need a little help

[randerson]

This is my first real solar system setup and i am not sure if i got everything i need and how to hook it all up. If you could please read and see if i am missing anything i would greatly appreciate it.???

On the way i have the following items ordered. They all should arrive in the next few weeks via mail and freight

Battery-
I freight shipped a 48 v power wall from big battery. cost was $1400 Capacity: 3.8kWh

Inverter-
I went to diysolars ebay link and got a pip. 5000w 48vdc 120v/208V/240V Split phase Solar inverter 80A Dual MPPT charger. cost was $1445 with shipping

Solar Panels-
I contacted the used panel link from diysolar and got 8 panels pallet shipped to my town that are 250 watts each. Total solar 2000 watts cost with shipping $503

battery to inverter connections-
I ordered a Anderson SB50 Connectors - SB50 w/ Open leads. Cost was $8

I ordered a selterm marine graded UL listed tinned copper eyelet 8awg to 4/0 awg with 5/16 ring. Cost was $5

I ordered a temco hammer lug crimper tool to install the eyelet. Cost was $20

Solar panel install and wiring-
I ordered windy nation 8 awg guage 80ft solar pannel extention cable wire solar connectors. Cost $107

I ordered renogy 8 sets (4 count each) solar panel mounting Z brackets $70

Total cost $3558


As i am new to this i have a few questions............

are the mounts going to work for these panels?

My biggest fear is i am missing something that i need to order causing my system sits 6 weeks while i wait for one piece. 3.5k is a lot for me. If something needs returned i do not want to get the run around for not returning it as soon as i get it.

I hear from the reviews some of the used panels may not have connector ends? Can i just solder them to the extension cable if no ends are present? Then shrink wrap them

i do not know how to hook up the solar to get the correct volts range into the inverter. Do i wire 4 in parallel and then attach it to the other 4 in parallel? they seem to have a higher voltage than off the shelf panels. keep in mind it is going to a pip lv-5048. Specs for the panel are
Specifications:

• Rated Power: 250W
• Open circuit voltage (VOC): 37.6 V
• Max power voltage (VMP): 30.3 V
• Short circuit current (ISC): 8.85 A
• Max power current: 8.27 A
• Power Tolerance 0/+3%
• Maximum system voltage: 600V (UL)
• Fuse Rating: 15 A
• IP65 Junction Box w/ standard solar connectors
• Frame: Anodized aluminum alloy
• Weight: 41 lbs
• Dimensions: 1650 × 992 × 35mm (64.95 × 39.05 × 1.37 inches)

Do i need anything else? I would like to get it ordered asap if so. Thanks for taking the time to read. The system is going to run most of my Mobile home and the panels are getting mounted to my overhang room that is 30x12.

pics to come as i get stuff.

 

[Dzl]

i do not know how to hook up the solar to get the correct volts range into the inverter. Do i wire 4 in parallel and then attach it to the other 4 in parallel? they seem to have a higher voltage than off the shelf panels. keep in mind it is going to a pip lv-5048. Specs for the panel are

Panel Specifications:

• Rated Power: 250W
• Open circuit voltage (VOC): 37.6 V
• Short circuit current (ISC): 8.85 A

First off, what are the specs for your charge controller/all-in-one? Max solar input current and voltage should be listed

 

[randerson]

looks like 60-110?

 

[Ampster]

looks like 60-110?

Maximum 145 volts open circuit. Four would be pushing it (4 x 37.6 = 150.4 volts)
Three panels would be safer.

 

[Dzl]

Controller specs: 4kW, 145V, 80A x 2

I think the best arrangement would probably be 2S2P x2, or possibly 3S2P for one string and 2S on the second string (not sure if that works though, I don't fully understand how 2 solar inputs works)

 

[randerson]

Maximum 145 volts open circuit. Four would be pushing it (4 x 37.6 = 150.4 volts)
Three panels would be safer.

Oh i see... it is open circuit volts i am looking for. thanks for the reply.

so since i own 8 i would put 3 in parallel, 3 in parallel, and then 2 in parallel. Then connect all 3 groups together?

37.6 per panel x 3 is 112.18 open circuit volts
this would be times 2

and then 37.6 x 2 is 75.2

so i am guessing 112.8 plus 112.8 plus 75.2 is 300.8

then 300.8 divided by 3 is 100.26

giving me a input of 100 volts on a system rated for 145 max?

 

[Dzl]

Maximum 145 volts open circuit. Four would be pushing it (4 x 37.6 = 150.4 volts)
Three panels would be safer.

unfortunately 3 won't work with the number of panels (8)

 

[Dzl]

Oh i see... it is open circuit volts i am looking for. thanks for the reply.

so since i own 8 i would put 3 in parallel, 3 in parallel, and then 2 in parallel. Then connect all 3 groups together?

I think Parallel + Parallel in Parallel = Parallel

See here for a refresher on series and parallel wiring

And remember with series, multiply voltage by the number of panels in series, with parallel multiple current by the number of panels in parallel.

