want to wire a few outlets in the walls before sheetrock. not sure if i need a box. want to make it easy ?
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Solar Wizard
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No. You can run the wire and leave it in the wall cavity with some slack and then cut in a remodel box later.
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Why?
BobR
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Then a 2x4 stud is holding the box instead of only the drywall. Outlets must be in a box.
They make old work boxes that screw into studs also, but they're more expensive. Nailing a box to a stud is much cheaper.
I would never use an "old work" box on an outlet just because that can lead to undue stress on the drywall. Switches I have no issue with as those don't get pushed/pulled on. But given the option I'll always do the nail-on if the drywall is open because it is cheaper and stronger.
I would never use an "old work" box on an outlet just because that can lead to undue stress on the drywall. Switches I have no issue with as those don't get pushed/pulled on. But given the option I'll always do the nail-on if the drywall is open because it is cheaper and stronger.
LeoThomson
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Put the front of the box protruding, put the wires coiled up inside it, make sure that it is a solid fix. Mark the location on the floor and note the height just before you install the drywall. Then when you install the drywall give it a tap with a flat peace of wood to leave a mark of the outline of the box on the back of the drywall. Cut it out and you will have a perfect fit every time.
That's brilliant.
GravelRider
New Member
I would never put an old work box in new construction. I can't think of a single benefit to doing this. The old work boxes are more expensive and not as strong as nailed/screwed to a stud... Unless of course you buy the ones made for screwing to a stud, but they're even more expensive, and you have to find the stud, fish the wire into the box (even if you ran the wire), which ends up being more work than just doing it right in the first place.
I don't like using the drywall-only old work boxes for outlets, but I have used them for outlets that won't be plugged/unplugged frequently, like behind a wall-mounted TV.
I don't like using the drywall-only old work boxes for outlets, but I have used them for outlets that won't be plugged/unplugged frequently, like behind a wall-mounted TV.
Why would you do this?
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Solar Wizard
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You may need to modify the location once other stuff is installed.
It's easier to install the drywall and then cut the box opening into the face than it is to do it before hanging the rock.
I have never had an old work box pull out of drywall or wood or anything.
OP also asked if he even needed a box so I wasn't sure what to make of his skill level.
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Solar Wizard
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The cost is trivial on a few boxes. $3.50 VS 79 cents.
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I know they have to be in a box. I have never had a remodel box pull out of drywall.
It's easier for a novice to trace around an old work box and fit it after hanging the sheetrock.
The box is set to the perfect depth, exactly where you want it with no extra mid work to do because the hole is inevitably too big or off just a bit.
The op asked if a box was even needed. It's safe to assume drywall taping and measuring holes aren't in his wheelhouse either.
GravelRider
New Member
The OP is much better off learning to do it right the first time rather than learning workarounds because he is inexperienced.
Hedges
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I typically install a box and put a "mud ring" around it. Sheet rock installer has to cut hole to fit over mud ring.
If you're going to have something like a slab backplash over it, there are deeper rings.
I had installed outlets as well, but trouble is they have ears sticking out, so sheetrock guy cuts to fit around those as well, and cutout is too large, needs larger switch/outlet plate to cover it. The ears are intended to bear on sheetrock, keep outlet from flexing back when plugging in.
At doorways, make sure framing or standoffs allow door trim and switchplate to be installed without overlapping (I've got a couple where I used miter box to cut plate on one edge so it fit.)
I suppose you could mark floor or something where the coiled up wire is and do old-work install. I typically cut a hole in sheetrock after finding stud with acoustic sensor. Drill through sole plate into basement, stuff wire through. Screws through side of box into stud. You can get a 4' long drill bit to drill sole plate from a light switch height hole. Drill has hole through it to attach wire to, use it to fish wire up so you can reach.
More of a pain I think will be replacing wire for an existing box. How am I supposed to accomplish that? (e.g. replace knob & tube with Romex or BX.)
If you're going to have something like a slab backplash over it, there are deeper rings.
I had installed outlets as well, but trouble is they have ears sticking out, so sheetrock guy cuts to fit around those as well, and cutout is too large, needs larger switch/outlet plate to cover it. The ears are intended to bear on sheetrock, keep outlet from flexing back when plugging in.
At doorways, make sure framing or standoffs allow door trim and switchplate to be installed without overlapping (I've got a couple where I used miter box to cut plate on one edge so it fit.)
I suppose you could mark floor or something where the coiled up wire is and do old-work install. I typically cut a hole in sheetrock after finding stud with acoustic sensor. Drill through sole plate into basement, stuff wire through. Screws through side of box into stud. You can get a 4' long drill bit to drill sole plate from a light switch height hole. Drill has hole through it to attach wire to, use it to fish wire up so you can reach.
More of a pain I think will be replacing wire for an existing box. How am I supposed to accomplish that? (e.g. replace knob & tube with Romex or BX.)
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Solar Wizard
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Remodel boxes are not the wrong way. That's being silly.
They get used all the time in New construction for various reasons and are a tried and true method of mounting outlets and switches and fans.
Very handy to be able to do final config after customer and builder have settled on the positioning of things.
They are not a "hack".
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Mike 134
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Wow using a remodel box to mount a ceiling fan.
The very definition of a hack!!!!!
Hedges
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Drill a new hole in the metal box and drill through sole plate and pull wire? Or cut sheetrock, remove old box fish wire and install larger box?
What I don't get is how to get past the box without gutting something.
I used a blue remodel box with screws that turn wings to hang a light fixture. Wings broke and it dropped, suspended by wires.
Shopping for replacement I read, "holds zero pounds". Grey one says "holds 6 pounds, not for fans." That has done better so far.
I saw a remodel box, metal, with jack screws to grip joists. That one is intended for fans.
New work: https://www.lowes.com/pd/RACO-1-Gan...rd-Ceiling-Fan-Ceiling-Electrical-Box/1099543
Old work: https://www.acehardware.com/departm...ical/boxes-fittings-and-conduit/boxes/3408283
Sun in Lithium
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I've professionally installed sheet rock/ drywall for over 10 years. If the "ears"
Are an issue for the installer than they don't know what they are doing!
