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very high heatsink temperature on Victron 100/30 MPPT

fat_old_sun

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In the last 3 months we have encountered two RV's with Victron Smartsolar 100/30 MPPT's with very high (65+ C) heatsink temperature. In both cases, the controllers are connected to four 110W panels in series and were delivering 28-30 Amps to the bank. IR camera showed the entire heatsink glowing red on both units. Swapped one of the Victrons for an 100/30 Epever. The Epever is running a lot cooler. Reinstalled the Victron & its heatsink is glowing again.

Anyone else with similar experiences?

Edit: turns out the Epever isn't much better. We discovered that the small fan we had used to cool the Victron was still running when we swapped the Epever. Reran the test & discovered the EPever also heats up, but not as much as the Victron. EP's heatsink is almost 2X Victron's. That would account for the differences we see.
 
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I'm wondering why the Epever running a lot cooler? The Victron is probably dissipating 30-40 Watts, 10-12% of the power delivered to the batteries.
 
My Victron MPPT (30A) also gets really hot, as do my Victron Orions (30A each, DC - DC chargers). To help dissipate the heat, I have all three vertically mounted to an aluminum plate spaced off the back wall of my power box. Two switchable fans help keep them cooler. The Victron Community website is full of folks complaining about the excess heat generated by these chargers.
 
Yep. My 250/100 gets pretty warm even at 50A. Even a small amount of inefficiency generates a LOT of heat. Important they're properly mounted on a vertical surface.
If one places any rear heat sink device ( I have 7 victrons things hanging on the wall) with 3/4 to one inch stand offs they run much cooler even at high load…I never mount any of it flush with the wall anymore …..Air circulates much more with that gap… Take lazar measurements and calculate the difference of output…..it’s real ..
Victron stuff seems to run warm … I tested with different type fans aimed at the heat sinks this summer and lowered the temp of everything. Everything produced a lot more power when kept cooler …especially the Multi+ ….
im guessing it’s much cooler in the Netherlands than Daytona Beach or Houston …
they probably dont have as many issues up there with heat..
Just my findings…
J.
 
Victron stuff seems to run warm … I tested with different type fans aimed at the heat sinks this summer and lowered the temp of everything. Everything produced a lot more power when kept cooler …especially the Multi+ ….
im guessing it’s much cooler in the Netherlands than Daytona Beach or Houston …
they probably dont have as many issues up there with heat..
Just my findings…
J.
They definitely derate when temps bump up, per their datasheet. Also for mobile applications I'm sure there's some toasty installs.

Screenshot_20231123_164932_Samsung Notes.jpg
 
In the last 3 months we have encountered two RV's with Victron Smartsolar 100/30 MPPT's with very high (65+ C) heatsink temperature. In both cases, the controllers are connected to four 110W panels in series and were delivering 28-30 Amps to the bank. IR camera showed the entire heatsink glowing red on both units. Swapped one of the Victrons for an 100/30 Epever. The Epever is running a lot cooler. Reinstalled the Victron & its heatsink is glowing again.

Anyone else with similar experiences?
Guessing your IR camera has auto AGC? Does it have radiometry? Will it tell you what the actual temperature is and if so, what is it?
FWIW, my IR camera has auto AGC also and I hate it as it keeps changing the scale as other things come into scene. Sometimes you just want it under manual control.

That said, my 4215bns get toasty as my 24V battery is near full and charging at 30A. PV V is ~ 84V at that time. Still cool enough to keep my hand on it.
 
I wish I would have know this before I mounted and wired my four chargers on the wall, albeit vertically.
I am only speaking of Victron stuff in this case …other brands may have different needs if any… all the gear with exposed heat sinks is mounted in small enclosed trailer that gets warm quickly after about 1:00 pm ….it certainly worked well for me.

the multiplus ( no exposed sinks) was hung on the wall like normal …under a strong load this summer I noticed 10-15% less efficiency as it got hotter.. …I used an old trick I learned using large power amps for big outdoor music shows many years ago… open the covers so the amps can breath better..

I pulled the front cover off of the multi+ and my goodness at the heat that escaped . even the internal fan ran much less . made a huge difference in temps
I like good ventilation..
J.
 
