I ordered 6 AWG. Now I just need the ground. Should the ground be coated and is 10 AWG ok for the ground?
Single-Axis East-West Sun Tracking Ground Mount Design
- Thread starter Fearless
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400bird
Solar Wizard
Typical, ground should be solid, bare #6
10 awg is fine for ground in conduit, where exposed 6 awg or large is needed
Will this work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/325659247438
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
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- Mar 28, 2020
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That should be fine if you want more power in the summer. Unless so steep the panels never face directly towards sun.
A single axis tracker could have panels sloped, but then need space to avoid shading. Parallel to axis is easiest and simplest.
For fixed arrays and net metering, we usually give PV array tilt angle matching our latitude. That's why I thought South slope would be ideal. Net metering is dead. Long Live Net Metering!
Yeah that cable Is ok.
Since you have 6 AWG wire already, you could combine 2 of your strings with a junction box at the array, and have single run for the 2 strings for MPPT 1 on the 18kpv. This would only require 6 wires + ground running from the arrays to the inverter. Only disadvantage is you will need a higher amperage rated disconnect for this one string. With 2 strings in parallel you need a discconect rated for at least 44amps, like the 60amp one: https://www.solar-electric.com/sqd600vodcar.html
Since you have 6 AWG wire already, you could combine 2 of your strings with a junction box at the array, and have single run for the 2 strings for MPPT 1 on the 18kpv. This would only require 6 wires + ground running from the arrays to the inverter. Only disadvantage is you will need a higher amperage rated disconnect for this one string. With 2 strings in parallel you need a discconect rated for at least 44amps, like the 60amp one: https://www.solar-electric.com/sqd600vodcar.html
I considered tilting using the pipes but didn't want to have to raise the whole array higher than it already was.
I see the 18kpv only has 3 MPPTs. Does that mean I have to combine 2 strings anyway?
2 strings will be combined somewhere, this can be at the inverter using the 2 inputs for MPPT1, or somewhere before the wires get to the inverter. Really depends on what works best for your install.
Cool. I'm lucky with the new all-in-ones the learning curve is not as steep as before.
With my setup do I need optimizers?
The need for optimizers is going to depend if you have partial shading issues. Making sure you can get full sun on the panels most of the day is going to be best thing you can do for production.
Oh ok, then I shouldn't need those.
Very logical.
400bird
Solar Wizard
Wow, that's a unique score! Hexagon pipe sounds expensive, someone must have screwed up an order of you scored it cheap.
What's the wall thickness?
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12 gauge. They were even the perfect length of 11' 8". Only $30 each.
400bird
Solar Wizard
That is a good deal!
400bird
Solar Wizard
Cool, what did you end up getting for the slew drives?
Dave911
Solar Addict
Those sound like good columns to support a porch, if they are used in compression.
But if you put a bending moment on them they will tend to buckle and bend over. Max moment will be just at the column/concrete junction. 12 gauge is very light for such a large section.
If you fill them with concrete that will help prevent buckling. Better yet, get some 5+" square steel tube. My guess would be at least 3/16" wall. Or get some 5+ in Schedule 40 or Schedule 80 pipe. Make sure you put it in concrete and go down 3 1/2 ft or more. Don't overlook scrap steel. I understand that used drill stem pipe is available in large quantities in Texas as scrap. I know its used a lot for fences but they must have larger sizes that are used for deep wells. If you do some calculations on the max force on your panels if you get hit with an 80+ mph wind with your panels up, you will be shocked.
I got diverted onto other projects and was a bit lazy. Once I got going, this solar tracking got all my attention. I ended up having to re-engineer many times along the way. First, there was no way to use ubolts to attach the frame pieces. They just slipped. I tried different ubolts and got the same results. I had to weld c-channel onto the pivot pipe and use 3/8" bolts through the c-channel. Then I realized the 2" thin-walled pivot pipe twisted way too much. I tried welding c-channel along the pipe. That helped, but wasn't enough. I switched to 2 3/8" drill pipe, which meant I had to swap out the pillow block bearings and weld a foot-long 2" pipe into the slew drive ends. I inserted a schedule 80 pipe into the 2" pipe. After installing 1/2 of the panels I got another idea to strengthen the frame pieces. I inserted 3' long 2" square 3/16"thick square tubing into the middle of frame pieces and drilled the 2 bolt holes through the square tubing. All those panels I installed by myself multiple times. The irony about coming back here to post is looking at the last post from Dave911. This week, I was thinking I should have added concrete to the posts, one of the many times I removed pillow block bearings. Now I would need to pump concrete somehow.
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Dave911
Solar Addict
If you can get to the top of them, several partial 5 gallon buckets would work.
They have concrete pumper trucks, but they are expensive. But it might be worth a phone call to find out how much. Perhaps there are smaller pumper solutions as well. Rental Yards may know.
AI suggested I fill them with sand.
wheelman55
Solar Enthusiast
Just saw your thread. For your concrete pour, fashion a funnel to fit the top of your hex posts, get some friends and fill the posts with concrete.
I discovered the 4000 psi “just add water” concrete after mixing way to much by hand. https://www.quikrete.com/productlines/concretemix.asp
As an aside. We’ve been using a store bought single axis tracker for almost 10 years now. It works great for us.
We used 5 schedule 40 steel pipes. The center pipe being 5 inch ID and the other 4 being 4 inch ID. We used 10 foot long pipes stuck in 3 foot deep holes. The holes are 24 inches by 24 inches. Filled the holes with hard rock and then with concrete. No concrete inside the pipes.
The actuator arm is mounted to the center pipe. The rotating arm is 4 inch aluminum square tube.
We’ve got 14 370 watt panels attached.
We’re in a windy area, and have had 80 mph gusts. No issues so far
We get good production from just after sunrise to just before sunset.
Keep in mind that we put our system in place when solar was more expensive.
I discovered the 4000 psi “just add water” concrete after mixing way to much by hand. https://www.quikrete.com/productlines/concretemix.asp
As an aside. We’ve been using a store bought single axis tracker for almost 10 years now. It works great for us.
We used 5 schedule 40 steel pipes. The center pipe being 5 inch ID and the other 4 being 4 inch ID. We used 10 foot long pipes stuck in 3 foot deep holes. The holes are 24 inches by 24 inches. Filled the holes with hard rock and then with concrete. No concrete inside the pipes.
The actuator arm is mounted to the center pipe. The rotating arm is 4 inch aluminum square tube.
We’ve got 14 370 watt panels attached.
We’re in a windy area, and have had 80 mph gusts. No issues so far
We get good production from just after sunrise to just before sunset.
Keep in mind that we put our system in place when solar was more expensive.
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