminate cables at the capacitor.
Yes. I was originally going to bolt the cap to the 3/4 plywood behind it vertically with the terminals mounted upwards but it seemed to be a hazard in case anything fell down to the cap terminals. Instead I decided this small shelf would be the best way of mounting.Considering you are storing enough energy in there to power a small rail gun, you really need to make sure there is no chance you will ever short out your DC cables. I am careful around my DC cables anyway, but shorting these will be like a bomb going off. The rectangular metal boxes under my batteries contain 600 amp bus bars. Just underneath the busbar in the wire gutter, I have a pair of class T fuses. One for each 4/0 positive cable.