What you probably want to do is wire strings of 2 in series, then connect the 2 strings in parallel.

So for '2S2P' you would have 37.6V x 2 and 8.85 x 2 or 75V and 17.7A per solar input.

Like this (ignore the numbers below they are from another example):

Do this twice attach each 2S2P group to the two solar inputs

edit: here is a good article to read

 

[Ampster]

There are two inputs so one 2S2P as @Dzl suggested into each input.

 

[randerson]

I think Parallel + Parallel in Parallel = Parallel

See here for a refresher on series and parallel wiring

And remember with series, multiply voltage by the number of panels in series, with parallel multiple current by the number of panels in parallel.

So for '2S2P' you would have 37.6V x 2 and 8.85 x 2 or 75V and 17.7A per solar input.

What you probably want to do is wire strings of 2 in series, then connect the 2 strings in parallel.

Like this (ignore the numbers they are from another example):
View attachment 14935
Do this twice attach each 2S2P group to the two solar inputs

edit: here is a good article to read

There are two inputs so one 2S2P as @Dzl suggested into each input.

ah you mean like this(forgive the crappy paint drawing). using both sets of solar input ports? will it run like normal. I thought the unit would pick the more powerful input if i set it up this way. thus turning my 2000 watt array into a 1000 watt max array if i set it up this way.... sorry i am new. lots of questions. this is why i chose a all in one pip and an all in on battery to limit my screw ups

 

[MisterSandals]

Or one more panel (if your order has not shipped yet), would allow you to make 3 strings of 3 panels in series which would be tidy.

 

[Dzl]

ah you mean like this(forgive the crappy paint drawing). using both sets of solar input ports? will it run like normal. I thought the unit would pick the more powerful input if i set it up this way. thus turning my 2000 watt array into a 1000 watt max array if i set it up this way.... sorry i am new. lots of questions. this is why i chose a all in one pip and an all in on battery to limit my screw ups

Well, as I think I mentioned earlier, I don't really know much of anything about your specific charger, and don't know a lot about chargers with dual inputs. But I sorta doubt that it would only use one input, if it worked like that, what would be the point of two inputs?

I think you should be fine using both inputs, but your manual will tell you conclusively, i suggest you take a look at your manual and see what it says, post a link here if you want I'm sure some of us would be willing to take a peak at it.

 

[Dzl]

And yes, your diagram is what I was imagining.

But I want to underscore that you should definitely consult the manual and see what guidance it gives

 

[randerson]

Well, as I think I mentioned earlier, I don't really know much of anything about your specific charger, and don't know a lot about chargers with dual inputs. But I sorta doubt that it would only use one input, if it worked like that, what would be the point of two inputs?

I think you should be fine using both inputs, but your manual will tell you conclusively, i suggest you take a look at your manual and see what it says, post a link here if you want I'm sure some of us would be willing to take a peak at it.

thanks for your help. I should download the manual now and look. from what i heard the reason for 2 inputs is so you can put up 2 different arrays facing different directions. one for early light and a late afternoon position to make the most of the sun through the day. i will find out if both work in conjunction or independently. If it is in conjunction i am golden. It will work great just like that. I will half to order another $107 80ft cable set to run it that way

 

[randerson]

I am reading thru the 48 page manual now

http://www.mppsolar.com/manual/SPLIT%20PHASE%20LV/LV5048%20split%20phase%20manual-20191024.pdf

 

[Ampster]

....It will work great just like that. I will half to order another $107 80ft cable set to run it that way

If your existing wire is big enough you could put them on one input. That would be 34 Amps and the max is 80 Amps. I didn't realize it was a long distance, and the wire cost would be a factor influencing that.
I did not check the Amps calculation so you should check that so you know your wire can handle it.

 

[randerson]

If your existing wire is big enough you could put them on one input. That would be 34 Amps and the max is 80 Amps. I didn't realize it was a long distance, and the wire cost would be a factor influencing that.
I did not check the Amps calculation so you should check that so you know your wire can handle it.

They are rated for 55A. here are the specs

• One pair ( 1 piece black + 1 piece red ) of UL Listed solar cable. Both solar cables are terminated with Solar Connectors.
• SEE IMAGE #2 in the photo gallery for solar cable specifications
• Photovoltaic module interconnection cable for use with or without a raceway in accordance with the NEC Wiring Systems
• UL Listed solar cable is designed for outdoor use and is moisture, UV and corrosion resistant. Solar cable is manufactured in the USA.
• The solar cable offered in this listing is 8 AWG which is UL rated for 55A. Using large diameter cable will minimize power line loss in your solar panel system.

 

[randerson]

Also I ordered no in line fuses. Do i need one between the solar panels and charger? Do i need one in between the batteries and charger? Keep in mind the batteries are Li-ion

 

[randerson]

It says nothing in the pdf manual about the PV-1 and PV-2 inputs. but it looks like it will combine them.

 

[randerson]

I contacted the company to make sure