I wish I would have know this before I mounted and wired my four chargers on the wall, albeit vertically.
Still going to depend on the ambient temp and what you mounted it to. I have mine mounted to cement board which is somewhat of a heatsink and also in a basement which has much cooler temps and don't notice any heat issues.
 
Good info. I’m going to mount with an enhanced air gap. Easy.

What would serve as the best backing past the air gap? I’m thinking a large aluminum sheet to carry the heat away and allow it to dissipate away from the device.

It’s also one of the cheapest.
 
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Still going to depend on the ambient temp and what you mounted it to. I have mine mounted to cement board which is somewhat of a heatsink and also in a basement which has much cooler temps and don't notice any heat issues.
You are correct about ambient air temp ( that’s the biggie) and also about what it’s mounted to as its Acting as a heat sink to help negate raising the temp of the ambient air ,but a 3rd issue is the amount of ambient air available to help keep the gear cool , as in cubic ft of the entire area containing that air…big is good .. small is harder to deal with unless exchanged ..or cooled by some outside method , the small area heats up much quicker. And it runs upward quickly.

If ,as in your case and most peoples install , with a cool basement you have a large volume of air that is cooled by all the surfaces inside that area as air circulates naturally …the equipment being a relatively small heat source compared to your container of air may not ever present a problem…if one has cement block walls and it’s already coolish , that’s even better.. the whole room is a heat sink…haaa..
in my case with a 6 ft V nose black aluminum trailer install, I only have about 75 usable cubic ft of total air if door is closed …..
that 6x 4 x 4 internal measurements Before insulation…Ouch… it can get very hot ..it’s like having a black car….so I heavily insulated it when starting out to impede the sun from baking the inside quickly ….on all sides…2 inch’s thick..I installed 2 low draw high CFM exhaust fans high and low that exchange the air basically once per min to keep it at outside ambient temp… that helped alot …..
but the heat sinks being jammed against the walls limited circulation to carry away the heat
efficiently…when remounting everything on stand offs and another fan directed below the gear it allows things to cool down much better ( in this application) . It dropped all temps on everything and works great…the heat gets stirred around and exhausted out side and replaced by the cooler air intake…

SIDE NOTE : by last august I had installed a 5 k window unit that cycles off and on at 460 watts about 15 min per hour run time …that’s about 115 watts per hr I must provide…but only during the sunshine part of the day (or it’s not on ) but it keeps everything inside about 65 degrees and the equipment increases its efficiency much much much more than what i use to run it…

The side benefit for winter of all the insulation and inside circulation fans is that the heat generated in that small area keeps me from needing any outside heat source in winter for the batteries.
Inside the trailer will stay about ish 50 when it’s in the teens at night.( last week) .and 60 the next day when it’s 35F outside when system is at idle .

It can be below zero and if charging or discharging any decent power the gear heats it up , no problem… im happy not having to worry about heating the battery’s living on top of a cold mountain.

I hope somthing I’ve said here may help some other trailer build people… it may have to be tweaked a bit to suit your needs …

J.
 
On plywood, in free air, in the V nose of my well insulated trailer. However, on a hot summer day it can get pretty warm inside the trailer.
My trailer is of simalar design.. it can be done… it took a bit of thought and tweaking but it now works great summer or winter…see my comment to Mr rhino a few posts above this…
good luck .
J.
 
Other thing that can be done if worried about getting hot is getting larger controller then what you need instead of pushing it at or near its max. A 150/60 instead of 100/30 for instance which has lot bigger heat sink would only be running at half its rating at 30A. With the recent Victron price cuts it makes it more reasonable to consider that.
 
I’d like to use the Load output terminals to power a small 12V fan to cool my Victron SmartSolar 100/30 charge controller. But I want it to:

1) only run ideally when it’s above a certain temperature

Or

2) only run during daylight hours or even programmed for certain hours, ie, 10AM to 8PM

I think something like this should be possible, yes? @sunshine_eggo you’re one of our esteemed resident Victron experts.

I’ve never used the LOAD output on a charge controller before and am not quite sure how to program it to do what I want.
 
I’d want a good quality timer for this. Should run reliably off battery power.

Looking at the Victron “streetlight” function, it looks like I might be able to set the load port to power only during solar producing hours. Which would work. Not as good as being temperature based, but better than a static timer. That’s assuming I understand how the Streetlight feature works. If all else fails then yeah, a decent 12v timer would do the job.
 
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