I have done some tig welding before and recently got the dynasty 200dx, I was wondering if anyod could take a picture of there tig setup how much tungsten stickout and the positioning of their hands. I just want to make sure that I am practicing that right thing. Also does anyone have any tips for fillet welds becasue I am constantly burning holes in thin guage steel fillet welds. Secondly I am have some difficulty welding aluminum because the puddle size gets out of control on me. THe reason he puddle gets so big is because I can't dip the filler metal in the puddle when the puddle is small because I usually end up hitting the tungsten. So to allow me to dip the filler metal into the puddle easier i make the puddle bigger which ends up making a huge mess and the weld doesn't look right.
Any tips or help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
I have a 200DX as well and run it off my Kubota 4500W generator on occasion (which only gets the DX up to about 100 amps .... but it works).
Using a gas lens (nozzle with wire mesh diffuser) really helps provide a smoother gas flow which allows more stickout and thus more space for dipping.
Do you have an auto darkening helmet with adjustable density - that really helps in seeing the puddle properly.
Have you tried the pulse welding mode? It helps avoid burn through. There are a couple of benefits to using pulse on thin gauges - If you set to a slow pulse rate like 1 per second, it helps you set a rhythm so you can synchronize your dipping and moving to avoid problems with hitting the tungsten (i.e. a pulsing out a big peak blast of power to create a puddle which lasts long enough to get your filler in, but a pulse short enough to avoid burn through).
Another benefit of pulsing, especially at higher pulse rates, with aluminum, is that it allows enough energy in at the peak of the cycle to burn through oxides and stir up the puddle dynamically which helps wetting. Cleanliness of stock and rod is a big help welding aluminum as the puddle forms much faster and more uniformly (oxide melts at much higher temperature) on clean aluminum.
The trick with aluminum welding is to crank up the power, hit it hard and fast and travel relatively quickly since aluminum conducts heat so well.
Sometimes a rhythm that includes backtracking forward and back a bit to expose the puddle for dipping helps too.
By the way, Miller makes a really handy cardboard TIG welding slide rule calculator that gives you recommended tungsten, current settings, gas flow etc. for a variety of materials and weld configurations (lap, fillet etc.). I usually set my max current about 20% higher than it recommends and dial back the hand held control on my torch to 80% once the puddle has stabilized. That usually works and helps avoid burn throughs.
A bit of a beginner trick, but if you can lay the rod down and just advance over the rod and fillet that can work in some cases too. The rod doesn't always have to get right into the puddle. If you are overrunning it and focusing the arc forward, in some cases it melts continuously at just the right rate even if just pushed in at the leading or trailing edge of the arc.
Good luck and happy metal melting!