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Problems Setting up a Cerbo GX on a Raspberry Pi with MacBook Pro laptop

Here is an update.

Recall that my goal was, while driving my truck, to be able to access VRM and Remote Console on my iPhone, with my Victron products located inside my converted cargo trailer.

As many of you predicted, the Cerbo GX Pi was, in fact, able successfully to connect wirelessly to the MiFi hotspot, and, with much coaching, utilizing the WiFi, I was able to connect to VRM and Remote Console, using both my iPhone and laptop; subject to the following limitations:

1. The MiFi had to have a minimum cell signal strength of 4 bars.

2. The MiFi and Pi could not be separated from each other by an obstruction (e.g., like the walls of my trailer and/or my truck). Consequently, in my case, the Pi and MiFi both had to be be positioned inside the trailer. Not a problem for me.

3. The MiFi had to be positioned in a roof vent, in the ceiling of the trailer and the phone had to be almost in direct line of sight of the MiFi. Consequently, the only way I was able to view data on my phone while driving was to hold the phone outside the driver’s window, with one hand, while driving. Not good. Even then, the connection would drop if the cell signal weakened.

So, so far, I am not able to use the Cerbo GX Pi for my intended purposes.

As an aside, in the past, I have routinely used the MiFi hotspot for an internet connection with my phone and the laptop, while all three devices located inside the trailer, as long as I had at least one bar. To improve matters, I have a Weboost Drive cell phone booster that will usually give me 1 or 2 more bars. However, the Weboost did not seem to help in my limited Pi testing. The limiting factor seems to be that I had to maintain line of sight between the MiFi and the iPhone

Perhaps if I fool around a bit more I will be able to achieve a practical solution.

If I thought it would work, I am not adverse to running wire(s) from the cab of my truck back to the inside of the trailer. However, I have not yet adequately researched that possibility.

In the meantime, you guys are great!!! Thank you!!
 
Well as mentioned the router that runs on 12v would solve all of that since its signal will be stronger. If you don't need much bandwidth (which the solar stuff doesn't need much bandwidth) you can go 900 mhz range extender and keep the mifi in the cab of the truck.

With 900 mhz you get 1 mile minimum range with up to 5 miles possible. With a real 900mhz radio max range is over 40 miles easy. I have one 900mhz setup doing 20 miles to supply a 911 building with internet that has been running for about 16 years now.

900mhz goes thru about anything within reason. It ignores tree, walls, etc. Plate steel bugs it some but thats about all Ive run into in the real world that causes issues. Aluminum doesn't seem to effect it at all.

You can get the simple 900mhz extenders off amazon. The powerful ones I mentioned are far more expensive but not outrageous.
 
Here is an update.

Recall that my goal was, while driving my truck, to be able to access VRM and Remote Console on my iPhone, with my Victron products located inside my converted cargo trailer.

As many of you predicted, the Cerbo GX Pi was, in fact, able successfully to connect wirelessly to the MiFi hotspot, and, with much coaching, utilizing the WiFi, I was able to connect to VRM and Remote Console, using both my iPhone and laptop; subject to the following limitations:

1. The MiFi had to have a minimum cell signal strength of 4 bars.

2. The MiFi and Pi could not be separated from each other by an obstruction (e.g., like the walls of my trailer and/or my truck). Consequently, in my case, the Pi and MiFi both had to be be positioned inside the trailer. Not a problem for me.

3. The MiFi had to be positioned in a roof vent, in the ceiling of the trailer and the phone had to be almost in direct line of sight of the MiFi. Consequently, the only way I was able to view data on my phone while driving was to hold the phone outside the driver’s window, with one hand, while driving. Not good. Even then, the connection would drop if the cell signal weakened.

So, so far, I am not able to use the Cerbo GX Pi for my intended purposes.

As an aside, in the past, I have routinely used the MiFi hotspot for an internet connection with my phone and the laptop, while all three devices located inside the trailer, as long as I had at least one bar. To improve matters, I have a Weboost Drive cell phone booster that will usually give me 1 or 2 more bars. However, the Weboost did not seem to help in my limited Pi testing. The limiting factor seems to be that I had to maintain line of sight between the MiFi and the iPhone

Perhaps if I fool around a bit more I will be able to achieve a practical solution.

If I thought it would work, I am not adverse to running wire(s) from the cab of my truck back to the inside of the trailer. However, I have not yet adequately researched that possibility.

In the meantime, you guys are great!!! Thank you!!


You could maybe try a VE.Direct bluetooth extender / adapter cable (plugged into the battery monitor / shunt), and mount the bluetooth radio module on the driver's front corner of the trailer (outside), then just use Victron Connect from the phone in the truck.


My BMV-712 gets quite a bit of range even using the built-in bluetooth, but I've heard of people using the bluetooth cable to to extend it further.


Another idea I just had, a BMV-712, you could just put the LCD display in the truck, and add a data cable (next to the trailer wires connection) to plug in the BMV display in the truck to the shunt in the trailer.

In my own case, all I really care about knowing is the shunt info, I never even look at my charge controllers, don't really care what they're doing. The only reason I use VRM also, is so I can know SoC when I'm in town for a couple days, whether my batteries are not going dead for any reason, in case I would need to expedite my return to check on things. Other than that, I don't really care about having internet access on my RV solar.


The other thing I thought of as well, is perhaps you could look into a WiFi router which has external antennas (removable), and get some magnetic antennas (with pigtail wire) to install on the roof of the trailer. Even many of the cell adapters also have a jack on them for plugging in external cell antennas to put on roof.
 
router that runs on 12v
Thanks Crowz,

Would the router mount inside the trailer? Below, I think maybe Samsonite is talking about an exterior mount.
I googled 900mhz extenders and see they range from $60 to $300.

Could you please post a link to something you have in mind that might work?
 
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VE.Direct bluetooth extender
Thanks Samsonite,

I will look into that.

a BMV-712, you could just put the LCD display in the truck
Good idea. I already have an extra monitor that I could wire. The only downside compared to the VRM is that I could not see battery temperature which is important to me.
all I really care about knowing is the shunt info
Me too, except I would also like to see battery temperature. Regarding shunt info, I am especially interested in how many Ah are being pulled out of my alternator via my Orion Tr Smart.
WiFi router which has external antennas (removable), and get some magnetic antennas (with pigtail wire) to install on the roof of the trailer

Is that something like Crowz is thinking about?



.
 
Thanks Crowz,

Would the router mount inside the trailer? Below, I think maybe Samsonite is talking about an exterior mount.
I googled 900mhz extenders and see they range from $60 to $300.

Could you please post a link to something you have in mind that might work?
Any wifi router will work that has external antennas. So if you want to do it as cheap as possible this is really all you need. The 900mhz stuff is long range but if your willing to drill one hole somewhere even on the side of the trailer you can really get by super cheap.

This is the first one that popped up on amazon. I'm going to do this first go at it to do it cheap as possible.


$14.99

--------

Next we need external antennas.


$14.99

or


$11.99

or


$49.95

--------

You need one for the mifi and one for the wifi router.

That's it.

With this setup the mifi will have access to the outside to get internet from your cell provider.

The router has access to outside to allow you to get to it from the cab of the truck or you can set the wifi router to connect to your home wifi if you want.

The mifi and the router can either connect via ethernet if the mifi has that or you can have the router logon the mifi.

So for around $30 to $45 you can fix it all. Depending on if you do one or two antennas.

The other equipment I mentioned (900mhz) is if you don't want to do outside antennas but the outside antenna is the smartest future proof method.
 
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Oh on the magnet antennas I don't recommend them for campers. Your always going to have a tree limb find the roof of your camper its just murphy's law in action. Magnetic antennas just don't stay put or upright for long. Mounting permanent is the way to go.
 
on the magnet antennas
Not an issue because I have an aluminum trailer. :)

the outside antenna is the smartest future proof method.
I do not particularly mind making a hole in the trailer if that is what is required.

Crowz,

It sounds like you have come up with a viable solution.

The problem is, that I am ignorant about routers and the like. For example, I recently moved into the house where I am now living. The house already had a router and wall TV installed when I moved in. I have not lived in a house with TV for decades, let alone a router. The other day, when you guys asked me to plug in an ethernet cable into the router, I was clueless about what to do. That is the first time I have ever even touched a router.

So, I will start researching and learning about the products you have linked to.

I know i keep saying this, but I am overwhelmed by the time and effort you guys have spent helping me.

Thank you!
 
Not an issue because I have an aluminum trailer. :)


I do not particularly mind making a hole in the trailer if that is what is required.

Crowz,

It sounds like you have come up with a viable solution.

The problem is, that I am ignorant about routers and the like. For example, I recently moved into the house where I am now living. The house already had a router and wall TV installed when I moved in. I have not lived in a house with TV for decades, let alone a router. The other day, when you guys asked me to plug in an ethernet cable into the router, I was clueless about what to do. That is the first time I have ever even touched a router.

So, I will start researching and learning about the products you have linked to.

I know i keep saying this, but I am overwhelmed by the time and effort you guys have spent helping me.

Thank you!
It's one of the reason I hang out on here as much as I do. Half of us go back and forth on stuff and it probably seems like we are arguing to most but I have a feeling most will agree its how we learn :)

I for one am glad to help if I can. The wifi and net stuff is what I do for a living. Well the wifi stuff is what I used to do for a living as I owned an isp company. Back when I had to roll out wifi for the rural areas there wasn't all of the shake and bake equipment have today. Back then it was all winging it.

I imagine with the resources available here all of us will get you thru the setup pretty easily.
 
Good idea. I already have an extra monitor that I could wire. The only downside compared to the VRM is that I could not see battery temperature which is important to me.

You CAN see battery temperature on the BMV-712. Just have to connect to the BMV-712 in Victron Connect, go to Settings > Display > Display Temperature, toggle it to 'On', then it shows up in the LCD display..

You can also see temperature in Victron Connect, but if you turn it on also in the Display, then you can just hit the up or down buttons on the BMV display until you see temperature.


Me too, except I would also like to see battery temperature. Regarding shunt info, I am especially interested in how many Ah are being pulled out of my alternator via my Orion Tr Smart.

See above, temp display works already hehe!
 
With the RPi connected to the router either via ethernet cable or wifi
And your phone connected to the same wifi

Can you see the Cerbo in the local tab?
Yes.
In the configuration you describe, using the router in my house, not only can I see the Cerbo Pi in the Victron Connect local tab, the Cerbo Pi is fully functional. By fully functional, I mean that using Victron Connect, I can connect to both VRM and Remote Control, see all the data, and change all settings.

Likewise, when I do not connect to the router, but rather connect using the MiFi hotspot in lieu of the router, I achieve full functionality, so long as the Pi, the phone and the MiFi hot spot are next to each other so that the MiFi signal is not blocked by an obstruction. For example, I achieve full functionality when the Pi, the phone and the MiFi hotspot are all next each other inside the trailer.

The only problem is when the MiFi hotspot signal is blocked by the trailer walls and/or truck body.
 
You CAN see battery temperature on the BMV-712
Thanks Samsonite,

When I earlier said that “I already have an extra monitor”, I failed to make clear that the monitor is a Trimetric monitor, not a BMV-712.
I do not own a BMV-712.

I did not realize that the BMV-712 can read temperatures. Victron is awesome!

However, if use of a BMV-712 turns out to be the only viable solution, I would consider paying the approximate $200, cost to buy one.

In the meantime, I want to research and gain an understanding of the router method suggested by Crowz.
 
The other equipment I mentioned (900mhz) is if you don't want to do outside antennas
Crowz,

As far as i can tell, you mentioned, but did not link to, any of the 900mhz extender products. I googled 900mhz extenders and found many products. However, they seemed too cheap and easy to install (e.g. some as low as $75).

My thinking is that, if I bought the 900mhz product, and experimented with it without cutting holes in the trailer, but did not like it, that I could return it and revert to Plan B (cutting holes and using router external antennas).

Would I also need to purchase the router in addition to the 900mhz extender?

Could you please link to a 900mhz extender products that might do the job?

Thank you!
 
Crowz,

As far as i can tell, you mentioned, but did not link to, any of the 900mhz extender products. I googled 900mhz extenders and found many products. However, they seemed too cheap and easy to install (e.g. some as low as $75).

My thinking is that, if I bought the 900mhz product, and experimented with it without cutting holes in the trailer, but did not like it, that I could return it and revert to Plan B (cutting holes and using router external antennas).

Would I also need to purchase the router in addition to the 900mhz extender?

Could you please link to a 900mhz extender products that might do the job?

Thank you!
The 900mhz from amazon is low speed (which wouldn't hurt that much for what your using it for) and strictly an extender device. Most of them were direct plug in the wall from what I saw which would work great as long as you have AC to run them off of which you won't have in the cab of the truck which is why I didn't link those.

The 900mhz stuff I used is based on mikrotik equipment. The problem I ran into trying to find a quick link on it is the company has changed a good bit over the years from what I bought stuff from them to do the isp biz. I wasn't able to find the routerboards as they call them that had the same radio slots as I am used to. Far from plug and play because of this. Can still be done but harder now since I've got to figure out what to tell you to get. I'll keep looking and seeing if I can figure out what is best to use of what they make now. They have diversified a BUNCH.
 
The 2.4 stuff you can stick the antennas out the door to test and see how well it works before cutting the holes :)
 
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